1940s Costumes | Fashion on the 1940s Home Front

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Putting Together a 1940s Costume

Are you looking to put together a wartime 1940s costume for Halloween, a theatre production, a historical reenactment, or just for fun? Would you like to put together your own outfit, without resorting to a pre-made costume?

If you are, it helps to know a few things about fashion in the early 1940s. The social pressures of rationing, work, and family had an impact on what women wore. Certain items of clothing were simply unavailable to women on the American Home Front in WWII. Certain other items that had once been rare became commonplace. Moreover, the war had an impact not only on the actual outfits that women wore, but on the way fashion houses designed clothing.

Putting together an outfit from the 1940s is easy, once you know a few simple things. The article that follows provides a visual reference from the 1940s. You'll learn about the basic trends in 1940s war time fashion - the colors that were popular, the hats people wore, the styles that were influential, and the shoes and make up you will need to complete the look. In fact, with so many contemporary styles having retro roots, you may already have some of what you need to create a perfect 1940s outfit. Read on to learn more!

Farm, Office, or Factory, Women Work for Victory

And put on practical clothing to do it.

WWII, Womens Victory Homefront
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As more and more women joined the war effort, the need for practical clothing led many of them to wear trousers and overalls. Office workers still wore skirts, but these were narrower and shorter than they had been, coming down to below the knee. Fabric was rationed, so clothing was styled and constructed to avoid using excess material. Shoes were chosen for practicality. A woman might need to spend all day on her feet at an assembly line. Flats, wedges, clogs, oxfords became commonplace for their durability and practicality..

Trousers

Straight leg, high waist.

Jane Frazee and Helen Parrish Wearing Trousers, 1941
Jane Frazee and Helen Parrish Wearing Trousers, 1941
Giclee Print

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Trousers were a more practical alternative to skirts for women who worked on the farm or in the factory. The leg fell straight to the ankle or might be cut a little wide. The waist tended to be high -- much higher than todays low-rise jeans! However, in certain dress slacks, the higher waist is coming back into style. You may be able to find a pair of modern trousers that fits the 1940's look.

If you have trousers like this in your wardrobe already, pair them with a short sleeve blouse, a pair of clogs, and a kerchief or turban. Just like that, you have your 1940s costume!

Overalls

From Farm to Factory

Sperry Gyroscope Woman Worker wearing Overallswith Shirt, Hat and Low Heeled Sturdy Shoes

Sperry Gyroscope Woman Worker wearing Overalls with Shirt, Hat and Low Heeled Sturdy Shoes
Photographic Print

Hansen, Marie

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To do their bit for the war effort, women took over work that had previously been left to men. They did heavier work on the farm, they joined assembly lines, they worked as mechanics. Overalls were ideal clothing for this. They were sturdy, comfortable, and had plenty of pockets to stow their work tools. If you can find a pair with a nice straight leg, you're in business!

Short Sleeve Blouse

As worn by Miss Katharine Hepburn

Katharine Hepburn, 1940s

Katharine Hepburn, 1940s
Photographic Print

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OK, I'm going to take a minute here to gush about Kate Hepburn. Wasn't she awesome? Didn't she always look so elegant and so comfortable in her practical blouse-with-trousers outfits? And wasn't it great the way she played female characters who demanded respect, and got it? *sigh*

OK, I'm done now. Gushing aside, Katharine Hepburn is a wonderful visual resource for anyone putting together a 1940s look. With her no-nonsense attitude and classic style, she epitomizes the pragmatic elegance of wartime fashion.

A simple short sleeve blouse, like the one in this photo, can be paired with trousers, overalls, or a skirt to complete your 1940s look. Short sleeve blouses were very popular, as they could keep a woman cool on a hot factory floor, and then be worn with a cardigan in the evening for a dressier look. As in all 1940s fashion, women's blouses emphasized the shoulders, and were often padded to make them look more square.

Rosie the Riveter Costume

If you're hoping to dress as a 1940s factory worker this Halloween, read my lens about Rosie the Riveter Costumes. You'll learn how to dress like Rosie, do your make up like Rosie, and how to put your hair up in that kerchief she wears.
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1940s House Dress

A woman's work is never done, whatever the era.

Mopping Linoleum 1940s

Mopping Linoleum 1940s
Photographic Print

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Like modern their modern sisters, women who joined the war effort still had housekeeping chores at home. This woman is wearing a simple house dress with short sleeves and an A-line skirt. Her hair is held back in a snood.

1940s Suit Styles: The Menswear Look

Menswear was influential because a lot of women's suits were ... well, menswear.

Lady in Grey Skirt and Blouse with Pattern

Garcia, Cuca

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This suit typifies the "hard chic" look of the 1940s. The jacket shoulders are exaggerated and squared of with padding. The skirt is a simple A-line. Depending on the fabric, this suit could go from daytime to evening wear with style.

Another thing about this suit is that it wastes very little fabric. The skirt comes to just below the knee. There are no ruffles, pleats, or ornaments. The sleeves are straight and tailored, instead of puffed or flowing.

This look was convenient, because it allowed a lot of women to remake their husbands suits into clothing for themselves. The men were off fighting, so they didn't need business attire anyway. Additionally, many fabrics were rationed, and those that weren't were expensive. Making an old suit into a new one was a way saving money, conserving supplies, and supporting the war effort.

Nylons on the 1940s Home Front?

Nope!

Nylon by DuPont, Nylons Stockings Hosiery, USA, 1940
Nylon by DuPont, Nylons Stockings Hosiery, USA, 1940
Giclee Print

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DuPont introduced the nylon stocking to American consumers in 1940. Women fell in love with them instantly. But by 1942, most available nylon was going to make parachutes for the war effort. Nylon stockings were strictly rationed, and even then they were hard to come by - to get her hands on a pair, a woman usually had to resort to the black market. Nylons remained in short supply through 1947.

Rations on clothing and materials did not apply to "historical costumes for theatrical productions", which enabled Hollywood to get around the laws. Most women, however, had to simplify and make do. Many resorted to bare legs and tan-colored "leg make-up", and had a friend draw the back seam on their legs with eyeliner. Many more wore cotton stockings, or simply decided to wear pants with ankle socks instead.

1940s Shoes: Clogs, Wedges, Oxfords, and Espadrilles

Practical shoes that avoid rationing guidelines.

Catalog for French Shoes

Catalog for French Shoes
Art Print

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Women who were on their feet all day needed a pair of good, sturdy shoes. Leather and rubber were rationed in the United States, which meant that shoes were rationed too. If your job was deemed "essential to the war effort", for instance, if you were a Woman Ordinance Worker, the restrictions might be eased somewhat. You could get yourself a good pair of oxfords or loafers to work in.

Joyce Shoes
Joyce Shoes
Masterprint

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The "wedge" style became popular in the 1940s, because the wedge was often made of stacked pieces of wood, which was not subject to rationing. The upper part of the shoe could be made with non-rationed fabrics. The wedge also gave enough support that a woman could be on her feet all day, or walk long distances, while wearing them.

Carefree Shoes

Carefree Shoes
Giclee Print

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Espadrilles were another way to circumvent the limitations of rationing. With fabric uppers and soles made of jute, the materials used in their construction were unrestricted in the United States. The jute also made for a sturdy platform for the shoe, making it a practical choice for day wear.

1940s Military Women's Costumes

While most women served on the Home Front in WWII, some women served in the military. To learn more about these women, and the uniforms they wore, check out my lens about them.
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1940's Turbans

For Work and Play

WWII Posters

WWII Posters
Giclee Print

Johnson, Everett
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The turban or kerchief was a practical choice for women in the Home Front factories. They kept hair clean, and out of the way of the factory machinery.

Eleanor Parker Wearing a Turban and Scarf Treatment Made of Chiffon, Designed by Leah Barnes, 1943
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The turban could go high-fashion too, as in this turban and scarf from 1943.

Snoods

What's a snood?

Model Wearing Tambourine Pillbox and Silk Jersey Snood Accented by Her Ornate Necklace

Eisenstaedt,...
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A snood is a net or fabric sack that keeps hair back and off the face. Snoods were already fashionable before women joined the war effort in large numbers.

Hand-Knotted Net for a Snood
Hand-Knotted Net for a Snood
Photographic Print

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In simpler form, the snood was a very practical option that could be dressed up or down.

1940s Hats:

Tilt Hats and "Toy" Hats

Little Black Hats by Schiaparelli to be Worn Perched on the Front of the Head
Little Black Hats by Schiaparelli to be Worn Perched on the Front of the Head
Giclee Print

, Baldrich
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Dress hats of the 1940's were often tiny and meant to be worn either at an angle, or perched toward the front of the head. Their small size earned them the nick name "toy hats". Women on the home front might have worn hats in this style to church or to a special evening out.

Gene Tierney, 1940s

Gene Tierney, 1940s
Photographic Print

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This photo shows actress Gene Tierney in a luxurious fur tilt hat. Most women would not have been able to afford to dress like this!

1940s Hair Styles

Check out my "Pin Up Costumes" lens!

If you want a sexy 1940's costume, check out my lens about pin-up girls. It also includes some great tutorials on different 1940s women's hair styles.
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Color Pallette and Patterns

Loud and proud!

Balanced Pacific Sheets, Fabrics, Records, Sheets, Clothing, Interiors, USA, 1940

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This illustration shows some of the colors and patterns that were popular during the early 1940s.

Patterned Frock 1940s

Patterned Frock 1940s
Photographic Print

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Textile patterns from the 1940's were ... shall we say ... less than subtle. Imagine this print in some of the colors you'll see in the following images, and you'll know what I mean.

Actress Lana Turner

Green, Pink, and Purple all at once.

Ida Lupino

Ida Lupino, c.1940s

Ida Lupino, c.1940s
Photographic Print

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Actress Ida Lupino in a rather loud blouse from the 1940s.

Rita Hayworth in Orange and Turquoise

Not at once, thank the gods.

Rita Hayworth, c.1940s

Rita Hayworth, c.1940s
Photographic Print

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Rita Hayworth in a classic 1940's dress. Note the broad, square shoulders, emphasized with shoulder pads. Gotta love that color!

Rita Hayworth, c.1940s

Rita Hayworth, c.1940s
Photographic Print

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Rita Hayworth again, in a much more restrained teal color.

Maria Montez in Pink and Teal

and black and white, but really, the pink and teal kind of dwown them out.

Maria Montez, c.1940s

Maria Montez, c.1940s
Photographic Print

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You can put together your 1940s look with color combinations you would never wear in contemporary styles. Got a pair of bright pink gloves left over from last year's bubble gum costume? Put them to work for your 1940s costume.

Angela Lansbury in Wasabi Green

Angela Lansbury, 1940s

Angela Lansbury, 1940s
Photographic Print

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Remember that color called "wasabi"? It came in around 2003, and was the worst thing to EVER happen to the color green in the complete history of ever? I worked in outdoor clothing retail during that time. We had jackets in this color. We referred to the color as "stomach acid green".

Well, if you have an old blouse or jacket in that color, you may be able to put it to work for your 1940s look.

Lucille Ball in a Black and Cream Suit

and looking restrained compared to everyone else.

>Lucille Ball, 1940s

Lucille Ball, 1940s
Photographic Print

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Lucy here knows that you don't have to be garish in order to look like you're from the 1940s. Her suit, in black and cream (or ecru or light beige or whatever you want to call it) shows the menswear influence in the squared off shoulders. Her hat shows that the tilt hat wasn't always shown tilted forward; sometimes it was tilted back, and framed the face.

1940s Make Up

Check out my "Starlets" lens!

For their make up, women of the 1940s took inspiration from Hollywood stars like Lana Turner, Gene Tierney, and Ingrid Bergman. My lens about Hollywood starlet costumes includes make-up tutorials to get your look just right.
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Stop and take my poll!

You kow ... for the war!

Take this poll to share your favorite 1940s color. Then see how others voted.

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Did I help you with your Halloween costume?

Or did I just teach you what a "snood" is?

  • Tipi Mar 30, 2011 @ 9:36 am | delete
    Excellent lens and beautiful display of some very lovely posters.
  • MeliciouslyYours Mar 7, 2011 @ 7:26 pm | delete
    Love your lens! I really enjoyed the glam photos of 40's. I have a friend in Nashville who specializes in pin up portraits and this reminds me of images out of some of her photo books. Keep up the great lens!
  • sandralynnsparks Feb 14, 2011 @ 1:48 pm | delete
    Though it's shown for Halloween costumes, I know so many theater plays that this lens would fit - and I love this era of clothes! You might want to switch to the Celebrations and Holidays/Halloween/adult costumes section - or not! ;) Love it... Big kiss...
  • outsource123 Jan 28, 2011 @ 5:01 am | delete
    cool Article.
  • kimmanleyort Oct 14, 2010 @ 11:41 am | delete
    This is an excellent lens on 40's fashion. By looking at all the different stars, you see a definite style for this era. Great research!
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