What Makes an Astor and Black Suit - Quality

Handpicked stitching refers to the small and unobtrusive stitching that runs along the lapel and edge of a jacket, and is one of the most beautiful features of a high-end garment. A sign of true handpicked stitching is its close proximity to the outer edge of the garment and its appearance of being slightly varied.

Reinforced Stitching
All Astor & Black garments have reinforced stitching on the under side of the jacket collar. Astor & Blacks fine tailors add these five layers of stitching to prevent the collar from ever rolling.

The Primary detail looked at when determining the quality of a garment is the full canvas lining, which comes standard on every Astor & Black suit, sport jacket, and coat.

In the tailoring of a suit, the inner lining is the most important element in giving shape and body to the garment. During the process of tailoring the inner lining, two methods are generally used. The first , and cheapest method, is referred to as "fused," and the other method, used by all high-end tailors, is "full canvas." In this method actual canvas cloth is cut to the required pattern and then hand-stitched into the fabric layers. A full canvas garment last up to 10 times longer. Breathes better, and allows more natural movement and drape because sewn layers can move independently of one another. All Astor & Black suits are tailored with the finest full-basted canvassing from Italy.

Bemberg linings, which are actually a type of rayon, are considered the finest in the world. These linings are more durable than silk and actually are more expensive in many cases. With its smooth, gentle interface on skin and fabrics, Bemberg has long been the preferred fiber for fine garment linings.

An Astor & Black trousers have a stiffer, thicker waistband that is re-enforced to prevent rolling of any kind. You will also find that the inside of the waist is rubberized to keep your shirt from un-tucking or moving around.

In the underarm section of every Astor & Black jacket garment you will find a sweat shield, which as its name implies, shields the suit from perspiration and odor.