How to Make Envelopes

1. You will have to add a white mailing label to the front of the envelope for the address. Patterned papers could cause a lot of mailing problems if you don't do this.

2. Check the size. According to the US Postal Service, envelopes can be no smaller than 5" wide by 3 1/2" tall to be sent through the mail.

If you'd like more information on Mailpiece Dimensions, here's a link to the US Postal Service: Mailpiece Dimensions

Materials:
Envelope (for making a pattern/template)
Paper (a lot more on this - scroll down)
Scissors
Pencil
Glue stick

Optional materials:
Cardboard
Ruler
Butter knife for scoring the paper

To the right you see some miscellaneous envelopes I keep in a craft drawer with my greeting cards. Look the different shapes of the flaps. Some are pointed and some are square. You can duplicate any envelope you want to, but some require larger paper than others. Envelopes with square flaps use less paper than pointed ones. This might not be an issue if you are making small envelopes, but larger ones will need larger paper.



The envelopes to the left are exactly the same finished size. You can see that there's a big difference in overall size between the two. Most of the paper I'll be working with (scrapbooking paper) comes in sizes up to 12" x 12" so I always choose envelopes that will fit on that size. I'm choosing the envelope on the left.

Any paper that can be folded and is large enough is fair game for envelope making. Here are some ideas:










Scrapbook paper
Old maps
Old magazines and catalogs
Wallpaper sample pages
Wrapping paper
Last year's calendar

1. Open up the envelope you've chosen along the glue lines
Once you choose the envelope you want to duplicate, carefully open it out flat. It's ok if it tears a little - they usually do. Do try to keep the edges of the envelope intact so you can trace it easily.





2. Check the size.
Now check the size of the envelope when it is opened up by laying it on top of your paper. The envelope I'm working with requires 12 x 12" paper and I'm satisfied with that size. If I didn't have paper large enough, I'd go back and pick a smaller envelope.



3. Trace the envelope onto cardstock.
This step is optional now that you have the envelope opened up. You can use the envelope itself as your template, but the paper is thin and hard to trace. I really like this envelope shape and size so I'm going to make a more durable template to use over and over again. It's important to trace the envelope accurately.



3. Cut out the template and label it.
Carefully cut out the template. Also, mark your fold lines with a ruler. This will help you visualize what paper patterns or images will end up on the front of the envelope.

1. Check the pattern on the paper.
Is the paper printed so there is a definite "up" and "down" (for example, words are printed on the paper and need to be right side up)? Or is it a random pattern where it will not matter? Make sure patterns are right-side-up on the FRONT of the envelope. I know about this because I just cut out an envelope where the pattern was upside down.


2. Trace the template onto your paper and cut it out.
Trace the template onto the BACK of the paper (so no stray pencil marks will show) and cut it out. When I purchased this paper, I didn't realize it was printed on both sides! So the inside of the envelope will be a nice interesting shade of blue. Set the template aside.



3. Score the folds and fold the flaps.
Scoring helps paper (especially heavy papers) fold in the right place. Using the back of a butter knife, score the fold lines and fold the flaps into postition. If the paper you are working with folds easily you can skip the scoring.





4. Glue the flaps.
Look at the envelope you unfolded and take note of where it was glued. Make sure you glue the flaps only where the papers overlap. You don't want to glue the envelope shut!





5. Your envelope is complete.
Congratulations. Now that you are a pro, you can give these interesting envelopes as gifts or save them for your next mailing.