Guinea Pig

So they are not technically a puppy but who cares they are small, furry, cuddly and adorable! I have learned a lot since adopting my first and then second piggie. As usual the typical care info you are given at the store is sub standard so I am including some information that you may find helpful.

I adopted a pig who apparently is pregnant so I have been reading up on caring for a pregnant sow and wanted to share.

First of all find a guinea pig vet before the day of birth.

They are pregnant from 62 to 70 days. A change in diet is helpful. Switching her to alfalfa hay and doubling her vitamin C intake to prevent toxemia. First pregnancy pigs who are older than 6 months are at risk for complications.

Three weeks before birth you should be able to see the babies moving. 2 or 3 is normal but on rare occasions up to 8!! The birth normally happens in the day and lasts 20 minutes at most.

The mom pig doesn't make a nest so they need a clean and soft bedding. I only use Carefresh and that still seems to be widely popular. It's also safe to leave her cage mate in the cage with her but if you have the room, a quiet undisturbed birth would be better for your piggie.

Tess gave birth last Tuesday. She had four babies but the runt did not make it despite my best efforts to save it by hand feeding.

Here are the cuties:

Guinea pigs are social animals who prefer to live in small groups. If you keep two or more females together, they will become great friends. If you want two males, it's smart to choose two babies from the same litter. Since guinea pigs, like all rodents, multiply rapidly, keeping males and females together is not recommended.

As a rule of thumb, you'll need to provide a minimum of four square feet of cage space per guinea pig-but please try to get as large a cage as possible. You'll need a solid-bottom cage-no wire floors, please, as they can irritate your pets' feet. Plastic-bottom "tub cages" with wire tops also make great guinea pig homes. Never use a glass aquarium, due to the poor ventilation that it provides.

Always keep the cage indoors away from drafts and extreme temperatures, as guinea pigs are very susceptible to heatstroke. They'll prefer an environment kept at 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Line the bottom of the cage with aspen or hardwood shavings or some other form of safe bedding, such as grass hay. Do not use cedar or pine chips-the oils they contain can be dangerous to your pets. (P.S. Yes, you can train a guinea pig to use a litter box-but please note that this will require lots of time and patience!)

Guinea pigs love to hide when they play, so be sure to place cardboard tubes and/or empty coffee cans with smoothed edges in the enclosure for this purpose. Plastic pipes and flower pots are good, too, and bricks and rocks for climbing will be much appreciated. All guinea pigs need a cave for sleeping and resting, so please provide a medium-sized flower pot or covered sleeping box, readily available at pet supply stores.

Commercial guinea pig pellets should make up the bulk of your pet's diet. Feed your guinea pigs twice daily, in the morning and in the evening.

The ASPCA recommends offering small amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables to your guinea pigs every day. Try grapes, cucumbers, corn, peas, carrots and pears. Half a handful of veggies and a slice of fresh fruit per pig is plenty. Clean up any leftover fresh food before it spoils. You'll also need to make grass hay available to your pets at all times. It's great for the digestive system, and will also satisfy your pet's need to gnaw.

Unlike other animals, guinea pigs cannot manufacture Vitamin C, so you'll need to ensure that your pets get enough of this essential nutrient every day. A quarter of an orange will do, but you can also include some fruits and veggies that are high in C to their daily ration of fresh foods, such as kale, dandelion greens and strawberries.

Fresh, clean water should be available at all times. Change the water daily.

General Care
Remove soiled bedding, droppings and stale food from the cage daily. Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty bedding and scrubbing the bottom of the cage with warm water. Be sure everything's dry before adding fresh bedding.

Did you know that guinea pigs' teeth grow continuously, just like those of other rodents? That's why it is important that you provide yours with something to gnaw on at all times. Branches and twigs from untreated trees will work, as will any small piece of wood that hasn't been treated with chemicals.

It's crucial that you get your pets used to you-and used to being handled. Start by feeding them small treats. When they're comfortable with that, you can carefully pick up one pig at a time, one hand supporting the bottom, the other over the back.

Once you have hand-tamed your piggies, you should let them run around in a small room or enclosed area to get some additional exercise every day. You will need to carefully check the room for any openings from which the guinea pigs can escape, get lost and possibly end up hurt. These animals must be supervised when they are loose because they will chew on anything in their paths-including electrical wires.

Guinea pigs are very conscientious about grooming themselves, but brushing them on a regular basis will help keep their coat clean and remove any loose hairs. Long-haired guinea pigs should be brushed daily in order to prevent tangles and knots from forming.

If you think one of your guinea pigs is sick, don't delay-seek medical attention immediately. Common signs that something isn't right include sneezing, coughing, diarrhea and lethargy. Guinea pigs are also susceptible to external parasites such as mites and lice. If you think your pet is infested, head to the vet for treatment.