Botswana Luxury Safaris…..

First to the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans in central-north Botswana. These pans represent the last visible remains of a 'super lake', once known as Lake Makgadikgadi, which disappeared about 20,000 years ago. The only remaining water in this region is the Okavango Delta and, of this (assuming high floodwater), only something like 3 % flows past Maun and down the Boteti River to Makgadikgadi. Along the Boteti Gorge is a small privately owned and managed camp called Meno A Kwena, or "Tooth of the Crocodile". It was a huge privilege to be at Meno A Kwena when the water arrived after an absence of 15 years! I watched the life-bringing fingers of water creep along the sand floor of the dry riverbed in front of camp. Incredibly, within minutes, small fish appeared, followed by dragonflies and emerging frogs, some of which had been hibernating for many years. By nightfall two-foot long catfish were swimming in the shallows. Built by David Dugmore who has been guiding and running safaris for over 20 years, Meno A Kwena is special because of its position and individuality. The best time to visit is from May to end October and this is a camp which is focused on being here for both the animals and the local people of the area.

I also love it here during the dry season as one does not always have to venture out on game drives; instead the game comes to camp or, rather, to the waterhole in the gorge in front of camp. Thousands of zebra, wildebeest and elephant form an endless stream of visitors and one can get even closer by spending time in Meno's hide at the water's edge, to the extent that your big telescopic lens can be swapped for a wide angle! David and his staff have worked tirelessly for many years to maintain the pumps and network of vital waterholes that provide much-needed water for the zebra and wildebeest that live in this desolate, dry, but rewarding park. Herd upon herd, sometimes up to 2,000 strong, make their weary way through the park to this much needed life-source and an ever-abiding memory at Meno is also the constant birdsong of the many avian visitors which drink and nest at this wonderful spot. The camp is full of character; the furniture is made onsite by a reformed (and retrained!) ex-poacher and the eight simple, yet very comfortable, tented rooms in this authentic tented camp are individually surrounded by their own wooden bomas which give privacy and traditionally offered protection to cattle from the black-maned Kalahari lions which still wander through camp after dark.

Overlooking the gorge are various tented viewing areas filled with voluminous Lamu-inspired metal beds and soft cushions; ideal look out positions! There is also a small rock swimming pool. This adds to the camp's outstanding personality which is also emphasised by the fact that this is a "real camp". David's creation is deliberately not a luxury 5 star affair, instead being an unmissable experience combining splendid hosting with an introduction to Botswana's wildlife and people. On which note, guests at Meno may also visit the nearby village of Moreomaoto where the camp supports the community and especially the children, with practical donations such as musical equipment and computers.

Now to the Delta! 35% of Botswana has been designated for wildlife preservation and the best known attraction is of course the 15,000 square kilometre Okavango Delta, the only remaining inland delta in Africa. One of the prettiest and most authentic water-based camps in the Okavango has to be Xigera. Situated on an island deep in the heart of this water wilderness, Xigera is a luxury permanent tented camp which is aptly described as 'a wetland paradise' and has a calm and peaceful atmosphere with constant birdsong from sunrise to sunset. The camp's ten rooms sit atop wooden platforms and are constructed of poles and canvas with large gauze windows that let in the gentle light. Surrounded by palm, jackalberry and African mangosteen trees, each room has superb views facing the sunrise. There is a main central building housing the bar and dining room; this sports an open verandah area and is bordered by a small stream which splits the "public areas" from the rooms. The stream is spanned by a footbridge which is often used by hyena and other wildlife who don't want to get their paws or hooves wet! During dinner I saw a leopard, just feet away, head off across the bridge on her nightly wander around the island. We were alerted to her presence, as no doubt were the other inhabitants of the forest, by the cackling warning signals of the baboons%u2026.

Xigera's floodplains are absolutely beautiful. A mokoro ride through the swathes of floating water lilies, roamed by Red lechwe, is a magical experience. One can also do motorboat trips and 4x4 game drives as well as walking on the islands. On one of these walks I managed to see not one, but three, Pels fishing owls - possibly one of the world's most elusive birds. The ideal dense palm and jackalberry filled islands of this permanent wetland are ideal for these rare, fluffy, golden caramel-coloured owls. They hunt at night, when the fish eagle has retired, using their enormous dark almond eyes to scan the shallow waters. Other birds to look out for are giant and malachite kingfishers, go-away birds, slaty egret, African jacanas, black coucal, African rail, golden weaver, green backed heron, whiskered tern and red winged pratincoles which make their way here to breed near the miscanthus grass tussocks.

Now to the last word in luxury: Zarafa Camp. Zarafa is an astounding, small camp in possibly the most beautiful reserve in Botswana, Selinda. This breathtaking place, which is a cross between a luxury designer lodge and a luxury camp has just four large, beautifully appointed "marquee style" canvas tented rooms. Each of the spacious rooms has a footprint of close to 100 square metres (or around 1000 square feet) with spectacular views over the water lily-filled floodplains and savannah. An en-suite bathroom, complete with copper bath, basins and shower, includes an outdoor shower situated at the end of a wooden walkway to the side of the tent. Every thought has been put into the comfort of the guests, thus each room has a writing desk, reference books, bar service, telescope, small private pool, overhead fan and beautiful handcrafted copper fireplace. Each room also has the use of a canon 450D camera with lens to use during the stay! The camp recently decommissioned its generators and now runs purely on solar power. Zarafa is owned by Derek and Beverley Joubert, both Emmy award winning wildlife cinematographers whose style and personal touch is reflected throughout the camp. The guiding here is superlative with twice daily game drives in open landcruisers and walks across the floodplains. Walking is actually central to this experience, being one of the best ways to learn about the wildlife and gain a totally different perspective of the environment. The Selinda Reserve is home to several prides of lion as well as leopard, wild dog, elephant, buffalo, cheetah, lechwe and giraffe, the latter's local name being Zarafa.

Finally something very different: Nguni Houseboat plies the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers, separating Botswana, from where Nguni is accessed, from Namibia in whose waters she travels. I loved my all-too-brief stay; the Nguni staff being delightful and the live-afloat experience a memorable contrast to being in camp. The houseboat takes only ten guests and each of the five comfortable cabins has its own tender and guide so one has total freedom to decide when you want to head out onto the waters for some bird watching, game viewing by boat or fishing. Chobe National Park fronts the river and, in the dry season, one has a grandstand view of hundreds of elephant and other game coming down to drink. The boat is owned and managed by Haydn and his capable crew. During the fishing season of May-July the boat travels between Katima Mulilo (Namibia) and Kasane (Botswana). In a typical three night stay one might spend the first night moored on the Zambezi and then the following days along the Chobe River near Sedudu Island and/or at Serondella in Chobe National Park. Wonderful!