African Cichlids of Lake Malawi

Metriaclima estherae (or Maylandia) (Red Zebra cichlid)  This is a very popular cichlid species kept in aquariums. It is one of the more aggressive, so cichlid breeders and hobbyists often get more than they bargained for! M. Estherae is a very active fish with beautiful colors. Males aren't usually red as the name suggests, but typically are bright powder blue, and the females a unique orange. Although they have not been confirmed in the wild, orange males are common in the aquarium. Orange males are not the same rich orange color of the females, but rather a lighter orange, with a faint blue cast. Females can not only be orange (red), but can also be orange blotched. Avoid Malawi cichlids of the same genus or color in your aquarium. Other than that, you should be able to mix these guys with plenty of other African cichlids. Just stock your fish tank with plenty of rock, and areas where they can establish their territory without feeling threatened. They do much better in a longer aquarium rather than tall. 

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For best results with your Red Zebra Cichlids, feed them food that will promote the brilliant orange/red colors they are known for. Foods such as New Life Spectrum and Cyclops are two  foods that are most widely used. Like most Mbuna (rock dwellers), they are best kept with 2-3 females for each male. Provide the female cichlid with plenty of cover in the fish tank to hide from the aggressive male. Follow the same steps you would with breeding any mouthbrooder.

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Labidochromis caeruleus (electric yellows) This is one of the most commonly kept African Cichlids, due to ease of keeping as well as its beautiful coloration. When they were first introduced to hobbyists they were quite expensive. They are fairly easy to keep, and can be enjoyed by both beginners and experienced aquarists alike. They are commonly known as Electric yellows or yellow labs. Males generally grow up to 5 inches in length while the females usually approach only 4 inches. These cichlids offer a strikingly deep yellow body, with black fins and highlights. The males have darker fins, and will tend to have a black strip through the eyes as well. They do not show egg spots, unlike most other mbunas. The black streak along the top of the dorsal fin turns blue on males during breeding. Can be occasionally aggressive, most commonly while breeding, however, they can also be very timid if kept alone, and usually require more aggressive fish as tankmates to draw them out. Mbuna Cichlids such as the Auratus, Cobalt Blue, Johanni, Pindani, Red Zebra, Tropheops, and Kenyi are the most compatible. You might also throw in a synodontis catfish. Dolphin cichlids in the same tank seem to always draw them out.

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Algae and spirulina flakes are an important basic food of the Electric Yellows. They will also eat flake foods, cichlid pellets, freeze-dried bloodworms and small fish. You should be careful with live worms or live brine shrimp, as these can potentially bloat and kill the fish, although the Electric Yellow is less susceptible than other mbunas. Males show much more aggressive behavior when ready to breed. You should perform a water change, and if possible, raise the temperature a couple of degrees. As with the other breeds, allow only one male to several females.  Electric Yellows are mouth brooders.  The female cares for 10 to 25 eggs in her mouth, and will keep the fry in her mouth for up to 3 weeks.  The female should be kept alone after breeding. The fry can be fed brine shrimp, or mashed spirulina powder. You may have to isolate the female from the young to prevent her from eating her babies.

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