Painting your house

New Construction

If you are building a new home, think about spending a little extra on the exterior paint job. Builders and customers try to save a few dollars in any area they can. This is unfortunate especially with the exterior painting.
You will have only one chance to have the exterior painting done right and that is the first one. After that it is too late forever unless you want to either sand it all off down to the wood or replace the wood. If done incorrectly it will cost you much more down the road. From the first day, the paint job is protecting your house from the harshness of the weahter. This protection is based on the foundation provided by the primer and caulk. If these items are inferior or missing the paint job will never be right, no matter how much you pay in the future. Every new application of paint will be laid on top of this faulty foundation.
This takes its toll on your homes ability to protect and insulate, and tends to lead to higher maintenance costs in the future. If you have to make a choice, at least budget enough money for the exterior painting and have it done right from primer to finish.

Do It Yourself or Hire a Painting Contractor

If you made it this far, you might be thinking "Do I want to do this?" Whether you do this yourself or not, read through this and follow the steps and you will have a quality job. If you do not do it, make sure they professional you hire, does it correctly. I have been in the painting business for years and I see people who call thenselves professionals, but still take shortcuts. Bu up front with him and Do Not allow shortcuts on the most important part on the longivity of your homes exterior. Although there is a lot to think about and do, be assured that anyone can correctly accomplish their exterior painting project. A lot of the effort is in understanding the steps and using common sense.
You do have a few things to think about before jumping in and starting to paint.
Exterior painting, and all types of painting, is physically challenging. You need to be fit and capable of performing hard work.
You will need to be on ladders at some point. Even short houses will require the use of step ladders and possibly extension ladders.
This can be a dirty job. This is especially true if your home is in bad shape.
If you can handle any of this then go ahead and get started, but if any of the above is a problem consider hiring a qualified professional painter. Finding a painter that is right for you can be a challenge.
I have put together a few thoughts about finding a professional painter. If you already know a good painter then give him/her a call and have a thorough inspection with options, a comprehensive exterior painting proposal. Ask a lot of questions and gain a new understanding of the condition of your home and what it will take to receive a good exterior painting job.

What If Your Exterior Paint Job Could Last Longer

It's amazing that this thin film of primer and paint lasts as long as it does! Exterior house paint must stand up to the most extreme conditions that man and nature can dish out. Plus all buildings, including your home, are constantly moving around and breathing.

This happens as the temperatures rise (expansion) and fall (contraction). To top it off wood is constantly moving, splitting and warping. Now add the weather with wind, dust, rain, hail and snow. The best results will need a good method encompassing all aspects of exterior painting.

Following the best exterior house painting tips and using the best quality materials can add years to the life of the house paint before the need to repaint. Plus using top quality painting products, knowledge and practical experience will result in lower maintenance and less repairs in the future.

To top this off, there will be an increase in the value of your home. It is a win - win situation.

Complete exterior repair and preparation. I will address each of these in future blog additions.

Exterior Paint Problems and Failures
Exterior Repainting Tips and Techniques
Painting Peeling Downspouts and Gutters
Remove Paint Under the Overhang
Remove Rust and Repaint a Lamp Post
The Best Ways to Remove Outdoor Paint

Choose the correct painting tools.

Check the weather forecast before starting the job. Rain or high wind can cut a day of painting short and ruin what's already been applied. Today's exterior latex is fast drying, but it still needs time to dry before getting rained on. Oil-based paint definitely needs curing time; check the manufacturer's recommendations. Paint when temperatures are above 50° and below 85°. Heavy rain or high humidity on a newly painted uncured surface can cause blistering.

Set the ladder up.

Cover bushes, flowerbeds, decks and sidewalks with dropcloths. Tie back shrubs to prevent them from rubbing against fresh paint.

Paint the windows and trim first; otherwise, a ladder leaning against your newly painted siding will leave marks. Don't close the windows completely after painting to prevent sticking. Leave a very small strip of paint around the edges of the windowpanes to seal out the weather.

Paint the siding next. Start at the top, painting horizontally as you work your way down. Use a scaffold if possible,or move the ladder regularly. Over-reaching on a ladder is dangerous; plus the paint application will be uneven if you can't see the lap marks well.

Paint the foundation last.

Avoid painting in direct sun. Paint the west-facing side in the morning and the east in the afternoon.
Next to using top quality paint, exterior paint preparation is the most important house painting technique. Inadequate or incomplete painting preparation is the major reason for failures of the finish.

Often the exterior needs the most time and effort to prepare due to the many surfaces exposed to the harsh weather and intense sunlight.

The preparation can amount to 50% or more of the time it takes to paint a house.

You will want to know the extent of the surface preparation needed to be done to your home. A thorough and complete examination of the entire home is in order. Take your time and pay special attention to the areas that need to be fixed.

Typical areas of concern are fascia boards, wood trim and windows or doors. Severely split or rotten wood should be replaced. Light damage can be repaired with epoxy wood filler or for light rot you can use bonding glue.

Avoid Future Repairs
Many houses I work on are missing key metal flashings that could have offered protection from rain and ice damage. Instead these homes rely on the caulking and some good luck. Fascia boards should have metal flashing that extends from under the roof over the fascias. This is especially important for directing water into the gutters. This flashing can be installed if it is missing.

Windows and doors should also have flashing, called drip edge, and is installed during the initial construction. Many older homes are missing this flashing and rely on the caulking to create a water proof seal.

The condition of the paint can indicate where possible problems are. Peeling or blistering can point to water leaks are and could also show up as discolored areas. The existence of persistent moisture will cause peeling and can involve mold and mildew. Fully remove the mold and mildew then repair any sources of moisture before applying primer.

Causes of Peeling

Understanding the causes of exterior peeling paint will give you many more years before repainting. The main reason of peeling is water. If water vapor condenses underneath the primer or finish pressure will result causing the paint to lift from the surface and crack. This crack will be very small, but it will allow more water onto the surface and behind the finish. This process accelerates until you notice peeling paint.

A possible cause of water infiltration is inadequate or split caulking. Applying the best sealant and using proper caulking techniques can make or break any paint job.

An additional area of concern is water vapor in the exterior walls. This can be a major problem with older homes that don't have plastic vapor barriers installed between the framing and drywall or plaster.

If excessive peeling is in the same area as a bathroom it is possible moisture from bathing or showers is entering the exterior wall and causing the peeling. The best solution for this problem is to install an exhaust fan and maintain a lower level of humidity.

Gutters and flashing can leak causing problems to occur on the fascia boards and soffit. Inserting 4-6 inch wide metal flashing under the first course of shingles will block the entry of water behind the fascia and onto the soffit.

An additional and common cause of peeling paint is applying paint to wood siding that should has been stained. Examples of wood siding types that shouldn't be painted are T1-11 and rough cut cedar. Both of these types of siding are very porous are prone to cracking. This will cause early peeling and they should be stained instead of painted.

Water Isn't The Only Cause Of Exterior Peeling Paint. If an area has excessive moisture you will need to find its source and repair this problem before proceeding.

Another cause of peeling paint is an incompatibility between the layers or coats of paint. Latex or Acrylic finishes cannot be applied over oil base or Alkyd finishes without the use of an appropriate primer first.

Also oil base paints become very hard and brittle with age, while latex paints are flexible. As the sun heats a surface it will expand. Flexible finishes will stretch while brittle finishes will break or crack.

If Acrylic, or latex, paint is applied over many layers of Alkyd, or oil base, paint the flexible Acrylic can tear the old oil base paint off the surface, down to raw wood in some cases. The Alkyd paint can loose adhesion with the layers underneath or on top during this process.

Additional Causes

The application of an interior paint to exterior surfaces.
Paint that is applied in freezing weather.
Surface contamination.

These are a few examples of peeling that can occur. Always inspect all areas of your home during the surface preparation process. It is necessary to remove all loose and peeling paint and repair all defects before applying any primer or paint.

Typical Causes of Blistering Paint and Treatment

There are several primary reasons why paint would bubble or blister. Plus there are some differences between blistered paint and bubbled paint. A blister is usually the loss of adhesion between the new and old layers. This usually forms after the paint has dried, the amount of time could be a day or even a year or more. On the other hand, a bubble is usually caused by a chemical reaction. This bubble can be formed by expanding vapors or excess moisture on the surface during application. A paint bubble usually forms before or during the initial drying phase.

Warm or Hot Surface
If a wall is in direct sunlight chances are it will be quite warm and possibly hot to the touch. When any paint is applied to a hot surface the solvents, water for latex and mineral spirits for oil base, vaporize very quickly. At the same time, the paint is drying, forming a film and becoming resistant to the transfer of the solvent underneath. This creates a bubble. Excessive thinning combined with heat will increase the chances of this condition occurring.

Solution - Avoid painting in direct sunlight or application to hot surfaces. Paint conditioners such as Flotrol, for water base paints, or Penitrol, for oil base paint, can be used to slow down the drying of paint when applied in hot weather. These paint conditioners are better than water or mineral spirits as they have slower evaporation rates.

Wet or Damp Surface
Wet substrates such as wood or concrete block, can cause this condition and eventual peeling. This is especially true for oil base paint. Water underneath the paint film can cause a lack of adhesion that can occur across a large area or be localized.

Solution - Allow the surface to dry completely before priming and painting. If the moisture persists you will need to track down its source and repair the problem before painting.

Rain, Dew and High Humidity
Exposure of the paint film to rain, dew or high humidity shortly after application and during the drying phase can cause paint blisters, sometimes full of water.

Solution - Allow 4 or more hours of drying before predicted adverse weather. Often this condition will disappear if dry conditions quickly return. If not, removing the bubbled paint and repainting the affected area is needed.

Lifting Old Layers of Paint
It is also possible for a large blister or paint bubble to form a few days after painting, apparently for no good reason. These occurrences are usually caused when the new paint film dries and shrinks, pulling on the underlying layers and lifting them from the surface. Homes that originally were stained or treated with linseed oil then painted with latex or acrylic paint without a primer can show this lifting of a paint layer when a new layer is added. The same thing can happen when a home is originally painted with an oil base. This is unfortunate as the older layers are not fully adhered. In this case the only prevention is the original preparation or lack of. Repairing the affected areas as the damage occurs is all that can be done.

Fixing Blistering Paint

Removing blistering paint involves hand scraping and sanding to blend in the paint edges with the surrounding surface. For large areas power sanding alone can be used. Affected wood surfaces could require extensive sanding, including down to raw wood.

For masonry, a good alternative to hand scraping is pressure washing. Careful use of a pressure washer will remove many paint blisters, but it is still advisable to go over the surface with a hand scraper.

As you are removing the affected areas, determine if it was caused by moisture or heat. To determine this, observe if there is paint or raw wood underneath. Raw wood indicates a moisture problem and finding paint indicates a problem with heat.

If moisture is the problem, determine its source and repair where needed to prevent any more moisture from affecting your paint job.

There's numerous ways that water can reach a painted surface.

1 Missing or cracked caulking around windows and doors or missing from gaps between the siding.
2 Clogged gutters can cause excess moisture under singles.
3 Inadequate attic ventilation.
4 Persistent dampness in a basement.
5 Vegetation to close to the house. Not enough fresh air movement around the house.

In all instances, it is advisable to use a good appropriate primer over the affected area. Allow the necessary time for the primer to fully dry, this could take a day or two depending on the type used.

With the necessary repairs made, blistering paint removed, affected area(s) primed and all gaps caulked; you can finally start to apply some paint.

In order to achieve professional results you need to envision the exterior painting involving many steps or procedures. Each painting step will progress from one to another in a rational manner.

Every exterior paint job begins with an evaluation of the condition of the homes various surfaces and what is needed to produce the best foundation for the finish paint.

Exterior surface preparation is the most important part and can take the most time and effort. An essential part of this process is choosing the most appropriate primer to use. The primer is as important as the paint.

Don't rush, taking your time now and doing things right will add years to the life of the exterior paint job.

After the preparation is done, you will need to choose the best exterior paint and application methods for your particular project. Unfortunately there isn't an easy answer to either of these concerns. Each house is different to some degree and requires its own decisions.

If your homes exterior is stained, choose the best exterior stain possible. The most common stained wood siding and trim is cedar and redwood. In order to receive the maximum durability from any exterior stain, the surface must be porous to allow maximum penetration. Removing the previous stain might be necessary. As with painting, properly preparing a stained house is an absolute necessity.

Applying exterior stain to siding and trim is very similar to painting except the stain is thinner and a bit more difficult to control. The type and color of stain will influence its application. Some experimentation will be necessary.

The most common exterior painting methods are brushing and rolling or spraying. Both work extremely well and are suitable for most surfaces. Your own skill level and the particular situation will dictate which method is right for you.

For low homes, like single level ranch style, brushing and rolling can often be the best choice. Using an airless paint sprayer can speed up the finish painting, but will require more skill and experience.

The method you choose will depend on the type of paint chosen and the construction of your home. Often every home requires a combination of both methods in order to achieve the best results. No matter which method is chosen use professional grade tools for the best results.

Exterior Painting Can Involve Many Surfaces

Every different type of surface on your home can require a different exterior painting technique. Plus, which painting technique that is used will depend on the type of finish you choose. Generally there is four categories of surfaces; the body, trim, windows and doors.
The body is the largest area needing painting and can be siding or stucco.
Wood siding is very common and can be painted or stained. The most common woods used here in Colorado are cedar, redwood and pine. They are usually in the form of lap siding. Hardwoods are rare but seen from time to time.
Another common variety of wood siding is T-111. This type of siding is very difficult to keep painted due to the enormous amount of cracks in the plywood. Painting T-111 siding requires a lot of work and paint. If you have this type of siding and it is stained consider not painting. Restaining T-111 siding is a good alternative to paint.
Masonite is another material that is very common and being used more and more every year. This is an artificial material that can be smooth or embossed, wood grained. Masonite is a very stable type of siding and not prone to warping and splitting like wood. But painting Masonite siding requires back rolling or risk possible damage from water in the near future.
Vinyl and steel siding can be painted if a new color is desired or is the original color has degraded over the years. There are a few things to think about. Overall painting steel siding is the same as painting other types of siding. Painting vinyl siding and trim will require some extra steps plus you have other options instead of painting. Vinyl siding can be revitalized, bringing back the original color.
Although wood and Masonite are very common building materials, many homes that I paint are using different types of masonry to protect and beatify their exteriors.
Stucco is a very popular exterior finish used throughout the south west and as well as other parts of the country. It's understandable, with the ease of maintenance and low cost to usable lifespan. Painting stucco is a great way to change the color or hide unsightly stains.
Concrete block is another wonderful building material. My favorite is split-face block, often used on commercial buildings. This material can be painted or stained to achieve many decorative affects. Painting concrete block is very easy and if done correctly will last a very long time with easy maintenance in the future.
Exterior Brick can also be painted. If you want a new look or just hate the color of your brick consider painting for a low maintenance finish that will last a long time. These are the steps I take to paint exterior brick, whether it is unpainted or previously painted.
Almost any exterior surface can be painted. This is just a partial list of surface types I paint every year.

One exterior painting problem that most homeowners dread is peeling gutters and downspouts. It's quite annoying... actually. The paint on the rest of your home seems to be holding up well, but your gutters and downspouts shed paint like a river birch shedding its bark on a bad bark day.

Gutter peeling is typically common to galvanized metal gutters. The problem exists because the wrong paint was used for the first coat on the gutters and downspouts. The most common mistake I have seen, is applying oil base paint directly to the bare galvanized metal. It simply will not holdup more than a few years.

The test I have run over the last 26 years points to oil base paint being applied to bare metal as the primary culprit. Ninety percent of the time the painters working for the builders made this crucial mistake.

I also found that most oil base primers will not properly bond to galvanized metal. I have found that a primer that is cement based bonds very well to galvanized gutters. Porter Paints carries a product call Porter Guard Galvanized Metal Primer 290. It contains cement and it does a great job of bonding long term. There are probably other brands that do well, but you will have to ask your local paint store.

If you are reading this article and have problems with peeling gutters there is good news and bad news.

OK, here is the bad news. Be prepared to either strip all your gutters back down to the bare metal and start over, or be prepared to service your gutters on a fairly regular basis. Scraping and priming will not re establish a bond in areas that have not peeled yet. Putting primer and top coat on all your gutters at this point will not reestablish a bond. It cannot penetrate trough the existing paint and cause the defective paint underneath to re-bond to the galvanized metal. You will continue to develop peeling on these metal surfaces over time because when the old paint peels, your new paint will come off right along with it..

The good news is you can eliminate what is peeling now and prime the bare metal with the primer I mentioned above. It will stop the peeling in those areas.

Here are a few important steps you will need to take.

1. First you will need to remove any peeling paint from the downspouts and gutters with a wire brush, or scraper. A wire wheel on a drill also works well.

2. Clean the sanded area with a good grade of solvent to remove any oil on the surface. Wipe down the metal areas with a heavy coat of solvent and allow it to totally evaporate.

3. If you have any areas that are showing rush, apply naval jelly per the instructions and let it dry. This will stop the rusting process.

4. After the solvent and naval jelly has evaporated, apply the cement based metal primer paint directly to the bare galvanized metal spots. Allow the primer to dry according to manufacturers recommendations and then apply either latex paint or oil base paint as a top coat.

I have found through the years that if the surface has been properly cleaned and primed, exterior latex paint will bond to galvanized metal much better than oil base paint. Latex paint has the stretchable qualities needed for outside temprature changes. Oil base paints dry hard and turns brittle. Over time this causes the oil base paints to cause small cracking of the paint and what I call spider webbing.

Finish the job with at least one coat of good-quality house paint. Use two coats in extreme cases

The most lasting and cost effective way to change the color of stucco is with paint. With your full attention on the details, from surface preparation to applying a high quality finish paint, the new look and color of your exterior stucco can be virtually maintenance free for many years.

Quality and craftsmanship is always in the details. This starts with proper surface preparation and any needed repairs. Then continues with choosing and applying the best primer and paint.

Removing Loose Paint From Previously Painted Stucco
Any paint remaining after the washing will have to be removed manually. This is accomplished with a stiff putty knife and wire brush. Carefully lift the loose paint with the putty knife and use the wire brush to remove any remaining loose particles. Feathering the paint edge isn't possible on ruff masonry surfaces.

Preparation

All masonry surfaces need to be fully cured before any painting can take place. New exterior stucco should be allowed to cure for a minimum of 60 days.

Before any preparation can begin take a good look at the entire surface. Pay attention to peeling paint, rust stains, efflorescence deposits and any areas needing repair. Peeling paint along with stains and efflorescence deposits can indicate water damage. These areas will require closer inspection after pressure washing.

Efflorescence deposits are a power that forms from water migrating through the stucco. This water picks up alkaline salts and deposits them on the surface or behind the paint film. A scrub brush and masonry cleaner might be needed for heavy deposits.

Pressure Washing Stucco
The preparation begins with a thorough washing to remove all dirt and dust. Pressure washing can be a delicate operation. Stucco is a relatively soft masonry coating and can be easily damaged by high-pressure water. Use minimal pressure, 1200-1500 psi and a wide spray tip.

Masonry cleaners and soaps can be used for heavily soiled areas, efflorescence deposits or rust stains. Usually the use of cleaners is not necessary.

Begin washing at the top of the wall and work your way down. Keep the spray tip 12-inches or more away from the surface. Pay special attention to windows and doors. Angle the pressurized water away from these areas to prevent leaks or water intrusion behind the stucco.

The pressure washer can remove loose paint, but it can also remove some of the stucco if the pressure is too high or the tip is to close. Use the washer to provide a clean surface. Don't rely on it to remove all the loose paint.

Allow the stucco to thoroughly dry before proceeding with priming and caulking. This can take 24 hours or more depending on temperatures and humidity.

Caulk and Sealants
Applying sealants to all cracks and gaps is very important and will drastically affect how long the paint job lasts. Water must be stopped from penetrating beneath the paint finish. The best and most appropriate sealant is an elastomeric caulk. With excellent adhesion and elongation characteristics this sealant will last a long time. Apply all caulk after the stucco is properly primed for the best performance.

Seal around all openings and penetrations. This includes windows, doors and wood trim. Other areas are dryer vents, any plumbing penetrations and at the wall to the soffit.

Stucco Repairs
The most common repairs are large cracks, damaged corners and small areas of missing stucco.

Cracks- Non-structural cracks will always occur on masonry surfaces. They can either have a random distribution or occur in large numbers. These cracks can range from hairline to ¼ inch wide. Caulk can be effective on small tight cracks, but will fail when applied to large cracks with a lot of movement. A better alternative is to use a brush grade elastomeric sealant. This thick sealant is available with or without texture to help it blend into the surrounding surface. Apply two coats; allow each coat to dry completely.
Damaged Areas- Any loose stucco must be removed and repaired. A professional contractor who can match the existing texture should repair large areas. Smaller areas can be repaired with specialized patching compounds. The basic steps are very easy. First chip away all loose material. Now rinse the area with water using a wire brush to remove any remaining powder or grit. The patching compound can be applied after the area has dried.

The best patching compounds are a powder mixed with water. The first application will smooth the area and level it with the existing finish. The second application is to provide the necessary texture matching the surrounding stucco. Matching any texture is extremely difficult. Most likely the patched area will a little different.

Step #1 - Cleaning the Brick

I recommend using a pressure washer and about 1500 - 2000 psi. You don't need a large unit or excessive pressure. The idea is to remove all the dust, dirt, spider webs, pollution and maybe some loose paint. To much pressure or holding the nozzle to close could damage the mortar.

If you have any efflorescence deposits, powdery residue, spend extra time rinsing with the pressure washer. Many washers can inject mild soaps into the pressurized water stream. This is especially useful for stubborn efflorescence deposits or other types of surface contamination.

Another method for removing difficult stains, especially oily stains, is to use a small amount of dissolved laundry detergent in water and a scrub brush. Producing a very clean surface is important when painting exterior brick. Any remaining residues could interfere with the primers ability to stick, compromising the entire paint job before it's begun.

Step #2 - Remove Loose Paint and Repair Mortar

All loose paint must be removed and any repairs made prior to priming and painting brick. Any remaining loose paint could cause premature peeling. If you find any loose or peeling paint, use a hand scraper, stiff putty knife or wire brush to remove it. Areas of removed paint on the brick face can be sanded smooth for a better looking paint job. Use a circular sander or palm sander with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper.

Damaged or missing mortar can be repaired with premixed acrylic mortar patch available in a small tub or cartridge just like caulking. Or, you can use powdered mortar and mix it yourself, but it will need to dry for a few days before priming. The premixed mortar patch can be primed and painted immediately after it is dry.

Step #3 - Priming the Brick

All exposed brick or mortar must be primed with an acrylic masonry or quick drying universal primer. Primers like Zinsser's 123 Acrylic primer are great for painting exterior brick. It will dry quickly, 1-2 hours to top coat, allowing you to paint sooner.

If your chosen primer is thick, add a splash of water to help with penetration. There is no need to prime the entire brick surface if the original paint is in good shape and is compatible with your finish paint.

All oil base paints must be fully primed if you plan on using an acrylic or latex over it. The rule is simple, oil base paint over water base paint but never water over oil without priming.

Step #4 - Caulking and Sealing

Gaps, cracks and holes larger than hairline, or 1/16 of an inch, should be caulked. This will keep water from entering the brick or mortar and getting under the paint.

Other areas that will need caulking are around windows, doors, and any wood trim to the brick. Generally, any gap that can let water in will need some kind of sealing. For extra large gaps use foam backer rod and polyurethane caulking. For all other gaps a good elastomeric caulking can be used.

Step #5 - Painting Exterior Brick

Brick can be a difficult surface to paint. Typically, I spray the paint and back brush the first coat to make sure all areas have a good coat. The second coat can be sprayed without back brushing.

Brick can also be brushed and rolled. Use a thick roller cover, ¾ inch or thicker, depending on your brick.

The types of paint I like most when painting exterior brick are Elastomeric coatings or 100% Acrylic house paint. Oil base paints can also be used, but do not have the UV rating or the elasticity of weather change. Eventually oil base paints will "spider web" (get hairline cracks in the paint)..

The most satisfying part of painting is putting the finishing touches on the exterior trim. This will tie the entire look of the home together. Just like painting any surface there are a few options that can enhance the overall look.

Exterior trim can be defined as any attached surface that isn't painted the same as the body, main color, and is highlighted with a contrasting color. These features include assorted wood trim, fascia boards, gutters and downspouts or even the soffits. The exterior house trim can encompass almost any surface and will define your houses outline.

Wrap or Face Off the Trim
After the colors for the exterior trim are decided you will have one more idea to consider. How much of the trim will be the body color and how much will be the trim color?

It is more common to extend the body color to cover the outside edge of the trim. The trim color is applied to the face only. This is "Facing Off" the trim. The other option is to paint the face and the edge(s) that are next to the body with the trim color. This is "Wrapping" the trim.

Facing the trim is the quickest and easiest way to paint exterior house trim. While wrapping the edges can drastically increase the time and effort needed to get the job done. These two options can be combined on the same home. Wrap trim at eye level to add extra depth and use the simpler facing method on the rest of the house.

Brushing or Rolling the Details
Most homeowners and professional painters will choose to use a brush, but for wide trim pieces a trim roller will speed up the process. Use a 3-inch brush, or smaller, for narrow house trim. An angled sash brush is the easiest to on fascia boards, gutters and 4-6 inch trim boards.

Wide fascia boards and miscellaneous exterior trim boards can be painted with a 3-4 inch trim roller. Use the roller on the flat areas and a brush on the edges.

Basic Guidelines
Large amounts of exterior trim with small areas of siding - Consider spraying the trim and rolling the siding. Always use the easiest application method on the largest areas that need to be painted.

Many Victorian homes have very large wood trim pieces on the front of the home and possibly on the sides as well. The window sashes can be masked allowing the frame and any associated trim to be sprayed. Paint the window sashes by hand with a brush. Using this method can save considerable amounts of time.

Assume some touch-up will be necessary in order to have perfect lines. Go ahead and allow a small amount of the trim color to overlap the siding. After the trim has dried use the siding color to achieve a straight line.
A small paint shield or drywall knife can help with straight lines. Be prepared to experiment.
Down spouts can be either the trim color or body color. If the downspout is mounted to the trim loosen the clamps and paint underneath with the trim color then remount and finish the downspout with the same color.

This method is easier and will allow a clean straight line on the edge of the trim.
Downspouts the same color as the body will still need the top, first, elbow painted with the trim color. Stop the color were the first elbow attaches to the downspout.

Latex Paint This is the most common paint and is cheaper and easier to clean up with water.
Latex is the use of rubber in one type or another as the resin, or solid, in paint. The solvent or thinner, called the "vehicle," is water. Many paints are made in this manner but with solids that are not latex. If the paints are called latex, the phrase usually used is "acrylic latex" because they are manufactured with a plastic resin made of acrylics or a poly vinyl instead of rubber.

Not only the speed of drying, but the ability to completely cover one color with another, and cleanability of acrylic latex paints, the biggest benefit of water-thinned paints is the ease of cleanup with water. The higher cost and the potential fire hazard of thinners and brush cleaners is eliminated.
Latex paint works well on surfaces that had been painted with latex or flat oil base paints. It can even be used on unprimed walls or unpainted masonry. Although, latex paint usually does not adhere well to high-gloss finishes and, even though it can be used on wallpaper, there is a risk that the water in the paint reactivate the glue and the paper may peel or loosen. Because of its water content some surfaces will have to be primed. Latex will cause bare steel to rust and will raise the grain on raw wood.

Alkyd Resin Paint This thick paint allows you to put more paint on the surface with each stroke.
Alkyd resin is a synthetic for oil base paints and has several advantages. One advantage is a special formula that makes the paint very thick. A brush loaded with it takes more paint to the surface than previous paints. Yet the paint spreads and smooths out nicely.

In most gloss and semi-gloss paints, alkyd paint is still the paint of choice for trim, doors, and even heavy-traffic areas. Many homeowners still like them for areas where humidity and grease is an issue such as bathrooms and kitchens, despite the availability of water-base enamels in satin or gloss that can be safely cleaned in water or household cleaners.

Alkyd paints have improved with the addition of a material that diffuses and evaporates, that has very small bubbles that reflect and scatter light. This makes the paint look thicker than it really is. With paints of this formula, one coat of white will completely cover black or bright yellow.

Alkyds are suitable for raw wood and almost any previously painted or papered surface, but should not be used on drywall that has not been primed. It can raise the nap of its paper coating of the drywall or unprimed masonry, You will need to wait for a second coat four to six hours before alkyds are dry enough. Solvents must be used for thinning and cleanup. Check the label to find which solvent is recommended by the manufacturer. And, while the solvents may be almost odorless, they're still toxic and flammable, so you should work in a well-ventilated room.

Rubberbase Paint The existence of rubber makes this paint very durable. It is not as popular because the color choice is limited and in can be bought in only flat or low-gloss finishes. This paint contains a liquid rubber. The cost is high and it has a potent smell. It is an excellent coating for concrete because it is waterproof and durable,

This paint should be sealed with a coat of clear varnish before using it on brick. Wash the concrete with a 10 percent solution of muriatic acid, rinse thoroughly, and let dry completely before applying on new concrete. As always read all labels on any chemical and observe proper safety measures.

Textured Paint This paint is the one if you want to get a textured finish, like stucco.
This paint works for an effective cover-up for damaged or textured surfaces. You can purchase it in premixed with small sandlike particles floating in the paint. In some varieties, you have to add the particles and stir thoroughly. Some types of textured paint has no particles. It is thick and smooth, and is applied to the surface and then textured with special tools.

Textured paints are available in either flat-finish latex or alkyd formulations. Latex versions can be used without a primer and are most often used on bare drywall ceilings. Because of this they help to camouflage the seams between sheets of drywall.

Because of this texture, when the time comes to paint over it, all those peaks and valleys that were created will increase the surface area of the wall. This rougher surface will require 15 to 25 percent more paint for the second coat.

Dripless Paint You will be glad you picked a paint that won't run when you paint a ceiling.
Dripless paint is perfect for ceilings because it's so thick it won't run off a roller or brush. It will usually cover any surface in a single coat, but it is quite a bit more expensive than conventional alkyd paint. Because it's so thick, it will take more material than the thinner and more spreadable versions.

One-Coat Paint Adding more pigment to the paint helps you get more out of each brushload. With extra pigment to improve their covering abilities, one-coat paints are really just more expensive versions of ordinary latex or alkyd paints. To get the best results, only use them for use on f unblemished, same-color or near same-color surfaces that have been sealed.

Tip: Read the warranty. Not all paints advertised as "one-coat" really are.

Acoustic Paint This paint will not deaden the sound-reflecting quality of your surface.
This paint covers without impairing the tile's sound qualities. It is designed for use on acoustic ceiling tile. A paint sprayer is most efficient and less likely to affect the sound-deadening properties of the tile, but It can be applied with a roller.

Primers If you need to bond the new coating to the old surface a bonding primer should be used.
Not to be confused with just putting a thinned down version of the paint. Bonding primers which contains less-expensive pigment, dries quickly, and provides a firm foundation or "tooth" for the final coat of paint. It is not used to cover the old surface paint, but instead to bond the two surfaces together.
Primers are also inexpensive undercoatings that smooth out uneven surfaces. They allow you to use an otherwise incompatible paint on a previously painted or bare surface because it provides a barricade between porous surfaces and certain finishing coats
For raw wood, alkyd primer works best. Latex primer has all the advantages of latex paint because it is almost odor-free, fast drying, and easy to clean up. It is the best undercoat for drywall, plaster, and concrete. Don't use it on bare wood, though, because the water in it may raise the grain.

Paintbrushes

With few exceptions, paintbrushes fall into two catagories. They are the natural bristle brushes, made of animal hair, and the synthetic bristle brushes, usually made of nylon, polyester, or a combination. At one time, the natural bristles were considered the best for oil based paints, but today the synthetics are every bit as good. Besides, you can't use a natural bristle brush with any type of waterbase paint. Water makes the bristles limp and swell up or fray out making it useless afterward. Consequently, if you're painting with a water-thinned paint, your brush selection is already 50 percent easier.
Most paintbrushes have bristles, but some use a foam head.
Buy the best brushes you can afford. If you have to spend a few dollars more for top quality brushes, it will be worth it in the long run. Quality brushes make any painting task go more easily and quickly. They will make the job look smoother and much more professional. They can be thoroughly cleaned to look like new for the next job. With a little care, good paintbrushes will last for many years.
You can distinguish between a good brush and a bad one by examining them closely at the store. Spread the bristles and inspect the tips. The more feathers, or split ends, the better the brush and its smooth paint-spreading capabilities. Tap the brush on the edge of a counter; a good brush may lose a few bristles, but a bad one will lose many. Find a brush with long, tapered bristles, particularly on narrow brushes. As a general rule, the bristle length should be about one-and-a-half times as long as the width of the brush on brushes 4" and less This is not true on the wider brushes because they are mostly used on walls. A 11/2-inch-wide brush, for example, should have bristles about 21/4 inches long. Bristle length gives you flexibility to paint into corners and around trim. Finally, choose smooth, well-shaped handles of wood or plastic that fit in your hand comfortably. Check the brads that hold the handle to the brush. Do they look like quality and will they hold for a long duration?
Paintbrushes come in many sizes and types and are necessary for those hard-to-reach places a paint roller can't reach. Here are some of the main types of paintbrushes:
Wall. This type spreads the most paint over the most surface. A 4-inch-wide brush is a good choice, though 31/2- and 3-inch wall brushes may be easier to use.
Trim. A 2-inch-wide trim brush is ideal for woodwork and for "cutting in" around windows, doors, and corners before painting walls with a roller.
Sash. A sash brush has an angled bristle end. Available in 1-, 1 1/2-, or 2-inch widths, the angled sash brush makes close work easier -- especially when you're painting around windows. Used carefully, it reduces the need to use tape to protect window panes.
The same size brushes are also available in foamed urethane. Instead of bristles, they have spongelike heads. They are increasingly popular among do-it-yourselfers, particularly in smaller sizes used for interior or exterior trim painting. Disposable foam brushes come in widths up to 3 inches and are cheap enough to toss out after one use.

Paint Rollers

For large, flat surface areas like walls and ceilings, paint rollers will help you get the job done in about half the amount of time it would take with a paintbrush. Most painters use brushes for trim work and around windows and doors, then turn to rollers to fill in the big blank spaces. Rollers for painting flat areas come in varying widths -- from 4 to 18 inches -- but the two most common sizes for interior jobs are 7 inches and 9 inches wide.
Paint rollers intended for wall or ceiling painting have handles made of plastic or wood that may have been hollowed out and machined to accept an extension handle. They also have a metal or plastic frame that is slipped inside a roller cover. Of the two types, the metal-rib version (also known as a bird cage or spring-metal frame) is best because it's easier to clean and less likely to stick to the inside of the roller cover.
Paint rollers, pads, and trays are essential parts of the painting toolkit.
The type of roller cover you should buy is largely determined by the kind of paint you'll be using, but they are all fiber-covered or urethane-foam-covered cylinders that soak up paint from a tray and then release it when rolled over a flat surface. The rolling action creates a vacuum that actually pulls the paint off the roller. Made of lamb's wool, mohair, Dynel, acetate, or polyurethane foam, most rollers are labeled with the kind of paint for which they are intended to be used. Choose your roller cover accordingly.
The roller package will also identify the length of the roller cover's nap, or pile, which can vary from 1%u204416 inch to 11%u20442 inches. For rough surfaces, use the long naps; choose short ones for smooth surfaces. The pile is attached to a tube that slips over the roller's plastic or cardboard frame.
Paint trays are made of aluminum or plastic and come in standard 7-inch and 9-inch versions. The 9-inch size is most popular because you can then use either a 7- or 9-inch roller. Some trays come with hooks that allow you to attach them directly to a ladder. The trays, of course, are washable and durable. But to make cleanup even easier, buy some disposable plastic tray liners or line the tray with aluminum foil.

Airless Sprayers

For small painting jobs around the home, an airless spray painter makes sense because it is less expensive to buy than a separate air compressor and spray painter.
An airless paint sprayer uses a small electrical pump motor that forces paint through a small hole or orifice to beak it up into a fine spray. The shape of the spray cone can be adjusted for various patterns to match the job. Parts of the typical airless sprayer include the electric pump, power cord, handle, on/off trigger switch, paint nozzle, spray controller and paint container. Some airless sprayers draw paint through a tube from a paint bucket or can instead of an attached paint container.
An airless sprayer is a fast and efficient way of putting paint on a surface. Refer to operating instructions included with the sprayer to use it properly. High-pressure sprayers can be more dangerous than those with smaller hydraulic pumps. With the sprayer cord unplugged, remove the attached paint container and pour in the paint; sprayers without attached containers run the tube directly to the paint can. Practice painting on scrap wood or other surface to adjust the spray cone and your technique. For even coverage, spray from side to side overlapping the edge. For even application, move your hand parallel to the surface rather than in an arc.
Maintaining an airless sprayer requires careful cleaning of all components before the paint can dry. Be especially careful to thoroughly clean the paint nozzle. Refer to instructions on the paint can to learn how best to clean sprayers and brushes.

How To Use a Paintbrush
When you embark on an interior painting job, you'll soon discover how easy it is to use brushes competently. Even so, there are a few techniques that will help postpone fatigue and provide a neater job.
Grasp sash and trim brushes as you would a pencil (top). Hold a wall brush with your entire hand (bottom). The grip you use depends on the brush you've chosen. Trim and sash brushes with pencil handles are grasped much as you would a pencil, with the thumb and the first two fingers of the hand. This technique gives you excellent control for intricate painting. With beaver-tail handles on larger brushes, you'll need a stronger grip because the brushes are wider and heavier. Hold the handle with the entire hand, letting the handle span the width of your palm as you would hold a tennis racket. This technique works best when you're painting large, flat surfaces.
The goal of loading a brush is to get as much paint on the wall as possible without dribbling it all over the floor and yourself in the process. It will take you only a few minutes to be able to gauge accurately how much paint your brush will hold along the way. Meanwhile, start the job by dampening the bristles of the brush (with water for latex or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint) to condition them and make them more efficient. Remove excess moisture by gently striking the metal band around the handle's base against the edge of your palm and into a sink or bucket.
Never dip a brush more than about one-third the length of the bristles into the paint. If you do, the brush will become next to impossible to clean. With the first dip, move the brush around a bit in the paint to open the bristles and let the brush fill completely. It will be easier to pick up a full load if you jab the brush gently into the paint with each dip. With most latex paints, you can simply dip the brush and let the excess drip off for a few seconds before moving the brush to the wall. With thinner coatings, however, you may have to gently slap the brush against the inside of the paint can or lightly drag it across the inside edge of the lip to remove excess paint.
To neatly paint up to a line where two edges or colors meet, called "cutting in," use a trim brush with beveled bristles (the end of the brush resembles a chisel). Paint five or six strokes perpendicular to the edge of the ceiling or the wall. Next, smooth over these strokes with a single, long stroke, painting out from the corner first, then vertically. Where the wall and ceiling come together, use downward strokes on the wall first followed by smooth horizontal strokes.
On the ceiling itself, cut in strokes toward the center of the room, away from the wall. Then paint a smooth horizontal stroke on the ceiling that follows the direction of the wall. Even if you're using the same color of paint on adjoining surfaces, follow this method of cutting in with 2-inch-wide borders rather than just plopping a loaded brush directly into a corner. This will prevent drips, sags, and runs.
To cut in at a corner, paint out from the corner for five or six strokes, then smooth over them with a single, long, smooth stroke. Another cutting-in approach, beading, can practically eliminate the need to use masking tape to protect one painted area from another. Use a beveled trim brush with nice long bristles. Hold the brush so that your thumb is on one side of the metal ferrule and your fingers on the other. Press the brush lightly against the surface, then, as you move the brush, add just enough pressure to make the bristles bend away from the direction of your brushstroke. Keep the brush about 1/16 inch away from the other colored surface. The bent bristles and the pressure will release a fine bead of paint that will spread into the gap.
With both methods of cutting in, but especially when you're dealing with two colors, it's better to have a brush that's too dry than one that's too wet. This is detail work. To do it effectively, go slowly and cut in 4 or 5 inches at a time. It will seem tedious at first, but your speed and accuracy will improve with practice, and even one ordinary-size room will give you lots of practice.

How To Use a Paint Roller

Working with a paint roller is even less exacting than working with a brush. Even a novice painter can get the feel of it in just a few minutes.
As with brushes, moisten the roller first with water for latex paint or the appropriate thinner for other types of paint. Roll out the excess moisture on a piece of scrap lumber or kraft paper or even on a paper grocery bag. Don't use newspaper because the roller may pick up the ink. Fill the well of the roller pan about half full, and set the roller into the middle of the well. Lift the roller and roll it down the slope of the pan, stopping just short of the well. Do this two or three times to allow the paint to work into the roller. Then, dip the roller into the well once more, and roll it on the slope until the pile is well saturated. You'll know immediately when you've overloaded the roller. It will drip en route to the wall and have a tendency to slide and smear instead of roll across the surface.
Using a paint roller requires a less exacting approach than a paintbrush, and using it well is a quickly-acquired skill. The most effective method of painting with a roller is to paint 2-or 3-square-foot areas at a time. Roll the paint on in a zigzag pattern without lifting the roller from the wall, as if you're painting a large M, W, or backward N. Then, still without lifting the roller, fill in the blanks of the letters with more horizontal or vertical zigzag strokes. Finish the area with light strokes that start in the unpainted area and roll into the paint. At the end of the stroke, raise the roller slowly so it does not leave a mark. Go to the next unpainted area, and repeat the zigzag technique, ending it just below or next to the first painted patch. Finally, smooth the new application, and blend it into the previously finished area.
Using a zigzag pattern in one area at a time is the most effective method for using a paint roller. Professional painters also suggest starting with a roller stroke that moves away from you. On walls, that means the first stroke should be up. If you roll down on the first stroke, the paint may puddle under the roller and run down the wall. In addition, be careful not to run the roller so rapidly across the wall that centrifugal force causes it to spray.

How To Use an Airless Sprayer

For larger painting jobs, an airless sprayer is the most efficient way to apply paint. An airless sprayer uses an electrically run hydraulic pump to move paint from a bucket or container, through a tube, into a high-pressure hose, to a spray gun, and, finally, to the surface. Once you get the knack of it, an airless sprayer is easy to use, but if you rent one, make sure you get a set of written instructions.
The instructions will tell you how to flush the system with solvent (usually water or mineral spirits, depending on the paint you'll be using) and how to pump the paint through the hose to the spray gun. For cleanup, the procedure is reversed: Pump the leftover paint out and flush with solvent.
You'll only need the spray rig for a day or two, but plan to spend at least another day beforehand to thoroughly mask off everything you don't want to paint. Tape drop cloths to every floor surface. Drape windows, the fireplace, and doors. Remove all hardware or cover it with masking tape. Mask switches and outlets. Paint from a sprayer travels on the tiniest of air currents and settles a fine mist of overspray on just about every surface in a room.
Plan to keep at least one window in each room open and set up an exhaust fan to draw paint vapor out of the room. Be sure, too, to wear a painters' mask, a hat, and old clothes with long sleeves to protect your arms.
Airless sprayers are equipped with several filters to keep paint particles and foreign matter from clogging the spray tip, but it's a good idea to filter the paint yourself through a nylon stocking or paint filter before you pump the paint through the hose.
Keep the sprayer an equal distance from the wall with each pass. Sweeping back and forth (as shown in the top illustration) will concentrate the paint in the middle of the arc.
Using an airless sprayer effectively takes some getting used to, so plan to practice on some scrap plywood or an inconspicuous part of the room or the house. The object is to cover the surface with a uniform coating of paint. Hold the spray gun a constant 6 to 12 inches from the surface and maintain this distance with each pass of the gun. Keep the gun precisely parallel to the wall. Don't sweep it back and forth or you'll end up with a wide arc of paint on the wall; the paint will be concentrated in the middle of the arc and almost transparent at each end.
Paint about a 3-foot horizontal strip at one time, then release the trigger and drop down to paint another strip of the same length, overlapping the first strip by one-third to one-half. Once you've covered a 3-foot-wide area from the top of the wall to the bottom, go back to the top and start another 3-foot section adjacent to the first, overlapping the edge of the first painted area by several inches as you work your way down the wall again.
Examine the painted areas to make sure the entire surface is receiving a uniform coat of paint. Too much will run or drip; too little will let the old paint show through. If you notice these flaws, it means you are not keeping the spray gun a uniform distance from the wall at all times or that you are tilting it. An upward tilt will deliver excess paint to the bottom of the painted strip. A downward tilt will concentrate paint at the top of the strip.
To prevent paint buildup at the end of each strip, release the trigger on the gun a fraction of a second be

Painting Walls
Walls are possibly the largest and most often surface most people paint when making some fast changes to your home interior. You can make an impressive change in the look of the interior just by adding some paint to the walls in a room.

Use a brush to paint along the edge of the ceiling next to moldings and
to paint next to corners. This technique is called "cutting in."

Start off by 'cutting' in the room interior as the picture shows. Paint far enough out that your roller doesn't bump a surface you are trying to avoid. Paint the entire wall before taking a break to keep the wet edge. Then stand back, go over the wall, and cover any missed spots. It doesn't matter if you paint in sections from top to bottom or from side to side across the room with a flat sheen. If you are using an eggshell or higher gloss, it is best to go up and down. If you're right-handed, start in the room's left-hand corner; if you're left-handed, start in the room's right-hand corner. Be careful to roll out all the streaks caused by paint buildup on the rollers edge. You can roll the roller on a spot on the wall at a 45 degree angle to roll this buildup out. Then roll across the paint that came off the roller and onto the wall a few times to smooth it back out.

Painting Ceilings and Tight Spots
You may think that how well you paint that will make the most impression, but it's important to also take care when painting ceilings. room.

Ceilings

When rolling paint on a ceiling, maintain a wet edge at all times to avoid creating lines and ridges. You will have to work fast if you are using fast-drying paint. And you may not get that break you so desperately needed until later. It is faster and easier if you use an extension handle so you can paint from the floor instead of from a stepladder. Most roller handles are made to accept a screw-in extension handle purchased at the paint store. Also a threaded broom or mop handle usually will work.

Tight Spots

For areas that are smaller than the standard 7- or 9-inch roller, use a 4-inch roller or a paintbrush. (The small roller is better because it will apply paint with the same surface finish as the rest of the wall.) Brushes apply paint less evenly and tend to leave brush tracks, but if the area to be painted is too small even for a roller, you can first brush it to cover and then dab it with the bristles of the brush to achieve a similar texture as the roller. Besides if the area is that small you won't notice the difference in texture anyway.

There is disagreement even among professional painters about whether to paint woodwork, such as trim, baseboards, and wainscoting, before or after the walls have been painted. It really is just personal preference. The reasoning behind painting the woodwork first is that any stray drips or spatters that end up on the wall only need to be wiped off, but not removed completely, since the wall's going to be painted anyway. This way you get the slow, detail work out of the way first. You will still need to be cautious because on the other hand, rollers always sling off a fine spray of paint into the room. No matter how careful you are, some of it is going to end up on the woodwork unless you tape it off. And before you do that, the woodwork will need to dry a couple of days to "cure" out or you will lift the paint off when you remove the tape. I prefer the latter method and I tape the woodwork off to minimize any paint drips. This way after the walls are finished, I remove the tape and paint the woodwork. After that I get back into the wall paint and carefully "back cut" the walls again around the woodwork where I may have bobbled a little. This makes a nice clean line and doesn't take long.

Whether you paint the woodwork first or last, be sure to inspect it for slight defects, and make the necessary repairs to the wood before you actually get down to painting. If you'll be painting over already-glossy woodwork, wipe it down with deglosser or sand it lightly with so the paint will adhere better.

Painting Trim

If you're using only one color and one finish on all surfaces, you may want to paint the trim as you come to it in the process of painting the walls. You will stop and get the brush each time you come to the woodwork, but this shouldn't be hard if there aren't too many windows and doors. If you paint the trim first, tape it off with masking tape or painter's tape when you paint the ceiling and walls. In this case you could do all the brushwork first ( cutting in corners, woodwork, and edges. Then get the roller out and roll everything at the same time. Most people, however, don't use the same color and finish on all surfaces.

Painting Baseboards

When you are ready to paint the baseboard, paint down from the top for a few short strokes, then smooth over them with a single, long, smooth stroke. Then, using a paint shield as a movable masker, cut in along the floor taking care not to smear paint onto the floor with your shield by cleaning it after each use. After that, you can fill in the unpainted spot between with long brush strokes. Paint only 2 or 3 feet of baseboard at a time. Look closely for surface drips, spatters, and overlapped edges, and clean them before moving on

Painting Wainscoting

Painting wainscoting or paneling is very similar to that of baseboards. Cut in along the top and bottom edges where the wainscoting meets the wall and the floor, like you did with the baseboard. Then, paint the indented panels and the molding surrounding them. Paint will usually drip from the corners of these panels, so your brush strokes should be toward the center of the panel and not too heavily loaded with paint. On the raised surfaces around and between panels, work from the top down, and always paint "with" the grain of the wood. For panels there will be both horizontal and vertical grain.

Painting Windows

In general, the job of painting windows will go faster if you purchase a 2-or 21/2-inch sash trim brush, angled slightly across the bottom to make it easier to get into 90-degree corners and tight spaces.

To paint wood-frame windows, if they are double-hung windows, first raise the bottom sash more than halfway up and lower the top sash if possible until its bottom rail is several inches below the bottom sash. Paint the bottom rail of the top sash and up the stiles as far as you can go. Paint all the surfaces of the bottom sash except the top edge. Reverse the position of the sashes: top sash up to within an inch of the window frame, bottom sash down to within an inch of the windowsill. Then, paint the formerly obstructed surfaces of the top sash and the top edges of both sashes.

Don't paint the wood jambs in which the sashes move up and down yet, but next paint the window frame, working from top to bottom, and the sill. When the paint on the sashes are dry to the touch, move them both down as far as they will go. You may have to tap them slightly if they are stuck. Next paint the exposed jambs. Let the paint dry, raise both sashes all the way, and paint the lower jambs. To keep the sashes from sticking in the jambs, put on only as much paint as is necessary to cover the old coat. Wait for the paint to dry, then lubricate the channels with beeswax, paraffin, or silicone spray.

Painting Doors

Flush doors -- those with smooth, flat surfaces -- are easy to paint with either a brush or a roller, but doors with inset panels can be tricky. No matter what type of door you're dealing with, paint the entire door without stopping. Otherwise the lap marks may show. Before you start, remove the doorknobs, the plates behind them, and the latch plate on the edge of the door.

When painting a door, paint the panels first. Then paint the rails, the stiles, and finally the edges, working from top to bottom.
On ornate doors, start by painting the inset panels at the top of the door. And as shown in painting wainscoting, paint all the panels and the molding around them. Then work your way down from the top to the bottom, painting the top rail, middle rail, and bottom rail (the horizontals) with back-and-forth strokes.

Next, paint the vertical stiles (the sides) with up-and-down strokes. If you're painting both sides of the door, repeat this procedure. If you're painting only one side, paint the top edge of the door with a light coat. Over time, paint can build up on the top edge and cause the door to stick. Finally, paint the door's hinge edge and latch edge.

Painting Shutters
The best way to paint shutters, both interior and exterior types, is to spray them, using either canned spray paint or an airless power sprayer. But, because that's not always possible, you can still get a quality finish on old shutters by using a brush.
Take the shutters down and scrape, sand, and clean them as needed. Then, if you can hang them from an open ceiling joist -- in the garage, for example -- you can paint both sides at the same time. Otherwise, stand the shutters upright or lay them out on the floor to paint one side at a time.
Keep your brush on the dry side. An excessively wet brush will result in runs and drips and, if the louvers are adjustable, sticking problems. Paint the window side of the shutter first. That way, if you do miss a run, it won't show.
On adjustable shutters, put a wood matchstick or a little wood wedge between the adjusting rod and one or two of its staples to keep the rod away from the louvers. Paint the louvers first with a 1/2- or 1-inch trim brush. Then paint the frame with a 2-inch brush. Leave the shutter edges until last so you can periodically turn the shutter over to check for runs. If you find any, smooth them out with an almost-dry brush before they set. When the front is dry, paint the back.

Painting Kitchen Cabinets
When making plans to redecorate, you may be tempted to yank out all the cabinetry in your kitchen and start from scratch. However, such a drastic action may not be necessary. The simple act of painting the cabinets can completely change the look of your kitchen, and give an old room a new lease on life.

With cabinets, paint in this sequence,
starting inside and working out.
Paint drawers last.
Painting cabinets and cupboards will be easier if you remove all obstructions first, including shelves, drawers, handles, pulls, knobs, and latches. If the hinges on the doors have pins you can remove easily, take off the doors until the cabinet and cupboard interiors and surfaces have been painted.

The hardest part of painting cabinets is reaching the barely accessible interior surfaces. Consider shortening the handles on your brushes or buy brushes with shortened handles to make things easier. Paint in this order, the inside back walls; inside top; side walls; and bottoms, tops, and edges of shelves.

Then paint all the exterior surfaces, working from the top down. If the doors are still in place, swing them open and paint the inside surfaces. Then close them partway and paint the outside. If the doors want to close on you, put a small stick in the crack at the hinge side to hold it open. Finally, stand the drawers up on newspapers and paint only their fronts. Do not paint the exterior sides or bottoms of the drawers

Once reserved for porches, paint is turning up on wood floors with increasing frequency, particularly in vacation homes. You can do a small floor in just a couple of hours once everything is prepared.

The techniques for painting floors are the same as for painting any other large flat surface. Be sure to remove all traces of wax, and sand the floor lightly to roughen its surface, improving its paint-holding ability. You can use ordinary porch and deck paint, but the color selection may be limited. You can also use a good-quality oilbase enamel. In either case, follow up with two to four coats of clear polyurethane to protect the painted finish. A marine grade of polyurethane is expensive, but even better for the traffic.

First, remove all the furniture from the area, and cut in the paint around the baseboards with a brush. Then you can use either a wide wall brush or a medium-pile roller for the rest of the floor. If you use an extension handle on a roller, you will be able to do the job standing up. Paint your way out of the room. On most wood floors, plan on applying at least two coats of paint, then two, three, or four coats of polyurethane. Let each coat dry to absolute hardness before reentering the room, and wear rubber-soled shoes until after the very last coat to avoid marring or scarring the surface.

Painting masonry floors is easier, faster, less expensive, and more common than painting wood floors. Moisture is a major cause of masonry painting problems. Most masonry is porous, and water that comes through it pushes at the paint, causing small particles to come off. In addition, the alkalinity in masonry affects the adhesiveness of some paints and attacks the pigments in others. Paint designed for masonry surfaces can handle rough treatment.

There are a number of latex-base masonry paints that offer the advantages of easy application and easy cleanup. They can be used in damp conditions without adhesion problems. Cement-base paints are frequently used on previously unpainted concrete where very low-pressure moisture is a problem. Epoxy paints are often applied where a hard finish is needed to resist moisture and chemicals. Just make sure the paint you use is compatible with any existing paint and with the type of masonry you'll be covering. A paint dealer can help you select the appropriate coating.

Before you get down to painting, repair and patch all cracks and holes and allow the patch compounds to cure fully. Then, wearing rubber gloves and goggles, use a 10 percent muriatic acid solution to remove efflorescence, the whitish powder that appears in spots on concrete. Mop up the solution, let the area dry, rinse it thoroughly, and let it dry again. Wash the entire floor with a strong detergent or a concrete degreaser. Then, once the floor is dry and just before painting, vacuum it to get rid of any leftover dust or grit.

On most masonry floors you can paint with a long-napped roller fitted with an extension handle so you can paint standing up, but you may need a brush for very rough areas. Depending on the surface conditions and the kind of paint you use, you may have to apply a second coat. If so, read the label on the paint can to find out how long you should wait between coats.

One of the most important aspects of a successful paint job is keeping things clean as you're working. It's also important to clean equipment as soon as you're finished and to wipe up any spatters or drips as soon as they occur. Here are some specific tips on keeping things clean while painting.

Minimizing Drips and Spatters

Even if you have already cut in around the room, avoid bumping the roller into the walls as you paint the ceiling or into the ceiling as you paint the walls, even if you're using the same color paint on both surfaces. The roller may deposit a visible ridge of paint each time it touches the ceiling or the wall.
No matter how slowly and steadily you move the roller across a surface, it will emit a fine spray of paint. Wear a scarf or cap (inexpensive painters' caps are available at paint stores), and make sure the floor and furniture are covered with drop cloths. Canvas drop cloths are best because they're durable, washable, and reusable. Plastic drop cloths, however, are far less expensive and, if you tape them down so they won't slide around, just as effective.
If you choose not to mask around windows, doors, and woodwork, minimize the risk of spatters by using a paint shield, either homemade or purchased from a paint dealer. The store-bought shields come in several sizes and materials (plastic or aluminum). Do-it-yourself shields can be made from thin cardboard or the slats of an old venetian blind. The paint shield works like a moving masker. Holding the shield in one hand, place it perpendicular to the surface being painted. Then, with the other hand, apply the paint. Paint shields are ideal for painting window frames because they can be used to keep paint off the glass, eliminating the need to scrape off dried paint later.
Because some spatters and spills are inevitable, keep a moist sponge and a pail of water handy when you're using latex paints. If you're using a solvent-thinned paint, keep some thinner and a supply of rags nearby to wipe up spatters and drips before they dry into bumps.

Cleaning Windowpanes, Spatters, and Drips

The best time to clean up paint drips and spatters is when they're still wet and will wipe away easily. If you do miss them, you can clean them up later with some extra effort.
If you used masking tape around windows, peel it off right after painting. Otherwise it may pull off some of the paint. If you painted with a painting shield or freehand, there will most likely be a few errant drops or smudges on the glass. A razor blade scraper, available at paint or hardware stores, will scrape the paint off the glass easily. Avoid breaking the seal between the new paint and the windowpane when you're cleaning up ragged edges around the sash.
Use a razor blade scraper to remove dry paint from glass.
Avoid breaking the seal between the paint and windowpane.
Cleaning up drips and spatters on most other surfaces is easier and less time consuming. For latex paint, a soft cloth combined with household detergent and warm water should do the trick. Don't scrub a freshly painted finish, though, even if it is dry to the touch. Many paints don't cure for 30 days or more. For solvent-thinned paints, use a soft cloth and turpentine or mineral spirits to soften and remove dried-on paint droplets. Then, go over the area again with warm water and detergent.
To get paint drips off hardwood, ceramic tile, or resilient flooring, wrap a cloth around a putty knife and gently scrape them up. Then wash the areas with warm, soapy water . Don't use solvent if you can avoid it, as it can damage the finish on the floor.

Cleaning Painting Equipment

Cleaning painting equipment includes not only brushes and rollers but also reusable drop cloths, paint cans, containers, and roller pans. Don't delay cleaning your equipment one minute longer than necessary. Fresh paint comes out of brushes, rollers, and pans easily; let paint dry for a while and you'll have to put a lot more time and effort into getting it out.
Inexpensive roller covers don't respond well even to thorough cleaning. Some paint residue will remain in the nap of the roller cover. When the roller is exposed to fresh paint later, the dried-in paint can soften and cause streaks in the new finish. If you use inexpensive roller covers, buy a new one for each job and save yourself the time and effort of trying to clean them. If you invest in a professional quality roller cover, it will clean thoroughly and can be used repeatedly.
If you used latex paint, drag the brushes across the lip of the paint can to remove most of the paint. Then rinse the brushes and rollers under warm tap water and wash with dishwashing detergent. A paintbrush comb can help remove paint residue from the bristles. To get out the excess water, gently squeeze the bristles or take the brush outside and give it a few vigorous flicks. Squeeze the water out of the roller covers. Use paper towels to soak up any remaining water in both brushes and rollers.
When the brush is clean, shake out the excess solvent or water, and comb out the bristles. You can use a brush comb, or wirebrush. Just lay it on a flat surface and while holding the handle brush the bristle toward the tip to remove the paint flakes from it. Then turn it over and do the other side.
With solvent-thinned paints, use the appropriate solvent as identified on the paint can's label. Agitate brushes and rollers in a container of the solvent. Repeat this process to get out all the paint. To clean brushes, pour the solvent into an old coffee can. For rollers, use an inexpensive aluminum foil loaf pan or a clean roller pan. Solvents are toxic and flammable, so don't smoke or work near a water heater or furnace, and make sure there's plenty of ventilation. Use paper towels to blot out the excess solvent from brushes and rollers, then wash everything in warm, soapy water. Hang up brushes until they're dry; set roller covers on end.
Wipe out, wash, and dry roller pans and paint containers. Wipe off the lips of paint cans and hammer down the lids to preserve leftover paint. Store paint and solvent cans away from extreme heat or cold and out of the reach of children. If you have less than a quart of paint left, store it in a tightly capped glass jar and save it for touch-ups. Brushes and rollers that have been cleaned and dried should be wrapped up before they're stored away. Brushes can go back in the plastic or paper packages they came in, or you can wrap them in aluminum foil. Rollers can be wrapped in kraft paper, foil, or perforated plastic sandwich bags.
To clean reusable drop cloths of heavy-duty plastic or canvas, wipe off major paint splotches with soap and water and paper towels. Don't use solvent on drop cloths, as it may cause them to dissolve. Let them dry thoroughly, fold them up, and store them with your other equipment for the next project.