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Backcountry Skiing in Yellowstone

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Yellowstone Park All To Yourself!

 

Ninety nine per cent of the people visiting Yellowstone Park never leave the pavement. Imagine 4 days without seeing a soul--the whole place to yourself? That is what back country skiing and camping in late winter is all about. Its hard work, but the fun and solitude outweigh any of the negatives.

Flagg Ranch to Old Faithful Lodge 

Back Country Winter Camping

A couple of years ago myself and two other men joined me for a 28 mile loop in Yellowstone Park. Be were taken to the Lewis Lake trail head by the Park's yellow Sno Coach. The driver thought we were nuts to be heading into the back country at this time of the year. The average snow depth at this time of the year (late Feb) is 10-12 feet deep with average night time temps around 10 degrees. What about the bears? Well, thankfully they are still sleeping, and we promised not to disturb them if we ever found their dens.

Each day of our four day trip consists of skiing distances that range from 6 to 9 miles with 60 pound packs. Our first day of skiing was around 6 miles with a 1000 foot climb to a campsite with a large Fumerole. This is a type of geyser with no splash; only lots of steam. We arrived in camp around 3 pm and noticed the temperature was dropping quickly which was unusual. Mind you, we go at this time of the year because the below zero temps are rare. That night the temps dropped to minus 20 degrees----which is COLD!. Camping in below zero weather in a tent is just plain uncomfortable. But we survived and were anxious to get on the trail the following morning.

Some of you may wonder what kind of wildlife we encounter on these trip? Well, if squirrels and birds excite you, then this is the time of year to see a few. But if you want to see large game (deer, moose, bison, elk, wolves, etc...) winter is not the time to go to the Yellowstone backcountry.

Day two of our trip began clear and cold and we climbed to the Pitchstone Plateau which is a flat table like plateau at nine thousand feet of elevation. After nine miles of skiing we reached campsite number two and had a great dinner and early evening. Sleeping is not a problem on these trips!

Day three took us another 6 miles to Granite Pass south of Shoshone Lake and another unusual below zero night. I told you earlier we do not see animals but this year we found a bear den where the bear clearly had been doing some recent excavation. We all became a little jumpy, as we were clearly the only thing available for Mr. Bear to eat at this time of the year. We quickly left the area.

The forth day we skied over Granite Pass into the Fire Hole River drainage, past Lone Star Geyser. This geyser puts on quite a show every 4 hours and for upwards of 30 minutes. It actually is more impressive than Old Faithful. From the geyser to Old Faithful lodge was about another 6 miles over easy terrain and a groomed trail.

The best part of this trip is the meal at the New, Old Faithful Lodge. A steak and a glass of wine never tastes so good until you have skied 30 miles with a pack on.

It is such a great experience that I continue to go each winter in new areas and will do so until.... But the one thing I can count on every year---its Yellowstone's unique beauty, and breath taking solitude.

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Lensmaster

Victor wrote

If it weren't for the 60 pound pack, I'd join you! Where do the big game animals go if you don't see them in the back country? You tantalize me with the images of solitude. I have some experience backpacking, just not in winter conditions. I'd like to hear more about how you tent, cook, and navigate in winter conditions. I own a fly shop in Utah (RoundRocks.com) and fly fish in Yellowstone, so I've had to keep my ears tuned for bison and bears, but the most annoying animals are the 2-legged kind. Not seeing another person for 4 days could be pretty sweet--even if I couldn't fish. Great lens! I'll look for more from you!

Reply Posted January 31, 2008

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evanhanson

About evanhanson

Hey! I am an experienced winter backcountry skier with nine trips into the Yellowstone Park Area. Imagine Yellowstone Park to Yourself!

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