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Is Super High Gas Mileage Myth or Reality?
Learn the facts about what it truly is that is burning inside your engine and what others have done to make SUPER HIGH GAS MILEAGE a REALITY!
Super High-Mileage Carburetion
Why it Works and What's Stopping it Now
THE PROPAGANDAThere has been much said about the realities of the 200 mpg carburetor. Some claim it is absolutely true, while others say it is mere fiction. Most people have preconceived ideas about everything in life including how far a tankful of gasoline will get you in your car. Unfortunately such concepts are usually programmed into us by incredibly powerful people who use an extensive system of "vertical" as well as "horizontal" propaganda to get us to accept a manufactured set of lies that will keep all of us within the "farmer's pen" so that we never wake up to the fact that we are being absolutely manipulated so that we will willingly although ignorantly continue to allow ourselves to be milked for the sake of the power and vast fortunes of the individuals that run this world.
However, distortions, lies and deceptions being what they are are never able to hold up indefinitely if we are willing to scrutinize them carefully and deeply enough. The subject of fuel economy is an extremely crucial component of this facade because it not only obviously provides vast fortunes for the few but keeps us all within our own confines. But it is the propaganda that guides us all so that most of us will unwitting keep ourselves stuck there of our own accord!
If you look at the simple physics of what happens during fuel combustion within an internal combustion engine it becomes readily obvious why we are all only getting around 15 miles per gallon in our cars. Such an incredible deception - and most are unwilling to question all of this (really because it calls into question the basis of a person's very own entire belief system).
However, I really just wanted to explain in this article in simplified terms how it is that fuel actually combusts or mixes with the oxygen in the engine which will point to the way or ways that we can possibly help this process to work the way it should and thus be able to possibly attain that incredible 200 miles per gallon gas mileage in our own car!
WHAT'S REALLY BURNING
First of all combustion occurs when an oxygen molecule chemically combines with another type of molecule that would be the fuel as in this case gasoline. What enables this to take place is the addition of an energy source such as the heat from the spark of a spark plug. In the process more energy is released as the process continues to feed on the heat initially released to energize the next adjacent batch of molecules to have the same kind of chemical reaction. In this process, molecules are split so that there end up more molecules than you started with (even though they are individually smaller yet they overall have the exact same number of atoms as at the start). When this all happens it causes a super rapid increase in the overall volume of space used by this gaseous mixture. This is what causes the great sudden increase in pressure within the engine cylinder during the combustion cycle thus forcing the piston down and thus making the crankshaft turn and the engine run.
However, in all of this each of the oxygen molecules have to come into contact with each of the fuel (gasoline) molecules for this to happen. (this molecule to molecule contact probably is all related to the effect of the shockwave generated by the discharge of the sparkplug.) This all works extremely efficiently whenever all of the fuel is available in a truly gaseous form (which means fumes or a "dry" state). This is simply because access to each individual fuel molecule is uninhibited and this easy marriage takes place. On the other hand, if the fuel is available only as drops of fuel (even if microscopic drops) then only the molecules on the outer surfaces of the drops are available for this reaction to take place. And even those don't work that well because they have to be ripped out of the fuel droplet. And when you consider that a microscopic droplet in itself can have millions of gasoline molecules in it, with only those on the outer surface available for combustion it is easy to see why the usual carburetion or fuel injection is so incredibly inefficient! In fact, these molecules combust so poorly that they are the cause of so much of the pollution coming out of the tail pipe. It is the tiny amount of actual gasoline fumes that do in fact end up in the cylinder in the process that causes any combustion to take place that makes the engine run in the first place. This is the way that fuel systems work in our car engines today (if you can actually call that working).
So the obvious answer here is simply to only use fumes to run your car. That is the very essence of "vapor" type carburetor systems. And that is why they can so easily achieve such awesomely high gas mileages.
In fact, if you were ever to talk with welders who ever weld on fuel or solvent tanks of one type or another ask them if they would prefer to weld on an empty (used) tank or a full one. They will tell you that an empty tank is astronomically more dangerous than a full one because the fumes are still so prevalent in the tank as they gradually release from the metal walls that they are so very explosive. Remember it is the fumes that ignite not the liquid fuel. Welders will always fill such a tank with water before welding as a simple and cheap way to force fumes out of the tank and make it safe for welding.
In fact, did you know that if you are not careful you could even get simple wheat flour to explode in a big dangerous fireball if you puffed enough of a cloud of it into an enclosed room and set a spark to it.
But the real question now is do the vapor type carburetors still work as advertised or has something changed since they were first invented to stop or diminish that? Well, I'm glad you asked that, because as a matter of fact, they have. First, let me tell you, that when the best of the vapor carburetors first hit the public airwaves back in the late 1930's in Canada that it sent such a shockwave through the Canadian stock market that oil stocks plunged as suddenly everybody, in a panic, wanted to sell off their now nearly worthless oil stocks. Obviously, the oil people couldn't just sit back and do nothing. And since then much has happened to change our gasoline that greatly reduces how well it evaporates into fumes.
WHAT CHANGED?
One of the early things done to our gasoline was to add lead to it. Yes I mean add. Lead doesn't naturally come with the gas. It costs money for the oil companies to add it to gas. The "party line" (i.e. "propaganda line") is that it is needed to help keep from burning the valves in our engines during combustion and to some extent this may be true. But of course, to anyone who has actually studied propaganda techniques you will immediately recognize that all of the most successful propaganda is hidden within actual facts cleverly manipulated so as to hide the true intent. (Kind of like "reality" TV where we are shown actual video clips of conversations between participants in these competitions that are shown in a way to lead us to believe people are thinking one particular way or another. However what we are not told is that these clips are shown out of order from when they were filmed and rearranged in order to trick us into believing something particular about some of the people that in reality is not true at all!) By adding the lead to the gasoline it effectively raised the temperature at which it would evaporate into fumes. Many, if not most, evaporator carburetors relied heavily on heat added to the fuel to raise its temperature to the range of evaporation to make them work. And by adding certain of any of a select few key ingredients to gasoline you can significantly alter its evaporation characteristics. You might think initially that you would have to add a lot of lead or whatever to make that happen but in reality it only takes very little but the quantities have to be very exact. It probably has something to do with matching some kind of harmonic of the gasoline's evaporation frequency energy. In other words if you can do something that will in some way interfere with that specific energy range that specifically effects the gasoline and how it evaporates it will disrupt the process. Kind of like someone pulling on a violin string while you are trying to play it. It just makes it all chaotic and screws it all up.
In fact, to show how a small amount of one substance can have quite a strong effect on a larger amount of another substance I highly recommend reading an article from Louis LaPointe called "Acetone in Fuels". ( formerly at http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/additive.htm [but he may have been forced off the web for saving people too much money]) In that article on his exhaustive and cumulative research over a period of many decades he shows how effective a few ounces of acetone is in a whole tankful of gasoline in improving gas mileage by some pretty decent percentages. Acetone works by actually reducing the surface tension or the tendency of the fuel to stick to itself which makes it evaporate much more easily. The trick is to get the ratio of acetone to gasoline quite exact (more is not better) and to get pure acetone such as is available in beauty supply stores or even drugstores (not the gallon size at hardware stores. Some claim those aren't pure enough to work well.)
But, by now lead has been re-removed from our fuels (now they charge more again to not add it in the first place. Hmmm, sounds kind of like the mafia charging us for "protection" from the "dangerous" neighborhood thugs, i.e. themselves) But since then they also add detergents and other chemicals (maybe that's where the fuel varnish really comes from??). And the study of acetone has already proven that just a little bit of chemical can make gasoline evaporate easily. This leads us to the easy and obvious conclusion that just a little of the right chemical can easily heavily retard evaporation, just like lead did.
There is one more procedure I know of that effects fuel evaporation. That is a process called "catalytic cracking". Catalytic cracking started to be used by oil refineries in the late 1930's. This helped defeat any carburetors that used a vaporization principle. The use of catalytic cracking increased the amount of gasoline that could be produced from a barrel of crude. But in the process it also allowed "heavy ends" to make up a portion of the gasoline. "Heavy ends" are long chain hydrocarbons that have a high vaporization temperature. In fact, the spontaneous ignition temperature of the "light ends" is lower than this vaporization temperature so if you heat the gasoline high enough to vaporize the "heavy ends" you explode the "light ends".
I have read stories written by former allied tank drivers from WW ll whose tanks at some point were fitted with some special carburetion systems that were sealed within black steel boxes. These systems were designed by Charles Pogue. They allowed the allied tanks to "leapfrog" the driving range of Rommel's tanks (the "desert fox") thus allowing them to gobble up all of the remaining fuel depots ahead of the Germans and then to simply pick off the German tanks with the artillery when they ran out of fuel. Whenever one of the "Pogue tanks" became disabled, there was a special crew in charge of removing the carburetion system so the Germans couldn't get one and figure it out.
CAN WE BE SAVED IN THIS, THE ELEVENTH HOUR??
But now the final question is simply this: Is there anything that can be done or attempted to re-enable gasoline in one of these vapor type carburetion systems to attain the necessary evaporation range to get super gas mileage in our very own cars??
Happily, the answer is yes. There are various things that have been already developed and proven that are even now on the market that will help improve your gas mileage. There are also some other conceptual things that can be tried. If some of these are combined with "vapor type" carburetors you just might be able to overcome the tricks that have been used to block the effectiveness a vapor type carburetor has on our common gasoline. Remember, the best proven carburetor so far has, for about 70 years, has been and still is the Pogue carburetor.
Here are some ideas: It seems quite likely that if someone takes the plans of the Pogue carburetor patent and builds or has built the carburetor just as the plans show, and then adds pure acetone to the gasoline exactly as described in the above referenced article, "Acetone in Fuels", then that person may be able to overcome at least some if not most of the "anti-evaporation" characteristics of today's gasoline. However, I believe that it will further assist you if you go to www.brightgreen.us and buy their "Max Warmer", and use this fuel heating device in lieu of the method shown on the Pogue patents, you will have a better means of preheating the gasoline. Further, if you buy the "Fog Squirter-Inducer II", you will also have a better means of adding properly proportioned acetone to your fuel. However, some modifications may be needed to provide the proper pressure to run this device. But maybe not. Check with them first.
Another idea could be experimented with, that is to try using a sonic type vaporizer disk such as found in sonic room-humidifiers or even in aeroponic fog transducing systems (for use with plant roots growing in nutrient rich air fog). These work with water by using sound waves to excite the molecules enough that they simply "jump" out of the liquid. There's a good chance they will work with gasoline too. This may be a quite simple and effective way to start the initial vaporization at the inlet part of the Pogue carburetor.
Since gasoline has additives with a slightly different weight than the gasoline itself, you may get some benefit if you simply let the gasoline sit long enough to settle out these additives. This happens automatically when you keep gasoline in a gas can for weeks or months. If you'll notice, sitting on the bottom of the can is a thin layer of "sludge". Some of it is often water but the rest of it is "varnish'' as well as other additives and otherwise just impurities. That's why, if you have a car with a carburetor in it and you let it sit for a long period of time, you have to clean out the carburetor before trying to use it because the "varnish" in the gasoline will settle out and coat and plug up the carburetor ports and everything else. Some of that stuff also adversely affects the fuel's evaporation rate. So if you do make a Pogue carburetor, since it won't use much gasoline, why not just buy enough extra to let it sit for a while and let that stuff settle out. (of course never pour out that bit of settled out garbage into your gas tank! Just dispose of it properly.) Or you could use some type of centrifugal spinning device (centrifuge) to get it all to settle out in just a matter of minutes or so.
These are all just some ideas to show everybody that our hands are not quite as tied as we are all led to believe. And that there are real viable things we can do to get off this dying grid system.
But whatever you do, please always have a qualified person with you to help you in any and all of this experimental stuff. Remember, the internal combustion engine with all of the volatile gasoline is extremely dangerous. And improperly designed and built fuel systems can easily catch fire and explode and seriously damage you and your whole life and of course can kill you and your loved ones. (Obviously, with the foregoing in mind I cannot be held liable if anyone tinkers with any of this stuff and gets hurt. Nor is any warranty implied here). But if you do it right it can set you free!
By the way, I haven't even yet mentioned that this carburetor burns fuel so efficiently that its exhaust is about as clean as a gas burning stove.
If the powers that be really wanted to stop "global warming" and the current awful exhaust emissions wouldn't they allow or require rather the super clean emissions that have been readily available for decades rather than to suppress them??
In fact, to show how a small amount of one substance can have quite a strong effect on a larger amount of another substance I highly recommend reading an article from Louis LaPointe called "Acetone in Fuels". ( formerly at http://www.lubedev.com/smartgas/additive.htm [but he may have been forced off the web for saving people too much money]) In that article on his exhaustive and cumulative research over a period of many decades he shows how effective a few ounces of acetone is in a whole tankful of gasoline in improving gas mileage by some pretty decent percentages. Acetone works by actually reducing the surface tension or the tendency of the fuel to stick to itself which makes it evaporate much more easily. The trick is to get the ratio of acetone to gasoline quite exact (more is not better) and to get pure acetone such as is available in beauty supply stores or even drugstores (not the gallon size at hardware stores. Some claim those aren't pure enough to work well.)
But, by now lead has been re-removed from our fuels (now they charge more again to not add it in the first place. Hmmm, sounds kind of like the mafia charging us for "protection" from the "dangerous" neighborhood thugs, i.e. themselves) But since then they also add detergents and other chemicals (maybe that's where the fuel varnish really comes from??). And the study of acetone has already proven that just a little bit of chemical can make gasoline evaporate easily. This leads us to the easy and obvious conclusion that just a little of the right chemical can easily heavily retard evaporation, just like lead did.
There is one more procedure I know of that effects fuel evaporation. That is a process called "catalytic cracking". Catalytic cracking started to be used by oil refineries in the late 1930's. This helped defeat any carburetors that used a vaporization principle. The use of catalytic cracking increased the amount of gasoline that could be produced from a barrel of crude. But in the process it also allowed "heavy ends" to make up a portion of the gasoline. "Heavy ends" are long chain hydrocarbons that have a high vaporization temperature. In fact, the spontaneous ignition temperature of the "light ends" is lower than this vaporization temperature so if you heat the gasoline high enough to vaporize the "heavy ends" you explode the "light ends".
I have read stories written by former allied tank drivers from WW ll whose tanks at some point were fitted with some special carburetion systems that were sealed within black steel boxes. These systems were designed by Charles Pogue. They allowed the allied tanks to "leapfrog" the driving range of Rommel's tanks (the "desert fox") thus allowing them to gobble up all of the remaining fuel depots ahead of the Germans and then to simply pick off the German tanks with the artillery when they ran out of fuel. Whenever one of the "Pogue tanks" became disabled, there was a special crew in charge of removing the carburetion system so the Germans couldn't get one and figure it out.
CAN WE BE SAVED IN THIS, THE ELEVENTH HOUR??
But now the final question is simply this: Is there anything that can be done or attempted to re-enable gasoline in one of these vapor type carburetion systems to attain the necessary evaporation range to get super gas mileage in our very own cars??
Happily, the answer is yes. There are various things that have been already developed and proven that are even now on the market that will help improve your gas mileage. There are also some other conceptual things that can be tried. If some of these are combined with "vapor type" carburetors you just might be able to overcome the tricks that have been used to block the effectiveness a vapor type carburetor has on our common gasoline. Remember, the best proven carburetor so far has, for about 70 years, has been and still is the Pogue carburetor.
Here are some ideas: It seems quite likely that if someone takes the plans of the Pogue carburetor patent and builds or has built the carburetor just as the plans show, and then adds pure acetone to the gasoline exactly as described in the above referenced article, "Acetone in Fuels", then that person may be able to overcome at least some if not most of the "anti-evaporation" characteristics of today's gasoline. However, I believe that it will further assist you if you go to www.brightgreen.us and buy their "Max Warmer", and use this fuel heating device in lieu of the method shown on the Pogue patents, you will have a better means of preheating the gasoline. Further, if you buy the "Fog Squirter-Inducer II", you will also have a better means of adding properly proportioned acetone to your fuel. However, some modifications may be needed to provide the proper pressure to run this device. But maybe not. Check with them first.
Another idea could be experimented with, that is to try using a sonic type vaporizer disk such as found in sonic room-humidifiers or even in aeroponic fog transducing systems (for use with plant roots growing in nutrient rich air fog). These work with water by using sound waves to excite the molecules enough that they simply "jump" out of the liquid. There's a good chance they will work with gasoline too. This may be a quite simple and effective way to start the initial vaporization at the inlet part of the Pogue carburetor.
Since gasoline has additives with a slightly different weight than the gasoline itself, you may get some benefit if you simply let the gasoline sit long enough to settle out these additives. This happens automatically when you keep gasoline in a gas can for weeks or months. If you'll notice, sitting on the bottom of the can is a thin layer of "sludge". Some of it is often water but the rest of it is "varnish'' as well as other additives and otherwise just impurities. That's why, if you have a car with a carburetor in it and you let it sit for a long period of time, you have to clean out the carburetor before trying to use it because the "varnish" in the gasoline will settle out and coat and plug up the carburetor ports and everything else. Some of that stuff also adversely affects the fuel's evaporation rate. So if you do make a Pogue carburetor, since it won't use much gasoline, why not just buy enough extra to let it sit for a while and let that stuff settle out. (of course never pour out that bit of settled out garbage into your gas tank! Just dispose of it properly.) Or you could use some type of centrifugal spinning device (centrifuge) to get it all to settle out in just a matter of minutes or so.
These are all just some ideas to show everybody that our hands are not quite as tied as we are all led to believe. And that there are real viable things we can do to get off this dying grid system.
But whatever you do, please always have a qualified person with you to help you in any and all of this experimental stuff. Remember, the internal combustion engine with all of the volatile gasoline is extremely dangerous. And improperly designed and built fuel systems can easily catch fire and explode and seriously damage you and your whole life and of course can kill you and your loved ones. (Obviously, with the foregoing in mind I cannot be held liable if anyone tinkers with any of this stuff and gets hurt. Nor is any warranty implied here). But if you do it right it can set you free!
By the way, I haven't even yet mentioned that this carburetor burns fuel so efficiently that its exhaust is about as clean as a gas burning stove.
If the powers that be really wanted to stop "global warming" and the current awful exhaust emissions wouldn't they allow or require rather the super clean emissions that have been readily available for decades rather than to suppress them??
Pogue expired "200 mpg" patents
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http://reddit.com/submit?url=http://www.squidoo.com/200MPG&title=Super-High Gas-Mileage physics Simplified
2008-04-18
monthly
0.
http://www.squidoo.com/xml/syndicate_lens/200MPG
2008-04-18
monthly
0.
http://www.squidoo.com/utility/email_page?200MPG
2008-04-18
monthly
0.
http://www.squidoo.com/200MPG?print=1
2008-04-18
monthly
0.
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/tos
2008-04-18
monthly
0.7
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/faq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.7
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/feedback
2008-04-18
monthly
0.7
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/spam
2008-04-18
monthly
0.7
http://www.squidoo.com/monkeybrain/hq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.0
http://www.squidoo.com/squidflix/hq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.5
http://www.squidoo.com/squidlit/hq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.1
http://www.squidoo.com/squidwho/hq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.5
http://www.squidoo.com/squidvids/hq
2008-04-18
monthly
0.4
http://www.squidoo.com/squidbids/hq
2008-04-18
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0.5
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/EveryoneIsAnExpert.pdf
2008-04-18
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0.7
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/freetrafficebook.pdf
2008-04-18
monthly
0.5
http://www.squidoo.com/pages/spam/200MPG
2008-04-18
monthly
0.
http://www.squidoo.com/member/password_reset
2008-04-18
monthly
0.7
