Automotive Batteries / The National Motor Club / eRoadsideService.com

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

I recommend the use of safety glasses and gloves when working on your vehicles. Batteries vent dangerous gases that can explode if exposed to a flame or spark, so NO SMOKING near or around them.

Proper testing is the first step in determining if it is time to replace your battery. Depending on where you live, the quality of the battery, and your driving habits, a battery should last an average of 36 to 48 months. Dead batteries don't always need to be replaced and many times can be saved by simply charging it using a common household battery charger. This is a time that your motor club membership can really pay off. The testing equipment used in the field can determine if a battery is truly bad and needs to replaced or if a long deep charge is all that's needed. These testers, while analyzing the battery, at the same time check your alternator, starter, and if there are any drains in the electrical systems.
Service technicians are also trained to look for and find simple problems like loose connections or blown fuses. Symptoms that may look and act like a dead battery are sometimes as easy as tightening a connection or resetting an alarm. With batteries now in the $100 range, a proper diagnosis could save you from buying something you really don't need.

Testing of your car's battery will likely require you to disconnect the negative and positive terminals. If you are going to test your battery yourself always make sure the key is removed from the ignition. This is for a couple of very good reasons. Some cars will automatically lock the doors when you reconnect the battery terminals, locking you out of the car. Smart keys or chip keys are very sensitive and a spike in current when you reconnect the battery can damage the key. Average cost to replace a damaged key is $300. The use of a K.A.M. (keep alive memory) tool will sometimes help with voltage spikes but don't rely on them too much. They will however help to keep a low flow of current into the cars computer systems. This is very important on high end cars because loss of power to the computers could mean a very expensive trip to the dealer for some re-sets. They also save your pre-set radio stations, clocks, seats, and mirror positions for you. This tool plugs into a 12 volt port inside the vehicle, like a cigarette lighter port and runs off a 9 volt battery. They are very cheap to buy and can save a lot of time. More expensive ones are available that plug into the cars computer diagnostic port under the dash board on the drivers side.

Take the time to carefully remove any covers and protective sight shields around the battery. Most of these will be made out of plastic and could be dry rotted and brittle. I know of a do-it-yourself-er who damaged a $400 dollar battery cover because it was not removed properly.

Visually inspect the connections, cables, hold down claps, and battery case. Clean the positive and negative, top or side posts on the battery to insure a good clean connection with the tester.There a couple of different testers available to test your cars battery but they all have one thing in common. You must have very clean connections in order to get a true test reading. Corrosion or loose connections will cause resistance and an inaccurate test result.

Follow steps in the "proper maintenance" module below for cleaning procedures to insure an accurate test result.

Hand held load testers and amp meters are the most common way for the do-it-yourself mechanic to test automotive batteries. They work well but don't offer all the benefits of the ones you will see professionals use in their shops. Midtronics makes a great deal of those and they are also real common on the service trucks most motor clubs would send. Since they cost well over $1,000 this might be another time your glad you renewed that motor club membership.

General Guidelines for Using Battery Load Tester To Test A Battery.

Do not attempt to load test a battery while the battery is connected up to a battery charger.

If you are working with a battery that has side terminals, you need to screw in "Charging Posts" in order to connect the load tester.

All load testers become hot during use so allow them to cool down for 2 to 3 minutes between tests. Never hold the load test button down for more than 10 to 15 seconds. Holding the load test button down for a longer period will cause irreparable harm to the load tester.
Voltage Correction For Temperature

When testing a battery where the ambient temperature is between 40°F and 70°F add 0.1 volt for every 10°F below 70F. When testing a battery where the ambient temperature is between 70°F and 100°F, subtract 0.1 volts for every 10°F above 70°F.

Conducting A Battery Load Test

Connect the Red "+" cable to the Positive "+" battery post and the Black "-" cable to the negative "-" battery post. The LCD readout will display the battery voltage.
Hold the "Load Switch" down for 10 seconds. Note the voltage reading on the LCD and release the "Load Switch."
Disconnect the Red lead then the Black lead.

Interpreting The Test Results

A battery in good condition should read between 10.00 and 12.00 volts.
A weak battery will read between 6.10 and 10.00 volts. If the test indicates a weak battery, recharge the battery and conduct the test again. If the results are the same, there are one or more bad cells in the battery and the battery needs to be replaced. If the battery checks good the second time, the battery was not adequately charged before the first test.
A bad battery reads below 6.10 volts. The battery may have been totally discharged before the first test but odds are that the battery is bad and you should replace it.

Using The Load Tester To Test The Starting System

Connect the load tester to the battery as before but do not depress the "Load Test" switch.
Disable the ignition system so the car does not start.
Use a remote start button or have a helper crank the engine for 15 seconds.
Note the voltage readout on the tester's LCD. Assuming a fully charged battery, the voltage should not drop below 9.0 volts. If the voltage drops below 9.0 volts during the test there are electrical or mechanical problems with the starter system
Recharge the battery and repeat the test to confirm the original results.

Conducting A Charging Test

Start the engine and allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
Turn the ignition switch to "OFF" to stop the engine.
Turn the ignition switch to "Accessory" position. Turn the headlights on and the fan on to the high position for one minute. You need to start with a partially discharged batter for this test.
Turn the ignition switch to "OFF" and connect the load tester to the battery.
Start the engine and run at a fast idle (1200 to 1500 RPM.) A charging system in good working order will maintain a voltage between 13.5 and 15.5 volts for a 12-volt system and between 6.7 and 7.4 volts for a 6-volt system. F the voltages are above or below those readings, there is a problem with the charging system.

Conducting An Alternator Test

Connect the red and black battery clamps as before. Plug the small test lead into the jack on the tester and attach the alligator clip to the positive terminal on the alternator. In the case of GM alternators, attach the lead to the N1 terminal without disconnecting the plug.
Start the engine and allow to idle.
If you are testing a Gm alternator, watch the red LED and do not touch the load switch. If the red LED flashes and then goes out or if it never comes on, the diodes are good. If the red LED comes on and stays on the diodes could be bad and the alternator need to be replaced.
If you are not testing a GM alternator, Rev the engine to 1200 to 1500 RPMs.
Press and hold the "Load witch" for 5 seconds. If the red LED flashes and then goes out or never comes on the diodes are good. If the red LED continues to flash or remains on, the alternator or its integral regulator are bad.

Most battery load testers comes with detailed instructions on how to conduct all these tests.

DO NOT think that driving the car or letting it run in your driveway for 30 minutes is going to give a dead battery the deep charge it needs to bring it back to life. This is a myth and will only put an unnecessary strain on the charging system and possibly rein your alternator.

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

I recommend the use of safety glasses and gloves when working on your vehicles. Batteries vent dangerous gases that can explode if exposed to a flame or spark, so NO SMOKING near or around them.

No matter how well you maintain your vehicle, at some point the battery will need to be replaced. Your in very good company. Approximately 275,000 automotive batteries are sold every day in the United States. Most are sold at local automobile repair shops and installed by trained professionals. The rest are sold at retail stores and installed by the do-it-yourself mechanic. If you are one the ones that choose to do it yourself then there are a few things you should know so you can get the right battery, at the right price, and that its installed correctly to get the most miles out of it.

1. Has the battery and charging system been checked and tested?
Be certain your vehicle actually needs a new battery. There are many things that are symptomatic of battery failure but turn out to be less expensive issues like alarm systems that need to reset or a loose or corroded connection.
See proper battery testing above.

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

2. Do you have the vehicles year, make, model, and engine size ready to give to the retailer?
There are several different group sizes sold with varying shapes, post location, and cold cracking amps. Batteries are designed to fit a particular type of vehicle based on where in the vehicle it is located, how demanding the electrical systems is, and climate. Installing the incorrect battery in your vehicle could damage the charging system and will shorten the battery's lifespan. Never assume the correct battery is installed in your vehicle. I have come across hundreds of customers who, for whatever reason, have the wrong battery installed in their vehicle and they all say the same thing...... " it's not that old..... why do you think it died"? Always check the application guide at the retailer, or your owners manual for the correct size battery before purchasing one.

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site
eroadsideservice.com

3. Do you posses all the correct tools to insure a correct and smooth installation?
Installing a car battery may seem like a simple task for many. This like so many other "simple tasks" can become very frustrating, time consuming, and costly if you do not posses the correct tools you need to do it correctly. Lucky most of the tools needed are pretty common and you probably have them in your toolbox already. The more specialty type tools you may want to pick up when you purchase the battery or borrow from a friend or neighbor. Remember, unless you have multiple cars at your home, once you disable your vehicle you will be stranded until its back together. So make you have everything you need before you start. Some of the common tools needed are:

Safety goggles and gloves
Adjustable wrenches
8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm wrenches, sockets and extension
Pliers
Wire brush

Additional tools that you may consider getting to make this job easier are:
A fender cover
A battery cleaning tool
A battery carrying tool
K.A.M. (keep alive memory) tool
You may want to have a can of battery terminal protector handy as well.

Are you informed on how to properly remove your old battery and install a new one?
Park on a flat, level surface at a safe distance from traffic and set the parking brake.
Plug a memory keeper into the lighter socket. A K.A.M. (keep alive memory) tool will keep the PIN codes and settings for radios and navigation systems from getting erased when you disconnect the battery. If you don't have a memory keeper make sure you have all the PINs for your electronic equipment before you start. You may wish to check your car manual to see what devices may be affected.
After opening your hood, use the prop rod to keep your hood open (Most newer cars have hoods that hold themselves up.
Locate the battery - The battery should be located in an accessible part on either side of the car's frame. The battery is a rectangular box with two cables attached to it. Some European cars (BMW's, new Benz-Chrysler) have the battery under the matting in the trunk, or inside the fender of the wheel well (The latter is often very difficult to remove).
Identify battery terminals - Locate the positive and the negative terminals of the old car battery. The positive terminal will have a plus sign and the negative terminal will have a minus sign.
Disconnect the negative terminal - Loosen the negative cable clamp with a wrench (Usually 8mm or 10mm) and slide it off of the terminal. If the cables are unmarked, label them so that they don't get mixed up (otherwise you may ruin your car's electric system later on). It is also important that you disconnect the negative terminal socket before the positive terminal socket. Otherwise, you may short circuit the positive terminal to a grounded part of the car.
Disconnect the positive terminal.
Remove the car battery - Unfasten the battery holder and remove any screws, clamps or bars holding the battery in place. Carefully lift the battery out of the car. Remember that a battery can weigh 30 to 60 pounds, or 13.5 to 27 kilos, so if you have any back problems, get a helping hand.
Clean the terminal clamps and the battery tray. You can use a baking soda solution and a wire brush. Let the area dry before moving onto the next step
Replace the battery - Place the new battery where you just took the old battery out, with the positive and negative terminals on the correct sides. Connect all the screws, clamps or bars that may hold the battery in place.
Reconnect the positive terminal - Tighten the clamps using a wrench.
Reconnect the negative terminal - Tighten the clamp with the wrench.
Apply battery protector spray - Spray the terminals to prevent corrosion.
Close the hood - Shut the hood of your car firmly and start your car. Check that all the electronic devices are working properly.

Do you know what the local rules and regulations are for proper disposal of the old battery?
Dispose of the used battery at service garages, auto supply stores, and recycling centers. There may be a small fee for the service, but throwing the battery away as normal garbage is not an option.
In the US, most battery retailers charge a deposit on the battery, which will be refunded with the return of an old battery.

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

I recommend the use of safety glasses and gloves when working on your vehicles. Batteries vent dangerous gases that can explode cause if exposed to a flame or spark, so NO SMOKING near or around them.

Batteries should be cleaned and tested at least 2 times a year to make sure you are not left stranded. Your membership in a large motor club like The National Motor Club would pay for itself in just battery maintenance each year.

If you are going to clean and maintain your battery yourself always make sure the key is removed from the ignition. This is for a couple of very good reasons. Some cars will automatically lock the doors when you reconnect the battery terminals, locking you out of the car. Smart keys or chip keys are very sensitive and a spike in current when you reconnect the battery can damage the key. Average cost to replace a damaged key is $300.

The use of a K.A.M. (keep alive memory) tool will sometimes help with voltage spikes but don't rely on them too much. They will however keep a low flow of current into the cars computer systems. This is very important on high end cars because loss of power to the computers could mean a very expensive trip to the dealer for some re-sets. They also save your pre-set radio stations, clocks, seats, and mirror positions for you. This tool plugs into a 12 volt port inside the vehicle, like a cigarette lighter port and runs off a 9 volt battery. They are very cheap to buy and can save a lot of time. More expensive ones are available that plug into the cars computer diagnostic port under the dash board on the drivers side.

Take the time to carefully remove any covers and protective sight shields around the battery. Most of these will be made out of plastic and could be dry rotted and brittle. I know of a do-it-yourself-er who damaged a $400 dollar battery cover because it was not removed properly.

I don't like the term "maintenance free". Nothing is ever maintenance free if you expect it to last. Battery manufactures started using that term on labels and in marketing years ago. Most batteries are sealed and cannot be opened to check the level of electrolyte solution, for some reason that was considered maintenance free. This does not mean you never have to give your battery some attention. If your battery is fitted with removable cell caps then remove them and check to make sure your battery has the correct amount of solution in each of the 6 cells. You can top off the cells with distilled water, not tap water. Tap water has minerals that will leave deposits on the lead cell plates. Do not fill the cells to the top. As the battery heats up during normal use the fluids and gases expand, overfilling them will just cause them to leak. Completely dry cells cause the lead plates inside the battery to break down and sulfate rather quickly. This will result in inevitable battery failure in the very near future. If you find your battery has a completely dry cell I would recommend replacing the battery now before it leaves you stranded.

Next, you must have very clean connections. This is done with battery cleaning tools, wire brushes, and some sort of cleaning solution. You can buy a can of corrosion cleaner from the store or there are many home made mixtures that work just as well. The most common and effective is baking soda and water. Corrosion or loose connections will cause resistance and could result in a poor charging performance and shorten battery life. Carefully disconnect the negative connection first, then the positive. Its important to remove the negative first. If the negative cable comes in contact with something metal under the hood its harmless. If the positive cable makes contact with something metal while the negative cable is still connected it could cause damage to the electrical system or a spark, as I mentioned earlier, gases from batteries are dangerous and can explode if exposed to a spark or flame. Battery cleaner tools and metal brushes are very inexpensive. As with any project the use of "the right tool, for the right job" will always make it easier. Carefully clean the cable ends with your cleaner tool, wire brush and cleaning solution of all corrosion and dirt. They should be as clean as possible and be shinny when you are done. Replace them if they are badly corroded, cracked, or broken. Check the condition of the cables too. If there are signs of corrosion under the rubber insulation that will also need to be cleaned. Now with your battery cleaning tool and cleaning solution clean the top or side posts on the battery. If possible clean the posts on the battery while the it is still fastened ti the tray, its a good way to keep your hands free while cleaning the posts. After you are satisfied with how clean the cables and post are you can remove the hold down assembly. As you remove the nuts, bolts, and clamps remember to clean them also. Store them in some sort of container so they can dry and don't get lost. Carefully lift the battery out of the battery tray and place into a container for cleaning. Use a clean rag and some cleaning solution and wipe off the top and sides of the battery. While doing so inspect the battery for cracks and leaks. If you find a crack that is leaking even a small amount of liquid I recommend replacing the battery. Acid leaks will not only reduce the life span of the battery but will corrode and damage other parts like wiring harness, hoses, and bushings.

OK, you have cleaned all the posts, connections, cables, hold components, battery tray, topped off the cells, and have inspected the battery case itself. Now you can start re-installing the battery back into the vehicle.

Carefully place the battery back into the battery tray, taking notice to what side the positive and negative should face. If you try to install the battery in the wrong direction, chances are the cables will not reach the posts. This also increases the chances that you will connect the negative cable to the positive post and positive cable to the negative post.

If your battery has an insulation or heat shield or plastic case that goes around it check to see if it needs to be re-installed before or after the hold clamps and cables. Some go on before and some go on after, most go on before.

Replace the hold down clamps, they help to minimize vibration in the battery. Vibrations cause the lead plates inside the battery to loosen and break apart. This will dramatically reduce your batteries life span. Hold clamps also keep the battery from shifting or sliding around. I've seen the end result of a battery popping out of the tray and making contact with the underside of the hood or sliding into a fan and serpentine belts. Its an expensive mistake to make.

Re-connect the battery cable reverse of when you removed them. Connect positive first and then negative.
Make sure to tighten them but not over tighten them. Most battery posts and terminals are made out of lead, a very soft metal, and will easily strip if you over tighten them.

Use a spray-on anti-corrosive product to minimize corrosion build up. This should be applied after the terminals are securely back onto the posts. You always want a metal to metal connection to the post with a terminal.

It is now safe to remove the K.A.M. tool.

Make sure you have gathered up and cleaned the corrosion off all of the tools used.

I have seen cases where battery warranties have been voided and a replacements denied due negligence. Battery manufactures and suppliers assume once a battery is bought and installed it is being properly maintained and can void a warranty if they feel it wasn't. Even letting your car sit idol for a short period of time can be considered negligence now and be grounds to void a warranty. With new testing technology available repair shops and retailers are becoming more accountable for controlling warranty rates. You should keep accurate vehicle maintenance records and remember to record your battery maintenance in it. This could save you down the road if the battery fails while still under warranty. If you are a member of a motor club like, The National Motor Club, they have an emergency roadside service program that provides on the spot battery testing, sales, and installation. Your membership can really pay off when it comes to battery service and warranty claims because they keep records of when they sold, installed, and maintained the battery.

The National Motor Club offers this service to its members.

For information on NMC, the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member for pennies a day, please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

Most automotive batteries are made up of plates of lead and separate plates of lead dioxide, which are submerged into an electrolyte solution of about 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water. This causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors to produce electricity. As the battery discharges, the acid of the electrolyte reacts with the materials of the plates, changing their surface to lead sulfate. When the battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed: the lead sulfate reforms into lead oxide and lead. With the plates restored to their original condition, the process may now be repeated.

The manufacturing process begins with the production of a plastic container and cover. Most automotive battery containers and their covers are made of polypropylene. For a typical 12-volt car battery, the case is divided into six sections, or cells, shaped somewhat like one row in an ice-cube tray. The cover is dropped on and sealed when the battery is finished.
The process continues with the manufacture of grids or plates from lead or an alloy of lead and other metals. A battery must have positive and negative plates to conduct a charge.

Next, a paste mixture of lead oxide -- which is powdered lead and other materials -- sulfuric acid and water is applied to the grids. Expander material made of powdered sulfates is added to the paste to produce negative plates.

Inside the battery, the pasted positive and negative plates must be separated to prevent short circuits. Separators are thin sheets of porous, insulating material used as spacers between the positive and negative plates. Fine pores in the separators allow electrical current to flow between the plates while preventing short circuits.

In the next step, a positive plate is paired with a negative plate and a separator. This unit is called an element, and there is one element per battery cell, or compartment in the container. Elements are dropped into the cells in the battery case. The cells are connected with a metal that conducts electricity. The lead terminals, or posts, are then welded on.

The battery is then filled with electrolyte - or battery acid -- a mixture of sulfuric acid and water, and the cover is attached. The battery is checked for leaks.

The final step is charging, or finishing. During this step, the battery terminals are connected to a source of electricity and the battery is charged for many hours. When the battery is fully charged, it moves to another line where the case is cleaned, if necessary, and the labels are attached.

For information on the largest independent motor club in the country, The National Motor Club and to become a member today please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com

Proper Disposal

Standard car batteries commonly contain heavy metals, such as lead, as well as acid and plastic. When not disposed of properly, these components contaminate the environment, including the air, water and soil. No matter the size of the car batteries (6-volt or 12-volt), and whether they are used in automobiles, motorcycles or trucks, you must dispose of car batteries properly because they are categorized as hazardous waste. In about 90 percent of cases, car batteries can be recycled. But, you need to get them to the correct location for recycling.

Contact a recycling center near your residence. Metal recyclers may actually pay you for your old car batteries.

Take the old car batteries to a local household hazardous waste facility or drop-off site for safe disposal.

Bring your old car batteries to an auto repair store or garage. Many of them accept old batteries for recycling.

Exchange old car batteries at a retailer that sells new lead-acid batteries. The majority of retail outlets that sell lead-acid car batteries also collect such used batteries for recycling.

Recycling

Because of the materials that comprise a typical automotive (lead-acid) battery, there are three main "streams" in the recycling process for this particular product. Most of today's battery cases are made of polypropylene, which is easily recycled into new plastic products. Before plastic found it's way into the market, all batteries were made from hard rubber, the same material that makes up bowling balls.

Step One - Separate

After the obsolete batteries are collected, they are sent to a facility for sorting and processing. According to Battery Council International, the batteries are first placed in a machine called a "hammermill," which crushes the batteries into small, nickel-size pieces. These pieces then are placed in a tank, where the dissimilar densities of the materials cause some to sink (lead), some to float (hard rubber and plastic) and liquids to go into solution (battery acid). From here, the materials are separated and treated individually.

Step Two - Lead and Plastic

The lead from the tank is melted in furnaces and then poured into molds called "ingot" molds. These molds can range in weight from 65 to 2,000 pounds. While the lead is still in a molten form, impurities (also known as "dross") float to the top of the mold and are skimmed off to further purify the lead. Once the lead is cooled, it is shipped to battery manufacturers for reuse in new batteries.

After being scooped from the tank, battery plastic is separated from the hard rubber and recycled in a similar manner to most other plastics. It is washed and dried, then sent to a recycling facility where it is placed in an extruder. An extruder is a machine that uses heat and pressure to melt plastic. The plastic is cut into homogeneous pellets and sent to be made again into new batteries. Rubber cases cannot be recycled, but it makes a good carbon additive in the secondary lead smelting process.

Step Three - Battery Acid

The third main material, battery acid, can be reused. This method involves adding a neutralizing agent to the acid, breaking it down into water and a salt compound. The water is then tested for cleanliness and is typically released into a public sewer system.

For information on the largest independent motor club in the country and to become a member today please go to my web site eroadsideservice.com