The Complete Rock Climbing Handbook
Are you interested in rock climbing?
Can't wait to start but having troubles finding what you need without spending a lot of money?
A complete climbing guide that will teach you all you need to know.
From buying the cheap & quality essential gear to techniques & exercises that will get you up there.
Hi,
I'm Jim Brody, originally from Santa Cruz, California.
I started climbing when I was 17 and since then - that's pretty much all I do!
I decided to pass on some of the knowledge I gathered over the years, hoping to get more of you out there climbing. In this article I will mainly cover the different aspects of sport climbing; later on I will write the trad climbing one.
I searched for information about climbing over the net - and I found a lot. All the sites were very informative and true. Even though, I found two major problems. The first one was that I couldn't find anyone summarizing all the information you need to know to start climbing without having to sit and read about it for a couple of days.
Second problem was, I couldn't find anyone's unbiased, professional opinion about what equipment is good and has a descent price for its quality.
That led me to write this article, trying to keep it as simple, true and professional as I can.
On a personal note, if you can, go out there and start climbing as soon as you can, it's addictive!
Enjoy!
I'm Jim Brody, originally from Santa Cruz, California.
I started climbing when I was 17 and since then - that's pretty much all I do!
I decided to pass on some of the knowledge I gathered over the years, hoping to get more of you out there climbing. In this article I will mainly cover the different aspects of sport climbing; later on I will write the trad climbing one.
I searched for information about climbing over the net - and I found a lot. All the sites were very informative and true. Even though, I found two major problems. The first one was that I couldn't find anyone summarizing all the information you need to know to start climbing without having to sit and read about it for a couple of days.
Second problem was, I couldn't find anyone's unbiased, professional opinion about what equipment is good and has a descent price for its quality.
That led me to write this article, trying to keep it as simple, true and professional as I can.
On a personal note, if you can, go out there and start climbing as soon as you can, it's addictive!
Enjoy!
10 reasons to start rock climbing
- For starters, it's a lot of fun.
- It's a great physical work out. Believe me, after climbing some multi-pitch routes, you'll be exhausted.
- It's both a physical and a mental challenge. After topping a killer route you'll feel like you can do anything.
- There are so many climbing sites and routes, you'll never get bored.
- It's a great chance for you to explore the outdoors, and combine it with something you love doing.
- It's a very inexpensive sport. After purchasing the initial gear (approximately 600$) there's a very low maintenance cost (you don't have to pay anyone to climb outdoors...)
- The climbing community is a really cool one. Everybody's eager to help you out if you need them, mutual respect, everywhere I've been around the globe.
- When climbing, climbing is all you think about. You have no choice but clear your head of all the daily concerns, feeling free.
- Unlike any other sport, your climbing partner doesn't have to be at your climbing level. It's every man for himself, challenged only by the rock.
- In conclusion, it's a lot of fun!
What do I basically need?
Good question. Well, the basic equipment includes shoes, rope, harness, chalk, belay device, a helmet, quickdraws & carabiners. I will cover it all in this article.
Also in this article I will give you some good exercises for these climbing muscles and some tips for climbing outdoors.
In addition, a climbing partner is necessary. If you can, learn how to climb with a good friend and later on he will be your climbing partner. If you have friends that are already climbing - it's even better. Another option is to find a climbing partner online.
As I previously said, the climbing community is very welcoming and warm. Don't worry about your skill or knowledge when looking for a partner - Climbing with someone better than you is the best way to progress.
In the next few paragraphs I will elaborate on the different types of equipment you need, how to decide what's good for you & my recommendations.
Also in this article I will give you some good exercises for these climbing muscles and some tips for climbing outdoors.
In addition, a climbing partner is necessary. If you can, learn how to climb with a good friend and later on he will be your climbing partner. If you have friends that are already climbing - it's even better. Another option is to find a climbing partner online.
As I previously said, the climbing community is very welcoming and warm. Don't worry about your skill or knowledge when looking for a partner - Climbing with someone better than you is the best way to progress.
In the next few paragraphs I will elaborate on the different types of equipment you need, how to decide what's good for you & my recommendations.
The rope
The first ingredient in sportive rock climbing is the climbing rope. The ropes in sportive climbing divide into two main categories: Static and Dynamic.
Static rope: most suitable for top-rope climbing and rappelling due to its less elastic nature, in order to reduce bounciness and make it easier for a person to descend. I recommend buying about 60 meters of rope (enough for most cliffs and not too heavy) and 10.3-10.6 mm in diameter. Singing Rock Route 44 static rope.
Dynamic rope: used for lead climbing. The rope has a certain amount of elasticity and therefore relieving the hit on a climber when falling. It is not recommended to use a dynamic rope for any other use because extensive tension on it damages its elasticity. Buy a rope that's 9.6-10.3 mm in diameter (the thinner the rope is it'll be lighter and easier to use. However, it'll wear out faster).
Check out Mammut Promo Dry Rope 10mmx60m.
Few tips:
Static rope: most suitable for top-rope climbing and rappelling due to its less elastic nature, in order to reduce bounciness and make it easier for a person to descend. I recommend buying about 60 meters of rope (enough for most cliffs and not too heavy) and 10.3-10.6 mm in diameter. Singing Rock Route 44 static rope.
Dynamic rope: used for lead climbing. The rope has a certain amount of elasticity and therefore relieving the hit on a climber when falling. It is not recommended to use a dynamic rope for any other use because extensive tension on it damages its elasticity. Buy a rope that's 9.6-10.3 mm in diameter (the thinner the rope is it'll be lighter and easier to use. However, it'll wear out faster).
Check out Mammut Promo Dry Rope 10mmx60m.
Few tips:
- For safety reasons, it is recommended to disqualify the rope 5 years after production.
- Imbedded in the rope is information about the rope's width, brand, year of production and more. In order to get to the information simply cut the rope near its end with a heated, sharp knife.
- After some time using the rope, it may become curled. In order to fix it, tie a little string to each end of the rope and stretch it with a friend. Let all the curling of the rope move to the strings and then cut them.
- When buying a new rope, it is recommended to dip it in a tub of water for a night, to strengthen the rope's fibers and tighten the connection between the rope's core to its outer layer. Do not dry out the rope by hanging it.
- If you're planning on climbing in routes near water or in water, purchase a rope that is water-proof. A little more expensive.
- Never bring any fire, cigarettes, oil or any chemical material near the rope. Never smoke while belaying.
Climbing Shoes
The single piece of climbing equipment that helps you actually climb is your climbing shoes. All of the rest is safety.
The main goal of these shoes is to allow you to balance your weight correctly on small crimps in hard angles. The way the shoe is built is very unique: Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand.
When buying a climbing shoe, it is very important that you go to the store and see that the shoe fits. I've had some rough time adjusting to some of my shoes. What I usually do, I go to my local climbing gear shop and try the shoe on. The shoe should be a little smaller than your normal size, and your toes should be bent down inside. It hurts a little in the beginning. So how would you know If it's good?
1. Walk around with it. After about 10 minutes I try climbing a wall that's in the store. If it doesn't hurt too much - It fits.
2. Check that the heel doesn't slip off. It's very important for bouldering.
3. It's very individual. Go with your instincts.
After finding a good shoe and size at the store, I return to my house and order it through the internet - It's just cheaper...
I climbed with a lot of shoes over the years, and I gathered here the top five climbing shoes exist in the market today for various purposes, based on my experience and experts in the climbing world:
The main goal of these shoes is to allow you to balance your weight correctly on small crimps in hard angles. The way the shoe is built is very unique: Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand.
When buying a climbing shoe, it is very important that you go to the store and see that the shoe fits. I've had some rough time adjusting to some of my shoes. What I usually do, I go to my local climbing gear shop and try the shoe on. The shoe should be a little smaller than your normal size, and your toes should be bent down inside. It hurts a little in the beginning. So how would you know If it's good?
1. Walk around with it. After about 10 minutes I try climbing a wall that's in the store. If it doesn't hurt too much - It fits.
2. Check that the heel doesn't slip off. It's very important for bouldering.
3. It's very individual. Go with your instincts.
After finding a good shoe and size at the store, I return to my house and order it through the internet - It's just cheaper...
I climbed with a lot of shoes over the years, and I gathered here the top five climbing shoes exist in the market today for various purposes, based on my experience and experts in the climbing world:
- Your first shoe must have two characteristics: It will have a rough rubber coating (your toes will have to get use to the stress), a decent all-around shoe and it will have to be cheap (your shoe will wear out fast because of poor technique - trust me).
A descent shoe that comply with the above - the Mammut Psycho.
For a beginner, this would be enough. However, if you want to explore all the variations of climbing and you want to get that specific extra edge - those are my picks: - When you gain more experience, you'll want to upgrade for a better climbing shoe. I seriously recommend The 5.10 Anasazi VCS (Velcro). This one is my all time favorite, The FiveTen leading product. Solid all around shoe that is of the leading climbing shoe in the market. Trust me. Invest the extra buck and earn it back when you climb.
For you La Sportiva fans, a great shoe that stands in the same standards - the La Sportiva Miura.
- Bouldering: A bouldering shoe must be extremely down-turned and aggressive. The La Sportiva Testarossa is a great one for the steep bouldering problems.
Belay device
Belay devices are mechanical pieces of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Every type of climbing including a rope, a belay device is used.
There are belay devices with automatic locking device, that automatically locks the rope in the event of a fall, and some that operates manually.
When choosing a belay device it's important to buy a reliable, known and comfortable product.
Here are two models, one from each category. I recommend buying them both (depending on your budget of course), for you probably won't have to ever change them and their purpose is to save your life.
There are belay devices with automatic locking device, that automatically locks the rope in the event of a fall, and some that operates manually.
When choosing a belay device it's important to buy a reliable, known and comfortable product.
Here are two models, one from each category. I recommend buying them both (depending on your budget of course), for you probably won't have to ever change them and their purpose is to save your life.
- Black Diamond's ATC: A manual belay device. Good and simple. Very convenient in lead climbing. The ATC-XP is a little more advanced, with a half-automatic locking device. The difference is a couple of dollars, and they're both very good.
- Grigri: A belay device with automatic self-locking mechanism, A Petzl patent. Disadvantages: More expensive, you need some skill to pay out slack easily when lead climbing and is a bit heavier. Advantages: Very reliable (no known flaws/malfunctions), Very comfortable in top-rope belaying, Has a lot of usages.
Harness, quickdraws & other equipment
The reason I cover all the rest of the climbing gear together is that it doesn't really affect your climbing ability until you reach real high-level climbing.
For that reason, the main thing you should look for when buying the rest of the equipment is that it's cheap and comply with the safety regulations (UIAA/CEN).
For instance, when buying a harness, you just have to see that it fits you nicely and check for the UIAA/CEN stamp. Later on, when you'll go climbing long multi-pitch and extreme weather routes you'll probably want to invest in a more expensive harness.
So if you like ordering your gear through the net, you don't even need to go to the store first (in exception of the harness, which you'll want to try on first).
With all of that said, here are some of my recommendations (mainly based on cheap prices and the quality of the store - reliability and fast-shipping):
For that reason, the main thing you should look for when buying the rest of the equipment is that it's cheap and comply with the safety regulations (UIAA/CEN).
For instance, when buying a harness, you just have to see that it fits you nicely and check for the UIAA/CEN stamp. Later on, when you'll go climbing long multi-pitch and extreme weather routes you'll probably want to invest in a more expensive harness.
So if you like ordering your gear through the net, you don't even need to go to the store first (in exception of the harness, which you'll want to try on first).
With all of that said, here are some of my recommendations (mainly based on cheap prices and the quality of the store - reliability and fast-shipping):
- Harness: Black Diamond Momentum. Cheap & comfortable.
- Quickdraws: you'll need about 12 to start with. Black Diamond Quicksilver II quickdraw.
- Chalk bag: Black Diamond Survivor Chalk Bag.
- Helmet: very important for the inexperienced climber who doesn't know how to pick a non-crumbling route, save knocked-out climbers etc. I like a helmet to be extremely light and of course, cheap & safe - The Mammut Skywalker Helmet.
- Carabiners: you'll need about 2 to start with. Mammut HMS Screwgate Carabiner.
Starting out
Okay, so I gave you all the basics in equipment, exercises and helpful tips. but how do you actually learn how to climb? how do you tie the knots? use the belay device? get better & better?
Well, you basically have three options:
either you have a good friend who's an experienced climber that have the time and will to teach you, hire a professional guide or you teach yourself with a good book.
If you ask for my advice, assuming you don't have the option of a friend teaching you, I will have to betray my line of work and tell you that if you have a little ambition you don't really need a guide. Just purchase a good climbing book and it's not that big of a deal. Plus, you save a lot of money, for professional guides are most expensive. I never had someone guiding me.
So now we have the question of which book to buy, for there's a lot of climbing books out there, some good, some aren't really. I will have to go with Rick Phillips's "Rock Climbing Essentials".
The man is a climbing genius. All of the instructions, exercises, maneuvers & tips are dead on, and the book is really easy-reading. I wish this book was around when I first started climbing. It would've made my life a lot easier.
Well, you basically have three options:
either you have a good friend who's an experienced climber that have the time and will to teach you, hire a professional guide or you teach yourself with a good book.
If you ask for my advice, assuming you don't have the option of a friend teaching you, I will have to betray my line of work and tell you that if you have a little ambition you don't really need a guide. Just purchase a good climbing book and it's not that big of a deal. Plus, you save a lot of money, for professional guides are most expensive. I never had someone guiding me.
So now we have the question of which book to buy, for there's a lot of climbing books out there, some good, some aren't really. I will have to go with Rick Phillips's "Rock Climbing Essentials".The man is a climbing genius. All of the instructions, exercises, maneuvers & tips are dead on, and the book is really easy-reading. I wish this book was around when I first started climbing. It would've made my life a lot easier.
Tips for the outdoor climber
Are you planning a climbing trip soon?
Take a moment and check out these helpful tips.
Take a moment and check out these helpful tips.
- Before going to the site, make a little research (internet, books or friend): the height of the routes (to bring a rope long enough), what hours of the day the routes are shaded (It's very tough and even dangerous climbing/belying under a hot summer's sun), how many quickdraws you need, the grades of the routes on the site (so they match your level) and walking distance from the parking to the routes.
- You will save yourselves a lot of time if all of you have harnesses of their own. Switching harnesses among yourselves after each climb is a pain.
- It is recommended to go in pairs, so each one has his partner.
- Plan your arrival and climbing time so that you won't get stuck in there at nightfall. Anyways, take a good flash light with you.
- Take a lot of water, especially in the summer. Aside for the obvious dehydration risk, drinking a lot of water prevents tendon infection in your fingers.
- It is very important to do a thorough warm-up before starting to climb.
- Don't eat a heavy meal before a climbing day...
Tell me what you think!
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Feel free to write me at yargo4@gmail.com for any qustions, remarks, or complains you might have.
