Skip to navigation | Skip to content

Share your knowledge. Make a difference.

Digitizing Color Transparencies -- What You Should Know

1 - I can do better 2 - Jury's out 3 - Pretty darn good 4 - Splendiferous 5 - Awesometastic (by 5 people)   Your rating: 1 - I can do better 2 - Jury's out 3 - Pretty darn good 4 - Splendiferous 5 - Awesometastic

Ranked #1112 in DIY, #20491 overall

Rated G. (Control what you see)

When You Digitize Your Color Slides (also called "Transparencies"), Things You Should Know

 

When I stumbled over a large box full of color transparencies (35mm slides) from my early photography days, I wanted to see them again. 

Although I had spent many years of taking pictures using transparency films such as Kodachrome, Ektachrome, Agfa, Sakura-Color, Fujicolor, and 5421film,  I never had a reliable projector (whether a straight-tray or carousel projector, they never used to work well anyway--the ones I tried always wanted to eat the slides)... 

I searched through some of the boxes of slides and found a few hundred I thought might be worthwhile seen and shared again--and got them digitized.  Most came out fine.... but some had problems--

This Squidoo is an attempt to help you avoid the problems that I had with some of the digitized images.

BLUE Hawaii Images on Goodies from CafePress! 

The blue, blue, and more blue in this image was enough to drive the phototechnician nuts with trying to adjust the "color balance"... Luckily, I'm able to show a transparency to the technician and tell them that what they see on the transparency is the color I want to see on the print.

Rectangle Magnet

Rectangle Magnet

Price: 4.99

Buy Now

Calendar Print

Calendar Print

Price: 5.99

Buy Now

Greeting Cards (Pk of 10)

Greeting Cards (Pk of 10)

Price: 16.99

Buy Now

Postcards (Package of 8)

Postcards (Package of 8)

Price: 7.99

Buy Now

Small Poster

Small Poster

Price: 15.99

Buy Now

Powered by CafePress

Why Slides Versus Prints in the First Place? And Now, Digitizing? 

Accurate Color Depiction and More Control of Final Image!

When I first learned my photography, I was using an Instamatic box camera with the cartridge film. I'd shoot a roll of film and then my Mom and Dad would take us to the photoshop where we'd get prints made. We not only had to pay for the developing of the film, but also the developing of the prints.

Sometimes, the photoshop would print photos that were hopeless. This might have been my fault because the film was incorrectly exposed or focused or was blurred. But many times, I had exposed it correctly, but an inexperienced technician at the photoshop would try to adjust the exposure to make it "normal". This usually happens only when you take out-of-the-ordinary shots that do not cover the usual range of colors and contrasts.

A usual picture--especially one that's recognizable to the average technician at a photolab--presents no problems for creating a print. The technician can adjust it accordingly to get the skin-tones right or to get something else that's easily recognizable to be right. This creates a photo that generally is what is intended.

However, photos such as night shots, or underwater shots, or snow shots--if there's nothing easily recognizable in the image--can result in a mess during the final development process. And as I got more and more experienced with my photography, I was having more problems with getting the correct development of my prints.

So, I learned how to develop my own film--black and white, color print (C-41 process), and color transparency (E-4/E-6 process). I also learned that transparency film was not forgiving. Unless you knew that you had underexposed or overexposed the film, you'd have to develop the film with the same times, temperatures, and procedures no matter what. The resulting slides were the resulting slides.

I quickly learned to "bracket my exposures" to ensure that I'd have a better change at capturing the images I was trying for. This worked well--because when the transparencies were developed by the lab or by myself, they resembled more closely the sight I had seen and had tried to capture.

This is why I decided early on in my photography experience to switch to transparency film--I could have the images captured the way I wanted them. (I still used print film for much of my family shots and for when I was working at the newspaper.)

Except for those who have converted to digital, this is why professional photographers use transparency film.

More Goodies on Digitization from Amazon! 

Understanding Exposure: How to Shoot Great Photographs with a Film or Digital Camera (Updated Edition)

Amazon Price: $16.47 (as of 08/21/2008)
List Price: $24.95

The Digital Photography Book

Amazon Price: $13.59 (as of 08/21/2008)
List Price: $19.99

The Digital Photography Book, Volume 2

Amazon Price: $16.49 (as of 08/21/2008)
List Price: $24.99

Adobe Photoshop CS3 Classroom in a Book

Amazon Price: $32.99 (as of 08/21/2008)
List Price: $54.99

The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2 Book: The Complete Guide for Photographers

Amazon Price: $31.49 (as of 08/21/2008)
List Price: $49.99

So now you have Transparencies/Slides. Now What? Digitization! 

When transparencies are digitized through a scanning process (or even when prints are digitized by scanning, for that matter), a process similar to printing takes place. Again, if you have an experienced technician with an eye for color and art (as well as being able to see whether or not the image in the transparency has the intended color and contrast balance), you will be fine.

However, if you have inexperienced technicians, they may try to comply with the scanner software that tries to overcorrect for color/contrast balance in an attempt to make the picture "normal". So, we're back at the problem that existed with getting positive prints from negative film. The only difference, however, is that you now have a way to remedy this problem.

You can either scan the slides/transparencies yourself with a flatbed scanner with slide-adaptor or a dedicated transparency scanner (sort of time-consuming) or you can take them to a scanning company to have them done. To get around the problems mentioned above, make a note on a stick-um-note (on the slide frame, not the film itself--duh!), whether the color/contrast on the image on the transparency is what you want or if you'd like them to compensate for under- or over-exposure when they scan the image.

This advice may help you to alleviate your problems with getting the images you want when you digitize your photos.

Digitizing Prints and Transparencies can be Helped by Software! 

Loading Fetching new data from eBay now... please stand by
eBay

Some Examples of Troublesome Images are Presented in this Squidoo! 

The photo of the chef at the top of this page is all red with some tones of black. He was illuminated solely by the red heat lamps over the food serving area in an otherwise darkened dining area. It was a dramatic scene and this is the image I wanted to capture. No adjustment to make "normal" was necessary. I wanted all the RED.

The photo in the snow is just one of many I took on the slopes. I've taken other photos in similar circumstances (the Space Shuttle at White Sands Missile Range, for instance). The Space Shuttles come in only one color: WHITE. White Sands is (duh) WHITE. The clouds were WHITE.

These photos are akin to taking a picture of a polar bear drinking milk during a blizzard. A lot of WHITE, not much with other colors. I've had phototechnicians complain that these photos were horrendously "OVEREXPOSED". Well, yeah, if what I took a picture of had been green or brown, yes, they would be considered "overexposed"--but when most of the stuff in the image is white, "overexposed" is what your camera and software and an unexperienced phototechnician will complain about.

Night shots are usually recognized by phototechnicians as being "night-shots". However, they sometimes will still try to "normalize" the photo--by "lightening it up". Which creates a grainy, weirdly green or grey photo. If I want a black photo with just the lights of a building or cars showing, then that's what I want. Having a slide to point to and being able to say, "this is what the resulting image should look like" is very helpful in getting the right resulting image.

Again, the all-blue scuba-diving shot represents what I saw when I took the picture. However, ALL-BLUE is what the computer sees and what the phototechnician sees. If they are avid scuba-divers, they may process this image correctly, but if they have never dived and are not familiar with what's in the image, you might get an image that resembles the set from the Creature from the Black Lagoon rather than the turquoise waters of Hawaii or Guam.

So... to summarize here, always put a note on your "out-of-ordinary" slides when you are getting them digitized. Do you want them corrected? Or, is the image precisely what you want? Make sure you indicate this on the slide before you get it digitized. Then, your images will be more akin to what you were expecting.

Link Up With These Other Great Resources! 

Take Great Pictures Dot Com!
This website is a joint venture between camera manufacturers and the PhotoImaging Information Council to help you to learn how to get more bang for your bucks with ANY kind of camera you might have. All sorts of great tips here!
Tracy Books!
Glenn and Winnie Coleto have a great bookstore of used and rare books (and new ones, as well). You can get a lot of books on how to use Adobe Photoshop and other software for manipulating and fixing your photos.

Develop a Relationship! Drop a Note! 

Lars

Hi,

I put together a list of the slide scanning services.
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=phRG-JoD0f6N8DrY8b8ZGLw

The best is 18 cents for 4000 dpi. Hope that helps your lens.

Posted June 18, 2008

flowski

Very helpful information regarding the digitizing of color transparencies and what you should know to make it easier.

Posted August 29, 2007

Mister_K

Another great lens, my daughter will love these when I send them to her.
Welcome to our hobby group...

http://www.squidoo.com/groups..The-Love-of-Hobbies

Posted August 27, 2007

X
EditorDave

About EditorDave

Living on Guam is what now "defines" me.  It was such a dramatic difference in my life and outlook on things that there's no way I'd be the same if I had remained in New Mexico or any of the rest of the U.S. Mainland.   One of the classes I took at the University of Guam was "Scientific and Technical Writing and Editing"... I did not realize at the time that this class would be setting the foundation for the rest of my working life.  I found that I *love* words and fooling around with making them work as best as possible.  I also took classes in formal linguistics at the University of Guam--and took classes in Japanese, Russian, Mandarin Chinese. These classes helped me to become comfortable with working with translations of technical material into English from other languages.  I can help folks with making their words work for the particular audience they are writing for.

EditorDave's Pages

See all of EditorDave's pages

X

Gold Star

This is a certified gold star lens, which means it's the best of its kind on Squidoo (or shows some serious potential for getting there!)

Read more about gold stars »

X

EditorDave is a Giant Squid!

Giants are distinguished by their exceptional skill for making top-notch lenses, and lots of them. Whenever you land on a Giant Squid's lens, you know the person behind it is passionate about the topic and is hard at work making the lens worthy of your time and attention.

Learn more about what it takes to be a Giant »