Staying at Kings Beach Retreat

Let's get one thing straight at the outset - I am related to the owners of Kings Beach Retreat by marriage and I had stayed there once before in the main house (intriguingly called "the folly"). In 2008 the owners, Ian and Rose Hannaford, decided to turn one building into self-contained guest accommodation for up to four people and invited my wife and I down to take some photos for the upcoming website at Kings Beach Retreat and to get some feedback on the property and its features.

Happy any time to step away from Adelaide down to Kings Beach, Victor Harbor, Middleton or any of the other small yet popular beach destinations on the Fleurieu Peninsula we went down with our little 2 year old boy Charlie (obsessively Charlie Hey) and a camera. Its around 90 minutes from Adelaide, but we came through the hills near Hahndorf (Petaluma, Bridgewater Mill amongst other amazing wineries) and took the scenic route to Goolwa. Being a relative newcomer to South Australia I was particularly impressed by the absolutely stunning scenery as we zipped down the coast. My only regret is not having a motorbike to do the trip with rather than an aging sedan!

Driving past Goolwa airport, I made a mental note to myself to come back and take some joyrides in the many warbirds they have there. I haven't done this before, and have always wanted to being a Biggles fan from way back.

From Jagger Rd just out of Encounter Bay we turned onto the unsealed road (which is now well maintained - I recall wishing I'd had an off road vehicle last time I was here) and head toward the ocean and King's Head. Looking ahead you can only see the deep blue of the Southern Ocean and West Island, a designated conservation park, two or three hundred meters from the cliff and you are surrounded on both sides by rolling hills and there is little sign of the humanity swarming around the more tourist oriented Victor Harbor. Its not until you feel you are about to drive into the ocean that the buildings come into view, nestled sensitively into the surrounding landscape.

Made from dark, organic rammed earth there are two main buildings both with ocean views and individual, eclectic charm. The main building is the residence of architect Ian Hannaford and his wife Rose who paints at the retreat regularly. Ian's designs can be seen in Rundle Street mall and in many commercial and residential projects around Australia, including accommodation on nearby Kangaroo Island. In the main residence there are also a number of works by Robert "Alfie" Hannaford the renowned South Australian artist, who is also Ian's brother. His portrait work for the Archibald is amongst my favourite work, but unfortunately it makes me feel inadequate with regards to my own drawing skills.

From what I have seen of Ian's residential architecture, two main themes emerge. There is the theme of interaction with the environment, which is obvious here from the landscaping to the building materials and the way the property "works" with the sometimes wild and dramatic seas. The other theme which emerges is one of "livability". I keep finding myself "surprised" by spaces that don't want to let me go, that I want to cozy up in, or share a wine with friends and family in. The spaces work well with each other in the main house, so I was keen to see what was in store in the Retreat building.

First impressions of the building ended up lasting a while, as we were greeted by Ian and Rose with a bottle of wine in the entrance courtyard. The courtyard is sheltered and overlooks the ocean and rocks at the bottom of the cliff. The sound of the ocean carrying up to the courtyard had a slightly soporific effect and when added to the some decent McLaren Vale Sauvigon Blanc I didn't end up moving INTO the retreat for some time.

Inside the retreat is dominated by a king-size bed set up above the living space with wide, ceiling height double glass doors allowing uninterrupted views of the ocean and rocks below. The living room boasts reading materials along with other conveniences such as television, DVD player and a sound system.The second bedroom contains a double bed and for the purposes of our stay a port-a-cot for Charlie. There is plenty of room for four guests. Rose had stocked the cupboard with some local treats from the Fleurieu Peninsula including McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek and I was now discussing with my wife how we might actually move in.

There is access to a range of activities, from hiking to hang gliding and by now Ian and Rose also offer meditation, reflexology, tai chi, chi kung, meditation or massage therapy if you are more into recharging the batteries.

For someone like myself, a wander along the beach taking photos is more like it, while watching Charlie dig up crabs from under rocks and give each of them names. Who knew so many crabs were called "chester"? The property is just a two minute walk down a well-maintained private trail from King's Beach, a relatively private swimming beach near Petral Cove. An enormous aboriginal fishing trap has created a calm "pool" on this sheltered ocean beach which makes swimming (and crab collecting) safe and pleasurable in all but the most difficult weather conditions. It was blowing a fairly strong Northerly wind on the days we were there and on the beach it was perfectly calm.

I went for a drive around the local area a couple of times (having managed to forget nappies and food for Charlie) and was happy with the level of nearby amenities, although I was keen to get back to the retreat each time I left. There's something odd about leaving a city (and yes, Adelaide does hustle and bustle on occasion) for peace and quiet and then having to re-enter that kind of urban environment. I can't describe how it feels, but it just feels WRONG.

Having to leave on the Sunday morning we packed up and headed back up to Adelaide, with photos and plenty of ideas for the property. My wife and I offered to do the web site (in the hope of free return visits it must be said) and it is now up and running. For a new South Australian like me, this region is unlike anything that I have experienced in the rest of Australia. I have lived in Sydney, Canberra, Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth and the proximity to Adelaide, the wines, local produce and atmosphere is superb. I would recommend staying at the retreat in a heartbeat, but if its booked you can also choose from Pt Eliot, Goolwa, Middleton and a range of other beach side towns.

Not to be missed if you are visiting SA or Adelaide!