You can buy a car (or cars) without going through the usual dealership pain!
Although I have a degree in biology and I've been an editor-writer for the past 25 years, there have been a few times in my career when the job market for editor-writers dried up. I've scrambled with other gigs--and twice, once in New Mexico and once in California, I've gotten a job at a car dealership as a "salesperson". And yes, both places told me that my sales skills were so bad that I couldn't sell underwear to a naked man in Alaska.
Although I might not have been the best thing in sales at the car lot, I did learn a lot about how to buy a car--and also how NOT to buy a car. That's what I've decided to do here. I'd like to help you with your car buying experience so that you don't think that all car salespeople are lower than slime-eating fungus.
Do Your Homework
If you are interested in a particular type of car, do your research. Do your homework. If you know specifically what kind of car you want, you can more quickly pinpoint the car you want when you go to a dealership.
For cars that are less than 5 to 10 years old, go online to Kelly Blue Book online (http://www.kbb.com/) or Edmonds (http://www.edmunds.com/) and do some basic research. List the year, manufacturer, make, model, and options in the fields provided and then do a search on the vehicle. Click on the suggested "retail price" (the dealership's price should be close to this). Then also check on "trade-in/wholesale value" and "private sale value". Checking these other two figures will give you an idea of how much "wiggle-room" the dealership has with the vehicle. If the "wiggleroom" isn't more than $2000 to $3000, there's something wrong with the car. You should be able to negotiate at least about $1000 off from the retail price of the car--and if you have your print-out from kbb.com or edmunds.com, you'll have the figures to back up your proposition. This tactic usually only works if you are NOT trading in your vehicle.
Don't Put Too Much Stuff on the Negotiation Table
Don't trade in your car at the dealership when you are buying a car. A private sale is sometimes a better deal for you (and the buyer). But particularly at the car lot. When you are negotiating on a price for your new car, you see the MSRP (if you are buying a new one) or the "Sticker" if you are buying a used one. The dealership stands to make a whole lot more money if you buy the used one (there's more "wiggle-room" there). The manufacturers may have rebates and other "incentives" for you to buy the car. Too much on the table. Negotiate the price first--and use your print-outs from kbb.com or edmunds.com as a "back-up" for your basis of negotiation. Don't let them distract you with the "incentives" or "rebates" or other "play-money"... Negotiate the price FIRST. Once you have the price established, then you can ask for the rebates and other incentives!
Again--the ONLY thing that you should be talking about at the dealership is the car you want to buy. No trade in. No incentives. No rebate.
After you have negotiated the TOTAL price of the car you want to buy (including registration, taxes, insurance <this also should be prearranged with your insurance agent>, only then do you bring in the "rebate" and "incentives". Your trade-in should NEVER come up in the discussion. In fact, try not to trade in your car. Go to eBay or CraigsList.com to sell it. You'll do better in the end.
Arrange Your Own Financing or Purchase Funds Beforehand
If possible, take a kbb.com or edmunds.com printout of the car with options you want to purchase to your local bank or credit union. If the financial institution approves the loan beforehand and gives you a letter that confirms that the loan is approved to a certain amount, you have more power to negotiate the deal. To a dealership, if you have the cash pre-arranged, they will work harder to meet your price because they know you are a serious buyer and will walk to the neighboring dealership and spend your money there if they get flakey. Sometimes, however, you can get something called a CUDL (pronounced "cuddle" <grin>)--which is "Credit Union Direct Lending"... This method might be a good way to get the car because you may be able to get a decent simple interest rate and you could use it to bolster your credit score a bit if it is such that it needs bolstering. Don't shop too many dealerships or banks--if possible, focus on one type of car and one dealership. If you shop too many dealerships--you start getting too many inquiries on your credit... which, in turn screws up your credit rating for later use (such as if you are buying a house or getting some other kind of loan).
If you assure the salesperson that you want a quick and easy deal--that you've done your homework, you have the financing/funds already arranged, that you'd like to drive out that same day within the shortest time possible and you state a reasonable price you are willing to pay for the car based on the kbb/edmunds MSRP or vehicle-retail value rating--you can be surprised how fast the salesperson will move on helping you to get the car. a fast deal is always appreciated at a dealership. If you say you will stand firm--they will either move quickly or ask you to leave. If you leave, it's their loss. And... always be prepared to leave. Tell them that you will not put up with the "walk back to the 'sales manager' for approval dance back-and-forth" game. Tell them, this is my offer.... take it or leave it. And yes, you may have to leave. Of course, don't propose a preposterous discount on the vehicle--enough to save yourself some money, but hey, if the car has value, the salesperson does deserve to make a decent commission on the deal.
Timing is Essential
When's the best time to buy a car? At the end of the month!--within 2 to 3 days from the end of the month, particularly if it's a weekday rather than a weekend. Dealerships reward their salespeople by giving bonuses to those who exceed a certain quota per month. Some salespeople may be having a bad month in that they haven't met the minimum number of cars needed to even keep their jobs (I know--because I've been there!). Sometimes even the dealership is having a bad month (gas prices, economic downturn, new competition, bad advertising, and so on).
So, when you go in to the dealership with the funding arranged and your research completed and the car is ON THE LOT READY TO GO... the salesperson and sometimes the dealership will almost do backflips and give substantial discounts and other goodies just to get that last car off the lot.
If the weather has been bad for the whole last week of the month (or the two to three days preceding the last day of the month--even better). Dealerships usually have fewer folks on the lot when there's snow, rain, fog, hurricanes, excessive heat, and so on. So, they will be more inclined to help you move a car off their lot when you come in during or after that bad weather.
The Classic Used Car Alternative
If you want to get an exclusive kind of automobile, dealerships (except for specialty dealerships) may not be the way to go. With online search and purchase capabilities now available, you can search the whole world for a vehicle if that's what you really want. A friend of mine has done some driving for a fellow who has found more than 10 used classic cars through eBay. The fellow finds the car on eBay, then starts a dialog with the seller (and perhaps starts bidding on the car). When the auction or "Buy It Now" time period is over, the fellow or my friend fly or drive over to the seller's location--go over the car and its working condition and either drive the thing home or get a rental trailer/tow truck to bring it home. It's an interesting way to get cars that are more than 10 to 15 years old or cars that are very rare.
Click here for all the cars and trucks currently available on eBay! Wow!
When you drive up to the country club in your Rolls Royce or your Bentley or your Lamborghini, no one is going to sneer at you because it's a "used car".
I hope this little posting will help you with your purchases of the car(s) of your dreams. Happy Driving! (And be sure you link to me and let your friends know about this great way to save money and get some cool wheels!).
Clutch Burners Car Show -- Fun with Photos
Chrome Hood Ornament - Red Flyer
If you'd like any of the other images shown on a T-Shirt or other goody, let me know.
Chrome Hood Ornament, Red Fly Greeting Cards (Pack
During a car show, this chrome hood ornament on a red car seemed to fly when the overhanging trees rustled in the wind.
Greeting Cards (Pk of 10)
Price: 17.99
Chrome Hood Ornament, Red Fly Postcards (Package o
During a car show, this chrome hood ornament on a red car seemed to fly when the overhanging trees rustled in the wind.
Postcards (Package of 8)
Price: 9.99
Chrome Hood Ornament, Red Fly Magnet
During a car show, this chrome hood ornament on a red car seemed to fly when the overhanging trees rustled in the wind.
Magnet
Price: 4.73
Chrome Hood Ornament, Red Fly Keepsake Box
During a car show, this chrome hood ornament on a red car seemed to fly when the overhanging trees rustled in the wind.
Keepsake Box
Price: 25.99
Chrome Hood Ornament, Red Fly Rectangle Magnet
During a car show, this chrome hood ornament on a red car seemed to fly when the overhanging trees rustled in the wind.
Rectangle Magnet
Price: 6.99
The best way to prepare for buying a Vehicle? Research!
Drive on in and drop off your opinion! Got a Car Story? Let Us Know!
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Robert_Wisconsin_preowned
Very informative. Although I must agree with petergrizzly, it's hard to find accurate bluebooks nowadays. Posted June 27, 2008 |
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petergrizzly
Very informative. It's very difficult to find an accurate bluebook nowadays, but this lens points to a good one. Thanks for this. :) Posted May 26, 2008 |
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QuantumTraveler
Thanks for all the good info on your site. I really find this helpful because you and I share a common interest----cars. Posted May 07, 2008 |
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Karendelac
5 star information, very informative reading. Please visit me soon. Posted July 11, 2007 |
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