Bakelite is a brand name for phenol formaldehyde resin, which is a plastic first created in 1907 by Dr. Leo Baekeland. Although a brand name, Bakelite is normally used to describe phenol formaldehyde resin made by any maker. We will use the term "Bakelite" for our purposes.

Bakelite was used in jewelry in this country into the late 1960s early 1970s. Formula's for this substance have varied over time and from company to company. The chemical formulas while similar are not exactly the same (even varying from batch to batch and color to color) so not all "Bakelite" will test exactly the same.

The only was to ABSOLUTELY POSTIVELY identify a piece of Bakelite is to have a professional lab do chemical testing. The lab will need to actually destroy a part of the item to actually do so. Since don't want to destroy the value of our jewels, we have some other ideas about some other less destructive methods of testing.

There is no substitute for actually handling and experience. It does take time to gain both, so here are guidelines to help you obtain it!

An item should meet some basic criteria before you consider doing further tests on it.

#1 Basic Observable Criteria
1. Bakelite has no Mold Lines
2. Bakelite is heavier then other plastics
3. Two pieces of Bakelite struck together will have a distinctive sound
4. Bakelite has a unique surface, interiors usually slightly pitted. Exteriors may vary according to actually finish, use, and wear.
5. Bakelite was most often hand finished. Items would have been hand sanded and polished.
6. Older pieces of Bakelite will not have "glued" hardware. In most cases "glued" hardware is an indicator you should consider the possibility of a piece being "Fakelite" (a new reproduction piece of Bakelite, or newly reworked piece). BUT remember Bakelite was produced in the late 1960s possibly very early 1970s. And epoxy type glues started to be used in the late 1950s. There are legitimate pieces of "Vintage" Bakelite jewelry out there from the late 1950s-early 1970s. I personally consider "Vintage Jewelry" to be anything 1980s or older at this point. For an item to be "Vintage Bakelite" I would have to believe it to be made earlier then 1974. Realize people's perception of "Vintage" may vary. As with any other antique always keep in mind provenance when trying to determine if an item is genuinely "Vintage".

#2 Hot Water Test -
Run hot water over a Bakelite item it should have a formaldehyde type odor. Some other types of plastics can be damaged by hot water, so be careful not to make it so hot that you could not keep you hand under the water without burning it.

We feel it is absolutely imperative for an item to pass the Hot Water test for it to be Bakelite. There are other plastics which will create an odor under hot water, such as: celluloid (vinegar smell) and Galalith (burning milk or almost a fish odor). The odor of Bakelite is more distinctive and has a menthol type aspect to it. It is best to keep a piece of Bakelite positively identified by an expert to compare other items to. Remember all the formulas were different, so there could be a slight difference from piece to piece, but the odor should be essentially the same.

#3 Final Test -
Because of the false positives sometimes given by chemical testing, you will want to be sure your item meets the basic criteria's of Bakelite AND the hot water test before bothering to use a chemical test. You have a few choices here:
* Simichrome Polish - My favorite -- Take a small bit of Simichrome on a cotton swab. Rub it on an unobtrusive area. It is best to then take the other end of your cotton swab with no Simichrome on it and rub VERY HARD against the polish you have left there to see if you get a stain. Bakelite will stain the cotton swab a yellow or brown color. The color will vary because of different colors of Bakelite, different formulas used to create the substance, the amount of wear and contact to air, and the type of finished used on the piece. European pieces tend to test darker, as do pieces which were well loved and worn. Simichrome or turtle wax can also be used to polish the piece. NOTE the staining of the cotton swab results from oxidation of the Bakelite material when exposed to air. If you test to much you will remove the oxidation and the item will not test again for years.
* 409 - A small amount of 409 on a cotton swab will work in a similar fashion. Be sure an do this in an unobtrusive place with running water nearby. You will want to immediately rinse the item as 409 can destroy the finish. (Note Simichrome or turtle wax can be used to repair the finish on a "Stripped" piece.)
* Scrubbing Bubbles - This can also be used in the same way as Simichrome and 409. A small amount on a cotton swab should yield a yellow stain if the item is Bakelite. Be sure to do near running water and test in an unobtrusive area as with 409. This test is the most destructive to item finish. I try to avoid it.
* Bakelite Test Strips - You can buy Bakelite test pads which do the same as the above chemicals.

If your item passes the basic criteria, hot water, and one of the "Chemical" tests it is mostly likely "BAKELITE" Congratulations!

If your item does not pass the final step, it is..
* Not Bakelite
* Heavily coated and the oxidation reaction and the "chemical reaction" could not occur because of it (As in the cases or expoy or resin type finishes)
* The item has been tested too many times and the oxidation has worn off
* The item is actually a newly made piece of "Fakelite" OR a newly reworked Artists piece.

PLEASE DO NOT USE THE HOT PIN TEST! - The hot pin test is an antiquated method which is actually quite dangerous. Some plastics can spontaneously combust. The damage from "Hot Pinning" can drastically reduce the value of a piece. Please, Please, Please don't use it!

Happy Hunting!
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