Beijing - one of the ancient imperial capitals of the Chinese empire, and today the capital of vibrant modern China - is fast becoming one of the world's top destinations, for business and leisure. This is only expected to accelerate as Beijing will host the 2008 Olympic Games.
Whether you are just passing through for a day or two on a business trip, or spending a week's holiday here, this lens gives you the lowdown on Eating, Drinking, Shopping, Playing and Sleeping in Beijing.
Useful Links
Sites of interest with background information on Beijing
- Wikipedia on Beijing
- Learn about Beijing on Wikipedia. (Not accessible from within Mainland China.)
- Time Out Beijing
- Information on Beijing from the people who produce the Time Out magazine and guides. While you are in Beijing, be sure to pick up a free copy of the local English language edition of Time Out Magazine.
- That's Beijing
- Website of free local English magazine, That's Beijng. A great source for current events, places to go and things to do in Beijing, and an essential pre-trip research stop.
- Concierge.com - Beijing
- Concierge.com is a great source of travel information, with content from Conde Naste Traveller.
- Beijing Trip
- Information on travel and tourism in Beijing, as well as Chinese culture generally.
- The Beijing Page
- A gazillion links on Beijing.
- The Chinese Culture Club, Beijing
- The Chinese Culture Club runs tours, courses and other activities in Beijing - all in English for expats and visitors. Their events provide fascinating insights into various aspects of Chinese culture, which would often not otherwise be accessible to the non-Chinese speaking visitor. Check out their site to see what is coming up.
- Beijing Travel Guide - The New York Times Travel Section
- A travel guide for Beijing from The New York Times and Fodor's.
- Departures - Beijing Black Book
- The lowdown on some of Beijing's best-kept secrets from American Express's departures.com.
Sights - Beijing in One Day
Only one day to see Beijing? Try the following walking tour which takes in the major sights and will give you a good overview of the city:
Start at Qianmen at the south end of Tiananmen Square. Qianmen (or "Front Gate") was the front gate of the old Beijing city walls, and the entrance to the city. Whilst the city walls were demolished in the 1950s to aid traffic flow, the front gate was retained.From Qianmen, walk up Tiananmen Square towards the gigantic portrait of Chairman Mao hanging on Tiananmen Gate, the entrance to the Forbidden City. As you walk through Tiananmen Square, the building in the middle of the square is Mao's Mausoleum, where his embalmed body can still be viewed. On the left of the Square is the Great Hall of the People (China's parliament buidling) and on the right the Museums of History & the Revolutions. The monument in the centre of the square is the Monument to the People's Heroes, a monument to great revolutionaries and martyrs, and ironically also the focal point for the 1989 Tiananmen Protests.
Cross the Avenue of Heavenly Peace via the pedestrian tunnels to emerge by Tiananmen Gate, underneath the Mao portrait and through the gate, and continue walking through the forecourts of the Forbidden City. When you reach the main entrance, buy a ticket and spend your time exploring the former imperial palaces.
Leave through the north exit of the Forbidden City, cross the road and enter Jingshan Park (also known as Coal Hill). Climbing the hill gives great panoramic views over the rooves of the Forbidden City and surroundings.
After exiting again from the south gate of Jingshan Park - it should be approaching late afternoon by now - you could either turn right out of the gate, and head up the road to Beihai Park. Walk around the huge lake, perhaps stopping by the famous "Nine Dragon Screen", and then out the north gate of Beihai Park and across to the Houhai district for dinner and drinks.
Alternatively, turn left out of the south gate of Jingshan Park, and take a longish walk down to the north end of main shopping drag Wangfujing, and then take a stroll down his bustling pedestrianised shopping street, finishing with dinner at Made In China at the Grand Hyatt at the south end of Wangfujing.
Sights - More time to spend?
- The Great Wall. A "must see" during your stay in Beijing, allow a full day for the trip. There are a number of points that you can visit the wall, from Badaling, the nearest and most accessible point but also the most redeveloped and "touristy", to Mutianyu (a bit less crowded than Badaling) or, for the more adventurous, Simatai and Jinshanling, which are much further away (up to 3 hours by car) but also less developed and more authentic. It's worth hiring a cab for the day for the trip - either your hotel can arrange, or you could negotiate with a random cab driver.
- The Summer Palaces. Located in the north-western outskirts of Beijing, Imperial getaways the New Summer Palace (Yiheyuan) and Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan) make a good day trip. The New Summer Palace is set on a huge lake and features the stunning "Long Corridor", while the Old Summer Palace is famous for the ruins of the European-style palaces destroyed by the Western powers during the Opium Wars.
- The Temple of Heaven. The blue-tiled circular rooves of the Temple of Heaven, or Tiantan, are symbolic of Beijing. Try to catch it on a clear-skied day, and enter from the south gate, following the path the emperor would have followed to make his sacrificies for the harvest.
- Yong He Gong (The Lama Temple). The Lama Temple is the centre for Tibetan buddhism in Beijing. The huge statue in the main temple, carved from a single tree, is awe-inspiring. The temple is located handily at Yonghegong station on subway line 2.
- Set aside a day or two for shopping at some of Beijing's many tourist markets and local shopping districts.
- Check out some contemporary Chinese art at some of Beijing's many art galleries. The Courtyard Gallery represents many of China's top contemporary artists - the gallery space itself is in the restautant basement. Red Gate Gallery is located inside the ancient gate tower at Dong Bian Men, one of the few remaining pieces of the old Beijing city walls. A stunning setting for a gallery, and the very friendly staff are always happy to assist. The 798 factory district, once a derelict Russian-designed State-owned factory complex, has been transformed into an arts district comprising numerous galleries, artists' studios, cafes, performance spaces and boutiques. Well worth the cab ride out of town to spend an afternoon exploring.
Eat - Best Restaurants in Jing
- Red Capital Club
- Dinner at the much-acclaimed Red Capital Club makes a great night out. The Red Capital Club serves "Zhongnanhai cuisine" (Zhongnanhai is the office and residential compound for China's top government leaders). Every item on the menu has its own story, such that reading the menu alone is enough to entertain for an entire evening. The "Retro-China-chic" decor in an old courtyard home setting is stunning, although the food can sometimes disappoint. Bookings essential. (66 Dongsi Jiutiao, Dongcheng District; (+8610) 8401 8886)
- Lan Club
- With an interior designed by renowned French designer Philippe Starck, this hip new restaurant is the latest glittering venue in Beijing. Food is Sichuan style. Also featuring live music in the bar, and a cigar divan. (4/F, Twins Towers, Jianguomenwai Ave, opposite the Silk Market; (+8610) 5109 6012)
- Green Tea House
- Celebrity hangout the Green Tea House is possibly the most pretentious restaurant this end of the Silk Road. Serving elaborate and artistic food with ridiculous names, Green Tea House delights as it infuriates. (South side of Gongti 100 complex, 6 Gongti Xi Lu, Chaoyang District, west gate of Workers Stadium; (+8610) 6552 8310)
- Made In China
- Made In China at the Grand Hyatt has great Northern Chinese cuisine and a bustling open kitchen atmosphere. Some rate the Peking Duck here the best in Beijing. The Beggar's Chicken is also a favourite. Bookings essential. (Grand Hyatt Hotel, Oriental Plaza, corner of Wangfujing and Chang'an Avenue; (+8610) 8518 1234)
- Courtyard
- For contemporary fusion cuisine, one of Beijing's finest restaurants is The Courtyard. "Perched on the moat, overlooking the Forbidden City," the Courtyard is restaurant, cigar divan and also art gallery, exhibiting a variety of contemporary Chinese artists. (95 Donghuamen Avenue; (+8610) 6526 8883)
- MHH
- Previously known as "My Humble House", this restaurant serves contemporary Chinese fare in sleek minimalist surroundings. (Units 1-7, Podium Level W3, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang An Avenue (corner of Chang An Avenue and Wangfujing); (+86 10) 8518 8811)
Eat - Peking Duck
- Made In China (see above) serves the best (albeit priciest) duck in town. Ideal for a Ducking Big Night Out.
- Da Dong Kao Ya is our favourite Peking Duck destination when the luxury of Made In China seems a little over-the-top or beyond budget. The long queues of locals waiting to dine here are a sure sign the duck is good. (East South Side of Chang Hong Bridge, East Third Ring Road, Sanlitun; 6582 2892)
- A compulsory item on the itinerary of all foreign dignitaries visiting China is a Peking Duck meal at the Qianmen branch of the Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant. This is the most famous Peking Duck restaurant in China and one of the oldest, although the original store (built in 1864) has been renovated and extended so many times since then it's hard to spot. The walls are lined with pictures of the dignitaries who have dined here over the years. It must be said however, that the duck here is not as good as at other places. (32 Qianmen Street; 6511 2418 / 6701 1379. Also branches throughout the city.)
- Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant is a favourite of foreigners (both residents and visitors) in Beijing. It seems that the back-alley location, crowded ramshackle rooms, and the steam and smoke of the kitchens all add to a feeling of "authenticity" that people so crave. Sure, the duck here is good and the atmosphere fun. But is it worth queueing in a back alley for an hour? Depends on how much you value your "authenticity" I spose. (11 Beixiangfeng, south of intersection of Zhengyi Road and Qianmendong St; 6705 5578, 6702 5681)
Drink
Nightlife in Beijing is mainly concentrated around the three areas of Houhai, Sanlitun, and Chaoyang Park.
- The sleepy Houhai district began to develop a few years ago when some bars sprung up on the banks of the lakes in this part of "Old Beijing". Although Houhai has since become a bit of a circus (viz the gaudy "Lotus Market" boardwalk on the South-West bank) there are still some good bars and it's hard to beat the lakeside setting, especially on summer evenings. Try the No Name Bar, which is the un-signposted shack right in front of the Vietnamese restaurant Nuage near Yin Ding bridge between the front and back lakes.
Further south along the east bank of the front lake is East Shore Jazz Club. Owned by local sax player Liu Yuan, the club features some great live music and is a favourite hangout for stars from the local music scene.
Not far away, in the back alleys behind the Drum Tower is the very popular Bed, a maze of rooms and courtyards with opium beds to stretch out on. (17 Zhangwang Hutong, off Jiu Gulou Avenue, Dongcheng District) - A lot of bars are located around the West and South gates of Chaoyang Park, although the quality is variable. A favourite is Suzie Wong's at the West Gate of Chaoyang Park, with Chinese decor, good music and a good crowd, while expats favour the cheap drinks and pool tables at Black Sun up the road.
- Sanlitun is a long-established bar zone in one of Beijing's foreign embassy districts. Sanlitun nightlife is concentrated along North Bar Street which can tend to be local and gaudy, but is still entertaining. A far better bet is to head to Sanlitun Back Street, which just off the North Bar Street to the West, and is home to a couple of decent venues. Poachers Inn has a barny, beer-hall ambience and is packed on weekends, while Kai Club around the corner has good music and cheap drinks, and The Tree Bar around the corner again is a cosy pub serving good pizza and Belgian beers. Top Club, in the windowless redbrick Tongli Studios building opposite Poachers, is a slick bar with a rooftop terrace, pleasant in good weather.
Right next to the City Hotel on the corner of Gongti Road North is the infamous Den, a bar and nightclub popular with "vacationing" Mongolian ladies but also good for food at the end of the night/early morning. - For clubbing, Vics and Mix, both at the North Gate of the Workers' Stadium, are popular. Alternatively, check out one of Beijing's "mega-clubs", like Angel and Babyface on the western side of the Worker's Stadium at the Gongti 100 complex, or Tango, to the north of the Second Ring Road opposite the Lama Temple (Yonghegong).
- Meanwhile, for an upmarket drinking location downtown, Red Moon bar at the Grand Hyatt and Centro Bar at the Kerry Center are classy and popular with the after-work crowd. Centro in particular has killer martinis and a decent live jazz band.
Meanwhile, Philippe Starcke's Lan is the hottest new downtown bar (see "Eat" above for details).
Sleep - Top End
- Grand Hyatt
- Located at the Oriental Plaza in the central Wangfujing shopping district, and around 15 minutes walk from Tiananmen Square.
- St Regis
- Favoured by visiting Hollywood celebrities and heads-of-state.
- The Peninsula Palace Beijing
- Part of the famed Peninsula group, the Palace has recently been renovated, and is conveniently located just off the central Wangfujing shopping district.
- China World
- Last choice of the top tier, only go when all the others are full. Although the location at the World Trade Centre in Beijing's central business district is convenient for those doing business nearby.
Sleep - Local Colour
- Red Capital Residence
- If you want somewhere with some local character, a number of hotels have been set up in old courtyard homes. One of the must spectacular is the Red Capital Residence (9 Dong Si Liu Tiao, Dongcheng District; 8403 5308) which follows the retro-China-chic theme of nearby sister restaurant the Red Capital Club.
- Lu Song Yuan Hotel
- A cheaper alternative, the Lu Song Yuan Hotel (22 Banchang Hutong, Kuanjie; 6404 0436) is located in an old courtyard home in of the back-alleys ("hutongs") of Old Beijing, and features period-style furniture in all rooms.
- Bamboo Garden Hotel
- Another old courtyard home converted into a guest house, the Bamboo Garden Hotel is set in a large garden in the midst of the old city.
- Commune By The Great Wall
- The Commune By The Great Wall was originally built by the celebrity couple behind the SOHO China property developers, as a showcase for contemporary architecture. The award-winning villas in the foothills of the Great Wall have now been opened as a boutique hotel, managed by Kempinski. Great for a luxury weekend getaway for a group.
Shopping
- The legendary Silk Market (Xiu Shui Market) is a favourite for silk, clothes, brand names (counterfeit or just fallen off the back of the official "export" truck) and souvenirs. The Silk Market is at Yong An Li subway station.
- Other popular alternatives for clothes and souvenirs include Ya Xiu (Yashow) Market in Sanlitun and Hong Qiao Market (also known as the Pearl Market - bargain-price cultured pearls are available here) which is on the North-East side of the Temple of Heaven.
- For souvenirs and "antiques" of varying degrees of authenticity, standout is colourful Pan Jia Yuan Antique Market (also known among expats as the "Dirt Market" or the "Ghost Market") - open on weekends only, arrive early for the bargains!
- A common stop on the package tour itineraries, Liulichang Antique Street is more expensive and touristy but probably also has more genuine stuff.
- For a taste of modern Chinese consumer culture at its best, take a wander around some of the popular local Beijing shopping districts. Most central is the traditional main shopping strip of Beijing, Wang Fu Jing (now a pedestrianised mall) and parallel Dong Dan. Further west along the number 1 subway line, Xi Dan is popular with Beijings younger generation of shoppers.
- And not that we want to condone anything illegal, but Silk Market, Yashow, and various streetside stores are ideal places to go pirate DVD shopping...
Backpackers' Beijing
Budget travellers also like Huxleys (motto: "shut up, just drink!") in colourful Yandai Xie Street immediately behind Houhai, and Kai Club in Sanlitun off Sanlitun Bar Street for the cheapest drinks in town.
Finally, the catchily-named CCP Beijing Municipal Committee General Office Institutional Guest House is a budget guesthouse in a central location - the quaint courtyard building belies the bureaucratic name. (67 Dong Si Liu Tiao, Dongcheng District; 6401 8823)
Recommended travel guides
Lonely Planet: Beijing City Guide
Lonely Planet guides are widely regarded as the "bible" for travel in China. Their comprehensive Beijing guide will cover the field quite thoroughly.
Amazon Price: $17.99 (as of 05/11/2008)
Lonely Planet Best of Beijing (Lonely Planet Encounter Series)
The condensed version of the Lonely Planet guide, suitable for short stays.
Amazon Price: $10.49 (as of 05/11/2008)
LUXE City Guides: Beijing (Luxe City Guides)
No maps, no tourist sights - just a savy list of the coolest places to sleep, eat, dine and shop.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
The Rough Guide to Beijing, Second Edition
Some people like cats, some people like dogs. Some folks are Lonely Planet people, others are Rough Guide people.
Amazon Price: $12.76 (as of 05/11/2008)
Lonely Planet Beijing City Map (Maps & Atlases)
A handy map for touring Beijing. If you already know where you want to go, just carry this in your pocket and lighten your load.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing - History and Accounts
Old Peking: City of the Ruler of the World
Photos and brief writings on historical Beijing.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Wild Grass: Three Portraits of Change in Modern China
Tells the stories of 3 individuals in contemporary China, by a Pulitzer Prize winning journalist.
Amazon Price: $11.16 (as of 05/11/2008)
Foreign Babes in Beijing: Behind the Scenes of a New China
A foreign woman's experiences living in Beijing, including her life as a local TV star.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
The Private Life of Chairman Mao: The Memoirs of Mao's Personal Physician Dr. Li Zhisui
Mao's personal doctor's account of the late Chairman.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Twilight in the Forbidden City
The memoirs of the private tutor to Pu Yi, the Last Emperor of China, in the early 1900s.
Amazon Price: $46.95 (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing in fiction
Lili: A Novel
A young woman's coming of age during the June 1989 Tiananmen Square protests.
Amazon Price: $13.00 (as of 05/11/2008)
The People's Republic of Desire: A Novel (P.S.)
Annie Wang's second novel in English is a "Sex In the City" for modern China, following the stories of hip young girls in today's Beijing.
Amazon Price: $11.16 (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing Doll
A young woman's coming of age in early 21st century Beijing.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Playing for Thrills
One of the few English translations of Beijing "hooligan" literature from the 1980s - young, aimless men hang out and cause trouble.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Rickshaw: The Novel Lo-t'o Hsiang Tzu
A classic novel of the hardships of everyday life in early 20th century Beijing.
Amazon Price: $9.90 (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing in Film
Some movies to watch to get you in the mood for your trip. (Or, some movies to look out for while scouring the pirate DVD stores in Beijing.)
The Last Emperor - Director's Cut
Filmed on location in the Forbidden City, this really is essential pre-trip viewing!
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Farewell My Concubine
The story of a Peking Opera star in pre-Revolutionary China. Starring the late Hong Kong film legend Leslie Cheung, and directed by Chen Kaige.
Amazon Price: $8.99 (as of 05/11/2008)
Moving the Mountain
A documentary on the 1989 Tiananmen protests, focusing on the experiences of a number of students who subsequently fled into exile overseas.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing Bicycle
Award-winning film of life in contemporary Beijing.
Amazon Price: (as of 05/11/2008)
Puccini - Turandot at the Forbidden City of Beijing / Mehta, Casolla, Larin, Frittoli, Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
This spectacular production of the Puccini opera Turandot was staged in the Forbidden City, directed by world-renowned Chinese director Zhang Yimou and conducted by legendary Zubin Mehta.
Amazon Price: $30.99 (as of 05/11/2008)
Beijing Music
Stoke up your iPod for your trip to Beijing!
Rough Guide to the Music of China
A good overview of Chinese music, from the traditional to the present day.
Amazon Price: $14.98 (as of 05/11/2008)
Pedrini: Concert Baroque á la Cité Interdite
Music composed by a Jesuit priest resident in Beijing during the Qing Dynasty, this album alternates traditional Chinese divertimenti with baroque style sonata. Magical. Ideal accompaniment for a stroll through the Forbidden City.
Amazon Price: $16.99 (as of 05/11/2008)
Yellow Banana
Beijing all-girl punk outfit Hang On The Box will blow you away!
Amazon Price: $32.49 (as of 05/11/2008)
Backgrounders - recent articles on Beijing
- The city that ate the world
- London's Observer reports on Beijing's construction frenzy. (October 2005)
- Beijing on a plate
- An article on eating in Beijing by London-based Chinese musician Guo Yue.
- The Olympics Haven't Begun, but the Party Has
- The New York Times (requires free registration) takes a trip to Beijing.
- Members only at 'virility' restaurant
- The menu at Beijing's latest venue for its growing army of gourmets
is eye-watering rather than mouth-watering. - Danwei TV - Big Buildings of Beijing
- A short online video from Danwei.org on Beijing's new major building projects.
- The China Syndrome - NY Times Magzine
- Article on architecture and the building boom in Beijing. (NY Times - free registration required.)
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