A Beginner's Guide to Sewing

How to Assemble a Sewing Kit
Like any other hobby, a successful sewing project starts with the right tools and a little knowledge of the craft. Yes, you can easily find the basic sewing tools in your home: your old pair of scissors down in your garage; pins from your drawers, or rulers that your kids use in school. However, you will have a more convenient sewing experience if you use the right tools intended for the job.

Before you start any sewing activities, make sure you have a checklist to round up all your sewing tools. A basic sewing kit includes a:
Tape measure
Dressmakers shears
Trimming scissor
Fabric markers both for dark and light markers
Invisible transparent tape
Pincushion and glass-head pins
Hand needles
Needles for sewing machine
Seam ripper
TAPE MEASURE
You use a tape measure to take your own measurements, to check the right measurements on patterns, and some other tasks that need to be measured. There are different types of tape measures but the most practical and easy way is the coated fabric tape measure. To keep the tape measure handy, try draping it around your neck.
Dressmakers SHEARS
Have the eight-inch bent shears. Dressmaker shears are the most efficient tools for cutting fabric. These shears have one bent-angle and one straight blade, a rounded thumbhole, and for precise and comfortable cutting, an oblong finger hole. The bent angle blades provide a spot where your index finger can rest for long-cutting jobs. And to ensure more accurate cuts, the bend on the shears blade stops you from lifting your fabric off the table.
THE 5-INCH TRIMMING SCISSORS
These scissors are intended for trimming smaller areas. The blades of these types of scissors are straight, and they have round holes for the thumb and the finger.
When you shop for shears and scissors, see to it that you properly test them first. Make sure that they cut all the way to the blade tips.
FABRIC MARKERS
Remember that in sewing, it is important to match up the right pieces of the project precisely, otherwise the fit won't be right. So that you match the pieces of the fabric patterns correctly, patterns now include match points called the dots and the notches, printed on the pattern tissues. The fabric markers especially designed for sewing provide ease in transferring the notches from the pattern to the fabric itself.
Some types of fabric markers include:
Disappearing dressmakers chalks: These are great for dark fabrics. The chalk markings disappear after five days or after the fabric is washed and ironed.

Wash-out pencils: These are also suitable for dark fabrics and can be erased with a drop of cold water. It looks similar to a regular pencil and the lead is white, pink or light blue.

Vanishing Markers: Ideal for marking fabrics that are light colored and disappears in twelve to twenty-four hours.

Water-Erasable Markers: These are felt-tipped markers used to mark light to medium colored fabrics.
INVISIBLE TRANSPARENT TAPES
These tapes are useful but not important marking tapes. These tapes can be easily seen when placed on fabric because of the cloudy appearance. Removable tapes are ideal in some types of fabrics like corduroy, velvet or velour since the tape doesn't pull off the nap from these types of fabrics.
PIN CUSION AND GLASS HEAD PINS
These are essential things you need for your sewing projects. You need them to secure the pattern to the fabric. You can also pin fabrics together before you sew them. Glass-head pins are recommended because they fit securely in your fingers especially when you pin multiple layers of fabrics. And if you accidentally iron the glass heads, they don' melt like the plastic ones.
It is also important that you have a safe place where you can keep your pins. Glass-head pins are sold in convenient plastic boxes that serve as the pin holders. However, experts say wearing a wrist pincushion is very practical so that the pins stay wherever the sewer goes. Magnetic pincushions are also handy. Aside from pins, other metal objects like the seam ripper or small scissors can stick to the surface that is magnetized.
HAND NEEDLES
When buying hand needles, take the variety pack. This pack provides most of the needles important for hand-sewing projects. Although variety packs of needles vary from brand to brand, they generally have about ten needles per pack in varied lengths and thickness. Others even have varied sizes of eyes.
NEEDLES FOR SEWING MACHINE
The standard size of a sewing machine needle is size #11 based on American sizing, or #12/80 for European sizing. About eighty percent of the fabrics today are good for these needles. However, if you aren't sure about the size of the needle for a particular fabric, take time to read the Operating Manual of your sewing machine. There are some needles that provide varied types of points, designed to cater to different stitching techniques as well as different fabric types.
SEAM RIPPER
A seam ripper is a type of sewing tool that has a point designed to lifts stitched off the fabric.
It is important that you have the right tools for your sewing activities. Start your sewing activities by obtaining the proper dressmaking tools.

Selecting the Right Fabric
Selecting the right fabric is very confusing because of the overwhelming and tremendous selections available. As you go over the different types of fabrics, the first thing that catches your attention is the splashy colors. Then you start to gain interest in their textures and weaves. The options are mind boggling which is why being informed about different fabrics is critical to having a sewing project that is successful.
TYPES OF FABRIC ACCORDING TO ITS FIBER CONTENT
The fiber content of fabric generally determines how comfortable the fabric is once worn and how you can properly take care of the garment. Below is a list of the types of fabric with its corresponding fiber content.
Natural Fiber Fabrics- These include cotton, linen, ramie, silk and wool
Man-Made Fiber Fabrics- Examples are acetate and triacetate, acrylic, nylon, olefin, polyesters, rayon, and spandex.
Leathers and Suede's
Synthetic Suede's
Vinyl's
Furs
Natural Fiber Fabrics
These are made from materials found and grown in nature. The fibers used come from silkworm cocoons, animal coats, leaves, and stems. These types of fabrics are recyclable and are biodegradable. In recycling, fabrics are shredded again to fibers, and re-spun into a coarse yarn before finally weaving or knitting them. The most common recycled fabrics is wool. Additionally, cotton can also be recycled and then created into mattress fillings, wiping cloths, and carpet backings.
Cotton
This is popular for its appearance, versatility, performance, and comfort. Cotton is available in varied fabric weights, patterns, colors, prices, and weaves. Cottons basically come from seedpods of cotton plants. These plants are grown in places with warm climates with enough rainfall. Cotton fibers are carefully put to a boil to vary its length. The longer the length, the more expensive they are.
Hemp
This is produced out of the cannabis Sativa plant. The process of making hemp starts by separating the fibers of the Sativa plant and then weaving it to form yarns and fabrics. The finest hemp fabric is produced in Italy. Hemp appears linen like and wrinkles easily.
Linen
This type of fabric is made from stalks of the flax plant, the strongest among all the vegetable fibers. Linen is two to three times stronger than cotton. Its fibers can range from two to thirty-six inches long. In making linen, the fibers are first spun to form a yarn, which is woven to become a fabric. This fabric comes in a variety of weights.

The lightest is the handkerchief, and the heaviest is linen suiting. Because of its ability to absorb high amounts of moisture, linen is best for hot and humid climates. The more linen is washed, the more it becomes softer and smoother. The smooth surface of the linen is due to its natural wax content.
Ramie
This is a soft, hairy fiber with almost similar qualities as those of linen. Ramie is frequently blended with some other types of fabrics either man-made or natural. Ramie also has a high luster and comes in a natural white color. Since it is quick absorbent, it is very quick to dry.
Silk
Known as the queen of all Textiles:, silk is a sensuous and luxurious cloth that is made out of cocoons of the silkworm. There are generally two types of silkworms, namely: commercial or cultivated, and the wild.
Wool
This is a natural anima fiber that is made from animal coats. The fibers of wool can easily curl which makes it spongy because of the spaces it creates when it curls. Wool is warm to wear during the winter, and lightweight can be cool in the summer. It absorbs moisture and is water repellent, flame resistant, and it resists wrinkling.
Batik
This is a man-made fiber that is either 100% rayon or 100% cotton. Batik is created thru a dyeing process that is based from a wax applied to the fabric.
Batiste and Voile

Batiste is a man-made fabric known for its soft and semi-sheer characteristics. It can be polyester, cotton, or cotton blend. This type of fabric is very lightweight, durable, washable, and comfortable. This is used as under linings, or for heirloom sewing, but is also ideal for interfacings, lingerie, and blouses. Additionally, voile is similar with batiste, only it is crisper and comes in a great variety of colors.

Choosing the right fabric is overwhelming because of the many options you can consider. Take time to identify which fabric will work well before you finally decide to purchase.

Zipping It Up: Learning the Varied Types of Zippers and Closures
In dressmaking and sewing, zippers are very important. Zippers are types of fasteners or closures widely used in joining two edges of fabric. They are also used for clothing, bags, luggage, sporting goods, and textiles.

A zipper is composed of two different strips of fabric tape. Each strip is attached to a piece from the two parts to be joined. It carries tens or even hundreds of specially designed plastic or metal teeth. Operated by hand, the slider moves along the teeth of the slide. Inside the slider, there is a Y-shaped channel that separates or joins the opposing rows of teeth.
Types of Zippers
There are different types of zippers which are categorized according to their uses. Below are some examples.
Coil Zippers
These are the most common types of zippers used worldwide. The slider of the zipper runs on two different coils on both sides. The teeth of these types of zippers are the coils. Additionally, there are two basic types of coils that are used. The first one has coils in a spiral form, normally with its cord running inside the coils. The second one is the ladder form called the Ruhrmann type. This is used in specific parts of the world, particularly in South Asia. Coil zippers are generally made of polyester coils, which is why they are also called polyester zippers.
Invisible Zippers
The teeth of these types of zippers are placed behind the tape. The color of the tape matches with the color of the garments. The zipper is virtually invisible, except the slider. These types are common in dresses and skirts and are mostly polyester.
Metallic Zippers
These are the most classic types of zippers found in jeans today. Its teeth aren't coil but rather individual pieces of metal that have been molded into shape before set on regular intervals on the zipper tape. Metal zippers can be made from aluminum, brass, or nickel, depending on the type of metal used in making the teeth. All the metal zippers are made basically from flat wire.

There are also some specialized metal zippers that are made from heavy duty pre-formed wires, usually brass. However, only a few companies have the technology to manufacture such types. These types of metal zippers are mostly used in work-wear, high grade jeans wear, and others where high strength, durability, and the ability to withstand tough washing is required.
Plastic-molded Zippers
These types are the same with the metal zippers but its teeth are plastic. These zippers can be manufactured in varied colors of plastic and commonly use polyacetal or polyethylene resin.
Open-ended zippers
These zippers use a particular mechanism called a box and pin to securely lock in place the two sides of the zipper. These are mostly found in jackets.
Closed-ended zippers
These are the types of zippers where both its ends are close. These are commonly used in baggage.
What is a Hook and Eye Closure?
Another type of fastener is called the hook and eye closure. This is commonly used on undergarments like brassieres. The hook and eye closure is very easy to sew in because of its design which makes it easy to handle. This closure can be efficiently used in wide varieties of garments, and comes in a wide variety of sizes and colors.

The hook and eye is made from metal. It consists of two basic parts, the metal hoop and the eye loop where the metal hook slips through. Once it has slipped through, the eye loop then firmly holds the hook and eye closure together. What makes this closure tightly secured is the pulling of the two sides against each other. Brassieres, corsets, and snug dresses use the very small hook and eye closure while the larger ones are ideal for jackets, cloaks, or shirts.
Buttons
Buttons are also another type of closure. Used in fashion design and clothing, buttons are those small disc-shaped objects that are usually attached to a part of a clothing to secure an opening. Buttons are manufactured in a broad variety of materials that include natural materials like wood, vegetable ivory, shells, bones, or horns. There are also some made from synthetic materials such as plastic, metal, glass or celluloid.
In any dressmaking or sewing, keep closures handy. Remember that these are very important things in every sewing activity.

The importance of patterns in sewing
In sewing, a pattern is very important because it gives you the initial outline of the dress or any item you are trying to create. Aside from providing you the outline, patterns also give you an idea how much fabric you need and the ideal kind of the fabric for the project.

Seasoned experts agree that in order to get the right patterns for sewing, the sewer must first decide what kind of item he or she wishes to make and then the list of measurements needed. Compared to tablemats or curtains, patterns are more valuable when it comes to clothing because the "wear ability" of the clothes will depend on the patterns chosen.

Choosing the patterns for clothing needs

A specific pattern for clothing will greatly depend on who is going to wear it. Today, because more and more people are into sewing, there are many sources of patterns available. You can get them from craft stores or specialty sewing stores where you bought the materials like fabric, thread, and the like for your project. Aside from buying these patterns at stores, you can also get them from various magazines that feature basic sewing or in online sewing sites.

When it comes to patterns in clothing, always consider the standard measurements used by the sewing industry to be able to get accurate results. It is advisable to make use of the measurement charts that can be found in various pattern books because these are based on the standard measurements used by almost all sewers.

The major considerations when it comes to sewing patterns are the accurate measurements of the person's bust/chest, waist, hips, and back length for blouses and tops and the measurements of the crotch area, butt area, and leg length for skirts and pants.

When taking measurements from these key body parts, always make sure that they are taken with undergarments on using a tape measure that is held just enough to get the correct size and adjustments. It is always best if two people will work on taking these measurements so lesser errors will be committed. If you are the one who is taking the measurements, ask the person to stand up in his or her usual posture to get accurate clothing measurements.

When taking bust or chest measurements, place the tape measure around the person's body just across the chest or breasts and slide it under his or her arms across the back. For the waist, always get the person's natural waistline by placing a string around the waist before using the tape measure. While the measurement of the hips is usually taken below the waist, the back length's measurement is taken from the bone that is most prominent in the back of the person's neck.

Once you get all the measurements correctly, you can proceed to using the right pattern for the person who will wear the clothes and you may proceed to the sewing process.

Knowing the Different Techniques of Binding a Seam

After you're done with your sewing projects, don't forget to bind the seams. Binding a seam is very important for a number of reasons, the most important of which is to enclose and secure raw edges or seams.

Securing seams or raw edges isn't only for aesthetic reasons but most importantly to protect the fabric from unraveling when washed. Additionally, binding a seam also adds class to your sewing projects.

There are basically three approaches for binding a seam. These include piping, French binding, and bias binding. But before you start to bind a seam, make sure to loosely stitch the raw edges of the seam close to its edge so that the fabric stabilizes. This method is commonly called stay stitching.
Single-fold Binding or Bias Binding
This is the most basic approach of seam binding. With this method, strips of fabrics are cut onto the bias, meaning diagonally, with a width four times more than the width of the raw edges from the finished project. The edges are then carefully folded inward where it will meet the crease that has just been made. Make sure to press them flat once again.

After pressing, a long piece of fabric is left with four similar sections. Place the binding strip to cover the seam and then securely sew it in place. You can machine stitch the strip to keep it in place, or hand stitch it with the use of a slip stitch, depending on your sewing project.
Double-Fold Binding or French Binding
This type of binding approach requires a binding strip six times wider than your preferred finish width. The binding strip is folded in two, lengthwise. The finished sides of the project should face out before pressing it flat. Once done, the bias method follows. This type of binding seams is basically adding extra layers of fabric to the binding strips to effectively add durability and strength.
Piping
This is a approach of binding a seam for decorative reasons. There are now ready made piping strips that can be bought at sewing shops. This allows you to simply sew it to the edges or the seams of the finished sewing product. Or if you want to have a more creative approach, you can try making a piping of your own.

To make this, simply follow the bias or the French methods of binding a seam. In the center of the crease, place a cord of piping. You can then affix your custom-made piping to your sewing projects. Remember when stitching the piping on your final product, it has to be done closer to the cord. This is to make sure that the cord is secured snugly in place.

Aside from the mentioned approaches, there are also other seam finishes that are ideal for specific fabrics. Keep in mind that fabrics are generally prone to fraying. On the other hand, there are also some fabrics that no longer require a seam finish like the Polar Fleece. But in general, a seam finish provides a more tamed look on the bulk of the seam.

Below are some other types of seam finishes that you can consider for some of your sewing projects.
The Clean Finish Seam Finish
This is a very simple straight stitching to make a seam finish. This finish is just a simple line of stitch done on top of the original stitching.
The Zigzag Seam Finish
This type of seam finish is just a simple zigzag stitch done on the raw edges of the seam allowance. This is applicable to almost any seam to secure the raw edges and prevent the fabric from fraying. You may want to keep a clean seam using the zigzag seam finish. It is important then to vary the stitch length and the stitch width. This can also prevent some extra bulk of the seam which isn't good to look at if not neatly done.

Keep in mind that seam finishes play an important role in the overall appearance of your sewing project. If you are having a hard time finishing seams in the most proper manner, there are manuals available where you can obtain the right methods of seam finishing.

To Sleeve or Not to Sleeve: Understanding the Different Types and Styles of Sleeves

Making sleeves is perhaps one of the most daunting parts that designers and dressmakers face. The problem in making sleeves, regardless of style and size, is that there are always some uncertainties in the finished product.

The first uncertainty is the length. Then there is determining the right upper arm width. Another is the arms depth? How much space is needed to allow the wearer to move his arms freely? Or how shallow should the armhole be, without binding the shoulder of the wearer? To answer the questions, it is important to be acquainted with the basic types of sleeves that are used for clothing, along with the right measurements to take.

COMMON STYLES OF SLEEVES
The Drop-Shoulder Style
This type of sleeve is the simplest among all the sleeve styles. Most of the garments with a drop-shoulder-style sleeve is a simple rectangle with very little shaping. The rectangle width of the body fully extends past the shoulder line of the wearer. In fact, if the drop shoulder body has no added sleeves, the shoulder portion of this garment extends into cap sleeves. Additionally, the arms of the garment aren't shaped.

The sleeves of the drop-shoulder styles are based on a very simple rectangle which tapers towards the wrist of the garment. The sleeves are normally shorter than the arms of the actual wearer. The upper edges of the sleeves don't reach the shoulders. The length of the sleeves upper edges are two times more than the depth of the arms. Once these are assembled, the sleeves fully extend from the body at a right angle.
Pros
Since the style closely goes with the arm position of the wearer, the set-in sleeves effectively overcome the disadvantages of drop shoulders. There are no possibilities of bunching in the underarm area, which provides wearers with a more comfortable fit. And instead of horizontal seams, the vertical arms seams of this style of sleeve promote a slimmer look to the wearer.
Cons
The shape of the sleeve caps make the sleeves more labor-intensive to calculate. It is also more difficult to sew the whole garment body.
Variations
For a better fit, the set-in sleeves can be combined with gussets, or shoulder straps for a more decorative look.
Raglan
This style is mostly associated with a sporty or a casual look. Instead of placing an arm seam on the shoulder, seams of raglan sleeves slant from the underarm towards the neckline. This results that the front, the back and the sleeves are all tapered towards the neck. The upper edges of raglan sleeves can also be substantial parts of the neckline, depending on the design of the garment. The sleeves may also be shaped so that it will blend in with the curves found on the front and the back of the neckline.
Pros
Lines on the raglan sleeves are more stylish than those of the drop shoulder. This sleeve style also has no arms seams that align with the shoulder joint, making it a forgiving shoulder-fit. Additionally, raglan sleeves are very easy to calculate and don't take much time.
Cons
Fabric bunching under the arms is possible if the raglan sleeves fully extend from the garment body at an angle of ninety degrees. This is also unsustainable especially on close-fitting garments.
Variations
Just like the drop shoulder, the raglan sleeves can be designed with shoulder straps. This is where the raglan portions of the sleeves end and its straps extend from the raglan portion towards the neck.
Dolman
This is the type of sleeve that is formed integrally with the body with only two seams on the underarm. Greater amount of space is provided under the arms for easy movement. Generally, the garment is considered very loose fitting, even if its forearms sleeves are tight.
Pros
Garments with dolman sleeves are ideal for a cuff-to-cuff sweater. They also provide continuity of patterns from the sleeves down to the body.
Cons
Particularly in knitting, they are efficient especially if you prefer knitting the back and the front part separately as this will create a seam to the neck which is an undesirable sight when finished.
Variations
The batwing is the most common variation based from the dolman style. It is a very dramatic approach and is suitable for fabrics that drape and fold well.

It is important that you know about the different styles of sleeves because they can greatly improve the look of your sewing projects.

Basic Assembly Methods of Pockets
There are varied methods for adding pockets to an item or a garment. Generally, there are two very common types of pockets: the side seam pockets and the front pockets.

Pockets basically have a back and a front part. If pockets are directly sewn onto the front of the shirt, the inside of the pocket is the shirt front. If pockets are sewn on the side seam of a skirt, the front part is the front of the pocket, while its back is created by sewing in a pocket.

The upper edges of pockets are normally made stronger by adding facings and interfacings. These are very important especially if the pockets are on the back of pants or even on shirts. Pockets may also be added with lining to provide a better finish.

SIDE SEAM POCKETS
The first thing that you might want to consider with side seam pockets is to add extensions. If you wish to have an additional side seam pocket, try drawing an extension on sides of the skirt. The extensions will serve as the facings for the pockets. The hand of the user should comfortably extend so make sure to measure half an inch on the extension.

Before you decide what shape of pockets you want to add, it is helpful that you draw the design that you have in mind. The pockets should be large enough for the hands to nicely fit and they should come about two inches below and above the extensions.

In reinforcing and clipping facings, start by stitching on all the side of the corners of the facings. Clip the facings from the edge but make sure not to cut your stitching. Press this facing under. To reinforce it, sew a box along its edges.

Follow the procedure by stitching the pocket on the skirt front. The right part of the pocket should be stitched on the wrong side of the skirt front, just around the curved edge. Once done, stitch the skirt front to the skirt back. Make sure you do it on the side seams. Be careful not to allow the pocket edge to be sewn into the seam. Your pocket now is residing just within the side seam. The skirt front, however, shows the stitching of the pockets.
SHIRT TYPE POCKETS
Start making shirt type pockets by cutting rectangular pieces. Decide the size that you want on your pocket but make sure to add half an inch of extra fabric for the upper hem. Make room also for seam allowances on the three remaining sides. Follow it up by ironing under the three lower edges, as well as the hem. Topstitch the upper hem into place after you turn the pocket to the right side.

Place the pocket on the front of the shirt and make sure that its right side up. Stitch it onto the shirt around the three lower sides. Be sure to leave the top pocket open. To make it more durable, enhance the pocket with some reinforcement stitching.
What patch pockets are
Patch pockets are commonly used not only for decorations but also for functions on jackets, blouses and shirts. In preparing patch pockets, cut the pockets as instructed by the pattern. These types of pockets are generally cut on the lengthwise grain. But still, the bias-cut pocket can still be used on plaid and striped fabrics to prevent it from matching with the fabric design.

Interfacing helps retain the pockets shape. If you go for a fusible interfacing, before you fuse it in place, cut it to the finished pocket size. If you consider the sew-in interfacing, cut them by the pocket patterns, stay-stitch them in place before finally trimming them close to the stay stitching. You need not interface the hem, though.

TIP: Pocket templates can be cut from cardboard and are effectively used as guides when pressing pockets into the proper shapes. Lay your template on the wrong side of the pocket before pressing the seam allowance in place over your template.

Assembling pockets can be confusing especially if you don't have the right knowledge. Although difficult, the tasks can be made easy if you take time to go over the basic steps needed for pocket assembly.

Dressing up your Sewing Projects with Embellishments
Your sewing projects aren't complete without adding embellishments. Embellishments are things that improve the appearance of something. Some embellishments serve no functional purpose at all but still, they can be great additions to your garments.

Here are the different types of embellishments that can go well with your sewing projects.
Appliqué
In French, this term means applied. This is a very old needlework technique where pieces of embroidery and fabric, or some other materials are sewn together to crease varied designs. This type of embellishment is suitable for works that need to be seen from afar like banner-making. On the other hand, reverse appliqué is when layers of fabric are meticulously stitched together, and its upper layers are cut away. The lower layers are the ones formed with a design. Some examples of a reverse appliqué technique is San Blas or Mola.
Embroidery
This is the art of decorating fabric and other materials with designs. The designs are stitched using a needle with strands of thread or yarn. Also, embroidery may incorporate some other materials like metal strips, sequins, quills, bead, and pearls. Traditionally, embroidery was done by hand but just recently, sewing machines can now be used in creating machine embroidery.

There are generally four types of embroidery which are categorized according to its use of the foundation fabric. These include the following:

Free embroidery
This is the type wherein the designs are applied regardless of the weave on the underlying fabric. Popular examples of this type are traditional Chinese embroidery and crewel.
Counted-Thread Embroidery
The patterns of this type of embroidery are done by creating stitches in the foundation fabric in which the number of threads are already pre-determined. This is easy to work on even-weave foundation fabrics like aida cloth, embroidery canvas, and linen and cotton fabrics.
Surface Embroidery
This is the type of embroidery where the patterns are done on top of the foundation fabric. This normally uses laid threads and decorative stitches. This type of embroidery includes most free embroideries and some other forms of counter-thread embroidery like cross-stitch.
Canvas Work
In this type of embroidery, the foundation fabric is completely covered because of the threads that are securely stitched thru the fabric to create dense patterns. Canvas work is generally not counted-thread embroidery. Instead, they are hand painted and printed canvases where the images are meant to serve as color guides.
Lace
This is an openwork fabric normally patterned with open holes. This can either be made by hand or by machine. By removing threads or cloth from fabric previously woven, holes are formed. Making lace is considered an ancient craft. Lace used to be made out of linen, gold, silk or silver thread but the most common laces today are made with cotton threads. Additionally, manufactured laces are made of synthetic fiber.
Beads
Beads are those small decorative objects that are pierced for stringing or threading. These colorful sewing embellishments range in varied sizes and the most common materials are stone, plastic, and glass. However, there are also some made from horn, bone, metal, ivory, pearls, shells, gemstones, corals, metal clay, polymer clay, resin, wood, fiber, paper, ceramic, seeds, and synthetic materials.
Batik
This type of embellishment comes from an Indonesian word that refers to a wax-resist dyeing method used in textile. The procedure in making batik starts by melting a wax and then applying it to the cloth before finally dipped in dye. Batik is a very good embellishment since it is very colorful and attractive.
Pins/Brooches
Brooches are types of pins used as decorative items attached to garments. They are usually made of metal, normally gold or silver and sometimes even bronze.

Aside from the mentioned embellishments that provide no functional purposes, there are other garment add-ons that have practical functions.
Buttons
These are those small disc-shape objects that are primarily used to attach a piece of clothing to secure an opening. Most buttons today are manufactured in varied colors and shapes, which make them great for ornamentation.
Buckles
These are clasps that are used to fasten two things together. A concrete example is the traditional belt. Before zippers were introduced, buckles were also used to fasten shoes and boots. Buckles manufactured these days come in sleek and stylish designs, which also make them great embellishments.

Choose the right embellishments for your garments. With the many choices available, you can easily enhance the over-all look of your sewing projects in no time.

Inside Out: The Importance of Linings

Linings are very important parts of a garment. They are the responsible for enhancing and maintaining the flow, the drape and the form of the outer fabric. Linings also facilitate comfortable and smooth garment donning and doffing.

During warm seasons, linings help in preventing hot and moist interior discomfort common with unlined garments. They provide a cooler but damp fabric adhesion to the skin to keep the wearer comfortable even during very hot seasons.

Since linings, interlinings, as well as under-linings all have different fabrics added to the interior of a garment, it is essential that you know the purpose of these garment additions.

Linings are assembled separately, treating them as if they were second garments. Placed inside the wrong side of the garment before securely attaching them on the edges, linings provide garments with a smooth inside finish. Most common garments that have linings include capes, coats, jackets, and other forms of outer garments.

In other garments, linings not only add comfort but a feeling of luxury as well. If the fabric of the garment is rough to the touch, linings can provide a smoother feel. In pants or straight skirts, linings prevent bagginess at the knees and seat. Skirts are normally lined just below the seat, enough to prevent wrinkling and stretching. If the lining is made smaller than the garment, it can help preserve the shape of the garment. But since the lining is caught in the seams, it isn't enough to contribute to the shaping of the garment itself.
Lining Fabrics
The fabrics used for linings may be custom made for this purpose or not. You can find special fabrics in most lining sections of your favorite fabric store. Likewise, dress fabrics such as taffeta, silk-crepe, tricot, and satin are also beautiful options for linings. But these fabrics have to be soft, pliable and light enough in weight not to hinder the hang of the garment fabric. Also, fibers may also vary in construction and content. China soft is excellent to line garments that are soft and dresses; cotton blends are ideal for casual wear as well.

In ensembles, a jacket or a coat is normally lined with fabrics used for the blouse to show a more coordinated effect. But if the fabric is too expensive and doesn't easily slip on and off, a lining fabric is enough to line the sleeves.

For winter coats and winter jackets, the most common linings are fake furs. But the styles of the coat have to be of loose fit to provide more room for the fake fur. To cut the lining pieces, remove the center back pleat that is normally provided in regular coat linings. To prevent getting bulky lining fabrics are good enough for sleeves.

If you wish to add linings that aren't provided in the pattern, choose the pattern pieces that will be lined. For jackets and fronts with front facing, its front linings should be smaller than its pattern piece. Use these pattern pieces in figuring the yardage. Be sure to take into account the lining fabrics width.
What is Quick-lining?
In some patterns, linings are cut from specific lining patterns before seamed securely to the edges of the garments facings. This involves a quick-lining method. To do this, simply cut the linings from the overall garment pattern pieces. Layer and sew the linings and the facings together and treat them as one unit. Once done, the weight of the lining will help hold the facings in place.

Quick lining has a lot of advantages. You don't need to choose, cut or fuse an interfacing not unless you prefer the waistband of your skirt extra-firm. The linings are also easy to assemble if the facing/lining seams are kept simple. The seams prevent the facings from rolling out of position. Additionally, since the facings are stitched on top of the linings, they help in preventing the seams from showing. Also, all the major seams in sleeveless garments are finished on a sewing machine, include the armholes.

In making garments, it not only calls for stylish designs but also seeks to provide the wearer a comfortable fit. Linings are perfect add-ons to meet these demands.

Starting Simple: Learning the Basics

Any sewer should be aware of the fact that sketching is an important ability to have. The sketching generally serves as the road map for all the phases of garment designing, from the fabric and color selection to the actual construction.

Being a sewer requires you to at least have a basic background about sketching. If you can sketch, you can easily record fashions you see on streets, or work out varied design details and then communicate these ideas to fellow sewers. To learn more on how to make precise, professional-looking and stylish drawings, here are some few tips that you can learn from.
Fashion Illustrations and Flat Schematics
Take a closer look at those ordinary pattern envelopes. You can see two varied but equally essential types of sketches at work. On the back part of the envelope, a schematic drawing shows the garments flat outline, along with the styles and the construction details.

On the other hand, the more appealing fashion illustrations are found on the front part of the envelope. This side clearly shows the ensemble on a body while providing illusions of movements and three dimensional forms.
Flat Schematic
To obtain the perfect symmetry, remember these three basic tips: draw half, fold, and trace. Start by placing tracing paper on top of your paper and then mark a center part of the front line. On the left part, draw only the garment. Fold the tracing paper, making sure that it goes along the center front line. Trace your markings to the right side; unfold it before adding asymmetrical details like zippers.
Illustrations made Easy
When you begin fashion rendering, start with a photograph or an illustration that has a silhouette the same as the garment that you wish to sketch. If possible, have the photograph or illustrations reduced or enlarged if desired.
Tracing a Photo
From your desired image, trace the outline and the major lines of the clothing and the figure on a sheet of tracing paper. Make sure you use quick pencil strokes. You can try sketching the facial features if desired.
Drawing your Design
From your traced figure, lay another piece of tracing paper on top of it. Start drawing your own design, carefully following the original outline where appropriate. After making the outline, fill in the remaining illustrations by correctly retracing the minor details like the head and the feet, alongside the details from the first tracing. Use pencil lines to darken the sketch.
Coloring and Notating
Lay yet another tracing paper on top of your last drawing. With a fine-point marker, watchfully trace the pencil lines. You can try adding colors, texture or shadows if desired. Annotate your sketch before labeling details.
The Trace and Fill Approach
The very basic of fashion sketching are very simple: you slide an existing figure of a drawing or a picture underneath a blank sheet of paper and then draw the garments so it will fit the outlines of the figure. The outcome of the drawing will be determined by the genre of the figure drawn.

Use a corquis for flat garment schematic. Corquis is the term sewers use that means the schematic figure illustration of the standard body proportion. For dimensional fashion drawings, use varied fashion photographs or illustrations. You can obtain them mostly from fashion magazines or pattern envelopes. Make these illustrations as your basis.

In fashion sketching, it's not only the right creative idea that plays an important part. Your sketching tools also matter. Fashion sketching requires tracing papers, pencils, erasers, not too opaque drawing papers, markers and colored pencils. Sketching is quite difficult at first, especially if you have never sketched anything in your life.

Try to stay focused. Remember that your goal here is to develop and communicate your thoughts accurately and clearly. Don't worry about making perfect sketches since you are still a beginner. Instead, think of sketching as your first major step to designing and making the garments that you have dreamed of all along.

Fashion sketching isn't that hard to learn at all if you have the will to learn and the passion for fashion. Remember that thru sketching, you can start creating garments from your own ideas and thoughts.

Wondering About Your Windows? Design Your Curtains and Drapes The Way You Like!

I think everyone would agree that the design of your curtains or drapes can change the mood of the entire room. We spend countless hours pondering on how to design them, or even go to the point of window shopping in malls to get the right imagination to hit you.

Well, look no further. The answer to your window problems can be found in home decorating magazines that you can find anywhere. Inside is a treasure throve of amazing window designs, as well as detailed descriptions on how to make them.
Get the right design for your window
First step for a window makeover is to select a covering that would look good on it. You need to make sure that your design won't make your window look slapdash but instead make a lasting impression on anyone who is in the room.

You need to decide whether a floor-length cover or a hanging piece will be perfect for your window. A floor-length inspires a formal air, while a hanging curtain gives off a light and casual ambience.

Next stop will be the color of your choice. Even if your chosen design from a home decor magazine suits your taste yet the color clashes horribly with the room color, then you are in a dilemma. Be creative in your task since most designs aren't color dependent, so you have the freedom to pick out the best color to suit your room best.
Your creativity is your best design tool
Let's take your living room for example, if your window is overlooking a garden or somewhere with a broad expanse, then a Jacquard drape would be perfect. Its contemporary scroll design will add a custom archaic look to your room; and since a decorative rod is used to hang the drape, you won't have any problems putting it up, not to mention that it adds to the details.

If you are more interested in light curtains instead of the heavy Jacquards, then a Monaco curtain will be perfect for you. The drapes are sewn with pockets for a rod and are perfect for the living room or bedrooms. Considering the nature of the design, this valance drapes into swags near the hem, and a tieback will set the mood just right.
Give your window some accessories
Accessorizing isn't only for people but also for curtains as well. A few laces and voiles here and there could dramatically accentuate your curtains looks immediately.

Choosing the right fabric is the heart and soul of your curtains. Cotton and polyester are the most common fabrics used in curtains and are quite cheap. If you have your eyes set on a more luxurious design; then silk or satin would be perfect.

Aside from the fabric, you can also change the pattern for your curtains; you can settle for embroidered with assorted designs, stripes for a 2 color bargains, or even a floral pattern if you are into nature.
Simple tips to get started!
Now that you have the design firmly in mind, as well as the color and fabrics, you can now get started with creating your very first curtain. First stop is to measure your window; if aiming for a hanging curtain then you can just measure the length and width of your window, just make sure that you give an extra 4" at the bottom and sides for your hem and around 3" for you rod pocket.

If you are aiming for a floor-length window, then you need to measure all the way down to the floor; just make sure that you lessen around 3" so that your curtain won't spread ungainly on the floor when it's finished.

A very useful tip is to wash and dry your fabric first before attempting to cut or measure, this will allow the fabric to shrink. Most fabrics shrink, and we don't want your finished product to shrink on the first wash. It's also recommended that you iron out your fabric to make sure that you get a good straight surface to work with to minimize, or eliminate, errors.

All in all, designing and creating window coverings is quite easy. Paying attention to details and determination coupled with a healthy dose of sweating will turn into a curtain that many will drool over.

Slip Into Something New With Slipcovers, Make Your Own And Do It Right!

Making your own slipcovers for your chairs and couches is a very inexpensive way of changing the overall look of your furniture for the better. Not only will it give you enough elbow room when it comes to design, the savings that you'll get will definitely add up.
Slipcover basics
Initially, making slipcovers for your couch, loveseat, recliners and dining chairs is relatively easy and at the same time complicated. Choosing the fabrics and designs for them is the easy part, measuring and cutting the layout of the patterns from your fabric is something else.

One very useful tip is choosing the fabric after measuring your chair and after you've finished cutting the layout. This is where your savings will add up. If you know the exact measurements, getting the right size of the fabric will be a breeze, and you won't need to waste any of it during the cutting process.
Measuring tips
Since taking all the measurements of your couch is a painstaking task and might consume more time than putting it all together, this is the most crucial part in making your very own slipcover - one wrong slip and you might end up wasting a lot of fabric.

Here are some very useful tips to make sure that you get it right the first time around:

1. Assign a letter for every curve of your chair. Paying attention to the details could simplify your workload rather than complicate it. Example: for an armchair, its parts include the back rest (both front and back), arm rest (both inside, outside and front), and the front gusset. Assign a letter for the length and width of each part.

2. Measure your chair carefully. This is the most important step in making your slipcover. A ruler would be useless for this task since most chairs are padded down and a ruler could be ill-suited for all the curves. Use a measuring tape instead. Write all the measurements down on a piece of paper.

3. Using your measuring tape and chalk, try to draw the measurements on a large piece of paper which will serve as your pattern when you transferring the measurements on to the fabric. You may need to keep a close eye on your chair to get it right. For this part, you need not rush. Take your time and make sure that you get all the measurements and curves right.

4. After you have successfully made the layout that will serve as a pattern for your fabric, you may now proceed to cutting. Compare each part of the pattern to the chair. This will ensure your accuracy.

Once all the measurements are done, and the patterns are all accounted for, you can now proceed to choosing the perfect fabric and design for your chair or sofa.
Fabric and design
The fabric that you plan to use for you slipcover must accentuate the entire ambience of your room. Various fabrics have their own unique designs and are readily available on the market today. Some of these fabrics include solids, prints, plush, toile, stripes and plaids.

You need to consider the design of the fabric used before you start cutting it up for your slipcovers. Those with patterns like stripes and plaids needs to be well thought out since you don't want to look at your chair and get a feel of slapdash or a messy design. You need to make sure that the pattern will fit the overall design of both the slipcover and the sofa.

Lay the fabric on the sofa to determine the location of the pattern on the furniture. Once you think the pattern is in the right place, you can now mark down the location and proceed with cutting the fabric using the pattern that you made earlier.

From reading all the tips above, you might think that making your own slipcover is impossible. To be successful in this endeavor, you need a lot of patience, determination and hard work; and the end result will definitely take your breath away.

Organizing Your Sewing Space - How To Set Up Your Very Own Sewing Studio

If you are planning to take up sewing as a hobby or a full-time career then you need to set up your very own space to accommodate your sewing needs and privacy. Your special place could be your kitchen or a separate room depending on your need for privacy and available space.

Having all your sewing needs laid out in a quiet corner of your house is not only appealing, but also convenient.
Choosing a quiet corner in your home
Most of us who are into sewing jump from one place to another depending on what we need. We might stay a while in the kitchen while we measure or cut fabrics, adjourn to the living room when we need a comfortable place to sew, and go back to the kitchen in case we need to iron out the fabric - quite tiring especially if you're in a big house.
When choosing a room for your sewing activity, you need to make sure that it's big enough to accommodate you and your sewing materials. It must have enough storage space like cabinets and drawers for your fabrics, threads, needles and ribbons. It's also a necessity to have a long table accessible on all sides for measuring and cutting; a comfortable chair or couch to sit on if you need to relax; a sewing machine, and finally an ironing board.

Considering all these, you definitely will need a bigger room for a fully-operational sewing studio.

Basic sewing studio layout and what's in it!
When planning for a room to convert into a sewing studio, you need to take note of one aspect: convenience. You need to make sure that all of your sewing gear and materials are all stored in an organized way.

First off, you need to put the long table in the middle of the room. Since you need plenty of space to move around as you stretch out the fabric, measuring and cutting out patterns.

Once that's settled, you need to install cabinets to store all your fabrics and cloth for your sewing. Drawers with different compartments could be very handy for your ribbons, floss, bobbins, needles, scissors, laces and buttons. You might need multiple drawers for segregation purposes.

Your sewing machine should be placed in an area where you have plenty of light and easy access to all your sewing materials. It was a common practice in olden times to place the sewing machine right under the window, not only would this location give you enough light while you sew, you can readily look out the window when you want to give your eyes a break.

It's also advisable to have pegs placed on the walls to hang things like cloths, dresses, or clothes that you are working on. Not only does this reduce clutter, you won't need to iron them if they get wrinkled.

A man-sized mannequin and a large mirror are both a necessity in a sewing studio. A mannequin allows you to design clothes and dresses with the proper curves that a man/woman; and the mirror is perfect if you want to test out how your designs would look.
Proper sewing studio flooring
Carpets are a big no when it comes to designing your sewing studio. It's a general agreement among sewers that thick carpets are a nuisance rather than a comfort. It has been the case that a lot of things tend to end up on the floor as we sew like needles, pins, buttons, clips, etc. Try looking for a needle in a thick carpet.

Most sewers advise a painted floor, especially dark colored ones like black, dark blue or even green which are convenient and not too expensive to clean.

When planning for your very own sewing studio, you should not rush. Take time to consider how you want your studio to look, and how you want your materials to be arranged. This could save you a lot of time and money, especially if you plan on renovating.

Buying Your First Sewing Machine

You need your own sewing machine if you plan to turn it into a serious hobby or career. Your first sewing machine will determine not only the quality of your work, but also your life as well.

Considering the wide market for sewing machines, you are going to be hard pressed to find the perfect machine for you. Consider asking yourself some questions before setting out on your quest to find the perfect machine.
1) What kind of sewing do you have in mind: clothing, crafts, or just for repairs?
2) Do you have your own sewing room/studio or anywhere there is space?
3) Will you be using the machine for a short period of time, or forever?
After answering all these questions, you will be able to determine the perfect machine for you.
Feel free to shop around
When shopping around for your first sewing machine, it is always advisable to keep an open mind. You need to check and double check various features of every sewing machine that interests you to make sure that it has what you require.

Also, don't limit yourself to popular brands; Singer and Brother are the most widely used brands in the sewing industry, and will be your first option for you sewing needs. Even if it's sound to purchase what is popular, it isn't a necessity; you need to consider the comfort the machine gives to your own specific style.
Famous brands of sewing machines
If you think that looking for a sewing machine is easy then you are in for a big surprise. As you tour various shops, you will find a whole repertoire of sewing machines from compact to table sets. There are a total of 8 manufacturers, and each has their own models and specifications. Here are some of the popular sewing machines on the market today.
Singer, the popular brand for sewing machines.
Singer 7442 Electronic Sewing Machine, this model comes with a variety of features that is quite convenient either for professional or intermediate seamstresses. A full range of utilities includes decorative, quilting, fashion, heirloom, stretch and craft stitches. All of its features are set electronically with auto adjustment features. Basic price for this machine ranges from $170 to $200.

Quantum Futura Sewing and Embroidery Machine is one of the most technologically advanced sewing and embroidery machines on the market today. Its functions can accommodate an assortment of sewing jobs which include repairing clothing to creating garments, and embroideries from handkerchiefs to tablecloths. One of its features is that it can connect to any Windows compatible computer system which allows you to put your designs into reality. Basic price is from $700 - $800.

Singer 120-Stitch Function Sewing Machine 7444, this fully-electronic sewing machine from Singer incorporates push button features to access various functions like 48 to 100 stitch patters. Aside from its durable design, this 16-lb beauty is being sold in many stores for a price of $200.
Brother, a Japanese-brand sewing machine
Considering Japanese ingenuity bundled with current technology, Brother has released countless models of futuristic sewing machines which include convenience, functionality and design.

Brother SE270D, this easy-to-use sewing and embroidery machine is designed to be simple for both professional and amateur sewers. One nifty feature of the SE270D includes the quick-load thread cassette system which automatically threads the needle with amazing speed and accuracy. It has built in functions such as 97 embroidery designs and 98 stitch functions; available on the market for a price of $430 - $450.

Brother LS2125I Multi-Stitch Sewing Machine, this all-purpose sewing machine incorporates a 25 stitch function and an electronic speed control. 4 step buttonhole; flatbed-free arm; built-in blind hem; built-in handle, additional twin needle, Twin color needle; Zigzag and straight satin; auto length and width control. The price range for this product is from $75 to $100.

There are still a lot of models out there on market that might suit your sewing needs; so when purchasing your very first sewing machine, take your time and consider every option that you want.

Should You Buy a Serger: What Can Sergers Do For You!

Aside from the sewing machine that you can buy in any local market, a serger can be a great tool for those into the craft. A serger, or casually termed as an overlock, is quite similar to sewing machines yet very useful for piecing two fabrics together and other functions such as rolled hems, adding cords, attaching laces, sequins, beads and other embellishments are made possible.

Sergers specialize in straight seams and hems, especially those found in tablecloths, clothing and curtains. It lacks the basic intricacy of sewing machines, yet its ability to go over 1000 stitches per minute makes it fast and convenient for a professional seamstress.
What sergers can't do
Sergers are in a category all by themselves and work hand-in-hand with your basic sewing machine. It lacks the intricacy and flexibility of a normal sewing machine, especially when it comes to curve stitching and design/pattern stitches. So before you consider buying a serger, you better make sure you really need one.
Things to consider before buying a serger
Before you consider purchasing a serger for your profession, you need to look into a couple factors that will determine your decision in purchasing one:
1) Ease of use and functionality
2) Cost, since serger units are quite expensive especially with more accessories
3) Type of sewing or stitching used.
Once you have made up your mind regarding the need of a serger in your profession, then its time to go shopping.

Different sergers on the market today
When you are looking for the perfect unit for your serging needs, you might notice that most models are tagged with brands like Singer and Brother. These two sewing machine manufacturing titans hold the title for durability and functionality among others. Listed below are some of the popular models distributed by these two companies, as well as its specifications, functions and price ranges:

Singer QUANTUMLOCK 14T967DC has an automatic self adjusting tension system that is designed for heavy duty serging/overlocking performance. It can accommodate a maximum of 5-thread capability. It has a capability to perform chain-stitches, rolled hems and flat-lock stitches. The price ranges from $550 to $600.

Singer CG-754 has the capability of 4-thread capacity. It is capable of 6-stitches as well as a high-presser foot lifter. It has a built-in rolled hem feature and has a price of $250.

Brother 1034D Serger costs around $240 - $300 and is considered cheap for a serger unit. It has a 2/3/4 thread overlock feature and can go up to 1300 stitches per minute. It can accommodate up to 4 different needles as with the thread used.

Brother 3034D Serger by Brother can accommodate up to 4 threads and can create precise seam finishes with any known fabrics. It has 2 needles which has a total stitching speed of 1300 per minute. It has a snap-on presser foot attachment as well as a built-in foot pressure and is available for a price of $210 -$250.

Brother V61-95-5 is a 6-thread 3-needle high performance serger which costs a huge sum of $2000. This unit has a high speed sewing capability of 7,500 SPM and creates attractive and accurate seams from start to finish. Well known for its capability for not damaging the fabric during sewing, this machine is self-sustaining with built-in cooling and lubricating functions.

Considering the cost of sergers on the market, having one can be considered luxurious, and will definitely add to the professionalism and creativity of your sewing craftsmanship.