How To Make A New Collar

You can make any number of collar styles to go with the "basic" dress or blouse store bought clothing pattern - the trick is simply to know where to start.  In this tutorial we'll show you how to add a roll collar to your basic blouse / dress pattern.  Just for the sake of ease in doing your first pattern collar change, we'll assume that your dress / blouse pattern has a zipper in the back.

The first step in changing any pattern is to make any changes to the bodice first.  In this case we're going to add a little bit of extra room to the front and back neckline for the collar. 

1.  Measure over 3/8" along the front bodice neckline and make a mark. (The front is ALWAYS indicated by the small triangle).  Draw in the new front neckline curve as shown.

2.  Measure over 3/8" along the back bodice neckline and make a mark.  (The back is ALWAYS indicated by a small circle in our pattern makeover classes).  Draw in the new back neckline curve as shown.

One thing to remember when changing the neckline for new collars is that the small triangle (front marking) and small circle (back marking) are not used as notches or a means to match the collar front and back, but are used only to indicate the front and back and to figure the length of the front and back in order to make the new collar.

DRAWING THE COLLAR

The front and back neck measurements (triangle and circle) are figured according to the measurement of the front and back of YOUR PATTERN, so in all cases, use the pattern's measurements when drawing the collar.

1.  As stated above, measure the newly drawn front and back necklines (the triangle area and circle area).  Draw a horizontal line to equal the length you just measured. 

2.  On the right hand side of the horizontal line, square the line and draw a vertical line 2 3/4" high.  Draw the upper horizontal line and the left hand side vertical lines to complete the collar. 

3.  Mark "fold" along the right hand vertical line.  When cutting the fabric, cut ONE of the pattern piece, on the fold of the material, with the fold being on a diagonal line.  Cut interfacing the same size as the collar.

1.  If using iron-on interfacing, press it to the wrong side of the collar.  Fold the collar in half lengthwise, right sides together, and pin the side edges.  Sew both edges.

2.  Staystitch the neckline of the garment to prevent stretching (A).  Clip into the neckline at one inch intervals which will permit the collar to fit smoothly onto the garment.  Cut carefully so you don't cut through the stitching line.

3.  With right sides together, pin the edge of the collar to the garment (B).  Stitch the seam and backstitch at each end to secure the stitching.

4.  Press  the seam (C) up towards the collar.  Fold under the facing from the upper part (D) and pin in place.  Stitch the collar at the neckline, removing the pins as you sew.

5.  Look back at the collar pattern and notice the dashed lines in the middle of the collar -- those dashed lines indicate the "roll" of the roll collar.  After doing the sewing process, roll the collar on the garment -- or if you wish to have a taller standing collar, don't do the roll.  The back closure of the roll collar can be completed by attaching a hook and eye fastener to the ends of the collar, so that the collar ends meet when fastened.

You can see how easy it is to make a collar for the basic blouse/dress.  If you would like to learn how to make NINE different collars to add to the basic blouse/dress, jump on down to the "How To Make Collars" classes, as indicated below.  There are two collar classes available - one for the regular S-XL size ranges, and the Full Figure class for those who are 1X - 8X size ranges.

 PC-103 How To Make Collars Class - $7.95

PCF-103 How To Make Collars Class - $7.95
(Full Figure)

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