Best Dog Guide

I'm really very sorry for people who look at my lens everyday,it had been a very long time since I last edit,but please don't leave me!>@<

Snacks For Dogs.. Good or Bad?

Oh those puppy-dog eyes . . .who can resist them? There's a reason that turn of phrase "puppy-dog eyes" is used to describe the very deliberate emotional blackmail specifically tendered by basically anyone with the wherewithal to ride the cute train to anywhere. The phrase most assuredly originates with its namesakes. You know the look -- the slight head tilt, the pleading eyes, perhaps a barely perceptible whimper, just for emphasis.

From your pup, that look can say a lot of things, but often it's a transparent plea for a snack. He seems to be saying, "see how cute I am? Don't I deserve something special?"

So of course you yield to his entreaties, because what kind of a dog owner would you be if you didn't agree wholeheartedly?

Well, believe it or not, rejection would actually make you a very responsible and loving pet owner.

The fact is, digestively-speaking, your dog doesn't need extra snacks to get him through the day. Giving in and handing over a fistful of snacks, only contributes to the (literally) ever-growing issues with obesity that we are seeing in dogs. Obesity causes serious health concerns for dogs, including diabetes mellitus and orthopedic, musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune and reproductive disorders. Fat dogs are more at risk in surgery, more prone to injury, and have more stress on their heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, and joints.

Snacks do have their place, however. They can be a very effective training tool, for example. So, the key component here would be not to eliminate snacks, but to censure them.

It is very important to limit snacks to those of the healthy variety, and to always, always, always, and, without fail, include them in your dog's daily calorie count. You can see the results of snacking yourself (Dare we point out those those "love handles" you've been ignoring?). It is important to remember that those same results will be seen in your dog, even if it is less evident at a glance.

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When is comes to snacking, there are a few basic rules of thumb to follow:
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Snacks should never account for more than 5% of the total daily diet, as measured in calories.
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Avoid fatty snacks, such as the commercial imitation bacon and sausage types, which only serve to upset the digestive system.
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Don't tempt your pet with easily accessible goodies around the house.
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Remember that anything labeled as a snack should be considered supplemental in nature, and should never be used as a substitute for a complete and balanced diet.

Healthy snacks can include fruits and vegetables, and even some homemade "cookies" and biscuits. As a companion to our Delicious Doggy Cuisine, we have compiled such homemade treat recipes for your dog's enjoyment. They are fun to make, and even more fun to serve. Many can be made in "bulk" amounts, so you can store the extras for later use.

So there you have it -- you now have our blessing. When he's giving you that look you just can't resist, go ahead and cave. But, for your dog's health, when you cave, please cave responsibly.

Have you ever heard of a dog living into his late teens? I personally have never met such an age-defying dog but it does happen. Did you know, however, that many veterinarians and scientists today estimate that the life span of a dog should be into the late teens and even into the twenties? It is a wild idea, but many see it as attainable.

Science advances rapidly. It seems as if every day we read of a new advancement, a new wonder-drug, a new technique for improving both the quality and the longevity of our pets and ourselves. These advancements are wonderful. It was only a generation or two ago where simple infections could mean certain death for our pets, where a difficult labor would be the downfall of both mother dog and puppies, where diseases were common due to lack of vaccinations and proper treatments. I applaud science and hope they continue in their march toward a higher quality of life.

With all these dog health improvements and human life spans increasing, why the heck aren't our dogs living up to their true potential life spans? I believe that the factors are many. The main factor, in my opinion, is the nutrition that we give our dogs.

Did you know that the pet food industry is largely unregulated? The pet foods that you pick up at the grocery store are made by companies owned by some of the largest companies in the world. These mega-companies make largely human consumer products and their dog foods and pet foods are manufactured from the by-products that weren't fit for human consumption.

I know, I know. This sounds like a conspiracy theory, but it's true. What kind of things are they able to get away with? Dog foods are made with leftovers. It is well documented that these dog foods are manufactured with dead and rotting carcasses. These are often carcasses from animals that were diseased, sickly, or otherwise not fit for human consumption so they were used in dog food. These carcasses are gathered and sit around a lot rotting and putrefying often for days before it is their turn to make it into the dog food bag. Other non-nutritional products like hooves and horns are also ground up and thrown into the mix. Have you ever wondered what happens to all that grease and oil that fries up those potatoes in fast food joints? Yup, it's true. Dog food companies buy leftover grease by the ton and use it as a coating on dog food that you may be giving your dog. Why would they do that? Well, that grease is pretty tasty (albeit nutritionally abominable) to your dog. The dog food companies know that the unpalatable product they make will be eaten if they cover it with this leftover fat.

That's not all, though. Most commercial dog and cat foods are full of fillers, preservatives, baked in a manner that strips the food of nutrients, and so chemically treated that they resemble Twinkies more than they resemble nutrition for your pet.

What is the solution? Well, there are many but the first step is to switch to a premium food. Feed your dog a food that uses human grade ingredients, doesn't cram the food with fillers, and leaves out the chemical enhancers that give commercial dog food the shelf life of uranium.

Does your dog shake his head excessively? Are his ears red? Is there discharge from the ears? If you answered yes to any of these then he could have Otitis Externa which is simply another name for a dog ear infection.

The dogs ear has 3 parts, the outer ear, the middle ear and the inner ear. Otitis Externa is an infection in the outer ear canal where 90% of ear infections in dogs occur. Dogs are prone to ear infections because of the anatomy of their ears. They have a horizontal and a vertical component to them, so it is hard for anything in there to drain out, like water or debris.

There are several causes of ear infections. The most common cause of ear infections are due to allergies. Some dogs are more prone to allergies than others; therefore they get more ear infections.

Another common cause is sporting dogs that swim. They get water inside their ears, and provided their difficult anatomy, the water in the ears cannot drain out. Therefore, this provides the perfect environment for bacteria and yeast to grow. It is recommenced that if you let your dog play in the water you dry your dog's ears thoroughly afterwards.

If your dog does have an ear infection it is important to properly clean your dog's ears before applying any medication.

To clean your dog's ears, start by placing a few drops of an ear cleanser into the ear and massage the ear to help loosen any debris that is in the ear. Then use a cloth or cotton gauze to whip the dirt out.

After your dog's ears are thoroughly clean, then you can apply your medication. Follow your veterinarian's advice about how much medication to apply to the ear, usually a few drops.

The treatment your veterinarian will prescribe will vary depending on the cause of the ear infection. For yeast infections they prescribe anti-fungals, for bacterial infections they will prescribe antibiotics. Normally treatment is applied directly into the ears, but in severe cases systemic treatment may be needed. This usually means have to give your dog pills orally.

In some dogs with severe ear problems, the veterinarian will usually clip the hair around the ear to help let more air into the ear. In extreme cases your veterinarian may recommend surgery to reconstruct the ear canal to let it drain easier.

Some dog breeds are more prone to ear infections than others, although all dogs can be get them. Dogs with large ears and ears that flop over as well as dogs with a small ear canal can be more susceptible than others. Ear infections in dogs need to be treated by your vet, so the next time you see any symptoms in your dog, take action!

Dogs eating commercial dog food are much more susceptible to ear infection. They are also more susceptible to worm infestation and flea infestation. In fact, your dog will be more susceptible to any kind of parasitic infection.

One of my dogs,Harry,was found dead because of eating poisonous plants,though he had a very healthy diet before,after vomitting several times,it fell dead.We now suspect that Harry ate some poison from the plants next door which was for the rats.And he is a kind of dog like this,I don't wanna show you the poor look he had when he died)..................
p.s something like the left one.....

First, and probably most common, is the jumping dog who greets this way. This can simply be from over-excitement - they "jump for joy." Dog behaviorists also point out that jumping behavior is partly instinctive. Dogs lick each others faces when they want to give a super nice greeting, a likely reflection of lower ranking members of a wolf pack licked the faces of the higher ranking wolves returning from the hunt. In addition, puppies in a den jump over one another for their mother's attention. More specifically, puppies target their mother's face, as a she typically regurgitates food for her litter, another reflection of the wolf pack.

Also, this behavior can be positively reinforced during greeting times, when a jumping dog is met by an excited owner who immediately praises, feeds, walks and/or plays with their pet after getting "jumped," so to speak. Jumping becomes part of this routine. It is rewarded and reinforced.

A second reason for jumping, which is less commonly the case, is that they may be trying to establish dominance. Dogs jump up on each other through what's known as "teeing off." In particular, they rest their head or paw (or both paws) on the shoulder of a dog they want to dominate and exert a bit of downward pressure. Because we walk on two legs, we're more difficult to tee off on, but the motivation is the same. The dog may be trying to express dominant status. In these cases, they often jump up once and more or less lean on you.

If you suspect that the jumping is in fact an expression of dominance, then it is likely that your training will need to involve heavier corrections. This just means you might need to do more than simply ignore the dog while jumping and train them to Sit and Settle before getting your attention. For instance, water squirting, sharp "growling," or even forcing the dog down and holding them down until they are still are all corrections that will short circuit this behavior.

Some dog owners don't mind when their dog jumps up to greet them - it is a most a dramatic and flattering hello to say the least. And the last thing we want to do is convince our pets that they have no reason to be excited to see us. We don't want to take the spring out of their step, so to speak.

But when the same dog jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends, it can be awkward and even dangerous. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look. The good news is a well-trained dog can learn to jump up only when "invited" to do so by its owner. This is fine for playtime for instance. But let's learn the rules before we break them.

During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture reasonably quickly with repetitions. As with any training technique, do not introduce any verbal commands UNTIL the correct behavior has been demonstrated. Only when your dog gets down on his own accord should you start using the "down" command to accompany the behavior. This is how they learn the command, by having the right action to associate it with.

For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training. You'll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves knowing what NOT to do. For example, when you have a problem jumper, don't be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It's instinctive. The same principle is the reason for the majority of cases where dogs pull on leashes: they are encouraged by the force exerted on them.

Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If he starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient, this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take several trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.

One of the absolute best suggestions I give is to always greet a calm dog "at its level." Squat or kneel down, and open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate will impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make sure they earn it first!

Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when the front door opens. It's time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that's the case, which also means more training for you. It is good practice to give a calm and firm "stay Down" warning in advance just before you open the door for a visitor or let them into the house. Your dog will be responding to your sense of composure and assertiveness, and start to truly believe that there is no real reason to freak out every time the door opens.

When you come home to find holes all over your lawn, and you have a dog, there may be a correlation there. But don't bother trying to confront your dog after the fact. Punishment after the fact is widely known as the least effective and potentially most damaging form of dog training on earth. Even if you bring your dog to the spot, hold them by the scruff of the neck, and scold them while you direct their head deep into their handiwork, they won't have any idea what all the fuss is about.

Instead, take a deep breath, and complete your after work wind-down routine. Then, calmly return to the back yard to locate your dog, with the intention of asking a few questions about their habit of excavating your property.

Question One

If you are unable to locate your dog, AND the holes in your lawn are all found right along the bottom of your fence line, then you may not need to ask the first question, which is, "Are you trying to escape?"

If your pet is not "fixed" (neutered or spayed), then they may be entertaining their roaming instinct. They will return, and they may even bring a whole family with them when they do.

Question Two

Another possibility is that your dog is digging to freedom in an attempt to find you.

If your dog is near or even somewhere on your property when you return from a period of absence, they may in fact have separation anxiety issues, which you'll have to treat directly. Once you do, the digging will be an afterthought.

Question Three

If your dog is there, your next question to ask is, "Are you getting too hot back here when I'm away?"

We all know that dogs pant when it's hot. But they also like to burrow, especially when there is not a spot of shade in sight. So you'll need to rule this out as motivating factor for your dog's digging, and make sure they have a place to stay cool.

Lastly, you'll have to ask your dog, "Are you burying your stuff?"

This is simply an old habit that stems from the fact that their ancestors often killed more than they could eat in a sitting. This habit may be tough to break, but try changing the range of treats you leave with your dog when away. For instance, a massive juicy bone may be a great treat for your dog when you're around, but might be something you don't leave with them when you're gone.

You may have to change the dog's access areas, or fence off an area that you'd like to keep for the kid's soccer pitch.

You can also try setting up a dirt area or sandbox where digging is allowed and encouraged. Many dogs are wild about sand, and you can even attract them to the area by burying treats in the sandbox. I've seen this work well.

In the grand scheme of dog obedience problems, however, this should be more of a nuisance than anything.

Often I remind dog owners that it's more than likely their grass will forgive the dog, and that having a healthy and happy pet sometimes comes with the sacrifice of a perfect lawn.

Does your dog keep on chewing the furnitures?

Here are some tips

One of the most important aspects of the dog training process is to stop your dog from chewing objects and household items. Chewing or gnawing is one of the instinctive behaviors of dogs which may cause inconveniences for an individual. As part of the development process and their exploratory nature, dogs may try chewing on furniture, shoes and any other items that come along their way. Sometimes, one may also find dog chewing their paws . However, there are certain techniques and preventive measures which assist in conquering the dog chewing problems .

And to stop your dog's chewing habits

Step-by-step to train your large dog or puppy to stop chewing forever.
The most common reason for the dogs' chewing behavior is teething. In order to subjugate the extreme pain caused by the teething process, dogs may chew anything. Moreover, lack of exercise and boredom are also considered to be the contributing factors for the destructive dog behavior . Additionally, there are psychological reasons such as separation anxiety or insecurity which inflict dogs exhibit the destructive chewing behavior. If not properly checked or regulated on time, dog chewing can become extremely destructive to the animal itself and the surroundings as it may obsessively chew its own limbs or paws or can also chew through doors and destroy furniture, etc.

It is a clear cut sign of boredom!She wants to play.The whining?Maybe she is begging her tail to play with her!

Don't Rub His Nose in It -
Though it may be tempting to rub your dog's nose in his accident or swat him with a rolled up newspaper. Punishing your dog is not really a desired form of dog training. The only thing this will do in the end is teach your dog a serious problem--to become afraid of you. Do you think your dog should come over as you call if he thinks you are simply going to whack him or stick his nose into the carpet?
Be Patient -
Patience is key when you work with your dog or puppy. If you feel like you're at the end of your leash before you've even started, don't attempt to train your dog. Your dog is incredibly smart and will pick up on your emotions.

Also,for effective dog obedience training to work, it is important that you look at lots of things and find out, not only what works for you and your dog but, what feels okay as well. You can always make any method to train your dog better.

The couple Ellen and Don trained their dog-Misty actually for in a day and a half and they made a book-
How I Trained My Dog
In One Evening..." then.the author-Ellen's husband Don didn't want her to publish thet book.
He said it would ruin his reputation.You see, Don thinks he's the world's greatest dog trainer.
But he is actually a retired plumber.

The couple thought Misty was really a lot of fun when we first got her. But all that came to an end when she started peeing on our bed.
And when she let her out to go potty at night, she'd just bolt off into the darkness. Then she had to stand in the cold yelling for her, embarrassed that our neighbors might be listening to her.
She thought Don complained about the barking more than anything - he said it was worse than a baby crying. If someone jogged past the house, Misty barked. When cars drove by, she barked. And for no reason at all, she'd bark even more.

When Ellen let her out to go potty at night, Misty just bolt off into the darkness. Then Ellen had to stand in the cold yelling for it, embarrassed that her neighbors might be listening to her.

But Then their Vet shared something with them,that changed Misty's behavior overnight...

You see, during their last visit Ellen told Don about all the problems Misty was causing and asked if he knew of anything we could do. Of all things, he recommended a book.
What's more, he promised it would turn Misty's behavior completely around in just a few days.

Honestly, I didn't believe him. After all, Don and Ellen already read several obedience books and they were good but they just didn't work for Misty.

But He Insisted Ellen Give This One A Try...

He told me to pick just one secret from this book and see what happened. Ellen figured that she had nothing to lose, so she tried one on page 16 (it was all about how to get your dog to come when it's called).
Ellen started using it at home that evening - and frankly, she wasn't too sure if it would work at first. But by early the next afternoon, she had Misty immediately running to her each time she called it. It was quite an amazing feeling.

Don got so excited that he turned straight to the chapter on how to stop your dog from barking. There, on page 31, he discovered the answer to Misty's problem.

Now to be honest, the tip Don used didn't exactly work overnight - it took about a day and a half. But still, they haven't had a single problem with Misty's barking since.

The Best Part Is, This Book Is Loaded With
78 Other Dog Training Secrets That Work Just As Fast!

ALSO.......

They Have Tips For Almost Every Type Of Dog Problem
You Can Think Of In This Book...

Barking, biting, chewing, running away, pulling on leashes, potty training - you name it and it's in there.
But what I really liked is how these experts list so many different tips for each specific problem. That way you're not stuck with a single do-or-die solution - you have lots to choose from.

Here are just a few examples of what I'm talking about:

The 3 big mistakes almost everyone makes when calling their dogs on page 23

2 words that can immediately stop your dog from chewing and they aren't "stop or "no"

A remarkable product that has even the spunkiest of dogs "healing" in minutes on page 48

The single most important command you can ever teach your dog-see page 42

The huge mistake almost everyone makes with dogs that run away and how you can fix it in less than a day

The easy 4 step system that eliminates potty training accidents and will save you a bundle of time and money if your dog is dirtying your carpets..........

Your dog's digestive system is an impressive, powerful function of the mouth, stomach, small and large intestines, aided by the liver and pancreas.

Digestion begins in the mouth, where saliva lubricates the food and passes it down the esophagus. The dog's teeth -- sharp, jagged, blade-shaped molars -- are designed for gripping, tearing and shredding, and are specifically suited for its digestive capabilities. Other mammals have flat molars, characteristic of grinding.

The dog's jaws, however, are incapable of moving sideways, and instead are hinged. This allows them to open widely and ingest large chunks of meat whole.

Swallowed food passes down the esophagus to the stomach. The stomach of a canine is very acidic with a pH registering as low as 1. Food is well mixed and broken down before contents leave the stomach as chyme.

Chyme is the fluid that passes easily into the small intestine, where the pancreas and liver provide additional digestive enzymes. These enzymes continue protein digestion and also provide carbohydrate and fat digestion. Nutrients are absorbed from the small intestine into the bloodstream.

By the time any food reaches the large intestine, most of the nutrients have been processed and absorbed. It is here that water and electrolytes are assimilated and bacteria can break down undigested fiber. The wastes are then excreted.

Dogs have the ability to consume large quantities of food at one time and can rest between meals. In the wild, this is known as "gorging," which is beneficial in hunting large game. Dogs, like carnivores, can devour large meals after a hunt, and, thanks to the digestive function, can then leisurely wait until the next meal opportunity arises.

In addition to protein and fat, dogs also require a certain percentage of carbohydrate in their diet. But it is a delicate balance, too much protein and the result is disease, too little and the results are similar.

Large amounts of vegetation, grains and fiber are difficult for dogs to process. With their short and simple digestive tracts, they are incapable of fermenting and absorbing these foods like an herbivore would. High-grain, high-fiber diets, then, only result in a much larger stool volume. The canine has a short digestive tract that helps to easily digest animal flesh and fat. The food spends a much longer time in the stomach, which produces a higher amount of hydrochloric acid, and aids in the breakdown of animal proteins, bones and fat.

To keep your dog's gastrointestinal system functioning at its finest, a healthy, well-balanced diet is of the essence. The quality of the diet can be measured in its ease of digestion. Large, malodorous stool is a reliable indicator that something is amiss in the digestive tract -- and the food going into it would be the most likely perpetrator.

Digestive issues are one health problem your dog need never suffer, as the solution is right at your fingertips, and completely within your discretion. Let us help you make your dog's diet your number one priority, beginning today . . . .

Dog Food SECRETS%u2122 teaches you how to effotlessly achieve the perfect balance in your dog's diet. The rewards are numerous and can be enjoyed both by your dog and you. For example: better behavior, better coat, better breath, better teeth, better weight, less gas, less stinky poos, less disease and ultimately a much longer life.

Click here!..."
,so that you would know more details

(Though most main contents have been mentioned^_^)

"dog conspiracy" and SitStayFetch

I've been helping my friend to choose a type of dog when I found this piece of info, hope it will be useful to you all.........

Chihuahua Dog Breed

Dog Group: Toy Group
Class: Toy

Description

The tiny and distinctive-looking Chihuahua is commonly short-haired but is available in the long-haired variety. Coat colors of the Chihuahua include fawn, silver, chestnut, sand and steel, although the coat can be bi-colored. This breed has very unique features, including big, round, dark eyes; disproportionately large ears, which stand erect; a very short muzzle and round head; and a tiny but quite stout body. The breed of chihuahua is the smallest in the world, and you will find some Chihuahuas that are so tiny that they can fit on to your hand in standing position.

Temperament

Lively, affectionate and very loyal, the Chihuahua makes for a good companion. This breed loves company and attention, and is intelligent and responsive. The Chihuahua has been known to have a jealous streak, and may snap when teased, so if there are children in the family they must be taught to be gentle with the dog. The Chihuahua is a playful and robust little breed, with a tremendous amount of courage for its size. This breed can make a good family pet, providing it is given plenty of attention and is treated gently by children in the family - the breed may be best avoided for those with very young children that may not know any better. The Chihuahua can be aggressive with other animals and people without proper socialization, and the breed is also known to be highly protective of their owners.

Height and Weight

The typical height for a Chihuahua is 6-9 inches, with the approximate weight reaching 2-6 pounds. These are tiny dogs, even when adult, and therefore the environment in which they live in should reflect this, as should the way that the dog is handled by the family.

Common Health and Behavioral Problems

The Chihuahua can suffer from respiratory problems, like other short-muzzle breeds, and you may find that he wheezes, snores and becomes out of breath quickly. The eyes, which do tend to protrude a little, are also prone to become dry. Other health risks include collapsing trachea, dislocating kneecaps, stress, rheumatism and oral problems.

Ideal Living Conditions

These dogs are ideal for apartment living as well as living in a house environment. The Chihuahua does not like cold temperatures and should never be kept outside, although he will enjoy going for his walks and exercising. The Chihuahua needs to be warm, so do not shut this breed in a cold are of the house.

Exercise Requirements

The Chihuahua is surprisingly active for its little size, and moderate levels of exercise will keep him fir and happy. Walks and interactive play are ideal for this breed, although you should provide an additional coat for him when going out in colder weather.

Diet and Nutrition

A Chihuahua should be fed three small meals per day, which should be primarily meat-based. Remember that this is a tiny yet energetic breed, so you should resist the temptation to feed your dog too much per serving, but you should also try not to think that it doesn't need regular meals because he is so small. Fresh water, as with all breeds, is vital at all times.

Life Expectancy

With a proper diet, healthy exercise and a well-suited lifestyle, the Chihuahua can live for over fifteen years. This will, of course, be dependant upon his overall health.

Grooming Requirements

Grooming for the short-haired Chihuahua is simple, and this variation of the breed can simply have his coat wiped over with a soft, damp cloth. An occasional brushing will also help to keep his coat in good condition. The long-haired variety required a little more effort and will need a daily brushing with a soft bristle brush. Fairly regular baths can be given to all varieties of this breed (every month or two).

Origin

The Chihuahua originates from Mexico and has been around for about a century. The breed is actually named after the Mexican state where it was first introduced, and there are various legends surrounding this dog. Some think that the Chihuahua was the sacred dog of the Aztecs and others think that the breed may have existed in ancient Egypt. The breed was registered by the American Kennel Club in 1904.

*Thanks to Daniel Steven