How To Make Your Own Skirt Pattern

It is very important that you take your measurements accurately, as the measurements you use will affect the outcome of the project.   Take the measurements according to the instructions -- don't wrap the tape measure too tightly around the hips and waist - just make the measurement snug, not too tight or too loose.  Remember, the measurement you take now will determine how tight or loose the finished skirt will be.

1.  WAIST - Measure around your normal waistline and record the measurement.

2.  HIP - Measure around the fullest part of the hip (normally 8" below the waistline) and record the measurement

3.  LENGTH - Measure from the natural waistline to the desired length.  This can be a mini skirt, above the knee length, below the knee length, or full length, whichever you prefer.  We would recommend a length that would be at or slightly below the knee for your first pattern, as this will be easier for you to draw on your pattern paper.

Items necessary for pattern making
-- these will be needed for the next class when we'll be giving the step by step instructions for drawing the skirt pattern.

** T-Square   **Yard stick   **Pattern paper, newspaper or brown grocery bag to draw the pattern on

A.  Begin by making a "T" - the top of the "T" is equal to your waist measurement divided by 6.  This sample has a waist of 30", so divide 30" by 6 to equal 5".  The vertical line (drawn from the center of the top line) is the skirt length, and our sample is 24".

B.  The hipline is normally 8" below the waist, so at that point you'll make a horizontal like equal to hip divided by 6 + 1/4".  Our sample hip measurement is 42", so the horizontal line is 7 plus 1/4" or 7 1/4".

C.  With a straight yardstick, draw in the outside lines of the skirt, connecting the waist to hip to the bottom and draw in the bottom line.

D.  At the top center of the "T" measure down 1/4" and make the slight waistline curve.  The outside edges of the bottom are measured up 1/4" each and the slight hemline curve drawn.

E.  Make your waistband to equal your waist measurement plus 1 1/2" (for overlap), and the width is 2 1/2" (your finished waistband will be 1 1/4" wide).

Remember you have not allowed for seams or hem yet.  You'll need to mark 5/8" seams all around. 

Adding seam allowances

A 5/8" seam allowance needs to be added to the waistband and to the sides/top of the skirt.  A 3" hem will be added to the bottom of the skirt.

Estimated Fabric Requirements

44" or 54" wide material requires 2 skirt lengths (your skirt length) plus 8" (3" hem for each skirt length plus 5/8" waistline seam for each skirt length)for all sizes.  To determine the required fabric width, use the largest measurement -- hip or lower edge of the skirt, whichever the case may be.  If you are using plaid or checked material, or material with a nap, such as velvet or corduroy, you will need to purchase 1/4 yard more fabric.

Because this is a 6-gore skirt, you may need an extra skirt length, depending on what your hip/bottom of the skirt measures because you'll be cutting six pieces (6-gore).  You would be able to lay the pattern pieces in both directions on the fabric, as long as you use the center skirt line as the straight grain line, and as long as the fabric is not a "one way" direction fabric.   Remember these are estimates only, but should come very close to the amount of fabric you will need.

Laying the fabric on the fabric

The pattern piece can be laid in both directions on
the fabric, as long as you don't have a "one directional" fabric design. 
The width of the fabric and your particular hip measurement will determine the layout of the pattern.  Because you will have only one pattern piece, and need to cut six, it will be best to lay the pattern piece in different positions until you see which position fits best.

Sewing the skirt

1.  With right sides together, pin and sew the side seams, leaving one seam open to insert a 9" zipper.

2. Sewing in the Zipper

The lapped zipper is typically used for skirts and slacks where the zippers are on the side or center back.

Sew the garment seam to the point where the zipper will be inserted (A).  Press open the seam allowance for the zipper the length of the zipper tape.

Place the garment right side up and fold back the left seam allowance (B).  Working on the right seam allowance, slide out and pin this seam allowance 1/4" beyond the pressed seam line.  With the zipper closed and right
side up, position one edge of the zipper teeth next to the folded extended seam allowance.  Pin the zipper in place.  Using a zipper foot and starting from the bottom of the zipper, stitch
close to the folded edge of the seam allowance the entire length of the zipper.

With the right side of the garment facing up, pin the other seam allowance over the closed zipper so that it conceals the zipper and the other stitching (C).  
Machine stitch a line parallel to the seam fold and 1/2" away from the fold, through all layers of the fabric, the zipper tape, and across the bottom of the zipper (D).  This will complete the installation.

3.  Attaching the waistband.

Pin-mark the waistband and garment into sections, marking the waistband along the edge that will be sewn to the garment.  Place a pin at the beginning of the overlap (B), and another at the beginning of the underlap.  divide the remainder of the band into fourths and pin.  Pin the garment waistline also into four equal parts (C), using the zipper opening as the starting point.

With the right sides together (D), pin the waistband to the garment, matching the pin marks.  Stitch along the seamline.  Press the seam flat, then grade the seam allowances.  Press the waistband and seam to the upward position (E).  Next turn the 5/8" seam allowance on the long unstitched edge of the waistband to the wrong side and press.

Fold the waistband along the
foldline so that the waistband is wrong side out, with the right sides together (F).  Fold the waistband ends in.  Pin at each end and stitch on the 5/8" seamline or press the seam down.  Trim the corners and turn the waistband right side out.

Pull the corners out so they
are square (G).  Pin the turned under seam allowance to the garment.  Slipstitch the folded edge to the seamline, making certain that no stitches show through to the outside.  Attach suitable fasteners to the ends of the waistband.

4.  Hemming the skirt

The uneven slipstitch is a durable and almost invisible stitch suitable for a folded hem edge.  Stitches are worked from right to left.  Fasten the thread, bringing the needle and thread out through the fold of the hem. 
Opposite, in the garment, take a small stitch, catching only a few yarns.  Opposite that stitch, in the hem edge, insert the needle and slip through the fold for about 1/4". 
continue alternating the stitches in this fashion.

You can purchase the entire volume of pattern making for skirts by clicking on the link below.  You will have available and be able to learn how to make virtually every style of skirt, including gathered waists, waists with darts and pleats, circular skirts, and the ever popular split skirts. Best of all, they will all fit perfectly because you'll be using YOUR OWN MEASUREMENTS for
each pattern!

 PM-1OOl - Make Your own Skirt Patterns $9.95

PMF-1OO1 - Make Your own
Full Figure Skirt Patterns $9.95

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