Creating Realistic Geisha Makeup
Ranked #896 in Education, #21,475 overall
Overview
Too often, I see artists attempting to duplicate the look of the Geisha and missing the mark entirely. I do believe in creative license and experimenting with different looks! However, I think its obvious when we fall into cliches, lacking in cultural knowledge and creativity. The information that follows has been collected during my journey to understand how and why the traditional Geiko and Maiko of Japan adorned themselves in such a way. Knowledge is power!
(all images from wikimedia commons)
(all images from wikimedia commons)
Are you guilty?
I think we've all done it at least once! A last minute Halloween costume maybe?
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Why write about the Geisha?
On more than one occasion I have been asked if I can do "Geisha Makeup." Usually the client is looking for the stereotypical Halloween or Hollywood makeup. They're expecting a white face with pursed black or red lips. Throwing the hair up into a bun and garnishing with chopsticks frequently follows.
Being a history nut isn't easy. Most people aren't interested in the cultural nuances that make a theme or concept whole, in my eyes. Even in the broader sense, details are easily over-looked. I was once on a set where the model was posing with a flute... incorrectly assembled. Yes, it does take a lot of self-control to not yell, "Unhand that abomination!"
Being a history nut isn't easy. Most people aren't interested in the cultural nuances that make a theme or concept whole, in my eyes. Even in the broader sense, details are easily over-looked. I was once on a set where the model was posing with a flute... incorrectly assembled. Yes, it does take a lot of self-control to not yell, "Unhand that abomination!"
What is a Geisha?
I hope that if you have made it this far you have taken a moment to ask yourself, "What is a Geisha, anyway?"
There are only a few websites out there that do the art justice and the rest seem to be duplicates, copy-and-pasted information.
Basically (and I mean seriously simplified), the Geisha is a woman trained in the traditional arts of Japan. She is not a prostitute, she is an entertainer, a dancer, a musician, etc.
In my quest to get a better understanding of the tradition, I found myself reading "Geisha, A Life" by Mineko Iwasaki. The 300 page autobiography of a real Geisha also includes pictures of real Geisha working and performing as well as closeups of their beautiful outfits and hairpins. I highly recommend it, especially over "Memoirs of a Geisha," to anyone who really wants to have a glimpse inside their world.
As much as I would love to go way off topic, l must remember, we are just talking makeup. :D
There are only a few websites out there that do the art justice and the rest seem to be duplicates, copy-and-pasted information.
Basically (and I mean seriously simplified), the Geisha is a woman trained in the traditional arts of Japan. She is not a prostitute, she is an entertainer, a dancer, a musician, etc.
In my quest to get a better understanding of the tradition, I found myself reading "Geisha, A Life" by Mineko Iwasaki. The 300 page autobiography of a real Geisha also includes pictures of real Geisha working and performing as well as closeups of their beautiful outfits and hairpins. I highly recommend it, especially over "Memoirs of a Geisha," to anyone who really wants to have a glimpse inside their world.
As much as I would love to go way off topic, l must remember, we are just talking makeup. :D
Extra Credit!
For further reading, check out "Ukiyo-e: 250 Years of Japanese Art" to get a better understanding of the roles and boundaries of the Courtesan and Geisha... and to oogle at the gorgeous full color plates. I'm geeking out.
The book is predominately images of wood block prints with a bit of history related text mixed in which really fleshed out the subject matter for me.
The book is predominately images of wood block prints with a bit of history related text mixed in which really fleshed out the subject matter for me.
Geisha Breakdown
Ohaguro
Ohaguro- The Art of Teeth Blackening. Why? I can imagine a few reasons for doing this. First, go paint your face white and smile. You're teeth look nasty don't they? Enameling the teeth also gave them a longer life in an era without modern dentistry.In this article we can see that teeth were painted black in other Asian countries like Vietnam. Their society saw it as a coming of age and as a way to protect the teeth.
I once read of a demonstration where the presenter, face whitened and teeth blackened, showed her face illuminated by candlelight to a group of students. In the presentation it became obvious why an artist would go to such makeup extremes. Especially considering the Geisha worked during the night before there were Electric light sources in Japan.
(Right: A Vietnamese woman with blackened teeth.)
Which Geisha is which?
How come the makeup in the images I've found looks a little different from Geisha to Geisha?
Well, it helps to know that Geisha is a term that you wouldn't normally use. You would want to be searching for images of Maiko or Geiko. There's definitely a hierarchy in the Geisha Houses and the makeup helps to differentiate. A Maiko is an apprenticed Geiko (Geisha). When she debuts as a Geiko, she will finally have her lips fully painted on. As her career progresses, her makeup will also evolve. Senior Geiko way wear their hair long instead of up and may even have slightly longer eyebrows. A Geiko over thirty may rarely be spotted wearing her heavy makeup, except for special occasions. Click to view face charts depicting different levels of Maiko and Geiko.
Well, it helps to know that Geisha is a term that you wouldn't normally use. You would want to be searching for images of Maiko or Geiko. There's definitely a hierarchy in the Geisha Houses and the makeup helps to differentiate. A Maiko is an apprenticed Geiko (Geisha). When she debuts as a Geiko, she will finally have her lips fully painted on. As her career progresses, her makeup will also evolve. Senior Geiko way wear their hair long instead of up and may even have slightly longer eyebrows. A Geiko over thirty may rarely be spotted wearing her heavy makeup, except for special occasions. Click to view face charts depicting different levels of Maiko and Geiko.
Watch a Geisha apply makeup
How about a really good demonstration and then a step-by-step for achieving a realistic Geisha look? Sounds like a plan.
*My educated guess is, based on the way in which she uses the red pigment around the eyes and the way she paints her lips, that the artist is a Senior Maiko.
*My educated guess is, based on the way in which she uses the red pigment around the eyes and the way she paints her lips, that the artist is a Senior Maiko.
curated content from YouTube
Geisha Base
The artist begins by applying a wax substance to the face as a setter for the next step, which will be a white rice powder paste. Don't forget the neck!
Rice powder is mixed with water to get the proper application. In the past, lead-based whites were used.
When applying rice powder paste, she begins by defining the nape of the neck. Usually in a V or W shape, the video shows a W. Excess moisture is removed with a sponge. The small space between the white makeup base and the hairline is meant to give the illusion of a mask.
I think that I would try using a round cosmetic sponge (the kind sold next to the wedge shaped sponges) to smooth the makeup and remove moisture. The super fine texture would probably be better for smoothing out brush strokes. I've used my face painting sponges for this in the past which is pretty hit or miss.
Rice powder is mixed with water to get the proper application. In the past, lead-based whites were used.
When applying rice powder paste, she begins by defining the nape of the neck. Usually in a V or W shape, the video shows a W. Excess moisture is removed with a sponge. The small space between the white makeup base and the hairline is meant to give the illusion of a mask.
I think that I would try using a round cosmetic sponge (the kind sold next to the wedge shaped sponges) to smooth the makeup and remove moisture. The super fine texture would probably be better for smoothing out brush strokes. I've used my face painting sponges for this in the past which is pretty hit or miss.
And the Details
In the video we see a touch of contouring around the bridge of the nose with a red-pigmented powder. Then the brows, which would traditionally be drawn in charcoal, are accentuated with a deep red eye pencil. Later, it appears she comes back to the brows with red powder and gently gives them more definition.
Red is added to the corner of the eyes and blended inwards. Then, the lash line is defined with modern liquid eyeliner.
Notice how the lips are drawn smaller but now clownish. Think more Clara Bow than court jester. ;)
Red is added to the corner of the eyes and blended inwards. Then, the lash line is defined with modern liquid eyeliner.
Notice how the lips are drawn smaller but now clownish. Think more Clara Bow than court jester. ;)
Important!
Important Tips
If you plan on going for a totally false brow, it may be wise to seal the natural brows and conceal them before applying the white base.
If you have a much darker skin tone, I would suggest "nuding out" the lips before painting them white. In other words, hit the lips with a bit of concealer first.
If you have a much darker skin tone, I would suggest "nuding out" the lips before painting them white. In other words, hit the lips with a bit of concealer first.
Geisha Makeup Links
At this point you should no longer be wandering around in the dark! I've got links galore for you, anyway.
Next time you are going Japanese, remember you read this.
P.S. Please...Please...Hair sticks, yes. Chopsticks, no.
Next time you are going Japanese, remember you read this.
P.S. Please...Please...Hair sticks, yes. Chopsticks, no.
- Japanese Geisha-Maiko Makeup & Tools
- More guidance and picking the perfect makeup and tools for nailing the look. Now that's dedication!
- Immortal Geisha - Information About Japanese Geisha and Lifestyle
- Immortal Geisha website is devoted to the lives, history, beauty and tradition of Japanese Geisha, Geiko and Maiko.
How could you not love this site? If nothing else, look at their FAQ for face charts and how to properly wear a kimono. - Welcome to Wodeford Hall
- What did they look like in Japan during the Medieval era? Re-enacting Japanese in the SCA? Look no further.
- Fuyou-hime on deviantART
- This artist has stayed in Japan and taken numerous pictures of real Maiko and Geiko, not just on the street but during performances as well. Very cool stuff!
Further Reading
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Featured Lenses
My First Purple Star
February 11, 2012
"Purple Stars are fairy dust. They're magic. They're surprises. They're trophies celebrating authentic, original, fantastic content on Squidoo. They're given out by our editors and community organizers, whenever they find a lens that makes them smile." Thank you so much! I am so very flattered! Now I am more motivated than ever to keep publishing lenses and to reach Giant Squid status. :D
Lens of the Day
Feb 17th 2012
My first but, hopefully, not my last.I am flattered beyond words. I have come to love the Squidoo community and I am most appreciative of this special recognition! If I have inspired one person, I am happy. To inspire so many leaves me truly speechless, Thank you!
Guestbook Comments
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TTMall
Mar 5, 2012 @ 4:23 pm | delete
- Very informative lens. Well done!
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ElBat Mar 4, 2012 @ 10:58 am | delete
- I try to read anything that has to do with maiko's and geiko's. But I didn't know about the blackened teeth. Thank's for the great lens!
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accfuller
Feb 27, 2012 @ 2:45 pm | delete
- Very nice, very informative.
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cceerpp
Feb 24, 2012 @ 12:07 pm | delete
- Interesting
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gonzalezdenise Feb 22, 2012 @ 3:36 pm | delete
- Very informative lens, I have learned alot about make-up.
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webkangaroo
Feb 21, 2012 @ 9:57 am | delete
- Really a cool lens -- never even thought of this as a topic! Great work, thanks --
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davenjilli
Feb 21, 2012 @ 8:49 am | delete
- So totally fascinating. I grew up in Japan not long after WWII ended, and actually got to see Geisha on occasion. The whole historical Japanese culture is so different from the West. You have captured the essence beautifully here.
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elyria
Feb 19, 2012 @ 7:33 pm | delete
- Very interesting and captivating! Congrats with purple star and lotd!
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CrazyIM
Feb 19, 2012 @ 12:19 am | delete
- The makeup is beautiful and amazing. Your lens brings back my memory in Japan. Thanks for sharing.
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KittySmith
Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:47 pm | delete
- Very entertaining and educated. Thank you/
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CarlittoDunaway
Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:48 pm | delete
- Great lens! But this makeup creeps me out....
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DebMartin
Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:38 pm | delete
- Truly amazing. Way too much work for this girl but I sure appreciate the attention to detail. Admirable. d
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Deadicated
Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:33 pm | delete
- Awesome Lens, thanks for sharing.
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entertainmenteveryday
Feb 18, 2012 @ 9:20 am | delete
- Geisha's are beautiful. What a wonderful lens to create an authentic look.
Congratulations on lens of the day and your purple star - well deserved!
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BasantSoni
Feb 18, 2012 @ 8:09 am | delete
- First..... hearty congrats for the L OF D ...nice portfolio contents & enjoyed other misc. activities depicted in ur other lenses ...
i generate Organic Art from only ingredient of our Mother Earth on Bark canvas of palm tree. No colors/artificial materials. Warm regards... .Basant
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ScienceOfSales
Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
- Great lens you have here!
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ScienceOfSales
Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
- Great lens you have here!
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ScienceOfSales
Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:57 am | delete
- Great lens you have here!
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Feb 18, 2012 @ 6:48 am | delete
- nice lens and also nice look
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fugeecat
Feb 18, 2012 @ 3:57 am | delete
- I never realized that they blackened their teeth. This was interesting to read.
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EditorDave Feb 18, 2012 @ 2:56 am | delete
- Nice lens with fascinating information! I've been to Japan 5 times and have always been curious about the mysterious geisha -- the maiko and geiko. Congratulations on a Squidoo masterpiece!
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grflgrfl
Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:55 am | delete
- Beautiful illustrations/photos. Nice lens.
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safereviews
Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:45 am | delete
- Great lens! Congrats on LOTD... well deserved.
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veryirie
Feb 18, 2012 @ 1:25 am | delete
- Makeup application is artistry in itself. I feel pretty ignorant I never realized about the blackened teeth. Enjoyed reading your page very much and Congrats on the Purple Star. :)
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bloomingrose
Feb 18, 2012 @ 12:36 am | delete
- Lovely lens - congrats on the LOTD. I'll have to check out Geisha: A Life - I did love Memoirs of a Geisha, I want to read your suggestion as well.
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jimbarnes Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:55 pm | delete
- fantastic lenses
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SayGuddaycom
Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:33 pm | delete
- Excellent lens, interesting topic and very enjoyable. Well done.
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ItayasDesigns
Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:30 pm | delete
- Fantastic article! I've always been fascinated by Geisha and now even more so. Congrats on the LOTD award! :)
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LensbyLisa
Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:29 pm | delete
- Congrats on LOTD!
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esvoytko
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:37 pm | delete
- Congrats on the purple star! This is a great lens.
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Lorrie45
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:20 pm | delete
- Congrats on your lens of the Day! I am new. Gonna take me awhile.
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musicaldreamer Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:18 pm | delete
- Really interesting!
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BuddyBink
Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:52 pm | delete
- Nice job. Very educational. Thank you for clearing up the misconception that Geisha's are prostitutes. A very interesting video to watch how the makeup is properly applied. Thanks
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Tipi
Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:19 pm | delete
- Congratulations on LotD! ~ This is a very informative lens about Geisha makeup.
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aquarian_insight
Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:19 pm | delete
- Wow! A truly amazing lens. I think the beauty and significance of the geisha is lost on most people; but you did a great job. Congratulations on LoTD.
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asteroid
Feb 17, 2012 @ 6:57 pm | delete
- I read somewhere that some girls are forced into becoming a Geisha by their family. And that their life is very tough. Do you know anything about it ?
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SirKrispy23
Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:42 pm | delete
- nice lens!
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designsbyharriet
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:36 pm | delete
- Fantastic. I am really impressed with the amount of work you did on this lens. I will remember it for next Halloween.
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JoshK47
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:01 pm | delete
- Great work on this guide! Keep up the awesome work, blessed by a SquidAngel - and congrats on LotD!
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---Chazz
Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:59 pm | delete
- Fascinating lens and an excellent choice for lens of the day! Very informative and the links are well chosen. Blessed and featured on "Wing-ing it on Squidoo", my tribute to the best lenses I've found since donning my wings.
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vividviolet
Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:52 pm | delete
- congrats on the lens of the day! (great lens!)
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awesomedealz4u
Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:17 pm | delete
- Amazing!
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AshAffiches Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:42 pm | delete
- fantastic lens on a lovely topic!
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kathysart
Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:35 pm | delete
- How gorgeous! I have always loved geisha's and thought they were the most elegant women I have ever seen. Lovely lens. Angel blessed.
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LasgalenArts
Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:58 pm | delete
- Thank you for this informative lens. I've learned a lot today. Congrats on that purple star.
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jwcooney
Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:41 pm | delete
- Great lens, I find many aspects of Japanese culture so interesting!
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getmoreinfo
Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:11 pm | delete
- This is just lovely and congrats on the purple star.
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RinchenChodron
Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:00 pm | delete
- Very interesting lens. I also write about Japanese culture. You seem to know a lot about makeup. Congratulations on your purple star - well earned.
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MelonyVaughan
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:56 pm | delete
- I love the overall look, but you really end up appreciating the amount of work that goes into this kind of makeup. Great lens!
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Steph_Tietjen
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:52 pm | delete
- This was totally interesting. Thank you Maybe you will take over the world.
Congrats on your star and lens of the day!
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sockii
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:32 pm | delete
- Many congrats on Lens of the Day!
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shaheda
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:27 pm | delete
- Not into too much makeup,only kohl or kaajal on the lower eye inside and lipstick.But enjoyed watching the movie The memoirs of a Gheisha.Liked your lens very well arranged.Ihave three featured ones,read and leave a comment
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malzeke
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:13 pm | delete
- This is a wonderful lens. The video was most interesting. The painting of the lips was surprising because she did not follow her natural lips but created a doll like upper and lower lip. Nice!
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artbyrodriguez
Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:06 pm | delete
- Very interesting and well written lens!
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TheWhistler
Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:56 am | delete
- Well done! Blessed!
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juliavm
Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:49 am | delete
- Very informative. Thanks for sharing.
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kaazoom Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:35 am | delete
- Congratulations on being chosen as LOTD.
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faye_durham Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:25 am | delete
- Great lens! Congrats on LOTD!
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peachplanet Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:25 am | delete
- Congrats on purple star and LTD! nice lens. well deserved.
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AkitaJitsu
Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:13 am | delete
- Very interesting! Congrats on LOTD!
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Mr_Ham
Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:12 am | delete
- Nice lens. Deserves lens of the day.
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rauspitz Feb 17, 2012 @ 11:01 am | delete
- Interesting lens. Congratulations on the LOTD!
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Upon-Request
Feb 17, 2012 @ 10:10 am | delete
- I never knew about the teeth blackening. Great lens! Congrats on LotD.
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d-artist Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:07 am | delete
- Congratulations on LOTD! very informative and interesting lens...
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agoofyidea
Feb 17, 2012 @ 9:02 am | delete
- Congratulations on LOTD! It is an interesting tradition.
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LooLooBird
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:53 am | delete
- Very interesting! I was mesmerized by the video...
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lbrummer
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:38 am | delete
- Congrats on lens of the day.
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TamaraKajari
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:38 am | delete
- I'm just reading "Memoirs of a Geisha" and I'm glad I saw this. Congrats on LOTD!
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RCGraphicsDesign
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:36 am | delete
- How very interesting and great detail. Glad I came across you lens.
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cinstress
Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:35 am | delete
- nice lens of the day
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rms Feb 17, 2012 @ 8:31 am | delete
- Congratulations, this lens was selected as LOTD today! You can read all about it here: http://hq.squidoo.com/lotd/creating-realistic-geisha-makeup/
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top_10
Feb 17, 2012 @ 7:29 am | delete
- good job! awesome lens.
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RazzbarryBreeze
Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:51 am | delete
- What a great lens. I honestly never understood what a Geisha was until now. Thank you for sharing this.
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intermarks
Feb 17, 2012 @ 5:02 am | delete
- Very interesting lens that go into detail about Geisha Makeup, but I just can't relate up Geisha Makeup which is in Japan and teeth blackening in Vietnam, the two seem a totally different culture.
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greenlungsofpoland
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:47 am | delete
- Super Lens well deserved purple star
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RecipePublishing-ChickenRecipes
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:40 am | delete
- Fascinating lens
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Black_Eagle_Martial_Arts
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:17 am | delete
- Good read, lots of bits I never knew here like the teeth blackening!
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eilval
Feb 17, 2012 @ 4:14 am | delete
- Lovely lens and so informative
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tainlaulence
Feb 17, 2012 @ 3:30 am | delete
- Japan's WuJi is ancient culture.
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AraceliP
Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:22 am | delete
- "First, go paint your face white and smile. You're teeth look nasty don't they?" That made me laugh so loud! Great lens, loved the video too! Next time you should cover their hair too. I saw a documentary once that showed it took hours for them to do their hair!
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Natural_Skin_Care
Feb 17, 2012 @ 2:06 am | delete
- Well, I certainly got an education.
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parwatisingari
Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:50 am | delete
- great,I have added the books to my reading list.
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charlino Feb 17, 2012 @ 1:04 am | delete
- Wonderful source of information. Love the art of geisha.
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desertdarlene Feb 17, 2012 @ 12:12 am | delete
- Great lens! I didn't know they painted their teeth black.
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Ysis
Jan 23, 2012 @ 4:31 pm | delete
- Very beautiful lens and very well documented. The world of gheishas looks fascinating and intriguing, but in reality was quite hard. I have read the "Autobiography of a gheisha" where the dark side of their lives is narrated.
Thank you for liking my lens on the Greek shepherd's flute.
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makeupbrush
Jan 12, 2012 @ 10:58 am | delete
- Oprah has covered a story about a Caucasian woman working as a geisha in Japan one time, they interviewed her and gave an inside look about the life of a geisha. I found it very fascinating. I am always wondering about the details of how to do the makeup. Great info here!
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JaguarJulie Dec 30, 2011 @ 1:39 pm | delete
- Ah, I've always loved the authentic geisha look ... and how the group KISS does theirs too.
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sockii
Dec 25, 2011 @ 7:23 pm | delete
- Great info - really fascinating details.
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DesignZeal
Dec 10, 2011 @ 4:16 pm | delete
- A fascinating subject and a well researched one. Every peek into the hidden and exquisite Willow World is so mesmerizing... :)
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by JZinoBodyArt
I travel the country as a professional body artist, painting in studios and at events. I'm studying makeup and special effects and I plan to take over... more »
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