Betta Fish Information - An Overview Of Caring For Bettas

Bettas (Betta Splendens) are also commonly known as Siamese Fighting Fish and originated mainly from Thailand. As adults, they can grow up to 3 inches, and their lifespan is generally between 2 - 3 years. They prefer eating live foods, but Bettas will also eat pellets, flakes (occasionally), and frozen food. These fish do well in water with a PH between 6.8 - 7.4 and hardness up to 20 dGH. As is well known, male Bettas cannot be kept together as fighting will occur, and if not separated in time, will fight to the death.

One of the most well-known aspects of Bettas is their ability to breathe air. They do this through what's called a labyrinth organ. They also use their gills to breathe, just as other fish do, but rely mainly on breathing air.

As for the Betta's fins, there's names for those, too. The top fin is a dorsal fin, the tail fin is called a caudal fin, the bottom fin is labeled an anal fin, the two thin fins that hang straight down are known as ventral fins, and, lastly, the two fan-shaped fins close to the fish's head are pectoral fins.

There's quite the variety of tail types around and it might be hard to know what the differences are. Many of the common tail types are:

1. Veiltail

This is the type most usually sold in pet stores, and is generally what most people think of when they hear 'Betta'. The tail shape is usually long and downward sloped.

2. Crowntail

Crowntails are a unique tail shape. This interesting tail type has long extended rays on the fins, and can be single, double, or even triple ray.

3. Round Tail

Round Tails are another common tail type. This type is essentially a single-tail with rounded edges. Many people confuse Round Tails with Deltas, but Deltas have straighter edges, not rounded.

4. Delta / Super Delta

This type is similar to Halfmoons, except for the tail spread. It has a spread that looks like a triangle and it can go up to 120 degrees. Super Delta tails are basically a larger triangle and a bigger spread of up to 179 degrees.

5. Halfmoon

This type is one of the most coveted tail shapes. It's basically a Delta Tail with a 180 degree spread. In order to be considered a true Halfmoon, the first and last rays of the tail fin (caudal) must be straight, and as long as the other rays. True Halfmoons aren't easy to find and can be confused with Deltas and Super Deltas.

6. Doubletail

Doubletails are an interesting tail shape. Bettas of this type usually have two distinct lobes that are split all the way to the tail base. There are Veiltail, Halfmoon, and even Crowntail Doubletails available for even more variety.

7. Plakat

Plakats are basically the shortfinned version of the common Betta. An interesting fact about Plakats is that they're generally more active than the longfinned versions as they don't have to carry around such a large amount of finnage. Also, if Plakats are sold in pet stores, they can be commonly mistaken for female Bettas, so be aware.

Before you get your new Betta, the main item you should first decide on is where to house your fish. Bettas, despite what many people think, do not do best in small containers or tanks. Bettas love large, open spaces, and are happier and healthier in such an environment.

A good starting point tank size that many Betta owners should consider is a 2.5 gallon aquarium. This size allows room for the fish to swim, and space for any other items, such as decorations, you decide to include. A 5 gallon tank is an even better choice and has room to fit in a filter which allows the tank to be cycled; this cuts down on the amount of water changes required.

Decorating your Betta's tank is always an enjoyable activity to do. You can be creative and can use gravel or marbles or even nothing at all on the bottom of the tank. Rocks, bridges, and other ornaments can add interest and a place for your Betta to explore. If you add fake plants, make sure that they're silk and not plastic, as plastic can very easily tear your fish's delicate fins.

If you don't want to use fake plants, live plants are another alternative. Plants such as Java Fern and Java Moss are popular choices because they're hardy plants and can grow in low-light conditions. Bettas love to rest in Java Ferns leaves, also. One big advantage of using live plants is that they'll help keep the Betta's water cleaner by using up nitrates and ammonia in the water. They aren't a substitute for water changes, though...but they do help keep the water clean in the meantime.

A very important aspect to keeping your Betta healthy is water changes. If your Betta's home doesn't have a filter and isn't cycled, then 100% water changes are a must. If the tank size is around 2.5 gallons, then weekly changes should be enough. Anything under that and 100% changes twice a week will be necessary. If the tank is cycled, then 25% weekly water changes are sufficient. Without frequent water changes, waste and ammonia can build up which can cause your Betta to become sick from fin rot or another disease. You can largely avoid that with proper water changes.

Another necessity is water conditioner. You can get this at nearly any pet store. Water conditioner removes chlorine and chloramine from tap water, which is important since these chemicals can quickly kill Bettas. Very little is needed at every water change so the bottle can last for a long time.

Betta's are tropical fish, and as such need warm water in order to thrive and stay healthy. The generally do best at temperatures between 78 - 82 degrees Fahrenheit. A quality submersible heater is a good investment, and should last for years. Bettas kept at room temperature tend to be very boring to watch as they'll usually just hover in one spot and swim very little. Bettas kept in warmer water are much more active and are constantly exploring their home.

Feeding your Betta isn't complicated. A good quality pellet, such as Hikari Betta Bio Gold, makes for a good staple diet. Variety, however, is good in any pet's diet so you may also consider supplementing with frozen or freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp, live food such as Daphnia or Blackworms, and even blanched peas.

When figuring out how much to feed, try imagining that your Betta's stomach is as big as one of its eyes, and base how much you feed around that. For instance, if you're feeding Hikari pellets, then 2 - 4 a day is enough, otherwise the amount depends on the pellet size. Remember, don't overfeed, as it can cause health problems in your fish.

Many times it seems that Bettas are always sick from some disease or another. More often than not it's because their immune system is weakened from poor living conditions where they were bred, or from when they were languishing in the typical tiny pet store cup. Because of this, any problems that were introduced are now up to you, the new Betta owner, to deal with when you bring your new pet home with you.

But how can you tell if your Betta is sick to begin with?

There are several signs you can look for to tell if your pet is starting to get sick. When observing your fish, keep a sharp eye out for any of the more common changes:

• Stops eating or may spit out its food.


• Is lethargic and isn't active. May also lay on the bottom and move very rarely, or may stay at the surface in one spot. The opposite may also happen where the fish is darting around and rubbing against anything in the tank.


• Becomes pale or dull looking.


• The fish doesn't spread its fins or the fins are clamped together.


• The Bettas scales are raised (much like a pine cone).

Unfortunately, Bettas can suffer from a variety of diseases. So, how do you diagnose your Betta's illness? The following is a brief description of a few common Betta ailments to help give you an idea.

1. Fin Rot

Fin rot is the most common Betta disease. It's mainly caused by dirty water and poor living conditions. The fins start to look frayed and eventually seem to disappear. There may even be a dark or red edge lining the fins that indicate this disease.

2. Fungus

Fungus is generally first noticed as white cottony patches on the Betta's head or tail. Surprisingly, there's a common bacterial disease called Columnaris that also shows up with very similar symptoms. Correctly diagnosing true fungus or Columnaris is important as both diseases require different treatments.

3. Ick

Amusing name for a very unamusing disease. Ick is a parasite that manifests itself as white dots all over the fish's body and head. Another telling sign of this sickness is your fish may be darting and scratching against rocks, plants, or any other surface in order to get rid of the irritation.

4. Velvet

Velvet is another parasite. It is much harder to spot than Ick, and it is best to use a flashlight when diagnosing. When shining a light on the Betta's body, if it appears to be covered with a gold or rust-colored mist, then it has velvet. Many of the behavioral symptoms common with Ick also apply with velvet, such as darting and scratching, and loss of appetite.

5. Popeye

Popeye is a somewhat freaky looking disease because, as the name suggests, it causes one or both of the Betta's eyes to start bulging out. Again, Popeye is mainly caused by dirty water.

There are several more common diseases such as Swim Bladder Disorder, Dropsy, and internal parasites that I haven't touched on here. If you want to discover more details about these diseases and how to treat them, then this Betta resource may allow you to give your Betta the help it needs.

Bettas are not generally social creatures and can be aggressive towards tankmates. However, it can work and many people have successfully kept other fish with Bettas. Keep in mind, though, that success can depend on a particular Betta's personality - some are just more anti-social than others. If the aquarium is at least 5 gallons and is heated and cycled, then there are some tankmate options available if you want to try it. Some options are: Mollies, Corydoras catfish, Otocinclus catfish, Danios, and even Apple snails make good choices. How many you can have and in what combination does depend on tank size.

A healthy Betta has several interesting, well-known behaviors. These fish can be very friendly towards their owner, and are especially active during feeding time. A Betta can learn to recognize you as its food provider and during mealtimes will even actively 'dance' (wiggle back and forth) in excitement waiting for its food. It's quite entertaining.

Another common behavior of male Bettas is they constantly tend to build bubble nests in calm surface areas of their home. Some people think they do this when they're content, and others disagree. No one really knows for sure, but it's still cool to watch your Betta build its nest, if you happen to see it during the building.

This last well-known behavior isn't as harmless as the others. Bettas are very good jumpers and can fit through the most impossible spaces. No matter what tank you have your fish in, make sure that it has a snug-fitting lid of some sort to prevent your pet from jumping to 'freedom'.

I've just given you a brief overview of Bettas and how to care for them. If you want to discover more about how you can have a healthy Betta, then the 'Betta Fish Secrets' book is what you're looking for. Inside you'll find helpful tips and tricks and easy-to-understand explanations of everything Betta related, including how to breed your Bettas. Just a few of the key points the book goes into are:

• Quick tips on how to pick the best Bettas in the shop


• Where you should place your Betta in your room


• The basics of water chemistry


• How to set up the perfect breeding tank for your Bettas


• An overview of the spawning process

The author of 'Betta Fish Secrets', Mike Worthington, has been keeping Bettas for over 20 years, so he knows his stuff. As Mike says, "Bettas are easy to keep, but only if you know how to make them happy and stress free."

All images used are licensed under Creative Commons.

Betta #1. Flickr
Betta #2. Anatomy
Betta #3. Flickr
Betta #4. Flickr
Betta #5. Flickr
Betta #6. Flickr