Q: What is the best way to introduce a new cat into a multi-cat household?
A: The first thing we suggest about bringing another cat into your house is that you have it feline leukemia tested before introducing him to your existing cat(s). When you are sure your new cat has tested negative for feline leukemia, shut him in an extra room along with his litter, food and water for at least a week or two. (This room will become a "safe spot" for your new cat. Anytime he gets spooked in the future, he'll return to this room for comfort). While your new cat is getting adjusted to his new surroundings, it allows your existing cat to smell his new friend under the door. After about 3-4 days, open the door and let your cats see each other, but don't let them get close. Use a screen or baby gate so they can view each other safely. In another day or two, open the door again and let them get closer. Continue this process. It is very important that you give both cats equal attention throughout the process. Some cats will adjust very quickly and get along fine while others will take much longer. Some cats will never become buddies; they will only tolerate each other's existence.

Q: Why does my cat rub his head on me or on objects in my house?
A: Your cat is marking his scent on you - he is claiming you as his territory! Head rubbing is also a greeting. Cats have scent glands on their cheeks, their head, and on their paws. You will often see them rub their cheeks on you or on the furniture to mark their territory. You will also notice that even if they are declawed, they will go through the motions of sharpening their claws. The reason they do this is to mark their scent.

Q: What type of litter is best?
A: Each cat owner has their personal opinion about clumping vs. non-clumping. Use the one that is best for you. Cats usually prefer unscented litter. A clean litter box is most important.

Q: Is it best to adopt a kitten or an older cat?
A: The easiest answer to this question is that you know what you're getting when you adopt an older cat. When you adopt a kitten, you have no idea what his / her personality will be. With an older cat, you will be able to tell if he's a snuggler, whether he's playful, if he likes to be held, etc.

Q: How old do cats need to be before you can get them neutered / spayed?
A: It all depends on your particular vet. Some say that kittens must be at least 6 months old before they can be sterilized, although other vets will sterilize as young as 2 months (8 weeks). Veterinary studies done on "juvenile" spaying and neutering (younger than the previously accepted practice of always waiting until 6 months) indicate that there are no medical reasons that a spay or neuter cannot be done at a younger age, but that a specific gas anesthesia must be used. A young growing kitten would tend to heal faster and comes out of anesthesia quicker than an older cat. If you own a male and female kitten, please remember that some cats will become sexually mature before 6 months of age. Keep an eye on the interactions of your own cats to prevent kittens from having kittens!

Q: Should I have my cat declawed?
A: No, declawing is not a necessary surgery. Cats, and most especially kittens, can be easily trained to use scratching posts. See Glenda Moore's article on declawing below.

Q: How long do cats live?
A: Cats typically live 15 - 20 years. Genetics and environment both play a part (indoor cats have much fewer dangers to face every day, so will tend to live longer).

Q: If I have a male cat at home, is it better to adopt another male or a female?
A: The answer to this question varies considerably depending on the personalities of the cats. Example: If you have a very shy cat, it's best not to get another that is aggressive. Your shy cat will feel threatened and hide. Try to match the personalities of the cats. The highest incidence of urine marking or spraying comes with bringing an adult female cat into a household with an adult male cat. The male may react by spraying.

Q: What can I do if my cat stops using the litter box?
A: First, take your cat to the vet and rule out any medical conditions such as a urinary tract infection. If your cat gets the green light from the vet, consider the following:

Clean the Litter Box
Dump the entire contents of the litter box, wash it with soap and water and refill it with four inches of litter. Remove any solids and urine clumps daily. A dirty litter box is the number one reason a cat stops using it.

Take the Hood Off
A hood is great for keeping litter in the box but also holds in odor. Often a cat will reject the box because of the odor retained in the box. The hood also keeps you from seeing that it needs to be cleaned.

Re-think the Location of Your Cat's Litter Box
A quiet corner, out of the way of household traffic, but with easy access is best. Noise, light and vibrations can be disturbing. Also, don't place the litter box near your cat's food. Cats do not like to eat where they poop!

Switch to an Unscented or Moisture Release Litter
Maybe your scented litter has too much scent. Use only a moisture release scented litter. Cats do not always like the smell of strong perfumes or cedar. Have more than one litter box. (see Supplies section).

Clean the Area
If your cat has used an area other than the litter box, clean the area thoroughly. Use an enzymatic cleaner on the carpet or floor and then put things around the area they don't like, such as a citrus "stick-up," ground up moth balls or squares of aluminum foil or plastic. You want to make it tough for them to go back, and easy for them to use their litter box. This should help you get your cat back in the box. If the problem persists, consult your veterinarian.

Q: Are there benefits to spaying / neutering my cat?
A: YES! Obviously spaying and neutering your cat cuts down on the overpopulation of pets, but it also has some individual benefits as well. By spaying your female cat, you reduce or eliminate the risk of breast cancer, tumors of the reproductive system, false pregnancies, uterine infections and certain skin conditions related to hormonal imbalances. By neutering your male cat, you may reduce the risk of cancer and other health problems. Also in the case of males, neutering often reduces objectionable behavior such as roaming, fighting and spraying.

Q: Do I need to give my cat a bath?
A: Most cats will not regularly require an immersion bath, but if they get into anything dangerous (oil from the car, cleaning products, etc.) they would be better off with you getting the substance off with water instead of them ingesting it. If your cat has some dandruff or a greasy spot (usually because they are overweight and cannot reach much of their back) you can take a moist rag (water only) and help keep that area clean. Brushing also helps keep dandruff and other problems down. There are also moist towelettes sold in pet supply stores that can be used to reduce cat allergens, if there is a mild allergy in the family.

Q: Why does my cat get so crazy at night?
A: Dusk is the time in which a cat typically hunts. He will instinctively become more active at this time. Incorporate a highly active play session with your cat before bedtime - this will tire him out and he will be more apt to sleep when you do.

Q: Do long haired cats shed more than short haired ones?
A: A cat can have over 150,000 hairs per square inch, which gives you a little forewarning of the shedding potential of any cat. It isn't the length of hair, but usually the environment that determines the shedding level - in warm seasons (or in a warm house) any cat will shed more than in a cooler environment. Cats fur can range from thick to very fine, which will help determine how visible their shed hair will be around your house and on your clothing. The finer, longer fur will tend to show up as clumps of fur, whereas a shorter hair will tend to leave an even coat everywhere.

Q: How can I control my cat's shedding?
A: Although you will never stop a cat from shedding completely, there are two things you can do to control it. 1. Feed your cat a quality cat food that provides the necessary nutrition. 2. Brush your cat daily. This will also cut down on the amount of hair your cat digests and will help prevent the dreaded fur balls!

Q: What is the best way to introduce my cat to my newborn baby?
A: Start the introduction before you bring the baby home from the hospital. Bring home blankets that your baby has slept in. Wear lotion on your hands that you will use for your baby. Remember, scent is extremely important to cats. You can also tape record your baby crying and play it in your house. When you bring your baby home, let your cat smell him or her. Make sure you praise your cat with treats and lots of attention. Always use common sense and don't leave your cat alone with your baby, or any young children.

Q: When can my cat get its first rabies vaccination?
A: Cats can get their first vaccination when they are 12 to 16 weeks old.

(Provided by the Humane Society of the United States)

Hi, I'm Liz Barton and for over four years now, almost everyone I know turns to me the 'cat wrangler' for advice whenever their cats take a walk on the wild side. The truth is I get a kick out of helping other cat lovers build wonderful relationships with their cats by using my training methods.

So I decided to take all the tips, tricks, and advice I learned and "compress" it into a sanity saving resource for anyone battling bad cat behavior. The exciting results is the ebook
Cat Secrets Revealed!

The Orca Whale Cat Scratcher + Lounger is specially contoured for comfort. Your cat will enjoy playing, napping and scratching here! Cats love corrugated scratchers because the texture is similar to that of real bark. Plus, the whale's belly is great place to hide treats and toys.

Made from 30% recycled materials in a certified organic processing facility in the USA. 100% recylable.

Dimensions: 22"l x 9"w x 6"h

This decorative litter box cover is a clever way to hide a litter pan... in plain sight!

Made of durable "Rhino-wicker" that won't absorb fluids or odors and is easily cleaned with just soap and water.

Feline urinary tract problems may be easily remedied, but can continually reoccur if changes are not made to the cat's diet. One major problem is that cats are reluctant to drink water. Because they aren't receiving enough liquid, their bladders are not flushed out frequently enough to remove bacteria and minerals that can gather in the bladder. These bacteria and minerals then cause various disorders in the cat's urinary tract.

As the owner, you play an important role in diagnosing urinary disorders in your cat. You should have a general idea about your cat's normal litter box routine and behavior. Then, if your cat changes their routine (goes to the litter box more frequently or less frequently), you can inform the veterinarian of the differences. Knowing your cat's routine is particularly important because in many cases their behavioral changes are used to help the veterinarian narrow down what type of disorder your feline may have.

Felines diagnosed with any one of the disorders listed below usually have similar symptoms. The causes of the various urinary disorders listed below are mostly undetermined. Ash, an inorganic mineral residue found in cat foods, was once thought to be the main cause of urinary disorders in cats but now some veterinarians believe it is the high amounts of magnesium that are causing the urinary problems. However, research is still being done to determine what elements are causing urinary tract problems in felines.

Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disorder (FLUTD): also known as Feline Cystitis; the inflammation of the bladder and formation of crystals in the urine; often the cause is unknown or indeterminable; signs include frequent licking of genitals (males), frequent urination, urinating outside the litter box, blood in urine, and difficulty urinating.

Urolith (bladder stones): caused by the crystallization of minerals (ammonia, magnesium, phosphorus, and calcium); symptoms include straining to urinate, blood in urine, and frequently urinating in small amounts; two types of stones are struvite (the cause of almost half the cases of bladder stones) or calcium oxalate; treatment by veterinarian involves dissolving the stones.

Urethral Obstruction: cat's with obstruction should be taken to the veterinarian immediately; usually cat will display problems when the day before they were fine; more likely in males because of their long, narrow urethra; causes include urethral plugs (composed of minerals, cellular debris, and protein); acidity of urine is key in breaking up urethral plugs;

Bacterial Urinary Tract Infection: more common in dogs than in cats, but is a problem for some felines; the presence of bacteria, which can come from inside or outside the body, in the bladder;

Incontinence: the involuntary passing of urine; caused by urinary infections, Ectopic Ureter, lack of muscle control, or spinal cord diseases; signs include dribbling urine while laying down, after standing, or at inappropriate times.

If your cat is prone to having urinary problems, the best solution is to change their diet and begin administering medications that will improve their urinary tract. Give your feline foods that are low in magnesium, ammonia, and phosphorous; also, make sure your cat is drinking more water to help clean out their bladder. Pills are available for urinary problems but cats often will not swallow a pill. Therefore, you should use medication that comes in a powder, liquid, or other non-pill form that can be administered with their food or water. If you are aware that your cat is prone to urinary disorders, you should make an effort to improve their diet and water intake and give them the proper medicines to prevent the problem.

Peace and harmony at feeding time may be a lot to ask for, but this hand painted Ying Yang cat bowl might help!

Size: 2.5" High x 6" Diameter
Holds approximately 2.5 cups

Planning a trip with your favourite feline? Both of you can travel in style with this Jet Set pet carrier. It's incredibly versatile and built to last!

When I was growing up, I almost always had a cat. Back then, a cat was just a replaceable "thing" to most people, and if one got run over, killed by the neighbor's dog, poisoned, or just disappeared, there was always another cat to be found. I loved each of the cats and kittens that I had - but there were lots of them, one after another, because a cat was, well, just a thing. Most veterinary procedures were viewed as an unnecessary expense, because the cat (and kittens) usually lived outside all the time and if it disappeared, well, there were plenty more where that one came from.

Fortunately, attitudes have changed over time. These days many people recognize that animals should not be treated as a disposable possession. Pets are vaccinated, fed the best foods, kept safely inside, pampered, and loved. Much of the time they are treated as a member of the family. Certainly, I've gotten wiser as I've gotten older, and my cats have benefited from that.

Unfortunately, one of the side effects of people bringing cats indoors has been a trend toward having them declawed for their owner's personal comfort. It's done to preserve that beautiful sofa in the living room, or because the kitten looked down at the owner from the curtain rod a couple of times. I'm concerned that people think - because declawing is apparently such a common practice - that it is a good and safe and reasonable thing to do.

Declawing a cat is not a good or safe or reasonable thing to do!

Look down at your hands and imagine having your fingertips, up to the first knuckle, being cut off. THAT is what happens when a cat is declawed!

Declawing is not just simply removing what you see - the claw. Declawing is multiple amputations. Motor and sensory nerves are cut, damaged, destroyed. While cats can go home safely the same day from most surgical procedures, vets usually recommend that a declawed cat remain overnight at their facility because of the possibility of bleeding to death.

Recovery from the surgery is typically slow and always painful (how could it NOT be painful??). Since cats walk on their toes, this procedure can hinder the sensations and enjoyment involved in walking, running, springing, climbing, and stretching in the future. Declawing can traumatize your cat and change his temperament forever - he may become untrusting, fearful, a biter or a hider. He can no longer defend himself as he was intended to be able to do ("but he's an inside cat so he doesn't need to defend himself" is a rationalization, not a reason!). If the surgery isn't done correctly, your cat may literally be crippled for the rest of his life, or you may have to pay a second fee to have the problems corrected.

Please know this: With a little work, you CAN train your cat to use a scratching post and preserve that beautiful sofa and lace curtains.

If you want to do more reading about declawing and alternatives, please visit these excellent sites:

Clawed for Life (Pawprints and Purrs)
Declawing Cats: Issues and Alternatives (Amby's Cat Information Site)
Don't Amputate! Educate! (Lisaviolet's Cathouse)

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CatStuff: http://www.xmission.com/~emailbox/catstuff.htm

Photo by Lisa Solonynko

Choosing a scratching post for your cat is an important consideration. Cats generally prefer to be able to fully stretch, so a tall post (24-32") works best. Scratching posts are made with an assortment of materials: typically, carpet, sisal rope or sisal mesh fabric, cedar, or corrugated cardboard.

Some scratching posts allow the cat to scratch horizontally, or at an angle. Scratching is one of your cat's most ingrained instincts. Keep a scratching post near where the cat usually sleeps or, if he has already picked out a corner of your sofa, keep it next to that chosen spot. You may need to train your cat to use his scratching post. Do not pick him up and put his paws on the scratching post (that will only make him want to avoid it). Make the scratching post appealing to him: rub catnip on it or mist it with catnip spray; drape a heavy string (a long leather shoelace works great) over it and wiggle it to catch his interest; put treats on the very top.

Important: Invest in a scratching post that is 24" or 30" tall, with a sturdy base - your cat may be using the arm of the sofa because he can stretch higher than his scratching post will allow. Most of the ones you will find at the store are only 18" high so you may need to visit a pet supply store.

The best scratching post, in my opinion, is made of rough sisal mesh fabric (NOT the rope, a weave!). It's tall (29 inches), doesn't fall over, doesn't wobble, and doesn't slide across the floor. And, of course, the best part: all our cats love it. You can buy rough sisal fabric from rug manufacturers (eBay is a good place to look) and make your own scratching post, or you can buy it ready-made. We bought ours from TopCat Sisal Products.

A few cats don't like scratching on a vertical post, but will scratch willingly on a flat scratching pad. If your cat prefers a flat surface, you can either buy one of the cardboard scratching boxes (typically available from mail order or pet stores), or buy a scrap of plywood and a carpet remnant, large enough to fold around onto the back of the plywood. Cut the corners on an angle, fold the carpet remnant over the wood, and tack the carpet on using carpet tacks or heavy-duty staples.

Sometimes changing to a scratching post that is covered with sisal rope or a different texture will kindle his interest in the post, as well.

Other solutions: If he's scratching wood furniture, rub strong-smelling furniture polish into it. For sofa and chair sides, cover the edges of the sofa with heavy plastic (available at your local fabric store - typically used to cover footstools or protect tablecloths - you can buy twist-pins while you're there to hold the place neatly in place) or aluminum foil (use velcro or double-stick tape to hold in place). Or spray a cloth thoroughly with one of the sprays formulated for keeping a cat off the furniture, and pin it to the sofa, chair, or your speakers (don't spray directly onto the furniture). Or, put strips of self-adhesive velcro (loop side out) on the favored scratching spots. If all else fails, everytime you see him actively clawing the furniture, spray him lightly from a bottle of water (do this only when he is actually scratching, not when he is approaching or leaving the furniture).

Remember that scratching is a normal behavior - you must provide your cat with an acceptable way to do that, before you can dissuade him from scratching your furniture. Please note that declawing is the equivalent of cutting off your finger up to the first knuckle. There can be serious physical and psychological effects.

Dr. Melissa Tschegg, DVM resides in the State of Florida and is a graduate of the University of Missouri's College of Veterinary Medicine. Dr. Melissa is a practicing veterinarian and is active in both clinical and surgical settings.

Dr. Melissa's life long goal is to provide pets with the best health and life possible and is an active member of the Pet Nutrition Products team. Dr. Melissa believes in a balance of proper nutrition and supplementation, regular exercise, proper grooming and regular veterinarian care at all stages of a pets life to maximize their overall health and well being.

You're probably thinking, "How hard can it be? Cats can take care of themselves." But think again. Living with a cat may not involve much work, but it doesn't mean a total hands-off policy either.

KEEP YOUR CAT INDOORS

When most people hear the words "animal nuisance," they tend to think of dogs. But cats are often just as bad. When allowed to roam, they can get into garbage cans, defecate in flowerbeds and sandboxes, cause traffic accidents, and contribute to pet overpopulation. In addition, they can have a devastating effect on local wildlife, killing dozens, even hundreds of songbirds and small mammals every year.

Of course, the most important reason to keep your cat inside is for his/her own safety. Unlike dogs, cats don't need much space to exercise and a litter box will meet those "other" needs just fine. In other words, cats don't need to go out and face disease, catfights, dogfights, poisons, parasites, cruel people and the biggest cat killer of all, traffic.

Cats who live indoors from the start will never have the urge to roam around outside. Even cats that've previously been indoor/outdoor pets can be trained to accept being inside all the time.

Keeping cats happy inside is simply a matter of creating a healthy and stimulating indoor environment. Some good ideas are: giving your cat toys that feel furry and feathery or have catnip inside, providing him with a scratching post at least two feet high, planting pots of indoor greens for him to chew on, adopting another animal to keep him company, and most importantly, playing games and spending time with your companion.

ONE-TIME SURGERY, A LIFETIME BENEFIT

Spaying and neutering are words you're probably familiar with. What you may not know is that these procedures are the most essential part of being a responsible pet owner.

To spay your female cat is to have her ovaries and uterus surgically removed. To neuter your male cat is to have his testicles removed. The result of both operations is that your pet will no longer be able to bring more homeless animals into the world. That is significant indeed when you consider the fact that nearly eight million dogs and cats have to be humanely destroyed each year for lack of good homes.

Spaying and neutering are also better for the health of your pet. Spaying eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the incidence of breast cancer, particularly when your cat is spayed before her first estrous cycle. Neutering reduces the incidence of prostate cancer and prostate disorders. Neutered cats are also less likely to spray and mark territory. Spayed cats will no longer go through the annoying heat cycles. To top it all off, in addition to living longer and healthier lives, cats that are spayed or neutered make better and more affectionate companions.

Spaying or neutering is a one-time surgery with a one-time cost. However, both procedures offer a lifetime of benefits. When it comes right down to it, if you can't afford to have your cat spayed or neutered, then you can't afford to have a cat.

COLLAR AND TAG YOUR CAT

No matter how careful cat owners are, there's always the chance their companion may slip out of the door and become lost. If that happened to your cat, would he/she be protected by a collar and identification tag?

An ID tag is a lost cat's ticket home. The tag should include your address as well as daytime and evening telephone numbers. It should be attached to a collar of the breakaway variety so that the cat can escape if the collar becomes snagged. The shelter should have more information about where you can obtain a cat collar and a tag.



KEEP YOUR CAT HEALTHY

Cats, like their canine counterparts, require basic care to stay healthy and happy. A regular nutritionally balanced diet is as important for your cat as it is for you. Shelter personnel or your own veterinarian can guide you in choosing an adequate feeding program for your cat.

If you don't have a veterinarian, it is a good idea to establish a rapport with one soon after you adopt a cat. The shelter may provide a list of local vets, or you can ask a pet owner friend for a referral. Keep your feline companion up-to-date on his/her shots, and maintain a regular examination schedule.

A LIFETIME COMMITMENT

Beyond those essentials, the rest should come naturally. You can look forward to many years of companionship with your four-footed friend. Remember that a pet is your responsibility to love and care for from the day he/she arrives until the day he/she dies. It's up to you to provide him/her with a lifetime guarantee.

(Provided by the Humane Society of the United States)

Cats are just full of personality, so why shouldn't their collars reflect their fun loving nature!

These bright and colorful cat collars have vibrant ribbon sewn securely onto soft webbing.

The buckle on the breakaway collar is designed to release should the collar become snagged.

These breakaway safety collars are fully adjustable, machine washable, and are fun to wear!

Size:
One size fits all.
7.5" - 11" (0.5" Wide)

Did you know that catnip can help you de-stress your cat? Two thirds of the feline population possess an inherited gene which is responsible for producing the classic feline reaction to catnip.

The 'catnip effect'is caused by a volatile oil in the stems and leaves containing the chemical Nepetalactone.This chemical appears to minimize a cat's inhibition. It creates a feeling of euphoria that can last for about fifteen minutes. However,catnip is very safe for cats,with no side effects, and is not addictive at all. Overuse of catnip,though,can cause a cat to eventually become immune to the effects.

The "catnip effect"

When a responsive cat comes into contact with catnip,she will sniff it,lick it,roll in it, bite it and rub her head and chin against it repeatedly, purring, growling or meowing, and even leaping about. Many of these movements imitate those seen when a cat is in heat, leading to one theory that catnip is a female feline aphrodisiac.However,the fact that male and female cats react in the same way to catnip casts doubt on this.

Using catnip to improve behavior problems

1. Catnip is very good at relieving stress and tension. This makes it a very useful tool in dealing with stressful situations you may have to place your cat in. Examples of this would be taking your cat in the car with you, moving house, or perhaps having company in the house that frightens your kitty ( like small children when your pet is unused to them) Catnip will help in any situation where your cat is uneasy.

2. Catnip can be used to help a very timid or frightened cat become more confident. You may be bringing home a new timid cat or perhaps have rescued a scared one from a cat rescue shelter, catnip will almost always help them to react in a more positive and friendly way. It will be easier to get them to play with you which is a great start to making them feel at home with you and less anxious.

3. If you are trying to encourage a cat to play more and be more active,(perhaps after an illness) try some toys containing catnip. Cat toys containing fresh catnip are more effective than ones which have been around for a while. The fresher the catnip, the more the reaction.

4. If you have more than one cat in your home be careful not to introduce catnip to them all at the same time. Some males may have a tendency to cross the line from friendly play to dominant aggression while they are under the influence of catnip.By keeping them separated, you can assess the effects of catnip on each one and avoid any possible confrontations. If they react in a friendly manner, then they can all play with catnip together.

To conclude, remember not to overuse catnip or the effects will eventually diminish as your kitty becomes immune. Catnip is easy to grow, so use fresh catnip in catnip toys as much as possible. Although,even after a catnip toy has lost the catnip odour, cats will still play with them, but more from habit. Catnip is a herb which is harmless and non-addictive to cats, both wild and domesticated.

Find the best tips on using catnip to improve your cats behavior by visiting www.all-about-cat-care.com

Article Source: http://www.articlecube.com

You'll love the feel of these Refillable Catnip Furry Friends as much as your cat does!

Soft and beautifully made, these tiny plush creatures have a velcro fastening on the back that opens up for a sachet of catnip to drive your cat wild!

Two catnip packets are included with each toy, the hardest part is choosing which one to buy.
Size: Approx 3.5" long
Type: Lamb, Frog, Duckie, Squirrel