Holidays In Greece: So Many Choices, So Little Time

River Voidomatis, Epirus.
I haven't been there yet, but I look forward to walking along its course.
In Greek mythology, Rivers were lesser gods. Spercheios and Acheloos, for instance, were much revered in ancient times. Maidens sometimes visited their banks and river-gods, enchanted by their beauty or other qualities, appeared and seduced them.

Greek mythology is a corpus of stories which can be read (heard) as fairy tales or, more than that, as a cultural relic bearing many layers of historical, sociological, philosophical, artistic, etc data. Mythology is one of the tools used for reconstructing mentally more remote ages, for which historical (written) data are not available.

Time flows, just like a river.
Herakleitos* (Heraclitus) used to say that no one can enter the same river twice - because water is always young, I guess.

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* A 5th century BC philosopher from Ephesos, on the western coasts of Asia Minor.

Photo by stefg74, in Flickr.
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Where would you rather be?
Any place that comes to mind -- is it...

While I was a student, I spent several summers on Ios with friends. We used to say jokingly that the highest tree growing on the island was parsley.
Of course, this is not entirely true - still, it illustrates in a somewhat exaggerated manner the bareness of those otherwise spectacular islands.

I love the Cyclades. I love the sun, the refreshing water, the goats climbing the steep rocky slopes, the occasional well or fountain saving the wayfarer from the heat of the day, the frantic choir of the cicada at high noon, the clear starry nights by the lapping waves.

Greece is defined by sea. Even for one living on the mountains of mainland, shores are but a few hours at the most from any town or village. Of course, in days of old transport was not as easy and, as a result, there must have been some highlanders who would rarely, if ever, set foot on the shores. There is an ancient story illustrating this reality of constant proximity to the sea, that goes as follows:


Poseidon, God of Sea? A fisherman?

Ulysses, hero of the Odyssey, was persecuted by the sea god Poseidon for blinding his son, the Cyclop. During a quest in the Underworld, Odysseus (Ulysses) was instructed by seer Teiresias to search for a place where people would not know what sea was, to stop there and sacrifice to the god. So, he took an oar and went way inland to find, at last, a plowman who thought it was some peculiar kind of spade. Poor Greek hero, warrior king and mariner, stained by sea salt, haunted by the Mighty Sea and its creatures - trying to expiate himself and break free of Poseidon's revenge.


Odysseus and his companions blinding the Cyclop.
Earthware (cylix) from Lakonia, Peloponese (yes, that's Spartan land), 6th century BC.

Sea iodine is good for health. Swimming is one great exercise for the whole body. Fresh fish eaten just a few hours after being fished out of clear waters is highly recommended by all nutritionists. All these and more - culture, entertainment, welcoming people - I can find, if I only go to Piraeus and then ride (??) the Aegean waves to the windy Cyclades islands.

The flip-side: Mountains of Epirus

BUT... (isn't there always a 'but' getting in the way?) - Budget is very tight this year, allowing for no more than a single destination. And I've never been at Epirus, the mountainous region at the North-West of Greece. What could I look for over there? Let's count: Traditional villages of exquisite beauty; natural habitats, endless occasions for hiking and adventure sports, wildlife; mountains diving spectacularly into the sea; maritime towns full of life and local colour; archaeological and historical sites and monuments; and, of course, the usual assortment of delicacies, wines, and all those temptations that add taste to our lives.


The town of Arta is encircled by river Arachthos (Arach-thos, one of those Greek words). This stone bridge was initially constructed during the Hellenistic era (3rd century BC). The bridge was rebuilt in the early 17th century with funds provided by a rich merchant from Arta.
I have also heard of a legend associated with the building of the Arta bridge - works were delayed, because whatever the builders accomplished during the day, it was destroyed every night. Cherchez la femme, bref, the beautiful wife of the chief stone mason had to be sacrifised (built into the foundations, I think) for the construction to stand.
Photo by john houv, in Flickr.

So...