Jet Jewelry and other black jewelry- identification guide

A large pendant cross made of Whitby jet and most likely dating from the Victorian era.This cross measures about 7.75 cms long, 5.5 cms wide and about 0.5 cm deep.

Whitby jet is a very light weight dark black material found only in Whitby in Yorkshire. It was very popular for making black jewellery in the Victorian era and is becoming quite rare and collectable today. This cross is in excellent condition with no chips. It comes with a hanging loop ready to attach to your own chain.

Here is the most amazing genuine Victorian necklace. It is made of hand cut Whitby jet beads, 5 of these are inset with cameos cut from queen conch shell with the distinctive pale pinky/white colour. The cameos are: Lizard, bunch of grapes, bird in branch, classical lady, winged insect. The beads are strung on a double cord and the ends have their original silk ribbon attached. A rare and wonderful piece.

Approx Size: Total length including ribbons is 78 cms. The jet beads measure 1.5 x 2.2 cms each.
( conversion note: 1 inch = 2.54 cms)

Condition:
The jet is in excellent condition as are the cameos . There are 2 inset cameos missing and the ribbon is quite tatty and could do with replacing.

This is currently for sale by AntiquesAvenue on ebay - buy this item and tell me you first saw it on Squidoo - I will ship for free!.

Black Jewelry was very popular in Victorian times. In those days the Queen set the fashions of the day and when her husband Prince Albert died in 1861 she went into deep mourning for him. This mourning extended to her wearing all black clothing and Jewelry until her death in 1901. The rest of the British Empire followed fashion - wearing only black (sometimes for years) following the death of a loved one.

A vast range of materlials were used in Victorian Black mourning Jewelry. Here are the most popular:
Jet ( Whitby, French & other)
Horn
Gutta Percha
Bog Oak
Enamel
Vulcanite
Porcelain

Whitby Jet comes from Whitby on the North East coast of England. It is a natural material which has been formed over millions of years from coal. This is the finest of the forms of jet and was greatly sought after. Whitby jet was carved and shaped into most forms of Victorian Jewelry.

Whitby jet is: Light weight & can be highly polished or left matt. It has a subtle coal smell when you rub it hard and leaves a brown coloured trace if you rub it lightly on a rough surface ( please be very careful not to do this with precious antiques!)

French Jet is a term used for highly polished black Glass in Jewelry. It was cheaper and easier to produce than Whitby Jet. The Georgian mourining brooch shown inthis picture has French Jet stones around the central locket.

You can tell French Jet from Whitby jet by considering the following: Frnech jet is heavier & colder to the touch. It will not leave a colour trace when rubbed on a rough surface ( be careful though it will scratch).

Vulcanite was used to mass produce black Victorian Jewelry. It is made from hardened rubber and the design was molded into it. This process allowed for the design to be far more detailed than was possible with hand carved jet. It was originally aimed at the budget end of the market but is highly sought after today.

The picture shows flower detail from a victorian vulcantite pendant.

Like Jet Vulcanite can leave a brownish mark on a rough surface however there are other way of telling the difference between the two materials:
- Vulcanite smells rubbery where as Jet smells of coal
- Vulcanite has moulded detail, jet is hand carved

The Victorians loved their bracelets - these were often worn on pairs - one on each arm.

Please follw this link for more photos:

pair Victorian Whitby Jet mourning bracelets

Here is a pair of Victorian Whitby Jet bracelets. These are strung on elastic so that they expand to fit over the wrist. It was typical in the Victorian era that bracelets were worn as a pair - one on each wrist.
Age: Mid 1800s

Approx Size:2.25 inches diameter before expansion. The central bead is a little over 1 inch deep

Approx Weight: 25 grams

Country of origin England

Condition:
Excellent antique condition, the elastic has been replaced at some stage. One bead has been chipped on the reverse and mended ( this does not show on the front)

Our Price: £130.00