Berlin Reviews

Berliner Schnauze
"Die Berliner Schnauze", which means "The Berlin Tongue" or "The Berlin Mouth", is a term used to describe the mannerisms associated with Berliners, specifically their tendency for getting straight to the point and saying what they feel. This often gets them the reputation of being of being unfriendly, mainly because, if you do something to inconvenience a Berliner somehow, they'll never hesitate to tell scold you. However it is said that the reason Berliners always say what they feel is because they have very big hearts and this they are only "speaking from the heart". Once you get to know Berliners better you'll find them far friendlier, and in fact you are likely to find them to be far more genuine, which comes from their honesty and directness, and in many cases Berliners can be some of the nicest people you could ever meet. They key is: "be patient, and don't judge people on first impressions".

That said, Berlin is making a big effort to change forever the perception that the city is unfriendly or unwelcoming. Berlin's official website, Berlin.de, has launched a campaign in May called Herz & Schnauze to ensure Berliner's make an extra special effort to be friendly and welcoming. The Berliner Morgenpost also featured an article on this subject. You can read a somewhat imperfectly translated version courtesy of Google Translate via this link to the Berliner Schnauze article.

Dog Lovers
There are more dogs than children in Berlin. This common, although I'm not sure if factual, statistic is quite evident when you walk around Berlin. Everyone seems to have a dog, and because they are allowed to go almost everywhere, including shops, trains and restaurants, people take full advantage and bring them with them almost everywhere they go.

English
Berliners are very modest about their English abilities; usually admitting that they're English is not so good, while they peruse James Joyce's Ulysses. The fact is any Berliner who says their English is not so good is probably almost fluent, or at least has ten-time better English than most English speakers have German. However you may on occasion come across some people who don't speak much, or any English. This is when your Leaving Certificate (A-levels, Final Exams) German comes in handy. When pushed, sometimes your only option is to try to speak some poorly constructed German.

The Language Barrier
If you need to fill in an official form, you can be almost certain that it is only available in German, and even if you speak a reasonable bit of German you can be almost sure there will be a number of large legal definitions that you won't understand. Why this is the case is to me unclear. In Ireland one can apply for a driving licence in English, Irish, Polish, German, French, Spanish, Latvian, Lithuanian and Estonian. In Germany you can apply in German. Be aware of this and bring your dictionary when attempting to complete the many official forms you'll need to fill in if you intend to stay in Berlin.

Bad Language
Unlike the Irish, who have invented are curse word for every situation, Berliners only really seem to use one or two; the most notable one beinh "scheisse", which means sh*t, or equally inoffensive variants like "scheissegal", which people use to say: "I don't give a damn/sh*t/f*ck", e.g. Das ist mir scheissegal. The point being we have at least three curse words for their one, which means Berliners curse a lot less than Irish people, perhaps predominantly because they'd only get bored of using the same words all the time.

Cycling
Berliners of all ages cycle a lot. They'd put most of our parents to shame. A common error of tourists is to arrive at Zoo station, walk out the door and walk straight onto the cycle path, a mistake they'll surely make only once. Due to very regular use of these cycle lanes, you are more than likely to be immediately blasted by bicycle bells, which must, by law, be fitted on all bikes in Berlin, and cyclists will surely use them if you're in their way.

Obeying the Rules
If the man is red you wait. If the man is green you can go. That's the rule. Of course, most people will cross on red at a pedestrian crossing if there is nothing coming and it's quite clearly safe. Not Berliners. And if you cross on red while a Berliner waits for the green man, they will more than likely tell you what you're doing is wrong.

Driving
Berliners seem to impatient drivers, and in some cases are intolerant of the smallest of errors. And if you do something wrong, even something minor, whilst driving in Berlin, someone will probably let you know. For example, unlike in many countries, where you go on green, in Berlin you go on amber, and if you aren't beginning to move on amber you will be 'gently' reminded by the horns of at least three drivers behind you. But despite their attention to rules and despite the ridiculously rigorous driving lessons and tests required in order to receive your licence, I noticed a number of drivers who demonstrated very bad habits whilst I was regularly driving around Berlin on a delivery job. Perhaps due to the predominantly flat landscape of Berlin, many drivers don't seem to use their handbrakes when they are stopped at lights, or their footbrakes for that matter. Inevitably I have noticed on a number of occasions that the car in front is slowly rolling back towards me until, luckily, the driver realised.

Disobeying the Rules
Despite sticking hard and fast by most of the rules, Berliners seem to have no problem letting their dogs drop a number two at any given time in any given place. This is a fineable offence but nobody pays any attention to it, since it is never enforced. Hence, best to watch your step, especially when it's dark.

Motorways
As for driving on motorways, people seem to take on a whole different persona once they hit the motorway. Forget the rules, forget about safety; the faster they can go the better. The misconception is that all German motorways, or Autobahns, do not have speed limits. The fact is that some sections of the Autobahns do have a speed limit of 130km/h, a fact that German's seem to completely ignore as they zip past in 180km/h in the outside lane.

No Boots, No Hard-Hat... never mind
Perhaps due to the fact that there are just too many rules on building sites in Berlin, workers seem to have decided to ignore all of them, sauntering around in runners and baseball caps with a bottle of beer in hand.

Sundays
Almost everything is closed on Sundays. Sunday is a day of rest. That's the rule, and even though Berlin is sometimes said to be one of the most atheist cities in Europe, people seem to want to stick by the 'day of rest' rule. With the exception of a few special cases, supermarkets, fashion stores and most other types of shops are closed on Sundays. Cafés, restaurants, pubs and cinemas are open though. In addition almost all Berlin museums are open on Sundays, which is sometimes a good excuse to visit them, since you'll have nothing better to do.

Nightclubs
On the contrary, unlike shops whose opening hours are restricted and banned on Sundays, Nightclubs are allowed to stay open all night, with no statutory closing time. The night ends when the revellers start to dwindle. That's the rule. When everyone else starts to leave, that's when it's time for you to go home too. Or is it? In many cases people aren't actually going home, but instead they're moving on to the next club, which is only starting to kick off.

Staring
Some people think Berliners stare at them a lot, especially on the U-Bahns and S-Bahns. I can say that it has been a problem for me. Maybe people on the receiving end of the stares are particularly good looking, or maybe they are just a little too self conscious. Either way I find reading on the train is a great way to pass the time, and it will give you something else to think about other tham whether people are looking at you. I was never much of a reader before, citing a lack of time as an excuse. So now I have at least 40 mins every day in which to read... it's better than nothing. And in this time I've discovered and finished some great books, including The Reluctant Fundamentalist, John McAhern's "The Pornographer", The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy and the sequels, The Road by Cormac McCarthy, author of No Country for Old Men. And if you don't like to read, just bring your iPod, close your eyes and drift away in a world of your own. Don't miss your station though!

1. Gedaechtniskirche (Memorial Church) at Breidscheid Platz
23 November 2009 - 3 January 2010
Sun. - Thu. 11:00 - 21:00
Fri. - Sat. 11:00 - 22:00
Admission: Free
Directions: Map

2. Weihnachtsmarkt vor dem Roten Rathaus (Christmas Market at the Red Rathaus)
23 November - 27 December 2009
(Closed Christmas Eve)
Daily 11:00 to 21:00
Fri and Sat until 22:00
Christmas Day and Stephens Day (Boxing Day) until 22:00
Admission: Free
Directions: At the Big Wheel near the Alexander Platz. View Map

3. Alexa Shopping Centre
Now Open
Mon. to Fri. 13:00 - 22:00
Sat. and Sun: 10:00 - 22:00
Admission: Free
Directions: Beside Alexa Shopping Centre near Alexander Platz.
View Map

4. Opern Palais (Opera Palace) Unter den Linden
23 November - 27 December 2009
Mon. - Thu: 12:00 - 21:30
Fri. - Sat: 11:00 - 22:30
Sun: 11:00 - 21:30
24.12: Closed
Christmas Day and Stephens Day (Boxing Day): 11.30 - 21:00
27.12: 11:30 - 21:00
Admission: Free
Directions: View Map

5. Gendarmenmarkt
23 November - 31 December 2009
Sun. - Thu: 11:00 - 22:00 Uhr
Fri. - Sat: 11:00 - 23:00 Uhr
24.12: 11:00 - 18:00
31.12: 11:00 - 01:00
Public Holidays: 11:00 - 22:00
Admission: Eur1, Children up to 12 free
Directions: Map

6. Potsdamer Platz
23 November 2009 until 27 December 2009
Sun. - Fri: 10:00 - 22:00
Sat. 10:00 - 24:00
Christmas Eve: 10:00 - 16:00
Admission: Free
Directions: Map

7. Kulturbrauerei
23 November - 22 December 2009
Mon. - Fri: 15:00 - 22:00
Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 13:00 - 22:00
Admission: Free
Directions: View Map

On the 9th of November 1989, the Cold War came to its definitive end, without a single shot being fired. As the Berlin Wall fell piece by piece, and East-Berliners flooded into the West, some for the first time in their lives, the Iron Curtain rose and re-united Eastern and Western-Europe.

Twenty years on, Berlin is celebrating two decades of reunification, staging a range of events throughout the year. Accompanied by guests from around the world, with contemporary witnesses as well as public personalities, the city will celebrate this unforgettable event.

This poignant moment in history will be remembered in particular from the 7th to 9th of November, with the Festival of Freedom taking place on both sides of the Brandenburg Gate, the symbol of the German capital. This event will be attended by famous artists, cultural figures and prominent politicians, the highlight of which will be the staging of a symbolic fall of the Wall using a 'domino effect', featuring oversized stones designed by the youth of Germany.

The long awaited Eur30million under-budget renovation by British Architect David Chipperfield in conjunction with conservation Architect Julian Harrap is complete, and the Museum has now been re-opened to the public. It once again houses collections from the ägyptisches Museum Berlin (Egyptian Museum), including the iconic "Bust of Nefertiti", and exhibits from the Museum of Pre and Early History.

The Neues Museum is located on Berlin's Museuminsel (Museum Island) among other museums such as the Pergamon, Bode and Altes Museum. Originally designed by Architect Friedrich August Stüler and constructed between 1841 and 1859, it was destroyed by the British in World War II. Now, 60 years later a British architect has restored and re-presented it to Berlin.

Germany loves Chipperfield. Many of his seminal works are here, including the the Galerie am Kupfergraben, which is also located on Museum Island. However, the Neues Museum is set to be his finest masterpiece to date.

The new design approach was neither a full restoration nor a complete remodelling, but rather, one of timeless integration. Following the guidelines of the Venice Charter, Chipperfield's design respects the historical structure in its different states of preservation. We are gently reminded of the Museum's historical scars, and exhilarated by its newly re-mastered spaces.

Such a modest design and restoration approach has resulted in the project coming under budget, from Eur230m to Eur200m; an unusual outcome for national projects of this nature. Chipperfield's humility is to be praised for not competing with the splendour of this ruin, but instead serving to highlight its magnificence: a thoughtful and brave strategy for any Architect.

The public had access for 3 days in March to view the building in its empty splendor. However, the official opening, showcasing its new collection has proven to be the cultural highlight of the year for Berlin. Since re-opening the museum has been inundated with visitors, so much so that you need to book your visit for a particular timeslot. That is, you choose a 30 minute period during which you can enter the museum, but you can stay as long as you want. For more information, and to book an entance time slot, click on the following link to the Neues Museum ticket-reservation section.

The 12 May 2009 marked the 60th Anniversary of the end of the Berlin Blockade enforced by Stalin in an attempt to force the Allies out of western Berlin. On 12 May 1949 the Soviet Union lifted their barricades, restoring access to the city, thus admitting defeat thanks to the heroic efforts of American, British, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand and South African pilots who facilitated the Berlin Airlift. These brave pilots supplied approximately 2.3 million tons of food, medicine, coal, and other goods to the citizens of western Berlin on 278,000 flights over the 15 month period of the blockade. Their efforts were remembered today at Templehof Airport.

Notably, the pilots also dropped chewing gum and chocolate bars tied to handkerchief parachutes from what became known as the Rosinenbomber, meaning Raisin Bomber or Candy Bomber. Candy Bomber Tours are now available in English from Air Service Berlin, who also offer Helicopter and Hot Air Balloon Tours of Berlin, as well as Tandem Skydiving jumps.

On the 5th of November 2009, Berlin hosted the MTV European Music Awards. The EMAs will took place in the O2 World Arena. The show was presented by Katy Perry with support from Pete Wentz as a digital host. Among the guest presenters announcing the winners were actress and singer Juliet Lewis from Juliet and The Licks, The Backstreet Boys, wrestler Batista, German ex-tennis player Boris Becker, actor Jean Reno, singer Joss Stone and the Jonas Brothers.

A stroke of good luck meant we were in the right place at the right time and acquired free tickets whilst standing outside the arena, and the show was a big hit. Green Day and Foo Fighters rocked the stage, playing two songs each to the live audience. Foo Fighters new Tom Petty like hit, Wheels, was followed by my all time favourite "All My Life", while Green Day blasted out "Minority" after their recent hit, "Know Your Enemy". Also performing were Tokio Hotel, Jay-Z, Shakira, and Leona Lewis.

The dedicated MTV EMA website is still in operation. Information on more events at the O2 World Arena are available on the purchase tickets for the EMAs in Berlin O2 World website.

On October 29, 2009 Muse played the O2 World Arena in Berlin. From my experience, having seen them play live 5 times, Muse have never played a bad gig, injecting originality and energy into every song at every show I've ever seen them play, with plenty of musical ad-lib and interaction with the crowd. Interraction, not so much in words, but through well-planned but heart-felt solos played to the crowd, not at the crowd, intertwined between their big hits, communicating their message to the crowd through amazing musical ability and brilliant visual effects. Unfortunately I couldn't make it to this gig, but apparently, true to form, the gig went down as a major success, the fans who were there giving it a big thumbs up on the Muse forum.

Read more about Muse.