The Culture of Pearls

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Precious Pearl, the Queen of Gems

Pearls! We have adorned ourselves with these lucent orbs since our earliest ancestors first prised open an oyster to find one. They are often referred to as Aphrodite's Tears of Joy, a fitting gem for that most lovely goddess.

Once pearls were so rare, and so expensive, that only the most noble or the most rich people in the world could ever hope to own one. Pearls were fashioned into glorious ropes of necklaces, glowing earrings, delicate bracelets and sewn into gorgeous gowns so studded with pearls that they could stand up on their own.

Today, most pearls are "cultured," farmed in seeded oyster and mussel beds and also of extremely high quality and beauty.

The pearl is indeed the Queen of gems and the gem of Queens.

Pearls in the Past

From China to Rome

In India it is said that Krishna found the first pearl. The Chinese Emperors prized them, the Greeks loved their unrivaled beauty, and the Egyptians were buried with them.

In Rome, the Emperor Vitellius had financed an entire military campaign by selling one of his mother's pearl earrings.

Cleopatra reportedly dissolved and drank one in a bet

The most expensive meal in history

The tale of Cleopatra's Pearl

A story has it that Cleopatra bet Marc Antony a large sum of money that she could host the most expensive meal in history.

Afterward an extraordinary meal of exotic foods, Cleopatra removed one of her pearl earrings and dropped it into a goblet of wine vinegar. This single pearl was said to be exquisitely beautiful and as expensive as "the value of 15 countries."

In any case, it was worth a fortune.

The pearl dissolved in the vinegar and Cleopatra drank it. Antony conceded defeat. The value of that single drink had indeed been more expensive than any meal in history.

Where do Pearls come from?

Both natural and cultured pearls

Natural pearls form when a parasite burrows through a mollusk's shell and into the mantle tissue. The mollusk's defensive reaction is surround the intruder with a membrane known as a pearl sac. As it continues to grow -- a pearl grows.

Damage to the mollusk's shell has also been known to cause natural pearl formation. A grain of sand does NOT produce a pearl.

Cultured pearls are produced by introducing a nucleus and a piece of donor-mollusk tissue in the pearl oyster.

KIng Charles Pearl

Is the pearl lost ?

A famous pearl, now lost, destroyed, or hidden away by a discreet collector, once belonged to King Charles I.

Artist Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641) painted several portraits of the king, many of which show a large drop pearl hanging from his left ear. In the portrait, Charles I, King of England, from Three Angles, 1636, which is now on display at the Windsor Castle in the UK, a clear representation of this great pearl is visible.

King Charles I was executed in 1649 and as the pearl was so greatly coveted, it was said that as soon as his head had fallen from his body, a horde of witnesses surged forward to steal the prized gem.

La Peregrina, the Pilgrim

The Perfect Pearl

La Peregrina, the Pilgrim, is an incomparable pearl. It's celebrated not only for its great size, but also its perfect pear shape, and bright white colouration.

It traveled from one of the Spanish colonies in South America in the 16th century and was presented to Philip II of Spain in about 1574.

It's a magnificent jewel and Philip's wife, the elegant Mary, wears it in almost all her portraits as queen. The pearl was acknowledged to be beyond any standard valuation.

Later it belonged to Queen Margaret of Spain (pictured) as well as to Joseph Bonaparte, another king of Spain. It ended up with the son of the Emperor Napoleon III and then made its way into the hands of the English Marquis of Abercorn.

La Peregrina is now owned by Elizabeth Taylor.

Elizabeth and La Peregrina 

La Pellegrina, the Incomparable

Was this pearl part of the Crown Jewels of France?

To this day no one is sure if a pearl named 'La Pellegrina' and another pearl 'La Reine De Pearl' are the same pearl, or two.

The historical records of La Pellegrina state that the saltwater pearl was found off the coast of South America and was once a part of the Spanish Crown Jewels. The description of the pearl itself is remarkably similar to that of La Reine De Pearls

La Reine de Pearl, a reported 27.5 carats, was once a part of the Crown Jewels of France. It's listed in the French inventory in 1791 with an astonishing value of 200,000 francs. It's described as "a virgin pearl, perfect, round, and of fine water">.

The majority of the French Crown Jewels were stolen in 1792, including 'La Reine De Pearl'. Many believe this pearl made its way into the possession of the Zozima Brothers (jewelers of the Czar of Russia), who promptly renamed the gem 'La Pellegrina'.

La Pellegrina itself disappeared for a number of years. It had been quietly tucked away by a collector, only to resurface in 1967 to be auctioned off at Christie's auction house ior 463,800. English Pounds

The Hope Pearl

The largest and most famous natural saltwater pearl is the Hope Pearl, an astonishing gem.

The pearl weighs 1,800 grains (450 carats), or approximately 4 ounces! The Hope pearl is coloured a dark bronze at the bottom of a drop shape, grading into white. It's thought that this pearl grew attached to the shell and was carefully removed and smoothed where it was separated from the shell.

The Hope Pearl was once owned by Henry Philip Hope, the one-time owner of the Hope Diamond. After remaining in the Hope Jewel collection at a South Kensington Museum for many years, it has since been sold and is the property of a private collector.

Pearl of Allah

The ugliest Pearl in the world

The Peatl of Allah is called the Ugliest Pearl in the World. This giant, non-nacreous natural blister pearl was taken from a giant clam, Tridacna Gigas, in the waters off the Philippines in 1934. It's one of the largest, most valuable pearls ever to be discovered and documented.

Archeologist Wilburn Cobb brought the pearl to New York in 1939 and had it authenticated as a genuine tridacna pearl described as being almost 14 pounds and 9 inches long. Contrary to the perfectly shaped orbs with pearlescent sheens, this pearl was grotesquely irregular in shape with many tortuous surfaces, much like a brain, and had a matte, porcelain-like surface.

Cobb exhibited the pearl at Ripley's Believe It Or Not! Odditorium in New York City, where it was claimed to be the largest in the world.

The definitive book on pearls

The Pearl Book, 3rd Edition: The Definitive Buying Guide: How to Select, Buy Care for & Enjoy Pearls

Amazon Price: $4.95 (as of 05/27/2012)Buy Now

Tells you everything you need to know about pearls. The folklore and history of pearls, descriptions of the different types of pearls, and advice on the selection and care of pearls.

An excellent compilation of pearl varieties and clear explanations of how to identify quality within each variety. Essential for buyers.

"The Girl with a Pearl Earring" 

About the Girl with the Pearl

By Johannes Vermeer

The painting, Girl with a Pearl Earring (Het Meisje met de Parel) in The Mauritshuis in The Hague is one of Vermeer's masterworks.

The portrait is sometimes referred to as "the Mona Lisa of the North" or "the Dutch Mona Lisa".

Pearl History in Australia

Broome, located in the far north of Western Australia, was a thriving pearl town in the old days. Once the pearl luggers worked their dangerous way in the waters off Broome and pearls helped create the distinctive multicultural charm of the town.

In the 1870s, Europeans noticed the large Pinctada maxima oyster off the east coast of Australia. Soon the Aboriginal women who dived for shellfish in these waters were outumbered by the Sri Lankan divers intent on harvesting the oysters. The Mother of Pearl shell was used across the world to make buttons, and more and more shell was needed.

In the beginning, the oysters were so plentiful they could be picked up at low tide while walking along the sand. Of course they were soon depleted and more sophisticated diving methods had to be used. By the 1930s, motorised pearl luggers with mechanical air pumps were everywhere to be seen.

The work was hard, and fraught with dangers. In the Japanese section of the cemetry are the graves of almost one thousand divers. Enter Kokichi Mikimoto, and the cultured pearl industry. In less than 50 years, the Queen of Gems, once the exclusive possession of royalty, became available to almost everybody. The days of diving beneath the waters for pearls has gone but the memory remains in luggers still plying the pearl routes, this time with tourists.

The most feminine gem

Pearls have been a source of fascination for centuries as the most magical and feminine of all gems.

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  • consrnorant Apr 18, 2011 @ 5:49 pm | delete
    re: King Charles Pearl

    Charles I's earring is owned by the Dukes of Portland, Welbeck Abbey in Nottinghamshire.
    A mob in fact did not rip the earring from his head.
    Clearly urban myth at it's mosr go
  • Ramkitten Jan 3, 2010 @ 7:52 pm | delete
    Very interesting stuff, Susanna! And "Girl With A Pearl Earring" is one of my favorite paintings. (Loved the film too.) I've never owned a real pearl, but they sure are pretty.
  • Pukeko Jan 3, 2010 @ 7:46 pm | delete
    Beautiful lens on pearls.
  • Wednesday_Elf Dec 26, 2009 @ 8:49 am | delete
    Interesting history of Pearls and fascinating stories about the most famous Pearls in the world.
  • rockycha Oct 3, 2008 @ 5:10 pm | delete
    Excellent work on this lens, great info and graphics. Blessed by A Squid Angel.

About Me!Julia Pearce!

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jmsp206

Pearls are so amazingly beautiful and feminine.

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