Fishing and game in Lake Kariba
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Unwind and recharge batteries with houseboats fishing and game
It's just that I miss my old country Zimbabwe and the sights. It was such a grand place to go and unwind for a few days, either by staying in a hotel or even better taking a houseboat where you could do your own thing.
Driving up by car once you turn left onto the Kariba road you are now back, more or less, in the old Africa.
Be careful, because at any moment you are more than likely going to come across a herd of elephant. Remember that they are wild animals and although they are now more or less used to traffic, don't do anything stupid, take your time and marvel at these magnificent beasts, never forgetting to keep the car in reverse,in case one of the old bulls decide to get "ornery". Although it is more often the case that it is the matriarch.
Please read on.
Contents at a Glance
My Recollections
A monument to ingenuity

At the time it was built it was the biggest man made lake in the world and was a real test of man to build it in such an isolated and forbidding terrain and the taming of the ferocious Zambezi river.
Notwithstanding the fact that within the context of the times it was largely uninhabitable, due to the Tsetse fly carried by Buffalo mainly and causing Trypanosomiasis ( Sleeping Sickness )which was deadly to man, but the Government of the time had more or less got on top of this with spraying programs.
Initially it was to provide hydro electric power for what was then known as Southern and Northern Rhodesia,now known as Zimbabwe and Zambia.Furthermore it was an extremely difficult decision to make at the time regarding humane causes.The Batonka people(unusual in that they are the only tribe in the world that I know of who only have two toes and webbed feet) would have to be re-located as the rising waters would engulf them.
Logically they resented this and could not understand that it was in the countries best interests. It's so sad and the rights and wrongs of this can be debated endlessly.
Furthermore an operation had to be put into practice by the game rangers to save the animals being caught up in the rising waters. A massive undertaking code-named "Operation Noah".
Here it is.
Operation Noah
They knew that the rising waters would trap and kill much wildlife and this is the film footage of their valiant attempts to do this. It is no mean feat in the wild especially with game as large as Elephants.
A tribute to caring people and a great country.
The Tourist Attraction
Growing slowly
As the years went by Kariba gradually started to become more and more of a holiday resort, primarily driven by people who were interested in game and fishing.Then of course there were the big game hunters lured by the thrill of the game.
Consequently, entrepreneurs started to build hotels and game lodges and these grew in number as Kariba became increasingly more popular. Sadly this beautiful little central african country has had a checkered political history.
During the liberation war years and the imposition of International sanctions, it became increasingly more difficult to travel Internationally. As a result Lake Kariba became ever more visited especially on short breaks for public holidays.
During these times people generally stayed in hotels or camping sites and it was a great way to make friends and meet people. Eventually a casino was built at one of the hotels. However most people went there for the opportunity to do some fishing, bask in the joy of having wild animals on your doorstep.
In latter years the concept changed and it became increasingly more popular to go on a houseboat, either hired or your own.
A typical houseboat
For hire

This would be if you wanted to go with a whole gang of your friends. Best suited to reunions and birthday parties and is real good fun for the younger crowd.
Houseboats.
Idyllic living
For me and my family this became an idyllic way to get away from the stress and trauma of everyday living and recharge low batteries.Normally we went with a couple of close friends or family and it took a bit of planning between everyone.
What happened was that you took your own food, drinks, fishing rods etc. and you tried to work out who would take what. Then of course getting your timing right as everyone lived in different parts of the country. For us it was about a four hour drive, notwithstanding that we could get held up by elephants or buffalo or maybe just a lovely bird that someone had spotted and we had to stop for a better look. So timing your arrival for 8am. meant a 4am. start.
Once there of course there was immediate talk of who saw what and some incredibly tall stories you had to put up with to. Then loading everything onto the houseboat although they are staffed and away you go.
Once out of the harbour and heading to wherever you wanted your first stop to be, remembering that Kariba is like a small sea. It's more or less 220kilometers long and 40kilometers wide.
Cup of tea in hand and the soft wind cooling you down as it gets very hot there, you await your breakfast.
On the water
A small sea

Typical Days on a Houseboat.
Paradise
Having had your breakfast which might comprise of, sausage, bacon, tomatoe, mushroom, liver, kidneys, baked beans and your choice of egg. Grand hey!, remember we are on holiday.Generally speaking on the first leg of your journey, you do not want to go to far as everyone is tired, especially the children.So you will draw up to some bank where you want to stay the night and generally not too far away from one of the lodges or hotels. Looking for some stout tree to rope the boat to, you (rather the staff)must be vigilant against Buffalo or crocodiles or hippopotamus (hippo). You are in the wild here.
Nearly always you would have towed three or four small speedboats behind you. So you pile into them and off to the hotel for a swim. Some of the hotels do not allow this but generally speaking they allow it at lunchtime and enjoy the extra income from passing trade so to speak. Then back to the houseboat so the kids can have a kip while the adults prepare the fishing gear.
At about 4pm. everyone will pair off so to speak and take the speedboats and do a spot of fishing. There is so much you can catch depending where you are but in general you will try for bream for a small snack before supper or Tigerfish which are one of the thrills to catch and fight like crazy.
Amongst all this, the animals are beginning to come to the waters edge to drink and hippo's are popping up all around you and I haven't even mentioned yet all the birdlife. So if the fish are not biting you don't get bored, you might even read that book you have been waiting to get into.
Get back to the boat before sunset and keep an eye out on the weather and the distance you have travelled from the boat because if the wind builds up or a storm is brewing you have no idea of how rough the lake becomes.
Once back and hopefully you have caught some fish, have a shower and with drink in hand sit back and enjoy the truly incredibly spectacular Kariba sunset.
Next comes supper, whatever you took with you, could be a roast of pork, lamb, beef, I can't tell you what to eat or what you like. Then it's bedtime, I always just dossed down on the deck somewhere with a mosquito net over me. I felt free.
In the morning up at the crack of dawn, tea flask in hand and off for some more fishing. All the game coming to life, hippo's popping up, birds singing, what a life. Then back to the boat and move off to the next spot whilst enjoying a leisurely breakfast and then the same old routine.
A Tiger Fish
Caught by my son

A predator at Kariba and marvellous fun to try and catch. If one becomes bored with fishing for bream, where you have just to put a worm on your hook, drop it over the side of the boat and wait for a bite. For Tigers you have to pitch and cast trying to lure them. One can either use an artificial spinner or small fish ( kapenta ) as bait.
If you get a bite that is when the fun begins, as they are terrific fighters and very strong fish. They will jump out of the water trying to release themselves amongst everything else and one has to try and outsmart them. This particular fish almost pulled my son ( aged 9 ) into the water and eventually went under the boat on the other side, but in the end he managed to make the catch. Of course he was ecstatic and he insisted we have it mounted for him. It weighed in at 5 Kgs. but they can go up to ten and more. Still a grand catch for anyone.
Sadly, because the ownership of the kapenta fishing boats have changed hands. The tigerfish is becoming more rare and harder and harder to find. They are an extremely boney fish and not that edible, so in the old days when caught by the kapenta nets they would be tossed back overhead. Now however this does not happen and they are sold to a starving populace.

Hippo

Sunset

At Peace
Fishing at Kariba
A great catch of bream
My daughter visited Kariba a couple of years ago. We just can't seem to stay away. She went with one of her childhood friends (pictured here) and their families. Because so few tourists now go there, the fishing is good. Here is a catch of bream. Beautiful to eat, imagine this as a hors doeuvres on the gas barbecue, with a bit of garlic butter thrown in. Ah, magic. As it turns out my daughter and my son are there at the moment and I can't wait to see some photo's. The call of Africa is so strong.

Waterbuck on the Banks

Elephant at Kariba

Having a Swim
Birdwatching
Lake Kariba birds

Fish Eagle at Kariba

When you are bored search for birds.
Kariba
Houseboats
Kariba a short break

Would love to go on a houseboat
Margaret_Schaut says:
Such things are such a break from the ordinary that you can't help but get in touch with deeper parts of yourself and the ones around you. My son LOVES fishing trips just like that and always has, what it does for his well-being has always amazed me. I think everyone should try it for several days and see how you feel. Beautiful and exciting pics too!
Best Bait For Catfish says:
Your pictures are wonderful! I would love to spend some time in Africa and what you explain about Zimbabwe it sounds like it would be a great place for a vacation. I've been to Island Park before where you see bear, buffalo, elk, deer, wolves, fox and other such wild animals. I would love to see the animals of Africa and fish the waters for the native fish. I wonder what the best bait for catfish would be in Africa.
Antoinette. says:
Oh did you make me homesick. We spent SO much time at Kariba 'cause of living in Karoi at the time. Only thing which I didn't like was some unscrupulous people feeding "flat dogs" (crocs.) off the back of the houseboats so tourists could take pics. So often we'd find crocs. following our smaller boats, hoping for a snack .. making us nervous! We found a huge croc. right in the middle of the lake where we'd been told there wouldn't be any!!! End of mid-lake swimming!
Mike Tanski says:
Fantastic. The photos are beauties, make me really homesick.
Antoinette Dick says:
Thanks Spook .. I enjoyed going down your memory lane. It was so close to where we lived that we were there often, as with Mana! Man, it also made me so homesick. Indeed, the call of Africa that only a heart from there can know!
Shaza Grainger - MD Holiday to Africa Ltd., says:
Hello Spook, I am dropping you this note so that you know I visited your page which I think is FANTASTIC AND FABULOUS. Keep up the good work.
Please can you let me know an idea of the type of itinerary and the cost for the houseboat, tiger and bream fishing, game viewing of course for 2 weeks.
I will put on my Fb Holiday to Africa and of course our main company website at http://www.holidaytoafrica.co.uk
Many thanks,
Kind regards,
Shaza.
Michelle1959 says:
We grew up with every spare moment there. Interestingly, it was with great anticipation & trepidation that we stood by to watch my boet launch the first house-boat there - Araboo 1. We did the houseboating and will do again soon, love it! With the change of currency - it's not that far a reach-out anymore...
RinchenChodron says:
Looks wonderful - perhaps tourism will come back.
Tipi says:
Would love to Spook.
tship1 says:
That is a beatiful lake. Can someone tell me about the two toed tribe. I would like to see pictures of their feet.
No ways man;boring
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Postscript
Lake Kariba
I guess everybody's just different hey. But this is what I used to love to do for a short break.Sadly Zimbabwe has really gone down over the past few years with a million per cent inflation and food in scarce supply. There is hardly any petrol or diesel to get anywhere amongst many other ills.
However the people battle on and at this time Kariba is a lost paradise. However nothing lasts forever and it is my wish that very shortly things will improve and once again tourists from all over the world may visit this splendid gem.
Things are improving again. Petrol and Diesel are back and the Zimbabwe currency is now the US dollar. More importantly, you will never meet a friendlier people on all sides and there is so much to see in this beautiful country. Begin booking your trips now.
Did You Have Fun Reading This.
Please leave a comment thanks.
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Margaret_Schaut
Mar 20, 2012 @ 7:36 am | delete
- It is exactly WHY I so very much want to visit Africa! Sounds wonderful to me.
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Spook
Mar 20, 2012 @ 10:14 am | delete
- It sure is and I sincerely hope that you can make it one day and soon.
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Rob3
Mar 18, 2012 @ 9:35 am | delete
- I loved reading this. It brought back memories of Kenya times in the 50's and 60's. Would have loved to visit Kariba, but never did. Good to meet another ex Africa person.
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Spook
Mar 20, 2012 @ 10:13 am | delete
- Good to meet you too and I have never been to Kenya although I hear it is breathtakingly beautiful.
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naheedahsan
Feb 21, 2012 @ 10:46 am | delete
- very beautiful picture, and very nice place....
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Spook
Mar 20, 2012 @ 10:12 am | delete
- Thank you.
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Tolovaj
Feb 13, 2012 @ 5:23 pm | delete
- Looks like fun experience... Thanks for sharing!
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Spook
Mar 20, 2012 @ 10:12 am | delete
- It's more than fun it is food for the soul.
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Grieta Spoor
Nov 17, 2011 @ 7:08 am | delete
- Very special.....spent 5 days on a houseboat Sept 2010....and Kariba is the ONLY place to find your soul again.,
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 12:04 pm | delete
- I have to agree with you and thanks for your visit and comment.
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Johnny Reilander
Nov 17, 2011 @ 6:55 am | delete
- Absolutely awesome work you have done here Spook, Thank you for the memories & for preserving fantastic parts of our heritage in your efforts.
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 12:03 pm | delete
- It's my pleasure and thank you for your visit and comment.
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Dianne Featherstone
Sep 13, 2011 @ 1:47 pm | delete
- very special Spook, made me home sick and you have a beautiful way of telling it as it was.Love the photos!
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 12:02 pm | delete
- What times everyone had there Dianne?
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Mike Tanski
May 22, 2011 @ 12:15 pm | delete
- Ah man it made me very melancholy - homesick in fact. I have been on those very waters. Your pictures and description brought it right in close.
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 12:01 pm | delete
- Thank you Mike, it sure was a great place to relax and unwind.
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Victoria Greig
May 22, 2011 @ 10:56 am | delete
- Just popped in at the recommendation of Mike T. Very interesting articles. My best friend was born and raised there too so he had told me many stories and his heart never left. Now I can see and read about what he was expressing to me through your excellent work. Cannot wait to go to Zimbabwe someday.
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 12:00 pm | delete
- I'm so happy to hear that and thanks for your visit and comment.
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Heather_Todd
May 6, 2011 @ 6:57 am | delete
- Thanks for the Great post!
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 11:59 am | delete
- You're more than welcome and thanks for visiting.
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howtocurecancer
Apr 28, 2011 @ 12:40 am | delete
- Photos are fantastics.
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Spook
Nov 17, 2011 @ 11:58 am | delete
- Thank you.
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The_Bard Apr 25, 2011 @ 7:26 pm | delete
- It's a great lens Kevin, and it had me enthralled throughout. Rich nostagia laced with love. How I hope one day that things will change there. I hope that you will be able to restore somehow your life there. Will it be possible? You are a fine fellow, and I am proud to know you.
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Spook
Apr 26, 2011 @ 5:16 am | delete
- Thank you and you have just given me an Idea. Why don't we plan a trip there? Airfares on you and your family, once there, everything else on us or rather my brother. For once perhaps you can catch your own meal as I know you like fish. Ever had bream? Think about it, sounds good.
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The_Bard Apr 27, 2011 @ 12:51 pm | delete
- Thanks very much. That's certainly food for thought!
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More of my
Squidoo writings
by Spook
I'm Kevin alias Spook. I was born and brought up in Zimbabwe and was one of the farmers who lost his land in the infamous land grab.
Here was a love...
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