How To Make Paper

Cowgirl is an example of my work. She is an oil pastel painting done on a sheet of Connie's acid free handmade paper and is approximately 10 1/2 x 13"

I've become enamored with using handmade paper for my oil pastels. The small format allows for quick and easy expression of my work, without all the huge thought processes of larger more complicated work. Plus I love those nubbely edges.

I had always thought making paper was a difficult and lengthy process. But after spending a day actually doing it, I was surprised at how easy it actually was.

Cowgirl (and many others) are available in print at my website Wild Faces Gallery

I recently spent a day with Connie Herring, an artist friend of mine, making paper. The two things that surprised me most about making paper was how easy it was to do, and also how physically demanding it was. After making 100 sheets I was pretty much exhausted.

Connie is a multi-talented artist. She works in a variety of media and does all sorts of fantastical and technical creations. She is primarily an installation artist, though she creates sculpture, handmade paper and books, weavings on commission, and designs personal jewelry upon request. But arguably more important than that, she is a good spirit and one of the nicest people I know. Visit her website, www.connieherring.com I encourage you to do so.

Connie makes a variety of papers and has even made paper by recycling old library cards from card catalogs, (This paper probably can't be considered archival because of the ink they used at the time, but the cards are 100% cotton). She also makes paper from Abaca, cotton, and linen linters. Linters are large, thick sheets of compressed fibers which she orders from various paper making supply places.

Much of the content here is in Connie's own words.

Step1. Tear the linters up and soak them in water over night. (Photo Above is soaking linters) I usually measure the weight amount in each bucket so that if I have to add color or a sizing, I know how much to add to the amount of paper.

Step 2.The next day I "beat" the torn up paper. I use a disposal which has been mounted under a table which is open at the bottom. I put the soaked, torn paper by the hand full into the disposal while spraying in water from the faucet. It comes out the bottom into a 5 gallon bucket as paper pulp. There's lots of water involved so things get pretty wet all around.

After beating, if sizing or dyes are going to be added, it is done so at this point.

Note: Connie makes a lot of paper, so she has more serious equipment. For smaller batches, a blender can work for this step as well. It just takes a whole lot longer

(Photo is of Connie using her disposal to "beat" the paper.)

Step 3. From there the pulp is put into a vat of water. There is a lot of water in relation to the pulp and the ratio of water to pulp determines the thickness of the paper. The more pulp the heavier the paper.

(Photo is Connie skimming off some extra water.)

Step 4. To prepare for the stacking of paper sheets that goes into the press, first a board is laid in place. Followed by three sheets of wool and one sheet of felt. (Connie used an old wool blanket washed many times and cut to size for the paper. The blanket/wool is for water absorption and cushioning between sheets.)

Step 5. Next I get the mold and deckle that I want to use for the size of paper needed. The mold is a frame covered with screen. The deckle is like a frame that fits over the mold. Inside the frame, on the screen is where the sheet of paper is formed.

Step 6. Next I mix the pulp/water mix so the pulp is evenly suspended in the vat, by gentle running my hand through it. I hang onto the mold and deckle on two sides and cut it into the vat. I pull the mold/deckle up, and let it drain. There is a sheet of paper on the mold at this point

(Photo here shows the mold and deckle after a sheet of paper has been pulled.)

Step 7.Carefully remove the deckle and "couch" the sheet of paper onto a felt. (A felt traditionally is a special piece of felt used specifically for paper making. Connie uses a synthetic felt.)

"Couching" is the term used for the process of turning the mold upside down (no worries about it falling off the mold . . . it won't) and putting the paper pulp onto the felt.

(Photo is me "couching" a sheet of paper.)

Then place another felt onto the newly couched paper. Then add another sheet of wool followed by another sheet of felt. Then pull another sheet of paper and repeat the process.

Step 8. I will build a stack of paper like this until I have about 25 sheets. I then put three more sheets of wool over the last felt and add the board on top of the stack and place into a press.

I tighten the press as far as possible to eliminate as much water as possible. I let the paper set in the press for at least a 1/2 hour, (occasionally going back to squeeze the press a little tighter) and while it's setting, I make another stack of paper.

Step 9. After at least 30 minutes have passed, I remove papers from the press and lay the paper out to dry.

(Photo is me removing papers from the press.)

First I pull off the wool sheet, then grasp both felts (upper and lower) with the sheet of fresh made paper between. These are then laid out on cardboard and allowed to dry for a couple of days, while still in the felts.

Air circulation is helpful, but you don't want any direct air blowing on them. Be sure to allow them to dry thoroughly before handling or they will not set up properly. After a couple of days of dry time, you can stack them up and set them for a couple of weeks before using, just to make sure they cure properly.

It's really very basic, but it takes awhile to get consistent sheets. Connie gets much of her paper making supplies from Twinrocker, Their web site is www.twinrocker.com