Alaska in a week - or two!

Your first big decision: independent travel or packaged tour?

• Independent travel - plan your own trip to fit your specific interests.
  
  If you enjoy maximum flexibility and don't mind doing some research, you can custom design your own trip. The Internet and enough guide books to fill a small library offer all the information you need. I'll offer some suggestions in this lens to get you started, but the final decision should be based on what you'd enjoy.

• A package tour. Some travelers prefer to let professionals arrange all the details. About all you need to do is write the check and then show up at the airport or cruise terminal.
  
  The possibilities cover a huge range of costs and options, so be sure to read the fine print and look for some comments on-line about specific companies and tours, to be sure the trip you select will fit your personal preferences. If you know of friends who have used the tour company you're considering, be sure to ask about their experience.
  

  
  Packaged trips include an Inside Passage cruise (usually departing from either Seattle or Vancouver, B.C.); a combination of a flight to an Alaskan gateway such as Anchorage and a ground tour by bus and/or train; or, depending upon your budget and time, a combination of all three.
  
  Like any other travel options, there are pros and cons to any of these approaches. You'll find plenty of information on the Web and in guidebooks about packaged tours.
  
  This lens will focus on independent travel, and will include a few strictly personal opinions that I hope can help you decide if this is a good choice for you and everyone else in your group.

Getting there and getting around.

Here are five key travel options for your trip to and within Alaska.

1. Several major air carriers serve the main Alaska gateway city of Anchorage, and numerous small airlines serve destinations across the state, so shop the Internet for the best deal.
   
   The one large commercial airline connecting many parts of Alaska with the Lower 48 is Alaska Airlines, and our experiences with this company have been very positive. Click on the logo below for flight information, schedules, reservations, city guides, vacation packages and more information.
   
   
   

2. You can't get to Alaska by train from the rest of the world, but once you're in the state, the Alaska Railroad offers a fun, comfortable and scenic way to reach some key destinations. Click here for schedules, a rail map, photo gallery, and rail tour information.
   

   
   

   
   

3. Alaska Marine Highway is the official website for the Alaska state ferries, officially known as the Alaska Marine Highway. There are some prime destinations in Alaska that can only be reached by boat or plane. The state ferries provide a good option for many destinations along the coast. You can even design your own budget "Inside Passage" cruise using the ferry system. Just don't expect the same level of creature comforts as on a cruise ship.

   
   

   
   

4. Don't overlook a rental car for travel within parts of Alaska - an option which we used on a recent trip, and which provides maximum flexibility. You can set your own schedule and stop when and where you want.
   
   We found the best value by reserving a car in Anchorage in January for a trip the following June, and using an off-airport location to save airport franchise taxes.
   
   Be aware that most rental companies will not allow you to take their vehicles off of paved highways, but for most short, introductory trips to the state, that isn't a problem.

5. The Inside Passage cruise is another way to sample the southeast part of the state. You'll find plenty of information on these trips on-line and in guidebooks. Several guidebooks are suggested a little later in this lens.
   
   
   

Destination #1 - Seward

This small town southeast of Anchorage is accessible by either road and train. Because it's located on the coast, Seward offers a totally different experience from Anchorage, Denali and other locations in the interior of the state.

The 5 hour trip on the Alaska Railroad offers world-class scenery, and the views from the highway are pretty nice, too, if you prefer to drive. My suggestion: make this your first destination after you arrive in Anchorage, take the train, and save a couple of days of rental car costs.

The train from Anchorage to Seward leaves early morning; the return trip leaves Seward late afternoon. This route is seasonal, so check the Alaska Railroad website for details. The view below is from the train south of Anchorage.



I'd suggest you spend at least one night in Seward and then return to Anchorage by train. Details about Seward, things to see and do, how to get around without a car, and where to stay are available at the site for the Seward Conference and Visitors Bureau.

Here are some suggestions for things to do in the Seward area:

1. Several well-established companies offer boat trips from Seward that allow you to sample Kenai Fjords National Park. If you're lucky, these trips offer the chance to see whales, sea otters, seals, sea lions, bears, eagles, glaciers and other natural wonders.
   
   
   
   The longer (6 to 8 hour) boat trips include some time in the open waters of the Gulf of Alaska, so go prepared in advance with medication to prevent seasickness in case the water is rough. The shorter trips stay within more protected waters, but offer fewer opportunities for wildlife viewing.
2. Want to see a glacier from close range? (Well, just close enough to be safe!) A short drive north of Seward is Exit Glacier, the only part of Kenai Fjords National Park accessible by car. You can take a trail from the visitor center to a viewpoint near the glacier, or better yet, join one of the free, ranger-guided hikes to learn even more. Get details at the park's website.
   
   

3. The Alaska Sea Life Center is an incredible facility worth at least several hours of your time. You'll have the chance to see a variety of marine life up close and learn about these unique birds, mammals and fish. This is also a great spot to spend some time if your visit coincides with a rainy day.

Destination #2 - Denali National Park

Don't miss the highest mountain in North America!

• It's about a five hour drive from Anchorage to Denali over a modern highway. The best views of the mountain are from overlooks in Denali State Park, as you approach the national park from the south. You can't see Denali at all from the main entrance to the park.
  
  Due to it's height, the mountain is often obscured by clouds. Your best chance for a good view is earlier rather than later in the day. We were fortunate to have a good view of the peak on 2 of the three days we were there on our last trip.
  
  In addition to incredible scenery, the park offers wonderful opportunities for wildlife watching and photography, such as this grizzly and her young cub. Just get - and follow - the advice of rangers, and stay a safe distance from wildlife. We took this photo on one of the park shuttle bus trips.

  
  
  

• With limited exceptions, vehicle access into the interior of the park is limited to shuttle buses. These buses are a great way to enjoy the view and leave the driving to a professional, but it's important to get information and make reservations in advance. See the park's website for complete information to help plan your visit and to reserve a seat on a bus trip into the park.

Have a few more days? Here's optional destination #3.

The Palmer - Glenn Allen - Valdez - Whittier - Anchorage loop

• We drove south from Denali toward Anchorage, then turned east through Palmer toward the small town of Glenn Allen. There aren't many places to spend the night on this stretch of road, so do your homework in advance. We enjoyed a stay at a spot called Sheep Mountain Lodge. The view below was from just in front of our cabin about 10 pm.
  
  
• Glenn Allen is a small town that serves as the jumping off place for trips into the true wilderness of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest national park in the U.S. The park headquarters just south of Glenn Allen has a wonderful visitor center, film, exhibits and a short walking trail.
  
  You can enjoy some beautiful views of the edge of the park from the highway that leads south from Glen Allen to Valdez, and the spectacular scenery continues all the way to Valdez. Allow a day for this drive - you'll want to stop for photos!The photo below is a view of the small boat harbor at Valdez.

  
  

• Valdez is the literal end of the road, but to avoid retracing your route, you can take the Alaska State Ferry from Valdez to Whittier, and then drive on to Anchorage. The ferry does not run every day and the schedule is seasonal, so again, get good information and make a reservation in advance. Get details at the Alaska Marine Highway website.
  
  This ferry is modern, comfortable, fast and a platform for some scenery that defies description. Here's one sample of a view from the ferry.
  
  

When to go.

A word about moose.