Arbroath Smokies

Arbroath smokies originated not in the town of Arbroath, but in the tiny former fishing village of Auchmithie, about 3 miles north. The fisherwomen would place the fish, tied in pairs, on sticks over half whisky barrels that had fires underneath. The smoke was trapped by wet hessian sacking placed over the fire. As the fisher folk of Auchmithie moved to Arbroath for better living conditions and work, they took their smoking skills with them, setting up smokehouses in the town that are still run by their descendants today.

In 2004, Arbroath Smokies were awarded Protected Geographical Indication by the European Commission. This means that only haddock smoked in the traditional manner, and within 8 kilometres of Arbroath, can be called Arbroath Smokies.

I remember watching a travel show once, where the presenter talked about Arbroath smokies with an air of disdain, not believing that the the unopened fish he held gingerly up to the camera had any merit as a food delicacy. He didn't know what he was missing. It may not look pretty on the outside, but split open a smokie and you get succulent, thick white flesh with a pronounced, but not overpowering smoky aroma and taste. It's mouth-wateringly delicious.

An Arbroath smokie cooks during the smoking process, so can be eaten just as it comes. The fish is almost closed, so simply split it open and remove the backbone in the middle (it comes out easily). If you want it hot, heat gently under a grill, or microwave, taking care not to overdo it. You want the flesh to remain juicy. You can if you wish remove the backbone before heating and slip a knob of butter inside to melt as the fish heats. Or heat, take out the backbone, add the butter and put back under the grill for a few more minutes.

The flesh of a smokie can be used in a variety of ways. Cold, it can be tossed into a salad or made into a sandwich with mayonnaise. Mash with cream cheese and a pinch of cayenne for a quick pate to spread on toast (add a little cream if the mix is too thick). I like a smokie straight out of the skin, eating the moist fish without any adornment.

For hot dishes, Arbroath smokie flesh is delicious put into a white or cheese sauce and served inside pancakes. Smokies go well with rice; try it in kedgeree. It's lovely in soup - soften a bit of onion, add some potatoes and fish stock, and when the potatoes are tender, add flaked smokie flesh. Blend and add milk or cream.

Most recipes that use flaked smoked fish as an ingredient can use Arbroath smokies instead - you may find that the dishes have a more subtle flavour as a result.

Although not dedicated specifically to Arbroath smokies, you'll find a few recipes using them, in this selection of books by Scottish cooks.

A Cook's Tour of Scotland: From Barra to Brora in 120 Recipes

Nick Nairn Cook School Cookbook

Sue Lawrence's Scottish Kitchen: Over 100 Modern Recipes Using Traditional Ingredients