Dime Coins: The Hobby of Kings

1. Of the Barber dime series (1892-1916), the 1894-S is a byword among collectors; out of the 24 struck, only nine have been identified as existing. One of these (figuratively of course) went under the hammer for US$1.3 million at an auction on March 7, 2005, the highest ever offered so far for a dime.
2. The Winged Liberty Head design which came out in 1916 was mistakenly thought to be the Roman god Mercury, but is in fact a depiction of Liberty.
3. Any coin's design may be altered without waiting for Congressional approval after 25 years.
4. Dimes containing silver were made in 1965 and 1966 but bore the date 1964 to boost mintage figures and foil hoarders.
5. A 2003 attempt was made by Congressional Republicans to have Roosevelt's image changed with that of President Ronald Reagan, but this has been unsuccessful so far.
6. The reeded edge on the modern dime--118 ridges to be exact-harks back to the reeding on gold and silver coins which discouraged counterfeiting. It also curbed unscrupulous practices like filing down the edges to gather some of the precious metals.
7. Today, none of the circulation coins have precious metal content.
8. The use of reeded edges on some coins today benefits the visually impaired.

The dime is a coin with a value of ten cents, or one tenth of a United States dollar. The dime has the smallest diameter and is the thinnest of all U.S. coins presently minted for circulation. Perhaps the most interesting fact about the dime is that the actual value in cents or dollars of the coin is nowhere stated on the coin. What we have is a terse "one dime."

Mintage of the dime was enacted by the Coinage Act of 1792, and the manufacture of coins started in 1796. A feminine head symbolizing Liberty appeared on the front of the coin, and an eagle was used on the back. Both sides of the dime had these designs for three varying designs through 1837. From 1837 to 1891, "Seated Liberty" dimes were issued, this time with Liberty seated next to a shield. In 1892, the feminine head was once more on the dime, and the coin was nicknamed "Barber dime" after coin designer Charles E. Barber. The backs of both of the latter two designs had "ONE DIME" surrounded by wreaths. In 1916, the head of a winged-capped Liberty mistakenly called Mercury was put on the dime; the back featured a fasces. The last time change was implemented in the design was in 1946.

The composition and diameter of the dime have also been altered throughout its mintage. Initially the dime was 0.75 inches (or 19 millimeters) wide, but the shift to its current size of 0.705 inches (17.91 millimeters) occurred in 1828. The original metal composition (formerly 89.24 percent silver and 10.76 percent copper) held until 1837, when subtle changes were incorporated (90 percent silver and 10 percent copper). This policy with dimes continued until 1966, although those minted in 1965 and 1966 bear the date 1964. By 1965, dimes were turned out clad with a composition of cupronickel which is still in use today.

"Dime" itself originated from the French word disme (modern French spelling dîme), which meant "tithe" or "tenth part," which in turn came from the Latin decima pars.

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Storing and Displaying Coins

To maintain the worth of any collection secure, there are four standards you should follow:

1. Always keep your coins in a cool and dry place. Sharp changes in temperature and moisture are the main culprits that can devalue your coins. So don't keep your coins, say, in the attic or basement where temperature can bounce around unpredictably.
2. If you can, secure your coins in their original holders. Meanwhile, all new proof sets and commemoratives ought to be bought and sold in their original cases and capsules.
3. Keep in a secure spot, too, the Certificate of Authenticity and the information card that comes with United States Mint proof, uncirculated set, and commemorative sets. If these information are missing, your coins will be harder to sell.

Storage Options

Flips are transparent plastic holders with two pockets for the coin, and for a label. Some flips, such as those made of Mylar®, are little stiff. When you put a coin into a flip or take it out, press both edges gently to allow a wide opening for the coin.

You may also use:
2"x2" cardboard holders
Plastic tubes (for rolls of coins)
Hard plastic holders
Polyethylene sleeves (but not for long-term storage)
Made-for-coins paper envelopes (for circulating coins)
Foldout albums

Practice caution and restraint (and reign in overenthusiasm) when cleaning your coins. Believe it: cleaning coins may reduces their value.
If you undeniably must remove dirt from a coin, use good-quality mild soap and water. Afterwards, pat it (not wipe) dry with a soft towel. Just remember that older coins with an irremediable weathered look have more valuable than coins whose surfaces have been eroded by overzealous cleaning.

Handling Your Collection

We need to discuss first of all how to handle them. A coin must be held by its edges between the thumb and forefinger. This saves the coin's surface and features from potential harm that can come from fingerprints and corrosive natural oils on your skin. So as much as possible your fingers must never come in contact with the obverse or reverse surface. Doing so might result to fingerprint marks on the coin, which may be permanent.

Other veterans of this hobby use soft cotton gloves when working on their uncirculated or proof coins. If you are not wearing gloves, at least ensure that your hands are free from dirt. Also, handle coins over a soft towel or other soft surface so something can catch them in case you let go of them. Be on guard, too, about talking directly over your coins since some saliva-regardless of the droplet size-may stain the surface.