How To Make A Multiple Bound Guitar Fingerboard

Standard guitar sized fingerboard blanks are commonly sold in ebony or rosewood. They are normally about 28" X 3 1/2" X 5/8" and are usually just rough cut although some supply companies will flat sand them for you. I recommend getting your fingerboard blanks at Luthiers Mercantile.

The first thing to do is to run one edge of the board long-ways through a joiner to give it a true edge on one side. This will later serve as a smooth straight edge while using the bandsaw.

Next, using a bandsaw trim the board to the desired width. A good width to start out with is around 2 ½ inches. When cutting set the bandsaws guide as close to the wood as possible to get the best cutting accuracy and also it is safer in the event of a snapped blade.

Next, Using a timesaver flat sanding machine or a good planer the board must be brought down to the desired thickness. I take mine down to ¼ of an inch thick at this stage, continuously flipping the board so wood is taken off from both sides.

Next the board is put through a radius sanding machine which runs the sanding belt under a steel guide-block (right) that has a machined radius, usually around a 12" to 14" radius curve. This puts the radius or "crown" on the fingerboard. Sand the board until the crown cleans up evenly and the total thickness is .240 (ten thousandths thinner then ¼ inch).

You are now ready to layout the fretslots. First you will need to determine what scale length you want. On a longer scale fingerboard the frets are further apart from each other while the short scale fingerboards frets are closer together. Solid body guitars are usually 24 ¾ scale meaning the length measuring from the guitars nut to the bridge is 24 ¾" long. Typically the large archtop jazz guitars are 25 ½ scale. There are also guitars that use 25 scale and 23 ½ . There is a formula to figure out the fret slot placement but the easy way is to simply copy the slot measurements from another guitar that you know you like the frets on.
This can be done using "baseline" measuring. Meaning you measure from the nut to the first fret, then from the nut to the second fret, then from the nut to the third as opposed to measuring from fret to fret, which will cause a chain of inaccuracy as you go down the board. So using the baseline method, write down the measurements using the center of the fret each time you take a measurement.

Next it's time to cut the fret slots. Using a backsaw with a .020 to .025 thick blade cut the slots until the slot is about 65 to 70% through the thickness of the fingerboard. This should leave you with a slot that is around .025 wide. Now obtain fretwire that has a tang thickness of around .030 to .035. (the tang is the part of the wire that will be forced into the slot.)
If all this seems too involved, you can buy fingerboards that are already machined, radiuses and slotted. You can then send them to a custom inlay shop to have your inlays put in. You can buy these fingerboards and all other needs such as fretwire, inlays and tools at Luthiers Mercantile or Stewart Macdonald.

What you do next is a matter of opinion. Some companies now glue the fingerboard to the neck and the frets will be put in after the guitar is built, while a few old timers build the entire board before neck-fitting. I am one of those old timers. (well I learned from one.) Doing it this way enables you to put fancy binding work around the fingerboard more easily.
You are now ready to put in the fretslots. Start by using a hand held radius block to fine tune your radius, checking it with a radius gauge. Next, check the back side of the fingerboard for flatness. Using a hand held scraper that has a convex radius scarpe the center of the back of the board a little so that light shows in the middle when you hold a flat piece of metal up to it with a light behind it. Do not over do this! Just a slight bit of light showing through is enough. This will avoid cracking inlays when you later press the frets in.
Next if you want inlays it is time to route the inlay cavities. This inlay work can be sent to specialty shops or done yourself.

Take your inlays and stick them to the board using double sided tape. Situate the inlays centered exactly as you want them, then spray paint the entire board with a contrasting color. (this paint will get sanded off later) This will now leave your layout pattern when you remove the inlays. Now you can use an overhead router or hand chisels to cut the cavities, taking care to make the cavities just the right size so that the inlays fit as tightly as possible. Inlays are usually .050 thick so your cavities should ideally be around .060 deep to allow for glue. Mix some epoxy glue and add a small amount of sawdust from the fingerboard to tint the glues color. This will make it harder to see any glue lines around the inlays. Paint the glue into the cavities using enough glue so that there is squeeze-off all around the inlay when you put the inlay into the cavity. Put the inlay in lightly at first and go to the next one and so on. Then, once all the inlays are in, using a razor blade lightly press the inlay in without going below the wood. Hold the razor blade parallel to the fingerboard when doing this and press in the very center of the board.
After the glue is completely dry use a hand file to file the inlays smooth and then use a hand-held radius block .(left)to sand the inlays until smooth and all glue is removed and the desired radius of the board is achived. This fingerboard I am building shown in the pictures has a 12" radius.

Next use your backsaw and clean any glue that may have gotten into the fret slots during the inlay work.

Now it is time to put the taper shape on the fingerboard. The simplest way is to draw the taper lines in pencil and use a flat sander to sand the edges of the board down to the pencil lines. This needs to be measured with the binding thickness in mind. If your fingerboard is to be say 1 ¾ wide at the nut when finished, then you must subtract the thickness of the binding before drawing the pencil lines. On a board 1 ¾ wide at the nut, the width at the 12th fret is usually around 2.065 but this can vary on different models and is a mater of preference.

Now that the taper is on the board it is time to shape the end of the board with what is called a cupids bow. The end of the board (the wide end of course) put a shape on it which is shaped a bit like a archers bow. This needs to be done carefully so that the point turns out centered and the rounded corners are symmetrical.


Next take a piece of softwood like pine that is 4" wide or so and place 4 pieces of 2" wide masking tape on the wood on top of each other and using a razor blade trim the tape to a taper shape that is smaller than the fingerboard and runs the length of the fingerboard. Now lay the board on top of this tape so that now the tape is holding the board around .012 to .014 above the wood and no tape is showing beyond the fingerboards edges. Now place a small strip of wood that is around ¾ of an inch thick and use two c-clamps to press the fingerboard flat against the tape. Now take a piece of layered abs plastic that has four layers: a black layer, a white layer, then another black layer and a white layer. First join one edge of the plastic. Put the smooth joined edge aginst the bandsaws fence and cut a piece that is several inches longer than the board and about .0250 in width. Repeat this process once more to make a second piece of binding. Now using binding glue that is acetone based, glue the binding on each side of the board with the white side against the wood and leave the ends sticking out two inches past the cupids bow area. Take care to get no glue past the last fret slot. Now let the glue dry for an hour. Now take small finishing nails and tap a nail into the wood right beside the plastic at the last fret and angle the nail inward slightly, pressing against the plastic as you nail it in pressing the plastic against the wood. Next take a bic lighter and gently warm the plastic in the area where it will be bent around the rounded corner and then quickly bend the plastic around the corner. Now heat the next part of the plastic where it curves to the point and use a small rounded piece of wood to press the plstic and hold it there for a few seconds. Now put some binding glue on the wood and begin toe nailing the plastic up against the wood.
When you put it the last nail try to keep it away from the point just a little.
Now use a razor-knife to cut the excess plastic off the end. Place the point of your knife on the plastic right over the tip of the wood, holding the knife parallel to the fingerboard and cut straight down.
Next, repeat the process on the other side. Once you have heated the plastic and the bends are made, You need to hold the plastic in using a rounded stick of wood and carefully cut the estimated angle on the plastic trying to LEAVE IT LONG. Now press it in and see how it fits. The object is to trim it so that the black and white layers all line up with each other when glued in place. This is tricky and takes practice.
Now the board needs to dry for 24 hours. Next file the top of the cupids bows plastic down smooth with the wood.
Next, use your backsaw to cut slots in the plastic where the fret slots are.
Now that the taper is on the board it is a good time to re-check the radius and make sure it is good. OK now it is time to shape the end of the board with what is called a cupids bow. The end of the board (the wide end of course) put a shape on it similar to this symbol: } which is shaped a bit like a archers bow. This needs to be done carefully so that the point turns out centered and the rounded corners are symmetrical.

Next take a piece of softwood like pine that is 4" wide or so and place 4 pieces of 2" wide masking tape on the wood on top of each other and using a razor blade trim the tape to a taper shape that is smaller than the fingerboard and runs the length of the fingerboard. Now lay the board on top of this tape so that now the tape is holding the board around .012 to .014 above the wood and no tape is showing beyond the woods edges. Now place a small strip of wood that is around ¾ of an inch thick and use two c-clamps to press the fingerboard flat against the tape. Now take a piece of layered abs plastic that has four layers: a black layer, a white layer, then another black layer and a white layer. First join one edge of the plastic. Put the smooth joined edge aginst the bandsaws fence and cut a piece that is several inches longer than the board and about .0250 in width. Repeat this process once more to make a second piece of binding. Now using binding glue that is acetone based glue the binding on each side of the board with the white side against the wood and leave the ends sticking out two inches past the cupids bow area. Take care to get no glue past the last fret slot. Now let the glue dry for an hour. Now take small finishing nails and tap a nail into the wood right beside the plastic at the last fret and angle the nail inward slightly, pressing against the plastic as you nail it in pressing the plastic against the wood. Next take a bic lighter and gently warm the plastic in the area where it will be bent around the rounded corner and then quickly bend the plastic around the corner. Now heat the next part of the plastic where it curves to the point and use a small rounded piece of wood to press the plastic and hold it there for a few seconds. Now put some binding glue on the wood and begin toe nailing the plastic up against the wood.
When you put it the last nail try to keep it away from the point just a little.
Now use a razor-knife to cut the excess plastic off the end. Place the point of your knife on the plastic right over the tip of the wood, holding the knife parallel to the fingerboard and cut straight down.
Next, repeat the process on the other side. Once you have heated the plastic and the bends are made, You need to hold the plastic in using a rounded stick of wood and carefully cut the estimated angle on the plastic trying to LEAVE IT LONG. Now press it in and see how it fits. The object is to trim it so that the black and white layers all line up with each other when glued in place. This is tricky and takes practice.
Now the board needs to dry for 24 hours.


Next file the top of the cupids bows plastic down smooth with the wood. Use a course file at first switching to finer files as you go. If done carefully it looks like the one on the right. You will also need to bring the plastic down flush with the wood all the way down the board. To do this start by using a sharp razor-knife to trim the plastic down close to the wood, then file the last bit off with a medium course file,
then touch up the fine scratches using a radius block & sandpaper.
Next, use your backsaw to cut slots in the plastic where the fret slots are.

Next rub some wood glue into the fingerboard working the glue down into the fret slots. Now use a wet sponge to wipe the excess glue from the board leaving glue in the fret slots. Let this glue tack up for at least ten minutes.

While you let the glue tac up you need to pre-radius your fretwire to a slightly tighter curve than your board is. In other words if the fingerboard is at 12" radius then radius the wire to around 9". This puts the tension at the center of the board rather than the edges, which would cause the ends of the fretwire to tend to pop up in some cases. A good way to do this is to use a piece of 3/8" steel hydrolic tubing 7" long and bent to around a 20" radius of just bend it over your knee and experiment until you get your desired radius when you push the wire through the tubing.

Next take a piece of fret wire and lightly tap just the ends of the wire into the fret slot. Do this all the way down the board leaving the center of the fretwire up for now.

Now using an anvil press, press the frets in with enough pressure to seat them without crushing the wood. You can also tap them in using a radius block and a lightweight hammer. Leave around 1/8th of an inch of over hang on each side.

After the frets are in take the board and carefully sand the ends of the fretwire off until the edge is smooth but no plastic is removed.
Now you are ready to put the outer layer of plastic onto the board usually the choice for this is white ABS plastic. Use the same heating and bending method as before wrapping the cupids bow.
Now let this dry for 24 hours. Now use a thin sharp kitchen knife to peel the fingerbasord from the pine board.
Next the back of the fingerboard must be scraped using a convex curved scraper making the back of the board slightly concave.
Now file the plastic down smooth to the surface of the fingerboard being careful not to nick the edges of the fretwire. Next take a sharp razor blade and use it to lightly scrape the wood to get out any scratches in the wood or inlays. Now wrap a piece of 180 grit sandpaper around the razor blade and lightly sand the wood in between the frets to clean things up. Now hit the entire board with a green scatchy pad.

Next scrape the back of the fingerboard using a wood scaper that has a slight radius. The object here is primarily to clean up the plastic down flush with the wood, but also to make syre there are no high spots in the center of the board, as these will cause the inlays to crack when pressing in the fretwire and edges of the board to show gaps after being glued onto the neck. This job requires both hands on the scraper but I had to hold the camera with somthing!