Freediver

Freedive training is based on a knowledge of the effects of apnea on the physiology of the freediver. The diver's metabolism provides energy, by consuming oxygen O2 and produces ever increasing levels of carbon dioxide CO2 and lactate which reach toxic levels.

The object of freedive training is to condition the body to tolerate increased levels of metabolic toxins (CO2/Lactate) produced in a depleted O2 environment, while improving cardiovascular and pulmonary function.

Training should never consist of ever increasing dynamic apnea distances. This only serves to reinforce the body's protective mechanism (increased susceptibility to Shallow Water Blackout). It is far more beneficial to perform multiple short dynamic apnea cycles to allow conditioning of the body to tolerate higher levels of metabolic toxins. The exercise program encourages a physiological super compensation/adaptation to allow for greater tolerance to these toxins.

The nature and extent of compensation/adaptation is unique to each diver and will depend on the nature and extent of the training regimen.

The goal of training is to increase the level of O2 supply and consumption as well as increasing cellular productivity. How O2 is supplied and consumed will be dependant on cardiovascular and pulmonary conditioning. Cellular productivity is reliant on the capacity of the body to maintain homeostasis in an environment of decreased O2 and increased CO2.

1. Swimming: (improved O2 metabolism) 400-800m crawl, breathe on every 5th, 7th or 9th stroke. The exercise may be modified for finning by breathing on every 3rd, 4th or 5th kick cycle. Workload should gradually increase to avoid headaches(cerebral vasoconstriction). Begin with 4X100m lengths, breathing on every 5th stroke or 3rd kick cycle. The workload can gradually increase as the diver feels the training sessions become easier.

2. Variable training (Fartlek): (improved cardiovascular function) 400-600m swimming or finning. Alternate between swimming 25m underwater then 75m along the surface or finning 25m underwater followed by 25m along the surface.

3. Interval training: (increased physiological productivity) 8X25m dynamic apnea lengths building to 24X25m dynamic apnea lengths with recovery intervals of 8 slow, deep breaths. When comfortable with this routine begin reducing the number of recovery breaths. The idea is to create a build up of CO2 and lactate during the dynamic apnea phase without allowing complete clearance during the recovery phase. This builds tolerance to these metabolic toxins.

4. Repetitive training: (functional adjustment) 300m warm-up: swimming crawl: breathing at strokes 3,5,7,7,5,3 or finning: breathing at kick cycles 3,4,5,5,4,3. The exercise consists of swimming 2-6 repetitions of 70-90% of your dynamic apnea maximum e.g. your dynamic apnea max is 100m, only swim 70-90m during this exercise. Each dynamic apnea swim is followed by a rest period allowing complete recovery.

When embarking on a freedive training program, your training routine should aim firstly to increase your pulmonary capacity, secondly improve cardiovascular workload and thirdly improve O2 utilization and increase metabolic productivity.

The exercise load should be determined by your present ability and not by your projected goals.

(Editor: This article proved extremely difficult to understand in its original format. I trust I have done the author and the article justice)

I hope my readers enjoy a good giggle. I have been such an idiot. I train diligently and after working through the Molchanova article I started incorporating some of her ideas into my training. I started out thinking: "Wow, this is so easy!" Then came the realization. I had over-estimated the length of the pool I was training in. How stupid can you be?

I have now modified my training and am enjoying the new approach. Please, if you embark on FREEDIVE training, don't take chances when performing dynamic apnea swims. SHALLOW WATER BLACKOUT is a very real risk and it happens quickly without warning.

I have found a novel way to train and reduce the risk of SWB. I do all my freedive training wearing my basic kit (fins, mask, snorkel). This helps to condition my calves and ankles for the long hours spent finning in the ocean while SPEARFISHING. I do not perform any dynamics underwater anymore. I fin along the surface holding my breath with a clear snorkel. My idea is that should I experience an incidence of SWB, my ability to breathe should be ensured. The effect on my training has been dramatic. I am able to relax and put in the effort needed to improve without being reliant on some-one watching over me at every training session.

A Brief description of what I do to keep fit when I am not in the water. This approach should help those starting out to acquire an adequate level of fitness to participate safely in this extreme sport.

Success in Spearfishing is dependent on attitude and motivation. Part of that will be reflected in your ability to become fit and stay fit. 1 Parachute Battalion had a great motto: "TRAIN HARD, FIGHT EASY".

When it comes to Spearfishing we could say: "TRAIN HARD, FISH EASY".

Day 1: Upper body work-out

Bench press
Shoulder press
Lateral pull-down
Bicep curl
Tricep extention

Perform 3 sets per exercise at approximately 50-70% of maximum. You should feel comfortable with the weight. Concentrate on proper form and technique, not on huge weights! The type of exercise can be substituted if you are more comfortable with another exercise or you become bored with the routine.

15-30 minutes on an orbital aerobic machine (treadmill, bicycle or rowing machine can be substituted). The length of time and the level of resistance will be determined by your level of fitness.

Day 2: Aerobic training
Aerobic weight circuit of approximately 45 minutes. Perform the exercises with light weights and high frequency. Keep in control of the moving weight to avoid injury. The circuit I use allows 50 seconds for each exercise with 10 seconds to move to the next machine. I use a step machine between each exercise.
Follow with 15-30 minutes on the orbital machine.

Day 3: Rest

Day 4: Lower body work-out

Leg extentions
Leg curls
Calf raises
Abdominal crunches
Side stretches
Back extentions
15-30 minutes on the orbital machine

Day 5: Aerobic circuit training

Day 6: Rest

I use the time travelling to and from work to practice and train my breathing using a Powerlung (link included below). The training routine is as described in the Powerlung Training Manual.
Several similar devices are available.

I do try to practice static breathholds regularly. Most of the training for statics centres around my relaxation method. I will do 5-10 2 minute breathholds per training session and only occasionlly concentrate on maximums of 4 minutes or longer.

I have performed dynamic breathholds while exercising on an orbital aerobic walking machine. At this stage I am usually very tired and only attempt to hold my breath for 20 steps at a time. Again I would perform 5-10 of these in a session. This can be incorporated into your 15-30 minute aerobic sessions as indicated previously.

With the approach of a competition or a spearfishing trip, I start performing dynamic pool sessions. For me this is also an opportunity to strengthen my ankles and calves and re-acquaint myself with my basic gear.

I have incorporated many of Molchanova's suggestions into my routine. Within 3 weeks of a competition I will typically add a pool session of approx 1.5 hours a day, after the upper or lower body work-outs. These replace the circuit training sessions. The pool sessions comprise 30 swimming lengths, 30 Fartlek lengths, 30 interval lengths and approx 5 repetitive sessions as described above.

SHALLOW WATER BLACKOUT. I should warn anyone who attempts dynamic apnoea to do so only with some-one watching you. I have heard of many fatal accidents involving this form of training. Swim at the surface with your snorkel clear.

There are a multitude of very good masks available today. This is a far cry from what was originally available. There are specialized masks for SCUBA, Underwater Hockey, Freediving, Spearfishing and so on. I am going to begin by making the statement that this article deals with masks for recreational Freediving. Competitive Freediving passed 40m is a very specialized field and something I know very little about.

What should you be looking for in the ideal Freediving/Spearfishing mask?

You walk into the local dive-shop and are confronted by a wide array of choices. My personal choice is to look for a mask made of silicone rubber with a two tempered glass lenses and a nose pocket. Avoid masks with additional side glass panels or single lenses because the compromise is an increase in the inside mask volume (These masks are really suitable for SCUBA or Freediving in shallow areas or snorkelling i.e. sight-seeing).

I prefer a black mask over clear silcone as I find the additional light casts a reflection on the inside of the lenses which can be distracting. This is a personal preference as some divers feel that clear silicone allows them to pick up peripheral movement faster than would be the case with limited peripheral vision offered by black.

The clincher for me is the mask volume. I am even prepared to forego some peripheral vision for reduced internal volume. A mask with a small internal volume has the lens very close to your eyes. Hold a finger to the side of the mask, gradually moving it forward until you can see it. You will get an idea of the loss of peripheral vision. There will always be a compromise between internal volume and lens size. No-one is able to accurately predict your exact requirements. Much of this will be determined by personal preference, experience and requirement(peripheral vision vs internal volume).

Does the mask fit your face? Seat the mask on your face without using the retaining strap around the back of your head. Breath in through your nose - creating a negative pressure inside of the mask. Does it seal? Now shake your head gently from side to side. The mask should sit securely on your face without the seal being broken. My preference is for a wide silcone apron against my face. After 6-8hrs of diving, a narrow apron will begin to cause discomfort as a result of pressure against your face.

Your mask should be simple. The less intricate and detailed, the less can go wrong. Look for a comfortable retaining strap and buy a spare. The strap should be easily adjustable and the mechanism should be simple and easy to operate.

Get a plastic box with your mask to protect it while being transported. Make a point of putting your mask into the box to protect it. Rough boat rides are notorious for smashing lenses.

Several manufacturers have moved into the camoflage range offering reef camo(green), Mediterranean camo(brown) or open water camo(blue). If you don't like the colour, take a good look at the mask because these masks often have all the ideal characteristics of a Freediving mask. I certainly approve of many of the these mask's characteristics. Some producers have even gone as far as producing one way/polarized lenses. The idea is to avoid fish seeing your eyes. I have no experience with these masks but the idea appeals to me, I would be concerned about how much light you would see at depth 20m+.

Care of your mask.
Silicone masks require little more than a casual rinse in fresh water after a trip. They will last a long time and are worth their price. Always remember to be pedantic about using your mask box to protect your mask.

New masks will mist up if not properly cleaned inside with toothpaste or dishwashing liquid. Take time to do this before you first use the mask or you will be disappointed with the mask until the protective layer is removed from the inside of the mask.

When using a mask, spit onto the lenses, use Aqua Drops or a product called Whale Spit to rub on the inside of the lenses to prevent fogging. You should not have hair or any part of your wetsuit trapped under the apron of the mask. I make a point a being clean shaven because the lightest stubble affects the mask's seal. I even find that sunblock prevents a good seal. Adjust the retaining strap to comfortably hold the mask against your face. The strap should not be necessary for sealing the mask. The position of the strap behind your head will affect how wave/surge action moves your mask and even breaks the seal. It will also determine the alignment of your snorkel, allowing more water to splash in or preventing excessive water splashing into your snorkel. It is therefore necessary to adjust this according to prevailing circumstances.

This simple piece of equipment is often under-rated. Select a simple, dependable snorkel made of silicone. There are several points to consider when purchasing a snorkel:

1. Length of snorkel. The longer the tube, the less water will enter from surface splashes but the more energy is expended in moving air through the snorkel.

2. Snorkel bore. The larger the bore, the more readily air moves through but the more difficult it is to keep water out or clear water with a blast of air.

The optimal snorkel is as short as is practical and as wide a bore as possible. The simple J-type snorkel is a good starting point.

With modern advances in the study of ergonomics, you are unlikely to find any of the classic old snorkels. Most are shaped around the contours of the average person's head. An ergonomically shaped snorkel with a soft silicone mouthpiece is functional and dependable.

Some of the newer snorkels have valves to assist with the drainage of water. One of my pet peeves is the rattling sound, small quantities of water, trapped in the snorkel tube, make, when air flows over it. I have found that the drainage valve at the bottom of the snorkel near the mouth piece does reduce this irritation. Another interesting snorkel has this drain together with a valve to limit water splashing into the snorkel. I see the guys on 'Ocean Hunter' regularly using this type of snorkel.

I like a snorkel with a flexible bend, this allows the snorkel mouthpiece to fit comfortably into my mouth. After 6 to 8 hours in the water, even the smallest rough edge becomes a major distraction.

When attaching the snorkel to the mask strap, experiment with the position on the mask strap. This will allow you to find the optimal position for the snorkel to limit water splashing in and allow ease of clearance.

When you leave the surface, do you remove the snorkel from your mouth or keep it in place? There are people that argue in favour of both opinions. My preference is to remove the snorkel from my mouth to prevent any errant air bubbles scaring my quarry. Every Spearo needs to determine the optimal approach that suits their style and keeps them comfortable in the Ocean.

Coming soon