DRYWALL/PLASTERBOARD
Most people find taping drywalls to be difficult. I will show you the pros and cons so you can decide for yourself what your next move will be?
I will make this as easy as possible for you and if you have any questions then ask me by submitting your blurb at the bottom or contact me via my bio.
(I can also receive comments in Norsk,Dansk,Svensk og Scotsk)
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU TRY TO CUT CORNERS?
DO IT YOUR OWN WAY TO SAVE TIME?
I have spoken with many who try tapeing drywalls themselves and end up with a catastrophy. Here are some of the reasons why:1) did not repair gaps properly which showed through the final result or cracked later on.
2) Put filler on the walls very thick in order to save time. They ended up with a nightmare of a job trying to sand it all down. (most common excuse)
3) Often the sanding was not good enough and would show through the paint or wallpaper.
4) Often the tape was not hung properly which resulted in cracks and tapelines anyway?
TIPS: Think before you start!
1)If you make more money per hour than the profesionels, Then let them do it :-)
2) It always and I mean always takes more time than you first realize!
3) Is all that time and work realy worth it?
4) Maybe it would be a good idea to let the pro do the realy difficult work and I do the rest?
5) I have known people to have nervous breakdowns with all the stress! Maybe you should just leave the whole job to the profesionals? Then you have a guarentee with a great job and you can use your time elsewhere :-)
STEP 1, REPAIRING A DRYWALL
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO FIRST:
_av_Drywall_repairs_small_square.jpg)
Ok Drywall taping is a tough one for most who don,t do it on a daily basis. Here are some basic rules to do first if you plan to do it yourself:YOUR CHECK LIST:
1) Check that the wall does not have any inside damage. Like bubbles or broken plaster under the paper. Tear off anything that looks loose. Also check for wide gaps. Often seen above door ways and in corners. Use a stanley knife or cutting tool and cut along the edge on both sides. Reason for this is so that the plaster has something to cling too!. Make sure all screws are screwed in properly!
2) Fill the wide cracks and holes with a filler rapeir kit or some quick drying hard filler. Ask your local suplier about this if in doubt!
3) Like the photo here its smart to use a piece of drywall to fill in larger area,s. Make sure the edges are not loose though, Cut round them with a Stanley knife or cutting tool.
4) Sparkel/Fill round cracks, keep it thin.
5) On conrners there is often a metal strip for better support. Check that this is pressed well into the wall. Check all screws/nails are screwed in properly.
DRYWALL REPAIR
DIY Home Improvement Tips: Free Instructional Guide to Home Repair Projects : Howt to Repair Holes in Drywall: DIY Home Improvement Tips
STEP2, Drywall tapeing/Amestapeing
Basic rules for applying tape (non adhesive)
For translatin reasons I could call this MUD/Filler or sparkel. But here we will call it MUD since there is only three letters :-)YOUR CHECK LIST:
1) you may have to sand down your repair work a little here and there depending if you remembered to apply the mud thinly or not? The photo here shows tape that is not centered properly. Avoid this!
2) Apply the mud side ways covering the cracks between the boards. Do one length at a time. Remember to scrape off excess mud. All you need is enough mud to make sure the tape has something to stick too.
3) Hold the roll of tape on top and roll it down the middle following the crack line. use your fingers to put it in place. (Alternatively cut of the length you need)
4) use your trowel. press this on the top part and drag it down the tape removing all the excess mud.
5) Normaly two aplications of mud are required afterwards, But pay special atention to side walls by the window. If you stand by the side of the wall and look along the wall, You can see if more mud is needed? When the sun shines in the window the side wall is the one that shows the most!
6) When applying second mud coat, Use a wider trowel in order to cover the tape and minimize uneaven-ness. A little wider with the third mud coat
Tip: I always apply mud thin on thin, that way I have little or no sanding between coats.
STEP 3 Tapeing Corners
More than one way
Your check list:
1)Apply mud to the corner. Remember the tape is not that wide so the sparkel does not have to be either. Apply enough mud to cover the whole corner.
2) place the tape into the corner using your trowel to center it. Be carefull not to push the tape too hard as it may split!
3) Remove excess sparkel
4) When dry, Apply mud to one side of the corner at a time and let dry. Its the easiest method, But can take longer time. Alternatively use a corner mud trowel of you have one?
5) Corners don,t normaly need more sparkel than between boards.
Drywall
This is how it should look, But depending on where the wall is situated some len...
Screw holes should be sparkeled twice. Its possible to get away with it once dep...
One method to sand, But its not good on your arms or neck. Matter of fact there ...
See my lens for tips on taping corners and repairs ect..
See my lens on how to complete this job!
This machine is just awesome. There is a bit of arm work involved, But it makes ...
Realy cool sign for dangerous or don,t touch. I use it in my candy box too. Othe...
This was me 20 years ago
This is me in another 40 years, So I keep telling myself :-)
STEP 4 Sanding
Sanding between joints and elsewhere
YOUR CHECK LIST:
1) Sand all the corners by hand until completely smooth.
2) use a sanding poll to sand the rest. Sandpapir nr120 if sanding on a hard drywall compound. Nr150 if sanding on a medium compound.
3) Sand up and down. Not sideways. The idea is to sand down the edges so that you cannot feel the lines. Sand a little in the middle to to take away the roughness.
4) Watch out for small pouruss bubbles in the mud! It may be that you put on to much mud? Those have to be sanded down.
5) Vacum and prime walls after sanding. Then use a work lamp and go round and touch up missed ereas, Bubbles ect.
Roof/Celing
Applying tape,Mud and sanding
YOUR CHECK LIST:
1)Apply the mud the same as you do for the walls Sideways and then even it of. Mud one length at a time. Apply the tape same as for walls. (Alternatively you can also roll the mud on with a roller)
2) press your trowel into the tape and drag lengthwize removing excess mud in the process.
3) After drying apply two more coats. Roofs dont need to be as wide as the walls do though. But if in doubt? too wide is better!
4) Sand as you do on walls using a sanding poll
Tip 1: Tapeing roofs can be very strenous on your neck and arms. Make sure you stretch out before and after. Try not to bend your head backwards too often. This can damage the nerves below your neck at the top of your spine which can lead to other problems!
Tip 2: Try applying mud on one wall or roof at a time in order to avoid too much strain on your neck and back! Or let a profesional do it :)
Drywall trowels
Sanding tools
Drywall tools and materials
Drywall books
Hand picked by me :-)
Drywalling
How far are you willing to go with Taping drywalls? Do you realy want to take the risk?
Drywall/Plasterboard/Gypsum
(or whatever you call it in your designated country? :-)
You may have figured out by now that I am writing this lens for a eurapean/American/Canadian population :-)
:For the musical group "Drywall," see Drywall (musical project)
Category: Image - :Drywall.jpg|thumb|Example of drywall with joint compound, the common interior building material. (This photo shows drywall hung vertically.)
Drywall is a common manufactured building material used globally for the finish construction of interior walls and ceilings.
A drywall panel is made of a paper liner wrapped around an inner core made primarily from gypsum plaster, the semi-hydrous form of calcium sulfate (CaSO4.½ H2O). The raw gypsum (mined or FGD) must be calcined before use. Flash calciners typically use natural gas today. The plaster is mixed with fiber (typically paper and/or fiberglass), plasticizer, foaming agent, potash as an accelerator, EDTA or other chelate as a retarder, various additives that increase mildew and fire resistance (fiberglass or vermiculite), and water. This is then formed by sandwiching a core of wet gypsum between two sheets of heavy paper or fiberglass mats. When the core sets and is dried in a large drying chamber, the sandwich becomes rigid and strong enough for use as a building material. Drying chambers typically use natural gas today. Depending on plant efficiency and energy costs, 25% to 45% of drywall cost today is related to energy, primarily natural gas.
Drywall is also commonly known as gypsum board, wallboard, plasterboard (USA,UK, Ireland, Australia), Gibraltar board or gib (New Zealand - GIB being a trademark of Winstone Wallboards), rock lath, Sheetrock (a trademark of United States Gypsum Company), gyprock (Canada, Australia, UK), pladur (Spain - after the Pladur brand), or rigips (Germany and Central Europe - after the Rigips brand), or simply board.
DRYWALLING TIPS
- Drywallschool tips list
- Drywallschool
- Drywall taping videoshowcase
- Yes you guessed! This is an added adition to my lens. Its my own video showcase on how to tape drywalls/plasterboard. Here you will see how other do the job. They will give you lots of tips and advice in the process. I have added my own opinions too so have fun!
Reader Feedback
Make Coments, Ask for advice,Give advice or just say thanks, then put it here:
|
richgerman
a fantastic lens... i wonder why i thought it was a hard work to do.. thanks for the infos... Posted July 25, 2008 |
|
FoxMusic
thanks AMK - just finished a couple of small projects, and entry way and a bathroom - if you recall tips and pointers as you are doing them things go pretty smooth. Posted May 21, 2008 |
|
marypeters
Hey! Posted May 05, 2008 |
|
AMK
Re: "wide gaps between drywall plates" Posted May 04, 2008 |
Thanks for answering questions. I'm a homeowner and I've hung and mudded drywall before, took my time and did a good job. My problem now-my contractor hung the drywall leaving wide gaps-some so wide that I'll have to replace it but where the gaps are like 1/4 inch between sheets can I mud and tape without it cracking later? Thanks for your help
Posted May 01, 2008
|
|
AMK
I someone actualy reads this? Then you may be aware of my biggest problem which is that I had never heard of Drywall until I lived in the US. We call it Jibbs, English call it plasterboard and some giprock. Thats the english speaking countries too. That makes it just a little more tricky to build a lens. My intro for this lens can be misleading too. A drywaller is not a drywall taper so I just found out? Woops :) Posted March 20, 2008 |
|
happy-jack
Mr. Fellow who comes from Scotland and lives Posted March 19, 2008 |
|
Excelent lens man! Posted December 13, 2007 |
I loved your video showcase lens for drywalling to dear. But I don,t need the advice! I have you :)
Posted December 12, 2007
|
adez7
Not bad! as a matter of fact not bad at all. I have three brothers who are builders, and I am quite familiar with drywall and all aspects of it. This lens does a very nice job detailing all the steps and prep necessary for drywall repair and the tools necessary. Five stars, good job Posted December 04, 2007 |
Preparing old walls for papering
(Focusing on old papered walls)
If you have a room that has been papered before and you are thinking of papering over the wall, Then here are some tips:1) Make sure all wall fixtures are removed and that you have plenty of space to work.
2) If the paper is easy to remove, Then you should consider removing it!
3) Use good lighting, Like a halogen lamp. Its easy to miss stuff on a wall, Especialy where the sun shines in.
4) If removing the paper proves too difficult? Then you may want to cut circles round all the bubbles. Bumpy area,s can be hammered in or cut out,Remove lining paper behind by wetting it first. Also cut off loose edges like between joints and especialy in corners. A good method of checking just how much damage a wall has is to wet it with a sponge.
5) If your old paper is vinyl or painted from before, Then you may need to prime it first? You can ask your local dealer about this if you are not sure or drop me a line?
6) Apply mud to the damaged area,s. If your paper is bumpy all over, Then you may have to apply a thin layer of mud to the whole wall? See point 2) above again :-) You can also sparkel wide on area,s that may not look straight. You can use a long straight peice of wood on the wall to see just how uneven or even it is!
7) Sand the walls. Preferably with a sanding poll, But go over it by hand too just to check that all is smooth!
8) Sometimes its neccesary to prime ontop of the mudded area,s, But not always.
For other help see my other painting lenses or visit my site Headed Vaktmester on this lens!
Hanging wallpaper to cover your own mud/sparkel work
Inc good tip for corners
In some cases its not neccesary to tape the corners, But that all depends on what you plan to hang on the wall afterwards!. This lady chose a very thin wallpaper. I was surprized that it even lasted 6 months? :-) So here is some more free advice:
If you are doing your own mud work and plan to hang wallpaper, Then it might be a good idea to use a thick wallpaper as apposed to a thin wallpaper and as far as corners go, Mud & Tape them anyway just to be safe :-)
