The Best Cookery Book Ever?

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La Technique by Jacques Pépin

If you were only allowed one cookery book, which one would you choose? For myself, I would probably choose La Technique by Jacques Pepin (1976); it would certainly be the last one I'd throw away from my current collection.

Not a recipe book as such - although it does include some recipes - it is a veritable gold mine of cooking technique information and instruction from one of the world's finest living chefs. Still used to this day as a textbook for teaching the fundamentals of French cuisine, it has been described by celebrated chef Jane Grigson as "a masterwork".

Divided into six sections, this is a huge (though not unwieldy) tome. Each technique is described in detail and accompanied by (b&w) photos, ensuring that you can master each step of a process, helping you to acquire skills from the simple to the mind-bogglingly complex.

Here is my review of this classic cookery resource: I have included my honest opinions - whether good or bad - on each of the sections, followed by my conclusion.

Section 1

The Basics

This is where you can learn some of the "tricks of the trade" (a phrase disliked and dismissed by Pepin himself) used by top chefs the world over. The instructions include tips on essential rudimentary skills, such as how to hold knives correctly, forming fruits and vegetables into beautiful shapes, using baking parchment and greaseproof paper, separating eggs and making stock.

For some people, there will be too many fussy preparations in this section that they will rarely use: how often are you going to want to make an "olive rabbit" or "lemon pig", for example? However, it is still a marvellous resource for those odd occasions when you want to produce something a little bit special. It is also the place where you will find many useful techniques - some of which even our mothers knew - that have fallen out of common usage in our modern, convenience-orientated cooking styles.

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Jacques Pépin says ...

"... the greatest drawback to a good performance in the kitchen is an inadequate knowledge of basic techniques."

Section 2

Shellfish and Fish

This section is great for those who love fish, but are nervous about preparing and cooking it. As well as giving step-by-step instruction on how to fillet a trout, prepare a lobster or make your own Gravlax, the recipes and tips in this section also include how to poach salmon to perfection, create a classic Moules Mariniere and form "quenelles of pike".

The downside of this section is that the selection of seafood included is somewhat narrow and unusual: fish is limited to salmon, sole and trout (plus the pike quenelles), while the shellfish encompasses oysters, sea urchins and snails within its delicasies.

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Sample page: Oeufs Mimosa (Stuffed Eggs) 

Cutting Edge Quality!

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Section 3

Vegetables

Here you will learn how to do more things with a potato than you ever thought possible! Again, much of it is more about techniques than actual recipes (the book IS called "La Technique", after all) but it shows you in great detail how to approach food with respect and understanding, giving you an insight into both basic and advanced skills that will allow your own creativity to run riot.

It's difficult to find fault with this section, as most people know how to cook basic vegetables and will therefore find the instructions on how to prepare artichokes, asparagus and celeriac, etc, very useful. My only criticism, perhaps, would be the lack of more "exotic" vegetables that we have now become accustomed to using.

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Jacques Pépin says ...

"Start with simple techniques and work gradually toward more involved and complicated skills ..."

Vote for your "one-and-only" cookery book!

What would be the ONE cookery book you would have in your kitchen, if you were only allowed a single volume? Post it here, along with a brief description (if you wish) about why it earns its place on your shelf.

La Technique by Jacques Pepin

Maybe a little dated, but a great basis from which more...1 point

Escoffier Recipes

It has to be escoffier - even gordon ramsay refers more...1 point

The Good Housekeeping Classic Cookery Book

Taught me to cook when I got married in 1978.0 points

Section 4

Poultry and Meat

This is another section that is hard to criticise: beginning with the preparation and cleaning of poultry, it then shows how to trim, stuff and tie various cuts of meat, followed by pages on how to deal with offal and charcuterie meats, including recipes for pate and terrine. In some ways, this is the most valuable section of the whole book; many modern-day home cooks are out of touch with a lot of traditional cuts of meat and this section provides an education in that area.

If I were forced to make a negative point here, I would say this section could, perhaps, have included some advice on how to choose poultry and cuts of meat - but then, that could be enough to warrant another whole section in itself!

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Rattle Those Pots and Pans!

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Section 5

Carving

Yes, there IS an entire section dedicated to how to carve!

This section is probably of more use to those who entertain on a regular basis, rather than those who just enjoy high quality meals for their own pleasure, but it contains a wealth of information that you would be hard pushed to find all together in one place anywhere else.

The nine carving techniques included are: Gravlax, Poached Salmon; Roast Chicken; Turkey; Saddle of Lamb; Rack of Lamb; Rib Roast; Large Fillet or Tenderloin Steak, and Flank Steak. I guess my criticism here, then, would be the lack of instruction on how to correctly carve pork and duck.

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Jacques Pépin says ...

"You will discover that there is something quite satisfying about conquering dishes that may have frustrated you in the kitchen before."

Section 6

Desserts and Pastry

Finally, we come to my favourite section of the book - desserts and pastry. This part contains the largest collection of actual recipes, and shows quite clearly why the French have such a wonderful reputation for their patisseries.

Covering various types of pastry, cakes, tarts, creams and cookies, it also includes classic desserts such as Crepes Suzettes, Tarte Tatin, Oeufs a la Neige (Floating Islands) and Paris-Brest. Decorative techniques are liberally threaded throughout this section, such as scalloped pastry shells, chocolate "cigarettes" and "angel hair".

With almost 50 techniques, this is perhaps the most in-depth and wide-ranging section of the book, and I can find no fault with it whatsoever!

Picture by Ian Britton: FreeFoto.com

Sweet Temptation

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Val Bonney says ...

In conclusion, La Technique is a wonderful resource book, containing a vast array of information about food and preparing classic French cuisine.

It is invaluable to those wishing to learn the basics of becoming a chef, or those who like to experiment and aspire to creating their own exceptional dishes at home.

It is not for cooks who value speed and simplicity in the kitchen, or those who prefer a straightforward recipe book that requires little in the way of individual creativity.

Jacques Pépin

Early Life and Career
Pépin was born in Bourg-en-Bresse near Lyon, and began cooking in his parents' restaurant, Le Pelican, at the age of 12. He went on to work in Paris, training under Lucien Diat at the Plaza Athénée. He eventually served as a personal chef for Charles de Gaulle and two other French premiers. Upon immigration to the United States in 1959, Pépin turned down a job offer at the Kennedy White House, and instead accepted a position as the director of research and new development for the Howard Johnson's chain of hotels. He stayed at Howard Johnson's for ten years.

Demonstrating interests beyond cooking, Pépin earned a bachelor's degree from the Columbia University School of General Studies in 1970, followed by a Master of Arts in 18th Century French poetry from Columbia in 1972.

Television Star and Author
Pépin has been featured in several highly acclaimed television shows and written eighteen books.

His celebrated La Technique is used to this day as a textbook for teaching the fundamentals of French cuisine. The success of La Technique prompted him to launch a televised version of the book, resulting in an acclaimed 1997 PBS series, The Complete Pépin. Relaunched on PBS ten years after its initial run, the series included a new introduction by Pépin where he stressed that now, more than ever, the secret to being a successful chef and not a mere line cook lies in knowing and using the proper technique.

Pépin was a guest judge on the Bravo television show Top Chef on season five, airing in 2008. He stated that his ideal "final meal" would be roast squab and fresh peas.

Pépin today
Pépin serves as Dean of Special Programs at the French Culinary Institute, part of the new International Culinary Center, in New York City. He is also an active contributor to the Gastronomy department at Boston University, where he teaches an online class on the cuisine and culture of France along with professor Kyri Claflin of Boston University's history department. Pépin also writes a quarterly column for Food & Wine and offers an amateur class each semester based on varied culinary topics.

Pépin currently resides with his wife, Gloria, in Madison, Connecticut.

Awards and Honors
In addition to the Daytime Emmy Award won with Julia Child, Pépin has received two of the French government's highest honors: he is a Chevalier de L'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (1997) and a Chevalier de L'Ordre du Mérite Agricole (1992). In October 2004, he received France's ultimate civilian recognition, the Légion d'honneur.

Source: Wikipedia

See the master at work

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More books by Jacques Pépin

If you're still not sure that this is the one cookery book for you, have a look at some of the other titles from this extraordinary chef.
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Please leave your thoughts on La Technique, Jacques Pepin, or this lens right here - thank you!

  • annmackiemiller Sep 12, 2009 @ 9:55 am | delete
    nice one Val x
  • momto4 Sep 6, 2009 @ 8:04 am | delete
    Wonderful lens! Looks like a great book to have!
  • GonnaFly Aug 31, 2009 @ 11:35 pm | delete
    What a great lens! Well done. I'm not really into fancy cooking - just the basics. Maybe if I learned some techniques .....
  • theraggededge Aug 29, 2009 @ 4:14 pm | delete
    I'm not a great cook nor an enthusiastic one... but this lens shines.
  • bdkz Aug 28, 2009 @ 6:17 pm | delete
    Super book!
  • Sylvestermouse Aug 28, 2009 @ 12:28 pm | delete
    Neat Recommendation! Thanks

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An aspiring novelist, I also enjoy writing short stories, poetry, memoirs, game reviews, internet content ...

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