A Tuscan Holiday in Siena, Italy

Siena is a hill town in Tuscany, first settled by the Etruscans, with earliest documentation mentioning the location in AD 70. Legend purports that Siena was founded by Senius, the son of Remus, who was the brother of Romulus, after whom Rome was named. As such, many statues and artwork of a she-wolf nursing the young twins Romulus and Remus can be found around Siena, much like in Rome. Siena did not prosper under Roman rule due to its isolation and lack of roads and nearby trade routes. However, after the Lombards invaded and took control of the city, it began to thrive as an important route to Rome. Siena continued to prosper as a city-state into the 12th century, becoming a major center of money lending and also an important player in the wool trade.

Indeed, in the 13th century Siena was even seen as more powerful than nearby Florence. On September 4, 1260. the Sienese Ghibellines, supported by the forces of King Manfred of Sicily, defeated the Florentine Guelphs in the Battle of Montaperti. Siena's incredible Duomo was completed in the early 13th century, but the Sienese were not satisfied with its magnificence, making plans to expand it further to become the largest cathedral in the world. But then money ran out and in 1348 the Black Death decimated the city, leading some to propose that God was punishing the population of Siena for their greed and egoism.

As such, in many ways the Renaissance passed Siena by as Florence grew in strength and influence. The city's art and architecture remains closely fixed and tied to pre-Renaissance, medieval styles and traditions. But within the city's walls, there is a rich history of art, culture and tradition waiting to be discovered.

Learn more about Siena at Wikipedia.

Siena is easily reached by frequent bus and train service. Trenitalia regularly serves Siena from Florence, with near hourly service most of the day. The ticket cost is quite reasonable (6.30 Euro) and the trip takes less than 2 hours. These are only basic second class trains, however, so you may have a bit of hustling and shuffling to do with your luggage. Reserving tickets in advance on-line is possible through the Trenitalia website, but not always easy to navigate for those who don't read Italian - nor for those with a non-Italian credit card. Automated ticket machines are located in the Siena train station but as of my visit they accept Euro cash only (not credit cards). I would recommend buying your ticket at a ticket counter, however, if you are connecting through to other cities in Italy on your journey. The ticket agents are helpful in recommending the best connections depending on seat availability (and likelihood of making connections, if one train perhaps is running late!)

Be sure to timestamp your ticket before boarding the train to/from Siena and Florence at the appropriate platform, to avoid a potential fine if a ticket inspector happens to come on board!

The SITA bus line is a popular and recommended method of transport between Florence and Siena, often faster than taking the train. The Sena bus service goes to Siena from various other Italian cities, including Rome and Milan.

If you are traveling with a group or just feel like living the luxurious life, private transportation by car or van service is also available from many other Italian cities to Siena.

Siena's main roads are lined with small shops and workshops aimed mostly at separating the tourist from his or her Euros.

Ceramics are big business in Siena, and you will find many shops filled with beautiful bowls, plates, cookware, tiles and other decorative items for your home. Look for one selling uniquely Sienese designs (such as the symbols and colors of Siena's Contrade) and where you can see an artist actually at work in the studio. There are of course many other shops in Siena, selling everything from fine Italian leather to unique perfumes and delicious food products, spices and wines.

Most shops in Siena can easily arrange for shipping goods home, a must if you are tempted by any large ceramics or works of art. Bring cash and you might be able to negotiate a better price as well. Most of all, take some time wandering the smaller streets and alleys, where you might find unique craftsmen at work, happy to welcome you in to visit their studio. It will give you a taste of Siena's culture and history most tourists will never experience.

Foodies will find much to delight in when visiting Siena. Sienese food is largely Tuscan in style, with an emphasis on pork and game meat such as rabbit. In my experience, restaurants in Siena tend to be less touristy (at least if you dine in the evenings) and also less expensive than Florence - although there are some locations where one can truly splurge. You may find my "Dining Out in Italy" guide helpful in selecting a good restaurant in Siena, as well as knowing what best to order.

For day time meals, it is best to enjoy Siena with light bites as you explore. Although many hotels in Siena offer breakfast buffet service, step outside and up to one of Siena's many cafes and bars for a cappuccino and sweet pastry, as the Italians do. Enjoy a hot panini sandwich for lunch out on the Campo, then cool off with a cup of gelato as you walk. Later in the day, pause for an aperitif - around 5 or 6 pm, most bars will offer free snacks and mini sandwiches to go with your drink, to keep you satisfied until a later suppertime. You will also find many places in Siena to buy unique food products to take home such as unusual pasta shapes, olive oils, chocolate, cured meats, cheeses and spices.

The photos used on this page, unless otherwise indicated, were taken by myself, sockii, during a June 2011 trip to Siena. You can view my complete Siena photo set here on Flickr:

* Siena 2011 Photoset

Please leave a comment or otherwise contact me if you would like to use any of these images elsewhere. I hope you've enjoyed them and that they've given you a taste for the beauty of Siena!