Cutting Dovetail Joints

With the aid of a dovetail jig and guide bushes, cutting dovetail joints with a router is a breeze.

When I make drawers, I use dovetail joints all the way around (front & back of the drawer). Needless to say, I have many joints to cut. It only makes sense to use a router to cut all the dovetail joints.

There are a number of dovetail jigs on the market but I prefer to use the Leigh dovetail jig because it allows me flexibility. I can cut different types and sizes of dovetail joints with this jig. Just to name a few, through dovetails, large and small, half blind, rabbetted half blind and sliding dovetail joints. I can lay-out one large dovetail in the center of a board or make a few equally spaced dovetail joints. The Leigh Dovetail Jig gives me that kind of flexibility which no other Dovetail Jig that I know of can do.

I like using two routers with this jig, because it takes a dovetail bit ( ½" x 8 degree) to cut the pins and a straight bit (5/16") to cut the tails. Use a 5/8" O.D. guide bushing on the router with both steps of procedure. The DW 610 router has the option of using a 1/4" collet or 1/2" collet. I like this option because I can use router bits with a 1/4" shaft or 1/2" shaft.

Each dovetail jig will come will it's own manufacturer's instructions and steps of procedure.
Note: Not all dovetail jigs allow the flexability of cutting half-blind and sliding dovetails. Keep this in mind when you decide to add one of these jigs to your arsenal of shop tools.

The first step when cutting dovetail joints with a router is preparing the wood or stock. Generally the stock should be straight, flat, of equal widths and even thickness with square ends and edges. Prepare extra boards for testing fits. Cut the stock to finish size.

Once the stock is prepared, the routers and the jig itself is set up (according to the manufacturer's instructions), perfect fitting dovetail joints can be cut in a matter of minutes. Make as many cuts as you can with a single set-up because, it takes more time to get set-up that it does to actually make the cuts.

For example; You're making four drawers that are the same size. Prepare all the stock required to make the four drawers (and your test pieces). Set-up to cut the tails. Cut all the tails required to make the four drawers before setting up to cut the pins. Minimize the number of set-ups and you'll increase efficiency.

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The hand cut dovetail joint is perhaps the most intimidating joint for the woodworker. As with anyother woodworking skill, mastering the dovetail is a matter of practice makes perfect. With this joint, visualization helps to understand how it fits together. Study the image above or if you have an old box made with dovetail joints, study it too until it makes sense. You might even pull it apart and identify the pins and tails, half pins and shoulders.

As the joint is layed out, keep a few basic principles in mind:

1. The dovetail joint has two parts: the pins and the tails. Always cut the pins first!

2. For strength and integrity, the joint should begin and end with half-pins.

3. The angle of the pin should not be steeper than 80 degrees.

4. The pin and tail spacing don't need to be exact. The tails can be as much as three times the width of the pins, the pin and tail sizes can even vary within the same joint. This creates a look that is unique to hand-cut dovetail joints.

Dovetail joints require planning and accurate layout. The hand cut dovetail must be layed out on the workpieces. You'll need a T-bevel or flanged dovetail jig. The pins are cut with a dovetail saw, then the waste can be cut out with a coping saw or a series of saw cuts just shy of the shoulder line with the dovetail saw. Final clean up is done with a sharp chisel.

The pin board is then used to make layout lines for the tails. Once layed out, the tails are also cut with a dovetail saw and chisel. If you cut the dovetails accurately, the fit will be tight enough that the joint stays together with out glue. Congradulations! You've just hand cut a dovetail joint.