Appliance Parts

Use the coupon code FIVEPERCENT at AP Wagner and save 5% off your first purchase at AP Wagner!

Appliances account for a large percentage of your annual energy bill! Spending a little time making sure they are running properly can save you lots of green!

1.Make sure that your refrigerator has a few inches of space behind it so air can circulate around the condenser coils. The appliance that uses the most energy is the refrigerator.
2.Dusty condenser coils cause your refrigerator to work harder, leading to higher bills, and a shorter life for the fridge. Clean them with a vacuum, duster, or a cleaner every three months to ensure it is running efficiently. If you have pets clean it every month. You can find vacuum attachments, dusters, and cleaner at www.apwagner.com
3.How cold is your refrigerator? Having it too cold can be a waste of energy. It is recommended that the temperature for the refrigerator is 37 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and that the freezer is 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit.
4.Is your refrigerator full? A fuller fridge ensures the temperature is evenly distributed. If you have a lot of room in your refrigerator, fill some containers with water, and fill in the space. If that doesn't work, consider a smaller fridge.
5.Make sure your fridge gasket is clean and does not have any holes or cracks in it. The gasket's job is to keep the cold air in and the warm air out. If it is not working properly the refrigerator will work harder keeping the air cold, and thus lead to a larger energy bill.
6.Wash clothes in cold water if possible. Most of the energy used for machine-washing clothes goes to heating the water.
7.Is the lint screen on your dryer clean? A clogged lint screen makes the dryer use more energy. In addition to that it can also become a fire hazard.
8.Dry one load right after the other. This will reduce warm-up and drying times.
9.Set the fan on your central air conditioner to "on", rather then "auto". Doing this will circulate the air constantly, leading to a more evenly distributed temperature throughout the house.
10. Maintain your central air conditioner by cleaning the compressor with a garden hose. Make sure the power-flow is off before you do this.

If your appliance is broken, don't replace it, visit www.apwagner.com for all your appliance part needs, and detailed repair help!

Question 1: Why doesn't my humidifier work at all?

Answer 1: A humidifier's main control feature is a humidistat. If it's not functioning properly, it won't let your humidifier work. Other problems could include a valve, motor, or transformer. Whenever your furnace or air conditioning unit is running, your humidifier should run as well. Most humidifiers work by evaporation.

Question 2: Why does my humidifier leak?

Answer 2: Your household water supply feeds the humidifier. Yours may have a reservoir or use a continuous flow system. Check the water connections and valves for leaks. Reservoir systems use a float ball to control the level of water in the holding tank. Make sure the float is working properly. If your humidifier is a continuous flow set-up,you want to make sure that all the hoses, valves, and tubing are connected tightly. Plastic fittings and hoses have a tendency to break down over time. You will also want to make sure that the filter and drain lines aren't clogged or kinked in any way. Due to expansion from heat, and contraction from cold, sometimes fittings become loose. Put a wrench on and snug the connections to make sure they are all tight.

Question 3: Why is my humidifier so noisy?

Answer 3: When a humidifier is operating, it is going to make some sounds. You might hear water gurgling or sloshing around, and that's normal. You may hear the fan spinning through the air, or hear the hum from the fan motor. Even the solenoid valve makes normal sounds. There's not a lot to do to fix this problem, unless it gets so noisy that you want to replace the parts.

Question 4: Why is there no water going through the flow pad?

Answer 4: Check the water inlet valve, and any hoses or tubing for kinks. Test the water inlet valve coil for continuity. If you have a clogged valve, you may be able to clean it out. It is also possible for the humidistat to burn out.

Question 5: Why doesn't the pad spin?

Answer 5: The water pad normally gets turned through the water reservoir by a small electric motor. Sometimes this motor can burn out. If the furnace blower is on, and the humidistat is calling for more water, and the motor doesn't spin, it's time to replace this motor.

For more appliance repair help, and for all your appliance part needs, visit www.apwagner.com.

Question 1: Why is there no hot water?

Answer 1: Check to make sure the unit has power. Hot water dispensers usually run off of 110V outlets. To verify power to the unit, you can plug in a different appliance, such as a hair dryer. If you have no power, check the fuse or circuit breaker.
On many hot water dispensers, there is an overload safety switch. Other models may have an internal fuse that may have blown. To reset an overload switch, simply push it in. Wait 15-20 minutes and check to see if you have hot water. If you have your hot water dispenser plugged in to an outlet, make sure that if the outlet is operated by a switch, that the switch is in the ON position. Perhaps your cold water is still getting heated. Turn the thermostat to the Maximum heat position.
Occasionally, the heating element will burn out. Some models have replaceable heating elements. Check your owner's manual to see if yours is one of them.

Question 2: Why is the water too hot?

Answer 2: When a hot water dispenser is first installed, it may be set to a certain temperature. It initially boils the water, then maintains it at the set temperature. If you want yours hotter or cooler, you can sometimes adjust this setting with a thermostat.

Question 3: Why does it constantly sound like the water is boiling?

Answer 3: The hot water dispenser will usually boil the water first, and then maintain the temperature at the set point of the thermostat. The altitude at which you live helps determine the air pressure. Low air pressure leads to a lower boiling point for water. Are you in an area of high elevation? If you think the water is boiling, you can lower the thermostat settings on many models.

Question 4: Why is the faucet leaking?

Answer 4: As water heats up, it increases in volume by expansion. Sometimes a faucet will drip from the excess pressure. A little may be normal, but if there's a lot, there's a problem. Determine exactly where it's leaking from and proceed from there. Sometimes the water valve packing can go bad or washers can wear out.

Question 5: Why does my water taste bad?

Answer 5: If your water tastes bad, verify that your water supply line is attached to the cold water supply, not the hot water supply. You may want to add a water filtration system to the supply. Sometimes, if you haven't used the dispenser in several days, three days or more, you will want to purge the system of old water. Hold open the cap for two or three minutes to purge the old water from the tank. Allow it to heat up to the desired temperature, and dispense again. The bad taste should be gone if that was the problem.

For more appliance repair help, and for all your appliance part needs, visit www.apwagner.com.

Question 1: Why doesn't my Gas Range work at all?

Answer 1: Check to see whether or not there's power to the range. Is the gas on at your range? Are the pilot flames lit? Not all gas ranges require electrical power. If your range uses electronic components such as: a clock, electronic igniter, self-cleaning, or other electronic features, the unit needs electricity to function correctly. If your range has electronic components, do any of them turn on? If they don't, you want to check your fuse box or circuit breaker panel.

Question 2: Why is there a red glow in my oven, but it isn't heating?

Answer 2: If you have a glow-bar ignition system, the glow-bar may be old and going bad. It will still glow, but not hot enough to open the gas safety valve. This is a safety feature that ensures there won't be any gas available if it won't ignite for sure. Try replacing the igniter. It's a relatively cheap part to replace.

Question 3: Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

Answer 3: The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.
Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.
On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.
Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Question 4: Why doesn't the burner work?

Answer 4: Make sure you have turned the knob to the light position first. Then turn the knob to the desired heat setting after you have a flame. If you have recently cleaned your range, are you sure everything is dry? Moisture may prevent the electric ignition from working properly. If you hear clicking when the burner is supposed to be off, make sure the knob is turned all the way to off, and that the knob has popped out.
Range burners are round and have small holes evenly placed around their perimeter. These holes allow gas to flow out and create a controlled flame when lit. Sometimes the gas orifices get plugged and the gas can't get through to be ignited. The trick is to clean them without making the holes any bigger. You need to clean the burners thoroughly. Many people use a toothpick, old toothbrush, or a small pin to clear the holes, allowing the gas to flow freely. If, after cleaning the burners, they still don't light, you should call a professional appliance repair person.
Sometimes ranges have different size burners on them. If you have recently cleaned the burners, it is possible you put a small burner cap on the large burner, or vice versa. Double check to make sure this isn't the problem, and make sure they are seated properly.

Question 5: Why does my oven smoke so much when I broil foods?

Answer 5: It is possible that your oven has accumulated a buildup of grease that is now burning off. Another reason could be that the broiler pan is upside down and enabling the grease drippings to burn up from the broiler. You should also make sure to give the meat enough clearance from the flames.

For more appliance repair questions answered, and for all you appliance part needs, visit www.apwagner.com

Question 1: Why won't my electric range turn on?

Answer 1: First, check to make sure that the range is not in self-cleaning mode. You will not be able to turn on the oven with this feature running. If that's not the problem, check the fuse-box or circuit breakers, and then the wiring at the terminal in the back of the range. You can test the voltage at the outlet with an appropriate voltmeter.

Question 2: Why won't my surface burner warm up?

Answer 2: Many times a surface burner element can burn out. Look for obvious signs such as breaks or bubbles on the surface, loose or corroded wire connections, and test the elements for continuity. Sometimes the element receptacle or the element ends can get burned out or loose, causing a poor connection or no connection. If this is happening, you should turn the power supply off, and remove the element to inspect the plugs and receptacle. If you see burn marks or corrosion, it's time to replace the bad part. You can also check the terminal ends by lifting them out and looking to see if they got bent and have lost connection. Straighten the ends and re-seat the element if it had bent ends.

Question 3: Why is the oven too hot on the outside to touch?

Answer 3: It's normal for ovens to get pretty warm on the outside during use. Sometimes the front door can get too hot to touch. If the door seal is faulty, heat can escape from the oven and cause excessive overheating. Replace the door seal, or call a professional appliance repair person.
Many ovens have a door lock that will prevent you from opening the oven during the self-cleaning cycle. Sometimes you have to actually flip the lock into place to activate the self-cleaning cycle. During self-cleaning, the air inside is super-heated from 750F - 1,000F in order to burn off any food particles or greases in the oven. If you open the oven door during this time, you can get burned very seriously.

Question 4: Why does my oven smoke so much when I broil foods?

Answer 4: It is possible that your oven has accumulated a buildup of grease that is now burning off. Another reason could be that the broiler pan is upside down and enabling the grease drippings to burn up from the broiler. You should also make sure to give the meat enough clearance from the flames.

Question 5: Is it normal for my range to make a noise when I use the oven?

Answer 5: As metal heats, it expands; as it cools, it contracts. It is normal to hear sounds like pings or dings as this occurs.

For more Appliance repair help, please visit the repair center at www.apwagner.com

Question 1: Why won't my air conditioner turn on?

Answer 1: First, you want to make sure that you have power at the plug that you are using for your air conditioner. You can test it with a voltage meter or simply plug something else into the same outlet (if the receptacle is 220V, you will need to measure it with a voltage meter). If it works, you know you have power to the air conditioner. If it doesn't work, you'll need to check your fuse panel for any blown fuses or your circuit breaker box for any tripped circuit breakers.
If you have power, it could be one of several problems that are keeping it from running. Many times an air conditioner can't start the compressor if the amperage or voltage is too low. This can happen, especially if you run the unit from an extension cord or have something else that draws a lot of power on the same line. The compressor initially takes a lot of power to start.
If you hear any odd noises coming from the unit, it could be the compressor trying to start, but unable to do so. Another part that causes odd noises is the overload/relay. This causes a click-buzz-click sound near the compressor. This is the overload/relay working, and it protects the compressor from damage by cutting power to it if there's a problem. If you hear this, the compressor has power, and it means something is wrong with the compressor. If the compressor is the cause of the problem, you'll need to contact a professional appliance repair person.
Also, any of the control components could be the cause of your problem. These include the control board, the selector switch, and thermostat. The control board controls the overall operation of an air conditioner, and if it is bad, it may prevent the unit from operating. The selector switch is used to adjust the settings that you want on your air conditioner. The thermostat controls the temperature. In addition, the wiring between any of these components could be to blame.
Sometimes the plug for the unit gets burned on the end that goes into the outlet, or the outlet itself gets scorched. This will reduce the contact points and may not allow any or enough power through to operate the unit. If this is the case, you need to replace the plug and outlet as it is also a fire hazard. You may want to call a professional electrician for this job.

Question 2: Why does the air conditioner run constantly?

Answer 2: If your air conditioner is running constantly, it may be that it's too small for the room you're trying to cool. Another reason may be that it is not cooling properly. Check the filter, coils for dirt buildup, and the air temperature leaving the unit. The cool air coming from the unit should be at least 15F cooler than the air going into it.
Make sure that you don't have windows open, allowing warm air back into the area that you're trying to cool. There may also be a control for a vent or louvre that allows outside air in. This vent being open will let warmer outside air in, and make the unit work harder to maintain a cool temperature. An open vent is also bad for allergy sufferers as it lets more pollens into the room. You also do not want to cover the front of the unit with any drapes or curtains as this will inhibit the airflow from the unit into the room.
Make sure there isn't any outside air leaking into the room by using sash sealer strips between the window and the unit. These strips work by filling in any gaps between the unit and the window frame and prevent cold air from leaking out of the room, and prevent warm air from entering the room.

Question 3: Why does the air smell bad?

Answer 3: Keep the unit clean of any buildups. The constant warming and cooling on these machines can build up moisture quickly. If it doesn't evaporate properly, the stagnant water can lead to fungi, molds, and mildews, as well as diseases like Legionnaire's disease growing in your unit. Don't forget to change the filter periodically.

Question 4: Why isn't there any cold air even though the fan is running?

Answer 4: Check the thermostat settings. Listen for compressor noise. Your fan can still work even if the compressor won't start. Make sure the coils are clean and dust-free. If everything seems ok, perhaps the refrigerant level is low. As it is a sealed system, you can void the warranty by attempting repairs on it. You ought to call a professional appliance repair person.

Question 5: Why is the air conditioner leaking water?

Answer 5: Condensation of water on the evaporator coils in the front of an air conditioner is normal. This water collects in a pan where it is evaporated. On a really humid day, you may notice some is dripping off the unit. A properly installed unit will be tipped slightly back to allow any excess water to drip out the back.

For more appliance questions, and for all your appliance parts needs, visit AP Wagner's Repair Center

Question 1 : Why does my dryer do nothing when I turn it on?

Answer 1: Plug something else into the same outlet. If it works, you know you have power to the dryer. If it doesn't work, you'll need to check for any blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers. Electric dryers should have the wiring checked at the terminal block to make sure that the connection is good, or to verify that the connection is burnt out.
If the power is there, you will want to check the door switch, thermal fuse, thermostats, and start switch to see if one of these is faulty. Make sure that the control settings are appropriate, and that any buttons are fully depressed. Make sure that the start button has been fully pushed down or turned far enough to activate the dryer.
The door or lid switch performs two main functions. When the dryer door is open, it keeps the dryer from starting, and turns on the light. If the door switch is faulty, your dryer won't work, and you'll need to replace the switch. The door switch is located inside of your dryer's main housing right by the door frame. You'll probably need to access this switch through the top or front of your dryer.
There may also be a problem with the start switch. Test and replace if it is faulty.
Many dryers use what's called a thermal fuse. This is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. This fuse is about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. Your dryer will not operate if this fuse is defective. You can test this fuse, and if faulty, replace it.
Most fuses have a thin wire that conducts electricity. When fuses blow, it means the wire is broken, they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. When this happens to the thermal fuse, your dryer either doesn't work at all, or it stops heating. Give your vent and heating system a visual check before you replace this fuse.
You will also want to test each thermostat to determine if any one is faulty. A bad thermostat may prevent your dryer from working at all.

Question 2: Why is there no heat in my dryer?

Answer 2: If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the front of the dryer. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.

Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas. The heating element is a coil made from a nickel-chrome alloy, called nichrome. Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it. An electric dryer should have it's own separate power line.
When the burner is operating properly, the flame should be clean and blue.

If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.
If the ignitor doesn't glow, look for a white or yellowish discoloration, or for a break in the ignitor. If this is something visible, just replace the ignitor. If there are no obvious signs of a break or burnt area, test it for continuity. If the ignitor doesn't have this type of problem, you'll need to determine if the problem is in the control area, or somewhere else within the burner system. Test for 110v getting to your burner assembly.
Here's a test you can perform: Unplug your dryer and then open up the burner inspection panel. Unplugging your burner assembly unit, you want to connect your jumpers for the Volt Ohm Meter to the dryer side of the assembly, not the burner side. Keeping your Ohm meter wires away from the drum area, set the timer to on, set the controls to high heat, and then plug the dryer back in. If there is 110v in this area, you can assume the thermostats in this area are good. If not, a timer, motor centrifugal switch, or other thermostat may be your culprit.

To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.

You should visually inspect the wiring connections to the dryer from the house regularly. If you're opening the dryer case, give the wiring inside a good visual check as well. Lastly, never use an extension cord to operate this appliance. An electric dryer draws a lot of power, and the shorter the wiring to it, the better. The power cord connects to a terminal block in the back of an electric dryer. Sometimes this terminal can get burned out or ground to the dryer. Make sure the power is turned off, and look for scorching, burned, or broken connections. For electric dryers, one broken connection might allow the dryer drum and timer to operate, but there would be no heat.

Question 3: Why doesn't my dryer drum tumble?

Answer 3: There are a few things that will keep the drum from tumbling, the belt being broken or slipping badly, the motor being seized, or worn support parts.
Dryers have a belt that turns the drum. If the belt is worn or broken, it can't move the drum. Just replace the belt, and while you're doing that, you may want to check the idler pulley. Wear on the idler pulley can cause the belt to break. Worn out glides and rollers can also create extra stress on the belt by making the drum harder to turn. If the drum is harder to turn, the extra stress could have broken the belt.
Normally, you can hear the motor running, especially if it's the belt or idler pulley that's the problem. If you don't hear the motor, and you hear a buzzing sound instead, the motor may be seized and you'll probably need to replace the motor or motor start capacitor. Remove the belt, then check for any blockages in the blower fan housing and try to turn the shaft on the motor by hand.
If it's too hard or impossible to turn the motor shaft, and the blower fan housing has no obstructions; odds are that you need to replace the motor.
If the motor turns easily, run it for a few seconds. If it runs good without the belt, you may have a problem with the idler pulley or the drum rollers. Try rotating the drum by hand. If it's hard to move, fix any problem with the idler pulley, glides, or drum rollers, reassemble the dryer, and test it again.

Question 4: Why is my dryer so noisy?

Answer 4: There are several things that can cause a dryer to be noisy. There are a lot of moving parts in a dryer that can cause noises to occur when they get worn. Several parts support the drum, and may make noise or vibrations when worn out. Many times a dryer will squeak just a little bit as it first starts. This should go away in just a few seconds. Make sure nothing is loose inside the drum. Remove the lint trap and look below the lint trap holder for any loose items that may have slipped through the cracks.
The blower wheel is always moving and lint is constantly going by it. If it's noisy, it may have gotten clogged with lint, or it may be worn and need to be replaced. Clean out the area around the blower. If it's still noisy, replace it.

Many dryers use a center spindle to support the clothes drum. This spindle may be a ball-and-socket support, or it may be a shaft inside a sleeve. When these component bearings get worn out, they may make a squealing or rubbing sound. Replace this bearing when it gets worn out. Many dryers also use plastic glides in the front end of the clothes drum. When these glides are worn out, you may hear a lot of noise. If the glides are worn, replace them as a set.
Some dryers use rollers to support the clothes drum. If these rollers or wheels are worn out, they can be extremely noisy. You ought to replace the whole set at the same time. A belt that has been damaged or frayed may make a thumping or slapping sound as the drum turns.
The gas valve solenoid will make a buzz type of sound as it opens. The valve itself will give a little click as it starts the heat cycle, when ignition begins, and when the burner is turning off. The burner flame itself makes kind of a low-pitched roaring wind sound.

Question 5: Why are my clothes wrinkled?

Answer 5: The biggest cause of wrinkles is leaving the clothes in the dryer after they're done tumbling. Other reasons for wrinkling include: improper sorting of the laundry, no fabric softener, too many or too few items to tumble properly, improper wash and dry cycles, wrong water level, and using water that's too hot for the material.
To prevent and get rid of wrinkles you can: remove clothes promptly from the dryer and either hang or fold them, dry only one load at a time, don't pack the dryer too full, do not dry heavy items with light items, use the permanent press cycle to give clothes a cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkling, and lastly, you can always rewash and dry the clothes properly.

For more Appliance repair help, and all your appliance part needs, visit AP Wagner's website

Question 1: Why won't the dehumidifier turn on?

Answer 1: Plug something else into the same outlet. If it works, you know you have power to the Dehumidifier. If it doesn't work, you'll need to check for any blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers. If you have power, it could be one of several problems that are keeping it from running.
Another reason that the dehumidifier won't turn on may be that the humidity level you set your unit for has been reached. If you need or desire a lower level of humidity, adjust the humidistat to reflect this.
Many dehumidifiers have a safety device which senses when the reservoir is full. The tank either presses against a switch, or there may be a sensor connected to the tank that triggers a switch when the tank is full. This is to prevent any water damage to your property. Always remember water and electricity do not mix well. Empty the tank. This should solve the problem if the tank was full. If you empty it, and the unit still doesn't run, look around the tank to see if there's a switch or other device that controls the dehumidifier. Look for a bucket switch. You may be able to throw a switch by hand.

Question 2: Why doesn't the reservoir fill?

Answer 2: There is a humidity selector on most models. The first thing to check is the setting of this control. If it is set too high, the humidity level may have been achieved and the dehumidifier doesn't need to run. Set it to a lower humidity level and it should start working.
If the unit is running regularly, but the reservoir remains empty, then there is probably a problem with the refrigeration system of the dehumidifier. Get all the dust and dirt out of the inside of the dehumidifier and if there is a filter make sure that it is clean. If it is still not working, contact a professional appliance repair person for help.

Question 3: Why is the reservoir filling so fast?

Answer 3: If you don't like emptying the reservoir manually, there are drain hose attachments for most models. If the reservoir is filling too fast, it usually means that there is a lot of water in the air. If this continues to happen, there is a source of moisture near the dehumidifier. Finding and controlling the source will reduce the expense of continually running the dehumidifier.

Question 4: Why are the evaporator coils freezing up?

Answer 4: A well running dehumidifier will have really cold evaporator coils on the back of the machine. When moist air is drawn across these coils, the moisture condenses. Occasionally, the air over the coils is too cold, and the condensing water can freeze. Turn off the unit for a little while and let everything thaw out. Some temporary frosting can occur during the first 10 to 15 minutes of operation. If frost or ice remains, the room temperature may be too low for your model. Many non-basement models can not operate below 65 F. They become too efficient and cause the evaporator to freeze up. Some basement models operate well down to 38 F by using a de-icing mechanism.

Question 5: Why does the dehumidifier run so much?

Answer 5: There are several reasons why the unit may appear to run too much. The humidistat may be set to the highest setting. If that's the case, the unit will not stop running unless the full bucket sensor shuts it off or you lower the setting. Open doors or windows near the dehumidifier may keep the humidity level too high for the unit to turn off. Also, the grill on the front of the unit may be blocked with dust and does not allow for proper airflow. The coils on back may be dirty and will not transfer heat or cool the air sufficiently. Lastly, the area may just be too large for the unit to operate efficiently.

For more appliance repair help, and for all your appliance part needs, visit AP Wagner

Question 1: Why doesn't my dishwasher work at all?

Answer 1: If your dishwasher doesn't work at all, check the power supply, door latch switch, selector switch and timer, and the wiring. If your model has a child lock-out feature, verify that the feature is set to the Off position. Make sure cycle has ended. Make sure the Delay Start option is not set for a delayed start.
If you can, verify that you have power at the dishwasher. This might be difficult because many dishwashers are wired directly into the household wiring under the counter. Usually only the portable dishwashers get plugged into a wall outlet. You will also want to check your fuse box or circuit breaker panel for a blown fuse or tripped breaker.
The door latch switch is a safety switch that prevents the dishwasher from working if it is defective. When working properly, the switch doesn't allow power through it when the plunger is out, and it allows power when the plunger is in. If the plunger is broken or if the internal parts are not working properly, power is stopped at the switch and it needs to be replaced.
The timer and the selector switch are other possibilities. If one of these is defective, your dishwasher won't operate normally, and the part will need to be replaced.
Running the dishwasher regularly may help prevent any seals from drying out and sticking. This includes the motor seals.
Visually inspect the wiring to see if any looks disconnected or burned. Repair or replace as necessary.

Question 2: Why aren't my dishes dry when the dishwasher finishes?

Answer 2: If you have problems with your dishes still being wet when at the end of the dry cycle, check to see if the rinse aid dispenser needs filling, check to see how well the dishes are loaded, and make sure a large item doesn't block smaller items.
Did you use the proper amount of detergent? Too little or too much detergent can have an affect on how well dishes dry. Have you selected the heated drying option? A rinse aid can help your dishes to dry better also. Is the rinse aid dispenser empty?
The next things to check are the filters, drain valve, drying fan, heating element, and the thermostat. Sometimes a clogged filter will prevent all the water from being able to exit the unit. Clean or replace clogged filters. A faulty drain valve that leaves too much water in the cabinet can be to blame. Is there too much standing water left in the unit after the dry cycle is complete? Check for blockages at this valve.
Some dishwashers have a fan that circulates the cabinet air to help dry the dishes. If the fan is not working properly, you need to replace it. At the bottom of the dishwasher is a heating element that warms the air in the dishwasher. The increased temperature speeds up the evaporation process and decreases the drying time. Visually inspect the element and look for any burned or broken areas on it, and if it's burned out or if you can't measure continuity with it removed, it will need to be replaced.
There is also a thermostat that measures the water temperature and drying temperature. If the thermostat is faulty, the cycles may not complete properly. If it's faulty, you need to replace it. You may want to unload the dishes in the bottom rack first so that any water left pooled on dishes in the top rack won't spill onto the bottom rack's dishes.

Question 3: Why is there no water entering the dishwasher?

Answer 3: If you have no water entering your dishwasher, check the door latch, the household water supply to the dishwasher, the float switch or overfill protector, and the water-inlet valve. Many dishwashers have a timed fill rather than a metered fill. Some turn-to-start models may take several minutes before they start filling.
To measure the level of the water in the tub of the dishwasher, there is a plastic float near the bottom of the dishwasher that activates a switch once the water has lifted it to a certain level. If the switch is not working properly it could prevent water from entering the dishwasher. Additionally, if the float gets stuck, the switch will be activated and keep the inlet valve from allowing water into the dishwasher. Make sure that the float is moving freely up and down. If the float or the switch are not working properly, they need to be replaced.
All of the water enters the dishwasher through the water-inlet valve. If the water-inlet valve does not close, you can disconnect the power to either the valve or the dishwasher, and the flow of water should stop. If there is any debris or hard water deposits keeping it open, you will need to turn off the water supply to the dishwasher and replace the valve.

Question 4: Why is my dishwasher making noise?

Answer 4: If your dishwasher is getting loud or making a weird noise, you should check the heater fan, motor, water-inlet valve, and pump. Sometimes the bearings in the heater fan may get worn out or rust. If this happens, it may become very noisy, either grinding on the bearings, or scraping against the rust. If this happens you need to replace the fan motor. Sometimes, a fan blade may come loose, and you need to replace it.
Sometimes it's the motor that makes the noise you hear. The motor has bearings in it which may become worn or get rusty. When the bearings get worn, they allow the shaft to wobble which can get quite loud. If there is a spin seal leak, water may get inside the motor, washing the bearing grease away. If the spin seal is leaking, you'll notice water leaking from under the dishwasher. There is also a disc attached to the top of the motor called a slinger. It sometimes breaks off and spins around the motor's shaft while it turns, causing some noises. You will need to replace the motor if the bearings are bad. You also need to replace the motor if the slinger is broken as well.
Newer dishwashers may make a squealing or rattling noise on the first run. This is because it has not had any water in it yet, and the motor seals are dry. You may hear this in a unit that hasn't been run in a week or more as well. You should operate the dishwasher regularly to keep the sump water from getting smelly, and to keep the seals lubricated. You can add a quart of water to the sump before running it.
Rattling noises may be produced by dishes rattling inside the dishwasher due to the water pressure from the sprayer arms on the dishes. To determine if the rattling is a loading issue, run the unit empty. If the sound is persistent, it may be that there is debris in the pump.
Dishwasher water-inlet valves are noted to make a hum that lasts about 60-90 seconds several times during a washing cycle. This hum is a different hum than the sound of the motor running.
A rhythmic knocking or thumping sound may be caused the sprayer arms hitting something as they go around and around. Rearrange the dishes and resume the wash.
A clunking or clanking may be heard when the detergent cup opens; while a clicking sound may be produced by the timer or electronic control panel.
A solenoid makes a snap sound when it opens. This happens about six times during each load.
Pipes rattling or banging may be caused by a water hammer effect. Water hammer sounds are caused by a valve closing in the system, and yet the water in the pipe is still flowing because of its kinetic energy. The sound is caused by the water slamming into the closed section of pipe. A plumber can install an anti-hammer device.
Small objects can sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this occurs, you'll need to open the pump and then remove the item that is making the noise or replace the pump. The dishwasher pump is usually mounted directly to the motor and runs off the motor as well. The pump is also attached to the bottom of your dishwasher.

Question 5: Why doesn't the detergent cup open?

Answer 5: If the detergent cup doesn't open, check the detergent cup, the bi-metal switch or wax motor, and the timer. Make sure that no dishes are blocking it from opening.
The cup that holds the detergents can get caked and gooped up with old detergent. You should try to clean away any old detergent. If you can't clean the detergent away, you should replace the cup.
The bi-metal switch is activated by the timer and is an electrically operated device that bends when electricity is applied to it. It uses two different metals that are bonded together. As they warm up, they expand at different rates causing the metal to bend. The degree of bending can be set with a high degree of precision. Many devices use the bi-metal switch. A lot of newer dishwashers use a wax motor instead of the bi-metal switch. The wax motor has a wax block that gets heated up when the timer sends electricity to it. The wax expands as it gets heated up, and it pushes a plunger that opens the detergent door. Depending on how your dishwasher is wired, the switch may be wired through the motor circuitry or through the heating element. If the heating element is broken, there will be no electricity to properly activate the switch or heat the wax block in the wax motor to open the cup. If the motor doesn't let enough electricity through its circuit, the bi-metal switch won't operate properly, or the wax motor wax block won't get heated up to expand and push the plunger.
On many dishwashers, an actuator arm links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the correct time of the cycle, it activates a lever that opens the cup. If this link is broken or in any other respect faulty, the cup will stay closed, and won't let the detergent into the dishwasher. Check this linkage and either fix or replace it.

For more Appliance questions, and for all your appliance part needs, visit www.apwagner.com

Question 1: Why doesn't the freezer work at all?

Answer 1: Are you sure that the freezer is getting power? If you can't tell if anything is on at all, plug something else into the same outlet, such as a small lamp or hair dryer. If you have power, it's time to troubleshoot. If you don't have power, check the fuse or circuit breaker. If you do have power, does the interior light work, or do you hear a fan turning inside? You can try setting the thermostat to a colder setting. Does the compressor kick in? If that doesn't work, you can begin checking the same items that would cause the freezer to freeze poorly.

Question 2: Why doesn't my freezer freeze?

Answer 2: The first thing to do is to set the thermostat to a colder setting. If that doesn't work, you can begin checking the defrost timer. Test this by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8's of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.
To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If this jumping gets power to the compressor, the cold control needs to be replaced.
If there is a break in the wiring, your freezer will not work. Testing wiring is a long, tedious process. You need to check each wire with a meter to see if there is continuity. If there is, the wire is fine.
See if the compressor motor is running. The compressor is at the back of the freezer near the bottom. If it's humming, or making a steady noise, and your freezer is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. If it is running, but your freezer is still not cooling at all, there may be a problem with the condenser or evaporator coils.

Sometimes you can hear a click-buzz-click sound coming from the compressor. This is the relay/overload at work. If you hear this, power is getting to the compressor. If you do, something is wrong with either the compressor or the compressor starting components. If you have a newer model with solid-state starting components, you may not hear anything at all.

If there is power to the starting components, you may be able to test each part and replace any bad parts. There is also a 3-in-1 unit that may work on your model which replaces all the components in one unit. If the compressor still won't start, you have a bad compressor and need to replace it. If it does start, wire the 3-in-1 part in permanently. Make sure the one you buy is rated for the horsepower of your appliance. We sell these in our parts finder area.
Sometimes the evaporator coils get frozen over and air can't pass over them. This can result in your freezer not freezing properly. You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and turn it back on to see if it begins to work properly. These coils can get dirty, and they will not transfer heat or cold very well.

Question 3: Why is there a lot of frost built up inside the freezer?

Answer 3: A frost build-up inside the freezer usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately.
Self-defrost freezers are supposed to self-defrost themselves. Every 6-12 hours they turn off the compressor for a few minutes. A defrost heater then turns on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath. Unfortunately, though, when a component fails, too much frost can build up on the evaporator coils. With no air flow over the coils, cooling in the freezer compartment becomes almost non-existent.
You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and turn it back on to see if it begins to work properly. If your freezer now works the way it's supposed to, test the three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost timer.
You can visually inspect some defrost heaters to see if there is a break. If it looks physically broken, then it needs to be replaced. Otherwise, check the defrost heater for continuity.
The defrost thermostat, which is just a bi-metal switch, lets current pass through at factory set temperatures. It also prevents current from passing through at the temperatures set by the factory. The set temperatures for the defrost thermostat vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
You can test the defrost timer by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise a 1/4 to 3/8's of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.
If, after testing these components, it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

Question 4: Why does the freezer keep running?

Answer 4: Your thermostat controls whether the compressor is running or not. When the thermostat senses the internal temperature is lower than the setting, it turns off. If the thermostat won't cycle off, the thermostat may be bad and you will have to replace it. You may also have the temperature set too high in the freezer. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you may have had it set too high. With the help of a freezer thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn't help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.
If your thermostat is working properly, there's a chance that you have low levels of refrigerant in the sealed system. If this is where the symptoms lead you, you need to contact a professional appliance repair person. Only an EPA certified technician can legally work on a sealed system. If you attempt to do work on this system, you will void the warranty.
If this is a new refrigerator/freezer, it will run for a long time, almost constantly, before it gets cooled enough to stabilize the interior temperature. Allow up to 24 hours for it to stabilize.
Another common cause is a leaky gasket. Try putting a dollar bill between the gasket and the frame of the freezer as you close the door. If the dollar comes out without resistance, then you need a new door gasket.
When installing a refrigerator or freezer door gasket, you should allow the gasket to adjust to room temperature before removing it from the carton. When carrying or handling the gasket, you want to carry it by the corners. This will help to prevent breakage of the flexible magnet. Should the magnet be found to be broken, it will NOT impair its effectiveness. If the gasket is deformed or twisted from long storage, you can heat the deformed section with an electric heater, hair dryer, or a 150-300 watt light bulb. Holding the heat source about 1 inch to 3 or 4 inches from the gasket, move the heat source back and forth to maintain even warming. Apply heat until gasket has resumed its original shape. This can also correct an already installed, deformed gasket. Make sure you use caution so as not to damage the inner door panel.
Make sure that the freezer has enough air clearance on all sides. There is a condenser coil on the back or under the back near the compressor that needs to radiate heat away from itself. If it can't radiate enough heat, it will cool poorly and will run for longer periods of time.
Verify that the door light switch is working properly. Push the switch with your finger to verify the light is turning off. If the light stays on, it will actually warn the interior of the freezer. Fix or replace the switch if it is faulty.
Modern freezers start and stop very frequently to maintain an even temperature. They may run for a long time initially. This is especially true if you have just put a lot of warm food in the freezer, or if it is very hot and humid. It can take several hours to get back to the cool temperature you have it set for after putting a large amount of food in it.

Question 5: Why do my frozen meats look burned?

Answer 5: Simply put, freezer burn is when the food in your freezer gets dehydrated from the freezer unit sucking out the moisture from the food. This is because the food wasn't wrapped tightly enough to prevent evaporation of the moisture in whatever you're freezing. It's still okay to eat, but it probably tastes yucky. The best way to prevent freezer burn is to seal food very well in sealed storage bags before freezing.

For more Appliance repair help, and for all your appliance part needs, visit www.apwagner.com

Question 1: Why doesn't my disposal work when I turn it on?

Answer 1: Is there power to the disposal? If you can test this, do that first. Check your fuse-box or circuit breakers. If you have power, look on the bottom of the disposer unit. There's a small red button on most disposers, located underneath the unit or near the bottom called the reset button. If this button is popped out, the disposal motor overload has gotten too hot. This usually only occurs if there is a jam and you leave it turned on too long. Clear the jam, described below, and reset the overload safety by pressing in the red button. You may hear a little clicking sound as you push the reset button, that's normal. If it pops again when you turn the disposal on, the disposal is probably jammed. If you have power to the motor, it still won't turn, and there's no sound at all from it, your motor is probably worn out. Your best bet is to just replace the disposal.

Question 2: Why does my garbage disposal jam?

Answer 2: Your disposal can jam if certain foods or other objects are introduced. Things like corn husks, avocado leaves, or other high in fiber vegetable matter, bones, utensils, glass, etc. are examples of what can jam the disposal. Many garbage disposals have a small socket hole in the bottom center, underneath the motor. This allows you to insert a ¼" Allen wrench into it and lets you turn the masher plate back and forth inside the disposal. This will usually free any jams.

NEVER PUT YOUR HAND IN THE DISPOSAL! Always use a pliers or tongs! Many injuries including hand and finger amputations are caused by disposals every year.

Some disposals don't have the Allen wrench socket. Instead, make sure that the power is off to the unit from the fuse box or circuit breaker panel. You can then use the handle of a broom, plunger, or mop inserted through the top opening of the disposal, and try to wiggle the masher plate back and forth to free any jams. Once you feel the masher plate moving again, you can remove the handle that you put in the disposal and put the power back on.
You want to check the red reset button located near the bottom of the disposal. If it has popped, just push it back in and try the unit again. If you are able to turn the masher plate back and forth and have not been able to free up the jam, you may have to contact a professional appliance repair person, or replace the unit itself.

Question 3: Why does my disposal leak?

Answer 3: Sometimes you'll experience a leak somewhere in the disposal system. Check the drain connections first. If the leak is coming from the drain pipe, you can replace the rubber gasket. If it is a new installation, check the ring near the sink flange and make sure that it is tight. Some of the seals between the sink and the disposal are available, but if the leak is coming from the body of the disposal, you're going to have to replace the garbage disposal.

Question 4: Why does my disposal make more noise than it used to?

Answer 4: Sometimes a piece of metal, glass, bone, or other object will enter the disposal and cause quite a racket when you turn on the unit. If it doesn't jam the unit, it may work its own way through the drain system.
Other reasons for more noise than usual include: loose mounting screws, worn bearings, broken flyweights, or the lugs or blades are worn out. Tighten the mounting screws if they have become loose.
Because the disposal is located directly underneath the sink drain, after time, the vibrations could cause the screws to become loose, or the seals may leak water into the motor and bearings. The water will wash the bearing grease away and lead to a faster than normal wear of the bearings.
The flyweights can get broken by metal objects falling in the disposal while it is running. The lugs or blades do wear over time and work less and less efficiently. A few models allow for the replacement of the shredder ring, but usually, it is time to replace your old disposal with a new disposal.

Question 5: How do I fix a clog caused by my disposal?

Answer 5: If your drain has gotten clogged because of your disposal, make sure to turn the power off at the main disconnect. Next, you will want to disassemble the trap and use a drain snake to clear the clog. Re-assemble the trap and turn the water on to verify that the clog is indeed gone, and that water is flowing properly through the disposal and drain line.

For more Appliance repair help, and for all your appliance part needs, visit AP Wagner