My trip to the Algerian desert

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Algiers

When a friend told me that she was going to Algeria, I immediately found this was a unique opportunity to travel in a country that's usually pretty closed to the public. I know that tourists are allowed to go to some cities like Algiers, but can't go to certain regions, and to some others only if they're travelling with a tour-operator.

I have the chance to have a physical appearance that is pretty close to Kabyles, inhabitants of a small Berber region, supporter of independance, the Kabylie. Therefore, people simply assumed that I was a Kabyle during our whole trip we did on the road... yes! on the road from Algiers to Tamanrasset, in the Hoggar Mountains, about 1500 km far from the capital... Tamanrasset is an oasis city, and the chief city of the Algerian Tuareg. The fact that I don't speak neither Arabic nor Berber wasn't a big deal, because some Kabyles can speak only French (my mother tongue :) ).

To the South

We went through absolutely stunning regions, such as Ghardaia (picture), passed through the sand desert filled with dangerous wild camels (I know what it sounds like, but those camels are much bigger than the others, and more aggressive... even though they're not lions! ;) ), wondering if the vehicle was going to survive or not (we could see old bus shells on the sides of the "road"), because they were driving on a sort of path through the sand; be woken up when the sun was arising by the prayer of the morning (after a good night sleep sitting on an old seat ;) ), and finally, one day and a half later (with no food, and almost nothing to drink), we arrived in Tamanrasset.

Tamanrasset

Tamanrasset is an oasis city, and the chief city of the Algerian Tuareg (nomadic pastoralist people). The city in itself has no great interest. It is the capital of the Tamanrasset Wilaya, or Province. It is located at an altitude of 1320 m (4333 ft) in the Hoggar Mountains. It is also called Tamenghest in Berber (Tuareg's language).
It is also famous for having been the hometown of Blessed Charles de Foucauld, a religious leader who inspired the founding of the Little Brothers of Jesus, and who died in Tamanrasset in 1916.

Point of view

From all my travels, Algerians (all the different peoples) are the most adorable persons I had the chance to meet (with the Uyghur, but that's another story!).

The Hoggar Mountains

From Tamanrasset, we went with a guide in the rocky desert, and believe me, this is something I will never forget. We had the opportunity to go for 3 days in the desert with a guide, a Tuareg (thanks to my friend who can speak Arabic and Berber... extremely useful!!!).This was absolutely unbelievable!! We were alone, far away from the tourists and their pre-planned tours, and it was absolutely stunning...

Our guide could only speak Berber, I had to rely on the translations, but it was worth it! We passed through amazing lunar landscapes that you can see only there, in Algeria.

Our guide told us that it was a bit dangerous sometimes, because of the wadi. A wadi or oued is an Arabic term for a dry riverbed that contains water only during heavy rains. An Algerian singer has even been killed because he had been trapped in a valley that was filling with water, and apparently, he's not a unique case...
That's a very entertaining story, but we had other wonders to pay attention to, like those spectacular rocky paintings, attributed to the Neolithic Age (see the Polaroid below). They seem to have been painted the day before, it's absolutely amazing!

When the night fell, we experienced what "pitch black" really means (as well as "silence", as explained later...); we had to pitch the tents, prepare the dinner, do the washing-up, get prepared to go to sleep, all of this by the campfire light...
And what happened? Well, easy to guess!! We had much more light at 2 AM with the storm and lightning to get dressed, take the tents down, put everything into the Jeep, including ourselves, and leave the place that what starting to fill with water at an incredible speed...
Our guide parked the car in a slope, so if anything unusual happened once more, he'd just have had to start the car and leave. But the rest of the night was quiet, except that no one could really sleep.

In the morning, we went to visit some friends of his, who basically told him off because he hadn't taken us to them during the night! They offered us some fried goat's meat and fresh goat milk (it had just been milked and was still warm), that we had to at least try... At 8 AM, it's not so easy to be polite!

This guide was absolutely fabulous! He led us to some heights in the mountains, to visit some of his family (absolutely charming people who offered us dinner), to make us ride some camels for free (with some other friends of his!), to meet the guard of the Hoggar National Park, who taught us to prepare food by cooking it into the sand (don't ask me how... I'm usually a bad cook...), and that was delicious...

The experience was unbelievable, and so unique. We went to some other places like The Assekrem, highest point of the Hoggar Mountains, and Charles de Foucauld's place of retreat, but nothing as magical as what we experienced before...

Rock painting of a dance performance 

"Silence is more musical than any song."

Christina Rossetti (1830-1894)

Believe me, if you want to find out what the word "silence" means, go there! This was absolutely unbelievable!! We were alone, far away from the tourists and their pre-planned tours, and it was absolutely stunning... not only the amazing lunar landscape that was surrounding us, but the fact that, for the first, and maybe only, time of my life, there was no noise at all! What I mean, is that when you live in a city, and even in the countryside, there are always some noises: cars, neighbours, tvs, radios, fridges, toilets, but even birds, trees, the wind, it's never really quiet... In the rocky desert, it really is! We were alone, no wind, no birds (and most importantly, no neighbours, no mobiles, no "bips" at all!!!), the only thing we could hear was the sound of us breathing. For a Londoner, ex-Parisian, and fan of horror movies like me, it is disturbing the first day!!

But you get used to it, and when you get back to all your constant bips, you kinda regret this peaceful silence...

A bit of music...

Check out my favorite songs! I've handpicked these MP3s from Amazon. Take a listen. If you like, you can click to buy them on Amazon.

Tuareg of the Hoggar 

About the Berbers

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Algerian jewelry

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Some pics of this amazing place

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About Algeria

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Just go there and forget about your boss!!!

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