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Many dogs bark more frequently than their owners would like. In some cases barking is very persistent because it's easy for the dog to do and is even self-rewarding. Some dogs have been accidentally trained to be persistent barkers because they've learned that if they bark long enough or loud enough, eventually they'll get what they want. You won't be able to eliminate barking, because it's normal for dogs to bark, but with many barkers the problem can be reduced to a more tolerable level.

The first step in managing a barking problem is to determine the cause. Obviously barking is an attempt to communicate, but what is your dog trying to say? Here are some of the common reasons for barking and some of the things you can try to alleviate the problem.

Separation anxiety

This barking (which only occurs in the owner's absence and is often accompanied by destructive behavior and housesoiling) is the dog's way of telling you that he is anxious about your leaving him. It is fairly common in dogs who have experienced a change in their surroundings or routine. With some work these anxious animals can usually be trained to be more comfortable and calm in the owner's absence. The Gaines booklet, "The Dog Who Cannot Be Left Alone", outlines a program for treating separation anxiety, or you may want to consult a qualified animal behaviorist for assistance.

Fear

Dogs may bark as a response to things that frighten them, often noises such as thunderstorms, firecrackers, garbage trucks, etc. If repeatedly frightened in the yard, they may bark (usually with ears back and tail down) even in the absence of the sound because the yard itself has become a scary place to be. Try a program of desensitization and counter conditioning such as suggested in the booklet, " Fear of Thunder & Other Loud Noises ".

Territorial/Protective Behavior

Dogs may bark to warn away those they consider intruders in or near their territory, and they keep doing it because it's so successful - I barked, the other dog left, I barked, the bicyclist left, I barked, the delivery person left, et cetera. With the help of a variety of friends whom your dog would normally bark at, you can set up a program of gradually turning intruders into friends by rewarding your dog for remaining quiet as the person approaches nearer (using bits of a really special food).

The idea is to teach your dog to anticipate that people approaching are a cue that great treats will follow if she stays quiet. Indoor barking at visitors can be discouraged by a program of distraction (give him a command like 'sit" and reward with lots of treats and attention when he's quiet).

Boredom and Lonliness

Dogs are intelligent and social creatures, and barking may be a reaction to be isolated. The best cures are spending more time with your dog and giving her the mental and physical exercise she needs to feel content when you can't be around. Leaving her attractive objects like chew toys, large rubber balls, or toys with food stuffed inside may help, but a long, vigorous walk or game of fetch followed by a review of obedience routines may do more to keep her happy when you leave.

There's no quick fix for barking, and a "bark collar" should never be used unless suggested by a qualified animal behaviorist. They can make the problem worse when used on a dog who is barking due to separation anxiety or other types of fearful behavior.

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Chewing, playing, exploring, and investigating their environment are normal behaviors for dogs - especially puppies! However, these normal behaviors can result in destruction of household property, which can become a serious and frustrating problem for owners. In fact, destructive behavior is one of the most commonly reported behavior problems in dogs. DOGS DO NOT PARTICIPATE IN DESTRUCTIVE ACTIVITIES OUT OF SPITE OR REVENGE! Dogs often behave destructively to relieve anxiety or as an outlet for excess energy. While people may exercise, chew on their nails or have a drink to relieve tension, dogs tend to chew, dig, lick excessively, pace or housesoil when anxious. Because destructive behavior has many potential causes, a careful analysis of the dog's history and environment is necessary to help identify the cause of the problem so that effective behavior modification techniques can be recommended. The purpose of this handout is to explain...

Common Causes of Destructive Behavior

Teething:

When teething, puppies' gums may be painful. Chewing appears to help relieve the discomfort of teething. The behavior usually ceases after permanent teeth appear.

Seperation Anxiety:

This is one of the most common causes of destructive behavior in dogs, particularly in those obtained from shelters or found as strays. Dogs with separation anxiety tend to display behaviors which reflect a strong attachment to their owners - following owners from room to room, displaying almost frantic greeting behaviors, and reacting to owners' preparation to leave the house. Factors which can precipitate a separation anxiety problem include a change in the family's schedule which results in the dog being left alone more often, a move to a new house, the death or loss of another family pet, or a period at a boarding kennel. Separation anxiety may be manifested by excessive vocalizations or housesoiling, along with destructive behavior. THESE BEHAVIORS ARE NOT MOTIVATED BY SPITE OR REVENGE, BUT BY ANXIETY, AND PUNISHMENT WILL MAKE THE PROBLEM WORSE! Separation anxiety can be resolved using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques under the supervision of a professional animal behaviorist.

Fears and Phobias:

Fearful responses to thunderstorms and loud noises often involve escape attempts which result in destructive behavior. In these cases, doors, doorframes, window trim and screens and walls are often damaged. These problems can be especially dangerous, because excessively fearful dogs may injure themselves attempting to break through windows or doors to escape a feared situation.

Social Isolation or Boredom:

If dogs do not receive adequate opportunities for social interaction with their owners or if their environment is relatively barren, without playmates or toys, they may entertain themselves by engaging in activities which inadvertently result in destruction of property.

Attention-getting Behavior:

Without realizing it, owners may pay the most attention to their dogs when they are misbehaving. Dogs which do not receive attention and reinforcement for appropriate behavior, may show destructive behavior when owners are present, as a way to attract attention - even if the attention is "negative" such as verbal scolding.

Play Behavior:

Normal play behavior can often result in destructive behavior, and often involves digging or chewing, shredding, and shaking of toy-like objects such as shoes, socks or paper objects. This is very common in young dogs and often occurs when the dog is unsupervised or does not have sufficient outlets for appropriate play behavior.

Investigative Behavior:

Dogs may inadvertently damage items in their environment when they are exploring or investigating. Dogs investigate objects by pawing at them and exploring them with their mouths. Many dogs, especially retrievers and young animals, also like to fetch and carry objects. Novel or unfamiliar objects are often damaged in this manner, especially when dogs are left unsupervised for long time periods.

Inappropriate Punishment:

Excessive punishment or punishment after the fact for any misbehavior may elicit anxiety associated with the presence of the owner. Thus, anticipation of the owner's return or arrival increases the dog's anxiety level, and may result in destructive behavior to relieve the anxiety.

Medical Problems:

Upper gastrointestinal irritation, dental or gum pain may cause destructive chewing in adult dogs. Some diseases may cause excessive hunger (polyphagia), or eating of non-food items (pica). Consult your veterinarian if you suspect these problems.

Inconsistent Feeding Routines:

A hungry dog may go on a foraging spree, and destroy the house searching for food.

Barrier Frustrations:

Some dogs become anxious, and therefore destructive, when confined in small areas such as crates (flight kennels) or small rooms (bathroom, laundry room). This may be associated with separation anxiety.

Predatory Behavior:

If dogs are attempting to pursue rodents underneath floorboards or behind walls, destructive behavior may result.

As you can see from this discussion, destructive behavior has many potential causes, and it should be clear why the cause of the behavior must be determined if the problem is to be dealt with effectively. Because destructive behavior is so common, it is reasonable to conclude that all dog owners should be prepared to lose something of value due to their dog's destructive behavior! This is part of the experience of owning a dog! Certainly persistent and severe destructive behavior problems need to be resolved, for both the dog's as well as the owner's sake, but occasional destructive behavior should be put in perspective. Punishment alone rarely is effective in resolving destructive behavior problems and can make them worse. Punishment after the fact is NEVER appropriate. When punishment is indicated, the goal is NOT to punish the animal, but the behavior. This can never be accomplished with punishment after the fact.

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Look for trainers who rely on teaching methods that use positive reinforcement for good behavior rather than punishment for unacceptable behavior.

Observe an obedience class without your dog. Are the dogs and people having a good time? Talk with a few participants and see if they are comfortable with the trainer's methods. If someone won't let you sit in, don't enroll.

Don't allow trainers to work your dog unless they tell you first exactly what they plan to do.

Don't be afraid to tell a trainer to stop if s/he is doing something to your dog you don't like.

If a trainer tells you to do something that you don't feel good about, don't do it! Don't be intimidated, bullied or shamed into doing something that you believe is not in your dog's best interest.

Avoid trainers who offer guarantees about results. That trainer is either ignoring or doesn't understand the complexity of animal behavior.

Avoid trainers who object to using food as a training reward. Food is an acceptable positive reinforcement training tool.

Avoid trainers who won't let you use any training collar other than a choke chain or pinch collar. Head collars are humane alternatives to choke chains and pinch collars.

Look for trainers who treat both people and dogs with respect, rather than an "I'm the boss" attitude.

And last, but certainly not least, have fun while training your pet!

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While it won't heal those punctures on your hands and ankles any faster, it may be comforting to know that if your puppy is biting, you're not alone. In fact, mouthing and biting are normal (but not desirable) behaviors and essentially all puppies will bite. The good news is that as your puppy gets older much of the nipping and mouthing will disappear, particularly if you don't encourage it through aggressive play. Fortunately, most biting done by puppies is playful and there are several ways you can discourage your puppy from choosing you as a target.

Avoid aggressive play.

Wrestling, "boxing" at the puppy's mouth with your hands and tug-of-war will get your puppy excited and teach her that hands are appropriate chew toys. Redirect the puppy to appropriate toys. Virtually all puppies will need to chew on something, so make sure there are plenty of acceptable chew toys available. If your puppy attacks your hand, ankle, or clothing, offer him a favorite toy instead. When he goes for the toy, give him lots of praise and attention.

Practice the high yip.

When play between puppies gets too rough, the one being bitten will give a high-pitched, piercing yip. This will startle most puppies and cause them to stop biting for a moment. You can mimic the high yip, then withdraw your hand and substitute something else. Keep your fingers curled. Many puppies will not bite at a closed hand as they will an open hand.

Use a Gentle Leader collar.

The Gentle Leader gives you an effective way to control a puppy's head and mouth. If your puppy starts to go for a hand, pull gently and steadily on the lead. As soon as he stops, release the pressure and praise him.

Use time-out.

If your puppy gets too riled up, won't listen to you, and immediately starts to bite again after you've tried some other approaches, then isolating her for a brief period may be needed.

Supervise play between kids and puppies

Many children are not able to use these techniques on their own and will need your help. Puppies learn quickly and may discover that young children can be intimidated by rough play and biting. Kids also like to do things that get puppies overexcited. Adult supervision will be needed until the puppy and the child learn how to play appropriately.

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Canine rivalry refers to repeated conflicts between dogs in the same household. Initially, dogs may only snarl, growl, or snap, without injuring each other. However, if the conflict is handled inappropriately, it may intensify into prolonged bouts of dangerous fighting which may result in one or both dogs being injured. Although these problems may appear to have arisen "out of the blue", there are usually signs and indications in the interactions between the dogs and the owners that promote and predict the occurrence of inter-dog fighting. Conflicts can occur between any animals, but they are more likely to occur between males, and be more likely to begin during times of change (see below).

In order to explain this rivalry or conflict, it is important to understand some basics of canine social systems. Animals which live in social groups (including domestic dogs and wolves, the dog's closest ancestor), establish a social structure, called a dominance hierarchy, within the group. This dominance hierarchy or "pecking order" serves to maintain order, reduce conflict, and promote cooperation among pack members. This social order must be established and maintained with a minimum of combat in order to prevent pack members from being injured.

This is accomplished by a variety of subtle signals and ritualized behaviors such as vocalizations, body postures and maneuvers, and eye contact. A dominant dog will stand erect, lean forward, hold its ears and tail up, stare directly at subordinate animals, and may bare its teeth and growl. A submissive animal will do just the opposite - bow or crouch down, tuck its tail, hold its ears flat, and will avoid eye contact. It may display a submissive "grin" or "smile", with the lips pulled back exposing the front and back teeth. A very submissive animal will roll over on its back, expose its abdomen, and may even urinate. Without a dominance hierarchy, these social cues are not respected and full-scale fighting results.

A position within the dominance hierarchy will be established by each member of the group, based on the outcomes of the interactions between itself and other pack members. The more dominant animals can control access to valued items such as food, denning sites, and mates. For domestic dogs, valued items might be food, toys, sleeping or resting places, and attention from the owner. Although most canine dominance hierarchies are linear (A is dominant over B who is dominant over C), the rankings may be different in different contexts (one dog may control food, while another may control the resting places), and they may change over time.

Conflicts or fights between household dogs usually develop when an instability in the hierarchy exists, and the ranking or social position of each dog is not clear.

This is most likely to occur when:

owners have attempted to treat both dogs equally
owners have interrupted or interfered with the dominant dog's ability to control the preferred items in its environment at the expense of the other dog (e.g. taking toys away, pushing in to be petted, rushing through the door first)
owners have not allowed the dogs to express the signals and ritualized behavior which establish dominance
a new animal has been introduced into the house
a resident animal has died or no longer lives in the house
a resident animal is re-introduced after an absence
a young, subordinate dog reaches sexual maturity
a dominant dog ages and cannot maintain its dominant status.

Resolving Canine Rivalry

Because resolving rivalry problems requires understanding and managing the dogs' somewhat complex social behaviors, it is often necessary for owners to obtain assistance from a professional animal behaviorist.Animal behaviorists are trained to observe, interpret, and modify behavior. Rivalry and fighting problems are potentially dangerous situations, as not only can the dogs be severely injured, but owners can also be hurt if they become the object of the redirected aggression when the dogs are fighting.

The main goals in working with rivalry problems are:

to determine each dog's dominance status relative to each other.This ranking is based on the behavior of the dogs, and NOT what ranking the owners prefer.
to support the status of the dominant dog, as determined above
to allow one or more dogs to achieve subordinate status by not treating the dogs equally or intervening to elevate the subordinate dog to a dominant position
to elicit and reinforce non-aggressive behaviors using counter conditioning and desensitization techniques.

Procedures to achieve these goals must be designed and tailored to specifically meet the needs of the individual case. All owners should be aware that if they respond to this type of problem inappropriately, they run the risk of intensifying the problem, and potentially causing injury to either themselves, their dogs, or both. If the dogs involved are intact males or females, they should both be neutered or spayed. Punishment by itself WILL NOT solve the problem and has the great potential to escalate the fighting. We encourage you to first seek assistance from your veterinarian regarding spaying and neutering, evaluating the health status of your dogs, and for a referral to a professional animal behaviorist. Rivalry and fighting problems can be resolved and you and your dogs can again live together in peace

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Submissive urination occurs when a puppy feels threatened, such as when she is being punished or verbally scolded, or when someone is reaching for her from a dominant posture (direct eye contact, leaning forward over the puppy, direct head-on approach). Excitement urination occurs most often during greetings and play.

It may be submissive/excitement urination if...

Urination occurs during greetings, when the puppy is excited, when puppy is being scolded, reached for, or while playing
Urination is accompanied by either submissive or fearful postures (crouching, rolling over on the back, ears back, tail tucked)
The puppy is timid or shy
There is a history of scolding or punishment after the fact

Submissive and excitement urination may resolve on their own as the puppy matures, and if they are not reinforced with inadvertent attention, or become worse through punishment. Puppies who urinate submissively should be approached with non-threatening postures, such as avoiding eye contact, not leaning out over the puppy, not reaching out over puppy's head, and presenting the side rather than the front of the person's body to the puppy. The puppy can also be reinforced with praise and treats for coming and sitting without acting submissive. If the problem occurs during greetings, then these should be kept low-key. Completely ignoring puppy for the first 5 to 10 minutes after coming home until puppy is calm may also help to prevent urination.

To help prevent or stop submissive/excitement urination...

Absolutely no punishment or scolding.
Keep greetings low-key; don't even look directly at the puppy - eye contact alone may provoke submissive urination.
Do not inadvertently reinforce puppy's behavior with attention when you come into the house or room.
Ignore the puppy until puppy is calm.
Once puppy is calm, squat down to the puppy's level rather than leaning over to pet the puppy, pet from under the chin, not the top of the head, approach the puppy from the side rather than head-on.
Quietly reward happy, alert and confident postures from the puppy. Use of food and quiet praise can be helpful.

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These two techniques are often used to change unwanted behavior in dogs and cats.Just as the term implies, counter conditioning means conditioning (training) an animal to display a behavior that is counter to (mutually exclusive of) an unacceptable behavior in response to a particular stimulus.For example, a dog cannot be trying to bite the letter carrier and at the same time greeting them in a friendly, excited manner.

Desensitization involves gradually exposing a pet to the situation, without provoking the unwanted reaction. If an animal is highly motivated to perform an undesirable behavior, and if that behavior is easily and quickly displayed, competing behaviors may be difficult to elicit. That's where the desensitization part of the process comes into play. Desensitization is the process of exposing an animal to a stimulus beginning at a very low intensity. So low that it does not result in the undesired behavior. For example, if a cat becomes fearful and hisses at visitors, then the first step would be to find a distance at which the cat does not hiss, growl, attempt to flee, or show other signs of fear. The stimulus intensity is then increased gradually (bringing the cat closer to people in the example), without eliciting the unwanted behavior.

Performed simultaneously, these techniques provide a way in which an animal can be gradually taught to show acceptable behavior in the face of a stimulus that used to elicit problem behavior. They are often used when working with different types of fearful and aggressive behaviors.

Counter conditioning and desensitization must be implemented very systematically. If the incremental increases are too large, or occur too quickly, the techniques will either not be effective, or may even make the problem worse. Implementing a counter conditioning and desensitization program requires some thought and planning.

1. Define the starting point. Ideally, a behavior modification program of this sort should be designed and carried out in such small steps that the problem behavior never occurs. This means all the stimuli that elicit the behavior must be identified and ways found to lower their intensity until your pet doesn't react to them.For example, if a cat becomes afraid if someone approaches closer than 6 feet, then the starting point would be a distance significantly greater than 6 feet. In order for these techniques to be most successful, your pet should not be put in any situation that triggers the problem behavior.

2. Define the dimensions or characteristics of the stimulus that influence your pet's response. For example, if we are working with a cat that is afraid of being picked up, we need to know which aspects of that process influence the cat's fear:

Is she more afraid of adults than children?
Is she more afraid of men than women?
Is she more afraid of a family member or someone she doesn't know?
Is she more afraid when someone moves fast or slow?
Is she more afraid in a particular room?
Is she more afraid if the person speaks to her or is silent?
Is she more afraid if someone is sitting or standing?

Some common factors to consider include location, loudness, distance, speed of movement, length of time near the other animal or person, response of the other animal or person, or body postures of an animal who induces fear or aggression.

3. Arrange these characteristics in order from least to most likely to produce a negative response. A counter conditioning and desensitization program needs to begin by using combinations of stimuli that are least likely to cause a fearful reaction. In our cat example above, perhaps the cat is least afraid of being handled by a familiar adult female who approaches slowly and speaks softly to her, while she's lying on the bed in the bedroom. She is most afraid of a nephew who runs up to her yelling while she's in the kitchen.

4. Always begin with the characteristics or dimensions that are least likely to elicit the problem behavior. We would begin with the easiest combination of characteristics of the situation, and gradually work up to the most difficult. If we find that this cat will be less afraid of a male child approaching slowly than an adult female approaching fast, then we know speed of approach is more critical than type of person. Thus, the working order on these two characteristics, from easiest to hardest, would be:

Adult female, slow approach
Male child, slow approach
Adult female, fast approach
Male child, fast approach

5. If necessary, devise ways to make each dimension less intense. If a dog is afraid of the sound of the hair dryer, the sound must be presented to the dog at a low (sub-threshold) intensity, one that does not provoke the fearful behavior. This could be done by turning the dryer on and off quickly before the dog showed fear, turning the hair dryer on in another room, covering the dryer with towels, etc.

6. Pair each level of each characteristic with a positive consequence, as long as the problem behavior is not displayed. At these sub-threshold intensities, the stimulus must be paired with something positive for your pet. In this way, the animal comes to associate good things happening in the situation rather than bad things. Alternative behaviors such as calmness and friendliness are then reinforced instead of fear, aggression, etc. being elicited. The reinforcement must be powerful. Good choices are food, especially favored treats, toys, or social reinforcements such as petting, attention, or praise. If food is used (and it's almost invariably helpful), it should be in very small pieces and be highly desired by your pet (cheese, hot dogs, or canned tuna often work well). You may need to experiment a little to see what food is the best motivator for your pet.

7. Do not progress to the next level until your pet is clearly anticipating the reinforcement. People commonly want to know how long they need to repeat each intensity level.This will depend entirely on your pet, who should be demonstrating that he is indeed expecting good things to happen. Perhaps he looks to you for a tidbit, or looks around for his toy. This should be in contrast to his previous reactions such as trembling, tensing up, or other fearful or aggressive responses.

8. Don't make all dimensions more intense at the same time. In our cat example above, notice that we increased the intensity with type of person, and subsequently increased the speed of approach. We did not try to do both at once by shifting from a slowly moving adult to a fast child.

9. Progress slowly. It is common for people to tell me, "I tried some of those ideas and they didn't work." Usually what has happened is that they tried to progress too fast, didn't take small incremental steps, or didn't use highly motivating rewards. Counter conditioning and desensitization take time and must be done very gradually. You will need to think through the steps you need to take. Rather than expecting progress in terms of leaps and bounds, look for small, incremental change. It can be very helpful to keep a log or record of your results, since day to day changes will not be very big.

An example of a somewhat simplified counter conditioning and desensitization program for a dog who displays fear-motivated aggression toward men could be:

1. Identify the point at which fearful or aggressive behavior is first elicited (e.g., when the man is 6 feet away and is approaching to pet the dog).
2. Begin the program with a situation the dog will tolerate without becoming aggressive or fearful (e.g., the man walks by at a distance of 7 feet, with non-threatening body postures, paying no attention to the dog).
3. Encourage the dog to assume a confident posture on a leash such as standing, walking, or sitting.
4. Offer a small food reward and/or toy to generate expectant, excited, non-fearful behavior.
5. Respond in an up-beat manner, petting, praising, and talking "happy talk" to the dog.
6. Conduct several sessions of a few minutes before making it any more difficult for the dog.
7. Instruct the man to stand 7 feet away and make a small arm motion ashough he was beginning to reach out and pet the dog.
8. Give the dog food and praise for non-aggressive, non-fearful behaviorhile this happens, also conducting a set of short sessions.
9. Practice this scenario until the dog is anticipating the food reward or the toy.
10. Slowly decrease the distance between the man and the dog, adding to the arm motion on such a gradual basis that fear or aggression is never elicited. Many repetitions with more than one individual may be required. A new step should not be taken until the dog is clearly anticipating the reward.

You may need to supplement the behavior modification program with other approaches, such as avoiding situations that provoke the problem, using a headcollar like the Gentle Leader collar, or treating your pet with anti-anxiety medication. Your veterinarian or an animal behaviorist can give you more information on these options.

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When adopting an adult dog, we hope you will remember that many formerly well-trained dogs are temporarily weakened in their housetraining habits by being housed in kennels for days, weeks, or even months. Though volunteer's exercise and play with the dogs at the Society, they are probably not taken out often enough to meet their elimination needs, so a period of retraining is in order. Please read the puppy training section of this sheet and treat your new dog just like a puppy for at least the first few days: watch him closely, take him outside frequently (especially upon awakening and after eating), and praise him for proper behavior. Since his body is already mature enough to wait for substantial intervals between eliminating, he should quickly fall into his former good habits once he is used to his new home. Just as with puppies, a regular feeding schedule will make retraining easier.

What about an "outdoor dog," one that has never been housetrained because he has always lived in an outside run or kennel? Adopters of these dogs tell us that they have had great success in housetraining them quickly, sometimes within a matter of days. But you do need to start from the beginning and follow the same procedure as for a puppy: observe closely, praise for success and confine to his bed during the night or when you are gone.

Our biggest challenge of all will be the housedog who had the misfortune to be owned by someone who neglected his responsibility to thoroughly housetrain his pet. You will have to resign yourself to a longer training process and be more vigilant and patient. It's possible that you may make a lot of progress but never achieve 100% reliability with some of these dogs. YOU may have to decide whether or not you think au occasional cleanup is a reasonable price to pay for giving a nice dog a second chance at life. We hope you'll decide that it is!

Housetraining Problems

If you have consistently followed a good training program and are still having house-soiling problems with your dog, you should consider investigating whether there are underlying causes that need to be addressed before your pet can become reliably housetrained. Suzanne Hetts, Ph.D., an animal behaviorist, suggests the following possible causes for house-soiling problems:

Medical problems - A urinary tract infection or an irritated bowel could be your pet's problem. Check with your veterinarian.

Submissive or nervous urination - Some dogs, especially when young, urinate (often accompanied by rolling on their back or side) to show submission or when excited, especially when greeting a returning owner. Various common sense tactics may help this problem: keeping greetings low key, allowing the dog out to empty his bladder before greeting, or even spreading a washable throw rug in the hall.

Fears - Frightened animals may lose control of their bowel or bladder. This is sometimes a problem with animals afraid of thunderstorms or other loud noises. A treatment program involving desensitization and counter conditioning is described in the free Gaines pamphlet "Fear of Thunder and Other Loud Noises" available at most veterinarians' offices and the Animal Humane Society. Or, you may wish to consult a qualified animal behaviorist.

Scent marking - Some dogs (primarily males, but occasionally females) deposit small amounts of urine to mark their territory. Neutering/spaying can eliminate or greatly reduce this behavior. Another Gaines pamphlet "Elimination Behavior Problems in Dogs" may be useful in difficult cases.

Separation anxiety - If the house soiling is done only and consistently when your dog is left alone, this may be the cause. It often occurs with other symptoms like destructive chewing or barking and can be treated by reducing the dog's anxiety. Another Gaines pamphlet "The Dog That Cannot Be Left Alone" may help, or you may want to consult a qualified animal behaviorist.

Once the underlying causes have been eliminated in these problem cases, the dog can be successfully housetrained like any other. Please be aware that punishment in these cases will very likely make the problem worse, rather than better (with the possible exception of some persistent scent markers where mild punishment combined with counter conditioning may be needed).

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It takes time, and it takes patience, but we sincerely hope you will put your best efforts into teaching your pet good toilet habits, since he will be sharing your house for the next 12-14 years! This leaflet outlines a humane housetraining program based on praise and prevention, not punishment. If followed carefully, it will result in a happy, well-trained dog.

If at all possible, train your puppy to go to the bathroom outside from the beginning rather than paper training. Your aim from the first day is to catch the puppy doing the right thing and give him the praise he deserves for doing that. He really does want to please you and get some loving attention, and he will learn very quickly that you seem truly thrilled with him when he eliminates behind the old lilac bush. The other side of the coin is that you will need to let him know that you are a whole lot less than thrilled when you catch him doing the same thing on the living room carpet, but don't go overboard: no hitting, no shaking, no rubbing his nose in the mess. These things not only don't help, they can make your puppy fearful and make training that much harder. When you catch your puppy urinating or defecating indoors, just say NO in a firm voice and take him outside at once. And that's all. Some people suggest startling a puppy caught in the act by something that he perceives as coming from the environment, like slapping the wall loudly with your palm or tossing a pillow at him, but that firm NO from the owner has worked well for millions of puppies.

One of the basic rules of the housetraining game is that if you don't see him do it, you don't scold him about it. When he's caught in the act, hears that emphatic NO, and is taken outside, he makes the connection that wetting on the Oriental rug was not a great idea. But if you drag him to a damp spot on the carpet hours (or even minutes) after the fact, he simply can't make the connection. When you find a spot like that, don't make a fuss and rush the dog outside; just accept the fact that you lost that round, clean it up, and forget it. For cleaning accidents, use one of the enzymatic cleaner's available at most pet supply stores or use diluted white vinegar in the last rinse to remove odors that might tempt him to use the same spot again.

Since your aim is to praise the puppy for doing right, it's important that you give him the chance to earn praise by anticipating his need to go outside. There are certain times when you can be almost certain your puppy will need to eliminate: always take him out after eating, when he wakes up in the morning or after a nap, and after a play session. Some puppies want to eliminate immediately after such activities, others some minutes later. You will soon learn your puppy's pattern. If you watch your puppy closely to learn what signals he gives before eliminating (sniffing, restlessness, circling) you will be able to get him outside soon enough to prevent accidents at other times as well

This program of prevention and praise requires you to keep an eye on your puppy. Some accidents are inevitable, but you just can't give him the run of the house and let him get used to making mistakes. Use a baby gate or even a light, 6-foot tether to keep him with you in the kitchen or family room where you can watch him.

Some people advocate the use of a crate in housetraining a puppy, and it can be a useful tool. But it can also be misused. A sleeping size crate takes advantage of a dog's natural instinct not to soil his "den" or sleeping quarters, a trait held over from his wolf ancestors. Since no one can watch a puppy every minute, a crate is useful for confining a small puppy for a short time while you run to the store or take a shower. A crate could also be properly used as a good sleeping place for an older puppy that is almost at the stage of making it through the night without a trip outdoors. (The crate will encourage him to wait, but place it in or near your bedroom so he can wake you if he really needs to be taken out.) However, placing a small puppy in a sleeping size crate for hours at a time is unfair. He cannot control his bowel and bladder for very long and is forced to dirty his bed and himself. If a small puppy must be left for more than brief periods, a far more humane practice is to prepare a pen (partition off part of a room or use an old baby playpen) with a sleeping area, a playing area, and a papered area where it is OK for him to eliminate.

You have probably noticed that we used the phrase "take him out" throughout this leaflet. Even if you have a fenced yard, it's important to take your puppy out to go to the bathroom If you just shove him out the door, you won't know if he has eliminated, and you're skipping that essential part of training: praise. In addition, he's going to get into the bad habit of eliminating just outside the door. It's best (for both your puppy and your lawn) to take him to a selected spot each time so that he gets used to the idea that he is expected to eliminate there. Some experts also advocate consistent use of a brief phrase like "do your business" to help your puppy understand you brought him out at 2:00 a m. in your pajamas because you thought he had to go to the bathroom, not because you wanted to play.

Canines are creatures of habit, and housetraining can go much more smoothly if your puppy is on a regular schedule, especially for feeding. A puppy who eats his meals at regularly scheduled times usually eliminates at fairly predictable times, making him a lot easier to train. Free choice feeding can make training a lot harder.

If your puppy continues to have accidents at a favorite spot, even though you have cleaned it thoroughly, make that spot unappealing by such methods as covering with a plastic carpet runner (pointy side up) or laying down a section of double-sided sticky tape.

Paper training is a method that is usually considered to be an intermediate step (except, perhaps, in the case of a very small dog in an apartment building). It may be necessary if the weather is too bitter to take a small puppy outdoors or if the owner cannot be home as much as needed for outdoor training. However, it adds an extra step to the training process and it may take longer for you to get to the final goal of a completely housetrained pet. When paper training, confine the puppy to a small room or part of a room, and put papers down over the entire area. Gradually remove the papers farthest from his favored spot for eliminating, always leaving a piece of soiled paper at that spot to encourage the puppy to return there. Proceed as you would with outdoor training: take the puppy to the paper when he shows signs of needing to eliminate, praise for proper performance, and scold with a firm NO when you catch him eliminating off the papers. When the puppy is more mature and able to go for longer intervals without eliminating, remove the inside papers, place a soiled paper at the chosen spot outside and take him out frequently, praising him for eliminating out-of-doors. The unfortunate thing about paper training is that the puppy may have a hard time understanding why it's no longer OK for him to eliminate in the house when he was praised for it before. Be patient with him and be sure the former paper spot has been cleaned thoroughly- to remove his smell. Please don't expect too much too soon. A three or four month old puppy cannot really be considered housetrained. He may know what you want, but his immature body will cause him to make mistakes These will decrease as his system matures, but it is not unusual for a dog who will be a good, well-trained adult to still have an occasional slip at eight or nine months, especially if you are gone longer than normal.

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Aggressive behavior is normal for dogs and cats -under certain circumstances. The degree to which an owner feels the need to manage this type of behavior varies depending on individual tolerance and the circumstance or environment where the behavior is displayed. Some people may consider all aggressive behavior to be intolerable while others may feel it's appropriate in certain situations.

Pets have a set of normal social behaviors that they use to resolve conflicts, and will resort to these if faced with a provocation, so the first rule is: "avoid provoking the behavior". Other behaviors though normal for the animal may still require management. For example, dogs from herding breeds will often try to chase bicycles and nip at the riders' heels. This is an unacceptable behavior but it would be inappropriate to punish the animal. In fact the second rule is: "don't punish the animal". Most dogs who are punished will either escalate their aggressive behavior or become fearful of the owner, or both.

Another factor that is sometimes overlooked is the health of the animal. An animal suffering from a medical condition will be more easily provoked into aggressive behavior, so the third rule is: "talk to your vet".

The above recommendations are given as a general guideline primarily to reduce the chance that people or other animals might be bitten. Other methods of managing behavior, including behavior modification programs, use of Gentle LeaderTM collars, prescription medications, and in some cases neutering, require the specific individual recommendations of appropriate professionals and may be explored by discussing the problem with AHS staff or your veterinarian.

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Many Animal Humane Society adopters have questions about the possibility of adding another dog to their household. "How will Duke react?" "Will the two of them get along?" "Is this going to work?" Quite frankly, it's hard to predict what success you'll have in adding a new dog to your household because there are such vast differences among the various breeds of dogs and between any two individuals even in the same breed. In addition, dogs have, to varying degrees, innate tendencies toward territoriality and dominance that can lead to problems when another dog enters the scene.

Perhaps this would be an appropriate place to make some remarks about dominance, since it is the single most important factor in determining what success you will have in introducing a new dog to your home. In order for two or more dogs to live peacefully together, they need to establish a dominance hierarchy (pecking order) which they all accept. Often the question of who is dominant is settled by a mere stare from one dog to another who averts his eyes and says, in effect, "OK, you can be the boss if you like," and it's over before the owner observes what happened.

In other cases, the issue of who will be dominant is not settled so easily and the two dogs will engage in more overt behaviors like placing their forepaws on the shoulders of the other animal or pressing the chin down on his back and shoulders. If the issue still is not settled, further aggression (growling, baring teeth, snapping, or outright fighting) is likely to occur.

Why do we need to know about dominance order?

Because it's important that the owner not interfere with the order that the dogs establish. Often caring dog owners will observe that one dog constantly takes precedence over the other and try to "make it up" to the subordinate animal by giving him preferential treatment. Don't. You need to support the order they establish rather than promote fighting by trying to make things equal.

Put the dominant dog's food bowl down first, let him get in the car first, and greet him first when you return home.

[Note: Remember that all human family members, from grandma to the youngest child, must be recognized as higher in the dominance order by family dogs or serious problems can result.]

There is no fairness or equality in the minds of dogs. Size, age, gender, and temperament play roles in establishing dominance, but it's difficult to predict who will be the dominant animal; it's something that the dogs must work out.

But, having said all that, we do know that many of our adopters have come back to select another dog for their home and found it a rewarding experience. The following suggestions on how to select and introduce another dog should make the process easier.

SELECTING YOUR SECOND DOG

(1) A puppy is, in most cases, the best choice for a second pet because the resident dog will not see him as a serious rival who must be driven away or fought to establish dominance. However, when the new puppy grows up, the question of which dog will be dominant may be renegotiated between the two, so an owner should not be surprised when this happens. When a new puppy is introduced, the owner should supervise the interaction with the resident dog closely. Well socialized adult dogs with good temperaments will set limits for puppies with a growl or snarl, but poorly socialized adults or those with a history of fighting may not know how to send more subtle signals and act aggressively towards a puppy when provoked. Give your resident adult dog time away from the puppy, and when you are gone, separate them until you are sure they have established a peaceful dominant/subordinate relationship.

(2) What gender should you choose for a second dog? We will assume that you are a responsible owner whose pets are spayed or neutered, or will be at the proper time, and say that the gender of the new pet is not all that important in most cases. Intact males seem to be the most aggressive towards each other, but unspayed females can also be aggressive to other females. Spaying or neutering usually reduces this aggression towards animals of the same sex., though there are some dogs who will retain an assertive attitude towards others of their gender even after sterilization.

(3) What about the size and breed of the new pet? It doesn't seem to matter all that much. What is important is that you choose a dog or puppy who is likely to have the characteristics you want, just as you did (hopefully!) when you chose your first dog. Some reading and research on the various dog breeds could be very helpful here. Although it is true that there can be great differences between two individuals in the same breed, the various breeds have been bred for many generations to display certain characteristics (like herding, digging, guarding, scenting etc.), and it is wise to keep those tendencies in mind when choosing a dog.

MAKING THE INTRODUCTIONS

Whichever dog you choose, it's important to take the time to introduce him properly to your resident pet, which means taking into account the social and territorial natures of canines. Here are some tips that should maximize your chances for success:

(1) Introduce the dogs in unfamiliar, neutral territory to minimize the chances of the resident dog regarding the newcomer as a territorial threat. A park where you don't normally take your dog would be good, but an unfamiliar fenced yard would be even better.

(2) Make the introduction a happy experience. Each dog should be on leash and handled by a separate person. Bring them close together and watch how they react. As the dogs sniff each other, the usual canine greeting behavior, both should be praised in a happy tone, "Such a good dog! You have a friend to play with!" After a short greeting period, both handlers should call or bring the dogs to them and reward them with treats and praise for their good behavior. Your aim is to get them both to associate the presence of the other with good things like attention, praise, petting, affection, and sometimes food. Take them for a walk around the area, letting them stop and investigate each other at intervals.

(3) If the introduction is going well, give the two more freedom to interact by using long 30-40 foot leads or just dropping their leashes if they are in a fenced area. Be alert to interrupt their interaction at the first sign of aggressive response like hair rising along the back, prolonged staring, growling, baring the teeth, or walking stiff legged. Don't punish; distract their attention to something else by calling or bringing to the handler and rewarding good behavior with praise and food. Repeat the process for short periods, separating them before they display aggressive behavior.

We certainly hope that adding a new dog to your home will work out; we're always looking for good placements. But please remember that two dogs are a lot more expensive and time consuming than one. Don't get another dog because you are feeling guilty about not spending enough time with the one you already have. Remember that they both will need exercise, grooming, companionship, etc. So if one dog seems like more than you can handle, then none is probably better for you than two.

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If you plan to bring a dog into a home with a resident cat, your best bet is, in most cases, a very young puppy, one too little to accomplish much barking or chasing of the cat. Although most cats recognize that an 8 week-old puppy isn't much of a threat, you will need to monitor their time together at first to guard against injury such as a slash across the puppy's eyes. It is possible to combine unfamiliar adult dogs and adult cats, but it may take a lot of work and time; it all depends on the personalities of the dog and cat. The following routine will maximize your chances for success in introducing a new dog to your cat:

(1) Before you attempt a face-to-face meeting, keep the animals separated and first let them get used to the smell of the other and be aware the other's presence in a non-threatening manner. Feed them closer and closer on opposite sides of the closed door separating their areas until they can eat calmly right next to the door. Hopefully, they will begin to associate the presence of the other animal with good things like eating. It would also be a good idea to begin teaching (or reviewing) some basic obedience commands ("sit," "down," "stay") to your new dog in preparation for the face-to-face meetings.

(2) Keep the first face-to-face meetings short and both animals controlled. One person should be with the leashed dog, commanding him to "sit" or "down" while the other person holds the cat on his/her lap on the other side of the room. If the dog behaves aggressively, he should be distracted by pulling on the lead or giving a command. Both animals should be praised and rewarded with special tidbits of food for calm behavior. Reward for good behavior is far better than punishment because you want the dog to associate pleasant things with the cat's presence. Gradually bring the two closer until they have the chance to investigate each other face-to-face. The behavior of the animals will tell you whether this will take one or many short sessions.

(3) If the cat and dog seem happy together in the controlled situation, the next step is to allow them loose in the room together, but be certain that the cat has an escape route or a safe place to hide in case the dog becomes excited. Keep them separated when you are gone until you are sure that they can get along. If this step does not go well, go back and spend more time on the earlier introductory stages.

Always be cautious and concerned for the safety of your cat and dog when introducing adult animals, even if they have previously had an amicable relationship with an individual of the other species.

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Crating a puppy is a procedure widely recommended by trainers, groomers, veterinarians, animal shelters, and behaviorists. Crating is based on the idea that dogs are denning animals. In the wild many canid species use a small cave or dug-out area to give birth to pups and for protection while sleeping or resting. However, contrary to what some sources would lead you to believe, wild canids do not spend their day in the den. Crating, while a useful tool in many situations, can be over-used and improperly used.

Using a crate as a housetraining aid has two purposes. First, it makes it easier to supervise the puppy and prevents him from having complete access to the house where he is likely to get into mischief. Second, since puppies have a natural tendency not to soil their den or sleeping area, the puppy will be unlikely to eliminate in her crate, and more likely to eliminate when she is taken outside. Problems can develop if a crate is used in ways at odds with these premises. First, young puppies can only be expected to control their bladder and bowels for several hours, NOT for an entire work day.

Leaving a puppy in a crate for 8 to 10 hours is not an appropriate way to use a crate in housetraining. The puppy needs to be released from the crate and put outside when she needs to eliminate. A puppy who is forced to soil her crate as a result of being crated too long is not being treated fairly, and will be much more difficult to housetrain.

Crate training can be accomplished in several days, or may take several weeks, depending on the age, temperament, and previous experiences your puppy has had. You should keep two things in mind while training your puppy to a crate. First, the crate should always be associated with something pleasant for the puppy, and second, training should take place in a series of small steps - don't try to do too much too fast.

Step 1: Introducing your puppy to the crate.

Put the crate in an area of your house where you and your family spend a lot of time, such as the family room or kitchen. Put a soft sleeping blanket or towel in the crate. Bring your puppy over to the crate and talk to him in an excited, happy tone of voice. Make sure the door to the crate is securely fastened open so it won't accidentally hit your puppy and frighten him. Drop some small tidbits of food around the crate, just inside the door, and then gradually all the way inside to encourage your puppy to enter. If she doesn't go all the way in at first to get the food, that's OK. DO NOT force her to enter.

Repeat this experience until your puppy will calmly walk into the crate to obtain a piece of food. If your puppy isn't interested in food, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate instead. This process may take just a few minutes, or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feeding your puppy in the crate.

After your puppy has been introduced to the crate, you can begin feeding him his regular meals near the crate for a while. This will create pleasant associations with the crate and decrease any fear he has of the crate. If your puppy is readily entering the crate when you begin step 2, you can place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. However, if your puppy is still reluctant to enter the crate, then place the dish right in front of the open door or as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed him, place the dish a little more toward the back of the crate. Once your puppy is comfortably eating his food while standing in the crate, you can close the door while he's eating.

At first, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal, let him out, and praise him. With each succeeding feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he is staying in the crate without protesting for 10 minutes or so after eating. If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the duration of crating too quickly. Next time, try leaving him for a shorter time. Be sure to release him from the crate when he is not whining or barking. If vocalizing results in release, the behavior will be reinforced and a problem will develop.

Step 3: Conditioning your puppy to the crate for longer periods.

After our puppy is eating her regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can begin to confine her there for short periods while you are home. Begin by calling her over to the crate in return for a food reward. Give her a command to enter such as "kennel up". You can encourage her to do so by pointing to the inside of the crate with a tidbit of a favorite food in your hand. After your puppy enters the crate, reward her with the tidbit and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for 5 or 10 minutes and then go out of sight into another room for a few minutes.

When you return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then release your puppy. Repeat this procedure several times a day. With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time the puppy is crated, and the length of time you are out of sight. Once your puppy will quietly remain in the crate for about 30 minutes, you can begin leaving her crated when you are gone for short periods, and/or letting her sleep there at night. It may take several days or several weeks to get to this point.

Step 4: Crating when left alone.

After your puppy is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid while you are there, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods while you are gone. Put him in the crate with your regular "kennel up" or a similar command. You will want to vary at what point you put your puppy in the crate during the process of getting ready to leave. Although he should not be crated for a long period before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from 2 to 20 minutes prior to leaving. Do not make departures emotional and prolonged, but matter-of-fact instead. Praise your puppy briefly and give him a tidbit for entering the crate, and then leave quietly.

When you arrive home do not inadvertently reward your puppy for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals very low key and reserve playful, excited greeting behavior for after he has been let outside and has calmed down somewhat. Continue to crate your puppy for short periods from time to time when you are home so that he does not begin to associate crating with being left alone.

Step 5: Crating at Night.

Follow the same procedure you have been using to encourage your puppy to enter his crate willingly. Initially, it may be a good idea (especially if you have a young puppy) to locate the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when she whines to be let outside. Initially, older puppies should also be kept nearby so that crating does not become associated with social isolation. Once your puppy is sleeping comfortably through the night with her crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer.

Whining

If your puppy whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he is whining to be let out of the crate, or if he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you follow the training procedure outlined above, your puppy should not have been reinforced by being let out of the crate when whining. Initially you can ignore the whining. Your puppy may stop if he is just testing to see if he'll be let out. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate may only increase his vocalizations. If the whining continues after you have ignored it for several minutes, you can repeat the phrase your puppy has associated with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose - not play time. If you are convinced that your puppy does not need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore the whining completely. Most attempts at punishing the behavior actually end up inadvertently reinforcing it because the puppy is getting attention from you.

During the process of ignoring whining, expect it to get worse before it gets better. You cannot give in, otherwise you will have taught your puppy that he must whine loud and long to get what he wants! If you have progressed very gradually through the training steps and have not attempted to hurry the process and cut corners, you will not be likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to restart the crate training process from the very beginning.

A puppy should never be crated as punishment for misbehavior!

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Jumping on visitors is a common problem, especially with young dogs. Dogs who are playful and like people may not be able to contain their excitement over meeting someone. Jumping, barking, and racing around the house turns into a great game that gets played every time someone comes through the door. These dogs thrive on attention and some of the techniques suggested for getting them to stop jumping may actually worsen the problem by giving the dog more attention. Saying "no", yelling at your dog, kneeing her in the chest, or trying to push her back down are really ways of giving her more attention and may encourage her to keep trying. Even if your dog obeys commands well most of the time, the prospect of greeting someone new may be too overwhelming, so commands like "off" or "down" may be ignored.

The keys to altering this kind of behavior are to divide the process into small steps that make it easy for your dog to do the right thing and to use an effective means of preventing your dog from jumping. The goal is to teach your dog to voluntarily stop jumping up. The first step is to teach her to respond to commands. Using rewards like food and attention, most dogs can quickly be taught to obey. The next step is to practice commands like sit, down, or stay near the door, but without visitors. Give lots of praise, petting, and food treats for prompt obedience. Once she's mastered that step, start having family members/friends be practice visitors. Have her sit near the door while a family member/friend goes outside, knocks, then enters like a visitor. As long as she remains sitting, continue with praise and occasional treats. Practice this several times in a row each day until your dog readily stays sitting while someone enters the house.

If you find that she keeps getting up when someone enters, use a leash and collar to help her obey. One of the best collars for this purpose is a Gentle Leader. It fits like a halter and gives you much greater control over your dog's head than a regular flat collar. It's also more effective and more humane than a choke chain or prong collar. The Gentle Leader collar has two flat nylon loops, one that fits around the neck like a regular collar and a second that fits over the bridge of the nose and around the mouth. The leash is attached underneath the dog's jaw, so when you pull on the leash the dog feels pressure on the back of the head. Since dogs tend to pull against where they feel pressure, pulling up and forward on the leash causes your dog to pull backward and stay sitting. Gentle Leader collars are available from the Animal Humane Society and also from many local veterinarians.

The final stage is to work with real visitors. By now your dog should be used to the routine of sitting when someone comes in the door, since she'll know that obeying the command will lead to a great pay-off of attention and treats. If she does get too excited, use the Gentle Leader collar and leash to prevent her from jumping up. As long as she remains sitting, praise her and have the visitor approach to give her a treat and pet as well.

With some dogs you can use a simpler approach. Dogs are very social and thrive on attention. If you give your dog any attention (including talking to her or even just looking at her) when she jumps, he's likely to continue trying. On the other hand, if you completely ignore your dog by not looking at her or even turning your back whenever she jumps up, then she may quickly lose interest and stop trying. If there is no pay-off in the form of a response from you, then your dog may decide that jumping up doesn't work so there's no reason to keep doing it.

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Having your puppy in a quiet down position is one of the most effective ways for you to reinforce your leadership and helps your puppy relax in a very comfortable position while under your control. While puppy is in the quiet down position, make every effort to prevent any escape from your control - preventing any "getting up" is essential if puppy is to recognize your leadership. When puppy "wins" by getting up and then is put back in position, you are teaching puppy to get up and receive attention by being put back down again.

· Begin exercise by having puppy in a sit position at your side or front.

· Keeping the target (your hand with the "million dollar food reward") about 1/2 inch from puppy's nose, move the target slowly toward the floor keeping close to puppy's chest and front legs. Go slowly enough to make sure puppy's nose follows the target toward the floor. Then, whichever method works best for you and puppy to achieve a down position, either:

A) Continue moving the target forward along the floor, with puppy's nose and front feet following at 1/2 inch until puppy is lying on his chest and abdomen on the floor. Continue moving the target directing puppy's nose away from your body and around towards puppy's hip. Praise puppy in a soft, high tone of voice as puppy rolls over on his underside hip (putting puppy's body in a "C" position) with puppy's rear legs pointing away from your body. Puppy's rear legs are no longer ready to spring up or kick off your body and puppy is comfortable. Puppy may lie on his chest or side.

or....

B) Continue moving the target directing puppy's nose away from your body and around towards puppy's hip. Praise puppy in a soft, high tone of voice as puppy rolls over on his underside hip (putting puppy's body in a "C" position) with puppy's rear legs pointing away from your body. Puppy's rear legs are no longer ready to spring up or kick off your body and puppy is comfortable. Puppy may lie on his chest or side.

· As puppy goes into this position, quickly place one hand over the shoulders of the puppy to hold puppy in position and reward with food from your target hand. If helpful, place your other hand on puppy's hip.

· If puppy struggles and/or cries, withdraw all attention - verbal, petting, eye contact.

· The first several times, hold puppy in this position only long enough for puppy to relax. Extend length of time by 30 second intervals to 2-3 minutes the first week. As puppy begins to calmly accept this position, reward by lifting your hands 1 inch above puppy's body, but ever ready to quickly apply pressure to keep puppy in position if puppy tries to get up.

· Then you may gradually increase the length of time up to 60 minutes.

· You may praise softly and gently as puppy is lying quietly.

· To end the exercise (puppy is calm and quiet and you are holding puppy in place), reward puppy sometimes with food and always with quiet praise. The exercise is then completed by giving puppy's release word.

· Congratulations! Puppy now accepts lying quietly at your side whenever the occasion warrants!

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Some Questions to Ponder:

How well was your pet socialized to travel as a young animal?

If he has had positive travel experiences and is accustomed to being in a kennel, he's more likely to be a good traveler.
Is he in good health?
What kind of temperament does he have?
If your pet is either very timid or extremely high strung, he may make the trip more worrisome than wonderful.
What kind of transportation is involved?
Cars and airplanes are relatively hassle-free means of travel, but be advised that either can be less than safe in very hot or very cold weather. Many busses, trains, and cruise ships prohibit pets entirely, except dogs who accompany people who are physically challenged.

General Travel Tips

Don't feed your pet the morning of your departure, and do not give him water for four hours before departure, unless the day is hot.
Exercise your pet and allow him to eliminate immediately prior to departure. Administer any prescribed tranquilizers at the designated time.

The Pre-Trip Checklist

Once you determine that your pet will make a good traveler, make sure to prepare him for the trip. A pre-trip veterinary exam is a must. Keep these points in mind:

Interstate plane travel usually requires a health certificate, stating the animal's general health and current vaccinations. This must be signed by a veterinarian and issued no earlier than ten days prior to departure.

Your airline may also request a copy of your pet's rabies vaccination certificate.
International trips may require a health certificate signed by the state veterinarian.

Be aware of important restrictions in the country of destination.

Ask your veterinarian about motion sickness medication or tranquilizers, if you think they are necessary. (Never medicate your pet with human medications. Tranquilizers, for instance, can cause a drop in the animal's body temperature.)

Make sure the crate is well ventilated and large enough for him to stand, turn around, and lie down comfortably.

As you pack, keep your pet's health papers easily accessible.

The Essentials... Your Traveling Pet will Need

Food and water dishes
A container of your pet's regular food, and possibly bottled tap water from home. (It's not wise to leave bowls of food and water in your pet's carrier, to avoid possible motion sickness. In addition, your pet will need to eliminate more frequently and unpredictably.)
Schedule water breaks every few hours (more frequently in very hot weather). Give your pet the opportunity to eliminate 20 minutes to an hour after each break. Wait until you have reached that day's destination to feed your pet.
A "security blanket" such as a towel or old clothing in your pet's carrier to make him feel more secure about being away from home.
Both cats and dogs require a collar or harness, leash, and ID tag that gives your name, address, and home telephone number plus your destination number. Neither animal should ever be outside without being placed on a leash, and both should always wear collars.
Cats will require a litter box and cat litter. Carry a filled box inside a garbage bag to prevent spills and contain odors, plus a scoop and plastic bags for disposal of used litter.

Your Pet's Home Away from Home

To acquire a list of hotels that accommodate animals, consult Mobil Travel Guides 1997 (Rand-McNally). While you and your pet are hotel guests, observe these courtesies:
Display a do not disturb sign on your door and inform hotel personnel when you leave your pet alone in your room.
Have your pet sleep in her carrier rather than on furniture.
For cats, provide a scratching post or piece of nubby carpeting for claw sharpening instead of hotel bedspreads or drapes.
Be aware of your dog's bathroom needs to avoid accidents.

Car Travel

Rules of the road if your trip is by car:

Never let your dog ride with her head out of the car window because sand and debris could hurt her eyes
Never leave your pet in a hot car!! She can die within 20 minutes, even with the window cracked open.
Avoid leaving your pet unattended in the vehicle, but if you must leave your pet in a car in cool weather, be sure windows are up and doors are locked.

Air Travel

Here are some tips for air travel:

Check with your air carrier to find out if they allow pets in the cargo hold or in the cabin.
If pets are allowed, make a reservation for your pet, and book a direct flight if possible. Only one or two dogs are allowed per flight, so reservations must be made well in advance.
Travel mid-week to avoid the Friday to Monday airport rush. For the same reason, do not ship pets on holidays.
Ask your airline if your pet can ride under the seat in front of you. Under-seat carriers must be 21"x 14"x 8" or smaller.
Pets may also travel as checked baggage in the cargo hold, which is a pressurized, temperature-controlled compartment that is required by law to provide adequate ventilation for safe animal transport. A pet flying without you must travel in the cargo hold. Very large dogs are usually not taken on passenger flights and must travel by air freight on a cargo flight.
Only healthy, adult animals should be shipped in a cargo hold. The environment in the cargo hold can change depending on the weather, so ask what your pet may experience. For summer travel, schedule an early morning or evening flight to avoid the heat of the day. Do not put choke collars on animals flying in the cargo hold; use a flat-buckle collar.

Cargo Crates

Pets traveling in the cargo hold must have a U.S. Department of Agriculture approved carrier. These are available from the airline or at most pet stores. Make sure the crate is securely fastened but unlocked in case the pet must be removed in an emergency.

The crate should contain a water dish attached by brackets, positioned to be filled by an attendant without opening the crate. Newspaper or some other absorbent, disposable material may be the most convenient for your pet's bedding.

Clearly mark the crate "Live Animal", and put arrows on two sides indicating the correct upright position. Paste a label on the top of the crate indicating your name, address, phone number, and destination. Some airlines require health papers to be attached outside the crate, clearly visible. Airlines say that crates "decorated" with colorful strips of plastic tape, or painted with a design, make them easier to identify for owners wishing to confirm that pets were loaded on the aircraft.

Make a note of baggage retrieval times and pick up your pet at the "special handling" area of baggage claim upon arrival.

Leaving Your Pet Home, But Not Alone

You may decide that your pet would do best at home, surrounded by the sights, sounds and smells she knows best. You can hire an individual or a pet-sitting service to tend to your pet in your home while you're away. In some cases, refilling food and water dishes may be all you require, or you may wish to pay for extra visits, walks, and attention. These services can also be hired to water plants, bring in mail, and turn lights on and off to give the home that "lived-in look", which deters thieves.

In-Home Sitters and Boarding

By choosing to bring your pet to a person who does pet-sitting in their own home, you allow your pet to get close attention and care in a personal setting.

Visit the Residences of In-Home Pet Sitters Note the cleanliness and noise level
Inquire as to the maximum number of animals that the person will care for at a time.
Whatever service you choose, ask for references, and check them out. You don't want to leave your pet in the hands of someone who is less than responsible, and you don't want to give an untrustworthy person the key to your home.

Boarding

Boarding Kennels are the most commonly used pet care alternative. They vary a great deal in services provided, quality, and cost, so check around.

The Animal Humane Society has a full-service pet boarding facility. Link here for more information.

When you do select the best way to care for your pet in your absence, make sure to provide all the information the caregiver may need. To help maintain a regular schedule, provide your caregiver with:

Your pet's regular feeding, sleeping, and playing schedule
A supply of everyday food
Any medications your pet needs
Your emergency phone number, your veterinarian's phone number, and someone who can authorize emergency veterinary care

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Articles courtesy Denver Dumb Friends League and the Animal Humane Society.