The Hoysala Temple of Belur, Karnataka

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Pride of Karnataka: Hoysala Temple, Belur

The Hindu temples in the south of India are known for their beautiful sculptures. The temples are grand and the outer walls are lined with Gods, Goddesses, Demons and Ordinary People. Nowhere is it so apparent as in the temples of Belur and Halebid (or Halebidu, or Halebeedu, as it is called, sometimes) in the state of Karnataka, India. In fact, these temples are the pride of Karnataka Tourism. These ancient Indian temples are one of the must-visit places in Karnataka. These temples are quite near Bangalore and very conveniently accessible by road.
Panels of three dimensional statues (the only temple I know that has such 3-D statues) line the outer wall. The inside of the temple has some exquisitely carved pillars and massive statues. Soapstone is used for these beautiful statues and carvings. I believe, soapstones are very pliable when extracted from earth. It lends itself to intricate carvings. It then solidifies over time.
This photo-lens focuses on the Chennakeshava Temple of Belur, Karnataka.


All photographs in this lens belong to me.

At the Entrance

Narasimha in all his glory

This intricately carved sculpture sits just above the main entrance to the temple. The figure you see is that of Narasimha (nara=man; simha=lion; an incarnation of lord Vishnu) killing an asura (demon). A bit morbid though: if you look closely you can see the chain-like intestine of the asura.

The Dancing Maiden

There are many such statue of maidens in various poses on the outer wall of the temple where the wall meets the roof. The queen of the Hoysalas (the ruling dynasty) is supposed to have been the muse.
Every statue also has tiny figures - in this case, those of musicians. The one on your left is playing a drum. The one on extreme right is playing a flute. One in the middle plays the cymbals.

Where exactly is Belur?

Belur is a sleepy little town located on the banks of River Yagachi. It is in the Hassan district of Karnataka, about 230 km from Bangalore.

Belur was once the capital of the Hoysala Empire.

Belur is considered equivalent to Varanasi (Benaras) and is therefore also known as Dakshina Varanasi.

Lady waiting for her lover

Outer wall - front

The lady is all dressed up but appears sad. Her lover has not yet arrived. There is a small slave girl near her foot (left side) holding a monkey on one hand and grapes on the other. The monkey appears agitated as the grapes is beyond its reach - exactly like the lady, whose happiness seems just beyond reach.

Arjuna Shooting An Arrow

Outer Wall

The hero of the great Indian epic Mahabharata, Arjuna, is seen piercing the eye of a fish. To win the hand of Draupadi, he had to look at the reflection, in a bowl of water, of the fish kept high above on a rotating disk. Needless to say he managed it.

The guide told us that the bow in the sculpture, which has now been by destroyed by vandals, would make a twanging sound when struck.

In spite of the damage, the dynamism inherent in the action is apparent.

Panel - Detail

Outer wall

The wall is covered by such panels all around the star shaped (in plan) temple. This is a detail on the left (that is, on your left when you face the temple) wall.

Shiva - Dancing Away To Glory

Outer wall - back

As should be expected, the temple is lined with statues of gods and goddesses.
This is Shiva, the destroyer - one of three of the Hindu Trinity. He also dances extremely well.

How do you know he is Shiva? See the bull (bottom left), called Nandi, and the Trident in one of Shiva's hands. And he is dancing on a demon who represents ignorance. Basically dance your way out of ignorance!

The sculptor has captured his imagination extremely well.

One of the characteristics of ancient Indian art is the absence of individual names. We would never know these ancient Leonardo's and Rafael's of ancient India.

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Another Maiden!

Inside The Temple

The sculptures inside the temple are a little bigger in size. And hence you can see that these are even more elaborate - if it was possible. It is said that all fashion that has been and that will be are all carved in the various statues in the temple.

The Chennakashava Temple

A last look at the temple!

The pillar stands freely - it is not cemented at the base. In fact one corner does not touch the ground. A marvel in engineering - the centre of gravity passes through the geometric centre of the base and the pillar stands for the last 900 years.

Books on Indian Architecture and Sculpture

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Other destinations in India

The Hindu temples of Belur and Halebid are architecturally similar. While that of the Jain temple of Bahubali at Shravanabelagola is very different. The respective religious influence on the architecture and sculpture is very evident. The Hindu temples are very intricate and elaborate; the Jain temple is stark.

I have now added the wonderful stone and cave temples to my repertoire. Enjoy.
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Amitabh1702

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