Creating Realistic Geisha Makeup

Ranked #896 in Education, #21,475 overall

Overview

Too often, I see artists attempting to duplicate the look of the Geisha and missing the mark entirely. I do believe in creative license and experimenting with different looks! However, I think its obvious when we fall into cliches, lacking in cultural knowledge and creativity. The information that follows has been collected during my journey to understand how and why the traditional Geiko and Maiko of Japan adorned themselves in such a way. Knowledge is power!

(all images from wikimedia commons)

Are you guilty?

I think we've all done it at least once! A last minute Halloween costume maybe?

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Why write about the Geisha?

On more than one occasion I have been asked if I can do "Geisha Makeup." Usually the client is looking for the stereotypical Halloween or Hollywood makeup. They're expecting a white face with pursed black or red lips. Throwing the hair up into a bun and garnishing with chopsticks frequently follows.

Being a history nut isn't easy. Most people aren't interested in the cultural nuances that make a theme or concept whole, in my eyes. Even in the broader sense, details are easily over-looked. I was once on a set where the model was posing with a flute... incorrectly assembled. Yes, it does take a lot of self-control to not yell, "Unhand that abomination!"

What is a Geisha?

I hope that if you have made it this far you have taken a moment to ask yourself, "What is a Geisha, anyway?"
There are only a few websites out there that do the art justice and the rest seem to be duplicates, copy-and-pasted information.

Basically (and I mean seriously simplified), the Geisha is a woman trained in the traditional arts of Japan. She is not a prostitute, she is an entertainer, a dancer, a musician, etc.

In my quest to get a better understanding of the tradition, I found myself reading "Geisha, A Life" by Mineko Iwasaki. The 300 page autobiography of a real Geisha also includes pictures of real Geisha working and performing as well as closeups of their beautiful outfits and hairpins. I highly recommend it, especially over "Memoirs of a Geisha," to anyone who really wants to have a glimpse inside their world.

As much as I would love to go way off topic, l must remember, we are just talking makeup. :D

Geisha: A Life

Amazon Price: $2.42 (as of 05/28/2012)Buy Now

Extra Credit!

For further reading, check out "Ukiyo-e: 250 Years of Japanese Art" to get a better understanding of the roles and boundaries of the Courtesan and Geisha... and to oogle at the gorgeous full color plates. I'm geeking out.
The book is predominately images of wood block prints with a bit of history related text mixed in which really fleshed out the subject matter for me.

Ukiyo-E: 250 Years of Japanese Art

Amazon Price: $50.00 (as of 05/28/2012)Buy Now

Geisha Breakdown

Let's begin to breakdown the look of the Geisha. Her appearance is meant to accentuate that which Japanese culture found attractive, at the time. The nape of the neck, for example, was left un-painted. Her heavy wardrobe was not meant to play up her figure and her shoes made each footstep graceful. Yes, the lips were painted small (like a rosebud not a clown) and the teeth were blackened.

Ohaguro

Ohaguro- The Art of Teeth Blackening. Why? I can imagine a few reasons for doing this. First, go paint your face white and smile. You're teeth look nasty don't they? Enameling the teeth also gave them a longer life in an era without modern dentistry.

In this article we can see that teeth were painted black in other Asian countries like Vietnam. Their society saw it as a coming of age and as a way to protect the teeth.

I once read of a demonstration where the presenter, face whitened and teeth blackened, showed her face illuminated by candlelight to a group of students. In the presentation it became obvious why an artist would go to such makeup extremes. Especially considering the Geisha worked during the night before there were Electric light sources in Japan.

(Right: A Vietnamese woman with blackened teeth.)

Which Geisha is which?

How come the makeup in the images I've found looks a little different from Geisha to Geisha?

Well, it helps to know that Geisha is a term that you wouldn't normally use. You would want to be searching for images of Maiko or Geiko. There's definitely a hierarchy in the Geisha Houses and the makeup helps to differentiate. A Maiko is an apprenticed Geiko (Geisha). When she debuts as a Geiko, she will finally have her lips fully painted on. As her career progresses, her makeup will also evolve. Senior Geiko way wear their hair long instead of up and may even have slightly longer eyebrows. A Geiko over thirty may rarely be spotted wearing her heavy makeup, except for special occasions. Click to view face charts depicting different levels of Maiko and Geiko.

Watch a Geisha apply makeup

How about a really good demonstration and then a step-by-step for achieving a realistic Geisha look? Sounds like a plan.

*My educated guess is, based on the way in which she uses the red pigment around the eyes and the way she paints her lips, that the artist is a Senior Maiko.
Maiko or geisha putting on face make-up in Kyoto
by ayabaya | video info

4,755 ratings | 1,641,967 views
curated content from YouTube

Geisha Base

The artist begins by applying a wax substance to the face as a setter for the next step, which will be a white rice powder paste. Don't forget the neck!

Rice powder is mixed with water to get the proper application. In the past, lead-based whites were used.

When applying rice powder paste, she begins by defining the nape of the neck. Usually in a V or W shape, the video shows a W. Excess moisture is removed with a sponge. The small space between the white makeup base and the hairline is meant to give the illusion of a mask.

I think that I would try using a round cosmetic sponge (the kind sold next to the wedge shaped sponges) to smooth the makeup and remove moisture. The super fine texture would probably be better for smoothing out brush strokes. I've used my face painting sponges for this in the past which is pretty hit or miss.
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And the Details

In the video we see a touch of contouring around the bridge of the nose with a red-pigmented powder. Then the brows, which would traditionally be drawn in charcoal, are accentuated with a deep red eye pencil. Later, it appears she comes back to the brows with red powder and gently gives them more definition.

Red is added to the corner of the eyes and blended inwards. Then, the lash line is defined with modern liquid eyeliner.

Notice how the lips are drawn smaller but now clownish. Think more Clara Bow than court jester. ;)
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Important!

Important Tips

If you plan on going for a totally false brow, it may be wise to seal the natural brows and conceal them before applying the white base.

If you have a much darker skin tone, I would suggest "nuding out" the lips before painting them white. In other words, hit the lips with a bit of concealer first.

Geisha Makeup Links

At this point you should no longer be wandering around in the dark! I've got links galore for you, anyway.
Next time you are going Japanese, remember you read this.

P.S. Please...Please...Hair sticks, yes. Chopsticks, no.
Japanese Geisha-Maiko Makeup & Tools
More guidance and picking the perfect makeup and tools for nailing the look. Now that's dedication!
Immortal Geisha - Information About Japanese Geisha and Lifestyle
Immortal Geisha website is devoted to the lives, history, beauty and tradition of Japanese Geisha, Geiko and Maiko.
How could you not love this site? If nothing else, look at their FAQ for face charts and how to properly wear a kimono.
Welcome to Wodeford Hall
What did they look like in Japan during the Medieval era? Re-enacting Japanese in the SCA? Look no further.
Fuyou-hime on deviantART
This artist has stayed in Japan and taken numerous pictures of real Maiko and Geiko, not just on the street but during performances as well. Very cool stuff!

Further Reading

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Featured Lenses

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My First Purple Star

February 11, 2012

"Purple Stars are fairy dust. They're magic. They're surprises. They're trophies celebrating authentic, original, fantastic content on Squidoo. They're given out by our editors and community organizers, whenever they find a lens that makes them smile."

Thank you so much! I am so very flattered! Now I am more motivated than ever to keep publishing lenses and to reach Giant Squid status. :D

Lens of the Day

Feb 17th 2012

My first but, hopefully, not my last.

I am flattered beyond words. I have come to love the Squidoo community and I am most appreciative of this special recognition! If I have inspired one person, I am happy. To inspire so many leaves me truly speechless, Thank you!

Guestbook Comments

  • TTMall Mar 5, 2012 @ 4:23 pm | delete
    Very informative lens. Well done!
  • ElBat Mar 4, 2012 @ 10:58 am | delete
    I try to read anything that has to do with maiko's and geiko's. But I didn't know about the blackened teeth. Thank's for the great lens!
  • accfuller Feb 27, 2012 @ 2:45 pm | delete
    Very nice, very informative.
  • cceerpp Feb 24, 2012 @ 12:07 pm | delete
    Interesting
  • gonzalezdenise Feb 22, 2012 @ 3:36 pm | delete
    Very informative lens, I have learned alot about make-up.
  • webkangaroo Feb 21, 2012 @ 9:57 am | delete
    Really a cool lens -- never even thought of this as a topic! Great work, thanks --
  • davenjilli Feb 21, 2012 @ 8:49 am | delete
    So totally fascinating. I grew up in Japan not long after WWII ended, and actually got to see Geisha on occasion. The whole historical Japanese culture is so different from the West. You have captured the essence beautifully here.
  • elyria Feb 19, 2012 @ 7:33 pm | delete
    Very interesting and captivating! Congrats with purple star and lotd!
  • CrazyIM Feb 19, 2012 @ 12:19 am | delete
    The makeup is beautiful and amazing. Your lens brings back my memory in Japan. Thanks for sharing.
  • KittySmith Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:47 pm | delete
    Very entertaining and educated. Thank you/
  • CarlittoDunaway Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:48 pm | delete
    Great lens! But this makeup creeps me out....
  • DebMartin Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:38 pm | delete
    Truly amazing. Way too much work for this girl but I sure appreciate the attention to detail. Admirable. d
  • Deadicated Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:33 pm | delete
    Awesome Lens, thanks for sharing.
  • entertainmenteveryday Feb 18, 2012 @ 9:20 am | delete
    Geisha's are beautiful. What a wonderful lens to create an authentic look.
    Congratulations on lens of the day and your purple star - well deserved!
  • BasantSoni Feb 18, 2012 @ 8:09 am | delete
    First..... hearty congrats for the L OF D ...nice portfolio contents & enjoyed other misc. activities depicted in ur other lenses ...
    i generate Organic Art from only ingredient of our Mother Earth on Bark canvas of palm tree. No colors/artificial materials. Warm regards... .Basant
  • ScienceOfSales Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
    Great lens you have here!
  • ScienceOfSales Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
    Great lens you have here!
  • ScienceOfSales Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
    Great lens you have here!
  • Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:48 am | delete
    nice lens and also nice look
  • fugeecat Feb 18, 2012 @ 3:57 am | delete
    I never realized that they blackened their teeth. This was interesting to read.
  • EditorDave Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:56 am | delete
    Nice lens with fascinating information! I've been to Japan 5 times and have always been curious about the mysterious geisha -- the maiko and geiko. Congratulations on a Squidoo masterpiece!
  • grflgrfl Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:55 am | delete
    Beautiful illustrations/photos. Nice lens.
  • safereviews Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:45 am | delete
    Great lens! Congrats on LOTD... well deserved.
  • veryirie Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:25 am | delete
    Makeup application is artistry in itself. I feel pretty ignorant I never realized about the blackened teeth. Enjoyed reading your page very much and Congrats on the Purple Star. :)
  • bloomingrose Feb 18, 2012 @ 12:36 am | delete
    Lovely lens - congrats on the LOTD. I'll have to check out Geisha: A Life - I did love Memoirs of a Geisha, I want to read your suggestion as well.
  • jimbarnes Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:55 pm | delete
    fantastic lenses
  • SayGuddaycom Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:33 pm | delete
    Excellent lens, interesting topic and very enjoyable. Well done.
  • ItayasDesigns Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:30 pm | delete
    Fantastic article! I've always been fascinated by Geisha and now even more so. Congrats on the LOTD award! :)
  • LensbyLisa Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:29 pm | delete
    Congrats on LOTD!
  • esvoytko Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:37 pm | delete
    Congrats on the purple star! This is a great lens.
  • Lorrie45 Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:20 pm | delete
    Congrats on your lens of the Day! I am new. Gonna take me awhile.
  • musicaldreamer Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:18 pm | delete
    Really interesting!
  • BuddyBink Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:52 pm | delete
    Nice job. Very educational. Thank you for clearing up the misconception that Geisha's are prostitutes. A very interesting video to watch how the makeup is properly applied. Thanks
  • Tipi Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:19 pm | delete
    Congratulations on LotD! ~ This is a very informative lens about Geisha makeup.
  • aquarian_insight Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:19 pm | delete
    Wow! A truly amazing lens. I think the beauty and significance of the geisha is lost on most people; but you did a great job. Congratulations on LoTD.
  • asteroid Feb 17, 2012 @ 6:57 pm | delete
    I read somewhere that some girls are forced into becoming a Geisha by their family. And that their life is very tough. Do you know anything about it ?
  • SirKrispy23 Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:42 pm | delete
    nice lens!
  • designsbyharriet Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:36 pm | delete
    Fantastic. I am really impressed with the amount of work you did on this lens. I will remember it for next Halloween.
  • JoshK47 Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:01 pm | delete
    Great work on this guide! Keep up the awesome work, blessed by a SquidAngel - and congrats on LotD!
  • ---Chazz Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:59 pm | delete
    Fascinating lens and an excellent choice for lens of the day! Very informative and the links are well chosen. Blessed and featured on "Wing-ing it on Squidoo", my tribute to the best lenses I've found since donning my wings.
  • vividviolet Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:52 pm | delete
    congrats on the lens of the day! (great lens!)
  • awesomedealz4u Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:17 pm | delete
    Amazing!
  • AshAffiches Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:42 pm | delete
    fantastic lens on a lovely topic!
  • kathysart Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:35 pm | delete
    How gorgeous! I have always loved geisha's and thought they were the most elegant women I have ever seen. Lovely lens. Angel blessed.
  • LasgalenArts Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:58 pm | delete
    Thank you for this informative lens. I've learned a lot today. Congrats on that purple star.
  • jwcooney Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:41 pm | delete
    Great lens, I find many aspects of Japanese culture so interesting!
  • getmoreinfo Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:11 pm | delete
    This is just lovely and congrats on the purple star.
  • RinchenChodron Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:00 pm | delete
    Very interesting lens. I also write about Japanese culture. You seem to know a lot about makeup. Congratulations on your purple star - well earned.
  • MelonyVaughan Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:56 pm | delete
    I love the overall look, but you really end up appreciating the amount of work that goes into this kind of makeup. Great lens!
  • Steph_Tietjen Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:52 pm | delete
    This was totally interesting. Thank you Maybe you will take over the world.
    Congrats on your star and lens of the day!
  • sockii Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:32 pm | delete
    Many congrats on Lens of the Day!
  • shaheda Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:27 pm | delete
    Not into too much makeup,only kohl or kaajal on the lower eye inside and lipstick.But enjoyed watching the movie The memoirs of a Gheisha.Liked your lens very well arranged.Ihave three featured ones,read and leave a comment
  • malzeke Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:13 pm | delete
    This is a wonderful lens. The video was most interesting. The painting of the lips was surprising because she did not follow her natural lips but created a doll like upper and lower lip. Nice!
  • artbyrodriguez Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:06 pm | delete
    Very interesting and well written lens!
  • TheWhistler Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:56 am | delete
    Well done! Blessed!
  • juliavm Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:49 am | delete
    Very informative. Thanks for sharing.
  • kaazoom Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:35 am | delete
    Congratulations on being chosen as LOTD.
  • faye_durham Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:25 am | delete
    Great lens! Congrats on LOTD!
  • peachplanet Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:25 am | delete
    Congrats on purple star and LTD! nice lens. well deserved.
  • AkitaJitsu Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:13 am | delete
    Very interesting! Congrats on LOTD!
  • Mr_Ham Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:12 am | delete
    Nice lens. Deserves lens of the day.
  • rauspitz Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:01 am | delete
    Interesting lens. Congratulations on the LOTD!
  • Upon-Request Feb 17, 2012 @ 10:10 am | delete
    I never knew about the teeth blackening. Great lens! Congrats on LotD.
  • d-artist Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:07 am | delete
    Congratulations on LOTD! very informative and interesting lens...
  • agoofyidea Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:02 am | delete
    Congratulations on LOTD! It is an interesting tradition.
  • LooLooBird Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:53 am | delete
    Very interesting! I was mesmerized by the video...
  • lbrummer Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:38 am | delete
    Congrats on lens of the day.
  • TamaraKajari Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:38 am | delete
    I'm just reading "Memoirs of a Geisha" and I'm glad I saw this. Congrats on LOTD!
  • RCGraphicsDesign Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:36 am | delete
    How very interesting and great detail. Glad I came across you lens.
  • cinstress Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:35 am | delete
    nice lens of the day
  • rms Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:31 am | delete
    Congratulations, this lens was selected as LOTD today! You can read all about it here: http://hq.squidoo.com/lotd/creating-realistic-geisha-makeup/
  • top_10 Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:29 am | delete
    good job! awesome lens.
  • RazzbarryBreeze Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:51 am | delete
    What a great lens. I honestly never understood what a Geisha was until now. Thank you for sharing this.
  • intermarks Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:02 am | delete
    Very interesting lens that go into detail about Geisha Makeup, but I just can't relate up Geisha Makeup which is in Japan and teeth blackening in Vietnam, the two seem a totally different culture.
  • greenlungsofpoland Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:47 am | delete
    Super Lens well deserved purple star
  • RecipePublishing-ChickenRecipes Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:40 am | delete
    Fascinating lens
  • Black_Eagle_Martial_Arts Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:17 am | delete
    Good read, lots of bits I never knew here like the teeth blackening!
  • eilval Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:14 am | delete
    Lovely lens and so informative
  • tainlaulence Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:30 am | delete
    Japan's WuJi is ancient culture.
  • AraceliP Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:22 am | delete
    "First, go paint your face white and smile. You're teeth look nasty don't they?" That made me laugh so loud! Great lens, loved the video too! Next time you should cover their hair too. I saw a documentary once that showed it took hours for them to do their hair!
  • Natural_Skin_Care Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:06 am | delete
    Well, I certainly got an education.
  • parwatisingari Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:50 am | delete
    great,I have added the books to my reading list.
  • charlino Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:04 am | delete
    Wonderful source of information. Love the art of geisha.
  • desertdarlene Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:12 am | delete
    Great lens! I didn't know they painted their teeth black.
  • Ysis Jan 23, 2012 @ 4:31 pm | delete
    Very beautiful lens and very well documented. The world of gheishas looks fascinating and intriguing, but in reality was quite hard. I have read the "Autobiography of a gheisha" where the dark side of their lives is narrated.
    Thank you for liking my lens on the Greek shepherd's flute.
  • makeupbrush Jan 12, 2012 @ 10:58 am | delete
    Oprah has covered a story about a Caucasian woman working as a geisha in Japan one time, they interviewed her and gave an inside look about the life of a geisha. I found it very fascinating. I am always wondering about the details of how to do the makeup. Great info here!
  • JaguarJulie Dec 30, 2011 @ 1:39 pm | delete
    Ah, I've always loved the authentic geisha look ... and how the group KISS does theirs too.
  • sockii Dec 25, 2011 @ 7:23 pm | delete
    Great info - really fascinating details.
  • DesignZeal Dec 10, 2011 @ 4:16 pm | delete
    A fascinating subject and a well researched one. Every peek into the hidden and exquisite Willow World is so mesmerizing... :)

by

JZinoBodyArt

I travel the country as a professional body artist, painting in studios and at events. I'm studying makeup and special effects and I plan to take over... more »

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