Making Jewellery with Amethysts and Wraptite settings
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Making Jewellery
This lens is about using Wraptite, sometimes called "tension wire", settings to make jewellery. Wraptite settings work by wrapping round the edge of a cut stone or cabochon and holding it in place by pressure. To use these you only need tweezers and a pair of pliers to get started, making it a simple technique for beginners.
Contents
Other ways to set gems
Gem setting for beginners
Wraptite settings are a very basic way to set gems, but they aren't the only way suitable for beginners. If you have never set a gem before I would recommend visiting the lens below and selecting one of the starter methods (backset, prong or snaptite) to give you a chance to get used to it.
What you will need
Supplies to start setting gems
As with all my gem-setting lenses there is no need for special tools when you get started. A pair of tweezers, pliers, a setting and a stone to fit is all you need. If you decide to go further, then you may want to invest in a greater range but at the start that isn't necessary.
- 1A Setting - I would recommend a silver or plated setting to save costs, and because they are easy to work with.
- 2A Gemstone You can use a cabochon or faceted stone. Many people prefer cabochons as the flat back means it sits neatly in the setting. It needs to fit the setting.
- 3Tweezers A pair of slant nosed tweezers are very useful for find adjustments.
- 4Pliers Long nose pliers are essential for this, as you will need the pliers to bend the setting into place around the stone. It is best to get ones with smooth inner surfaces so the teeth don't leave marks on the wire.
Tools for setting stones
Tools for beginners
Suggest tools to start with
All you need to get started and make your first pieces using this method are a pair of tweezers and long-nosed pliers. Home DIY tools will do, or the type you can get from any hardware shop. The only thing to watch is that you don't leave teethmarks from the pliers on the setting, and tweezers with a needle-fine point increase the risk of scratching the stone if you are a beginner.
If you take this up longer term, you may want to get a kit containing with a range of different pliers for different shapped settings, and smooth gripping faces so they don't leave marks.
If you take this up longer term, you may want to get a kit containing with a range of different pliers for different shapped settings, and smooth gripping faces so they don't leave marks.
Finding a setting
Finding a setting
Where to begin
These settings are said to be designed for beginners, but in practice I found them more fiddly to use than prong or backset settings. Wrap-tite wire settings are one of the few where I have found a slightly large stone (6mm-10mm) was easy for me to work with as a beginner. As with all stones, as the stone gets larger so does the setting. However with these settings you need to fit it precisely round the cut edge, so a larger stone can make it easier to ensure it sits straight.
They can also be difficult to find. Not only do they appear under a range of names and spellings (Wrap-tite, Wraptite, tension wire, channel wire...) they are slightly more complex to use than other settings so tend to appear in more specialist suppliers. Two are given below:
They can also be difficult to find. Not only do they appear under a range of names and spellings (Wrap-tite, Wraptite, tension wire, channel wire...) they are slightly more complex to use than other settings so tend to appear in more specialist suppliers. Two are given below:
- Kernowcraft - Link Settings
- A british firm specialising in jewellery, offering Wraptite Link Settings, which can be used for pendants or linked to make bracelets and more complex pieces.
- Wrap Tite Cabochon Settings - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
- US-based. Sterling silver Wrap-Tite® settings are great for faceted stones and cabochons. Single ring settings are excellent, easy settings for any cabochon or faceted stone. Simply insert a stone, listen for the click and cinch the small ring with needle-nose pliers. Great for earrings, brac...
Important!
Naming confusion
These settings are sometimes also called "Channel Wire". Do not confuse "channel wire" with channel settings, where a row of stones are held in a channel between two metal bars.
Finding a stone
Finding a stone
Finding something to practice on
Amythests are usually rated for the clarity of colour, and as with all stones for their size and freedom from damage or occlusions (dirt of cracks in the stone that marr it). If you are practicing, going for a lower quality stone can let you buy a larger one quite cheaply.
For example, my first practice stone for this setting was an 10mm x 8mm Amythest. Value on the open market? About 50p. It has a crack right through the center.
For example, my first practice stone for this setting was an 10mm x 8mm Amythest. Value on the open market? About 50p. It has a crack right through the center.
Cabochons
An alternative approach
As an alternative to cut stones, cabochons can be used. This is because the flat back makes them more comfortable to wear in this style of setting. With a cut stone, the wire will sit at the front of the stone (so something with a large point on the back can scratch the wearer), while with a cabochon the stone rises forward from the setting.
Round and Oval cabochons are the easiest for beginners to set, and also the easiest to find settings for.
Round and Oval cabochons are the easiest for beginners to set, and also the easiest to find settings for.
More amethyst gemstones
Others places to find Amethysts
For a more complete range, including green Amethysts, bulk lots, and UK suppliers, please view the lens below:
Making the jewellery
How to make the jewellery
What to do next
Making the jewellery is very simple:
If you don't feel a click the setting may be slightly too large or have been distorted during shipping. This is when the pliers are useful to pinch the setting closed round the gem.
- 1Put the gem on a flat surface, with the flat side downwards. If you are using a cabochon, this will be the back, for a faceted stone it is more likely to be the front.
- 2Press the wire down over it, pushing on the ends to open it out slightly, until the seting is level with the edge of the stone.
- 3Once the setting is in place you may feel it click.
If you don't feel a click the setting may be slightly too large or have been distorted during shipping. This is when the pliers are useful to pinch the setting closed round the gem.
Important!
Tight settings
These settings can be tight, so warming them in your hand or in warm water can make it easier to work with as the metal expands.
A demonstration
Cab-tite and Wrap-tite
This video from Fire Mountain Gems shows how to use Wrap-tite settings, starting at 2:00. Before that they demonstrate Cab-tite, a version of prong setting also used with cabochons.
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Amethyst jewellery ready-made
Ready-to-wear
For a selection of ready-made and professionally-created amethyst jewellery, try this lens:
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