Bikes in Thailand

You know it, I know it, as soon as you see every other tourist on a bike in Phuket, Pattaya or Chiang Mai you'll be thinking to yourself 'I can do that' it's a cinch.

Well there's nothing to stop you from renting a big sports bike for a days riding if you've never ridden a motor bike before it would be strongly recommended to consider starting with something more appropriate.

Most Thai people ride the light scooters and mopeds out in Thailand. This is partly because of their small stature and partly because they are small cc engine bikes which are cheap to run and buy. There are other reasons of course but I'm generalising here.

When you go to rent a bike make sure you check it over thoroughly. Tyres, coolant, fuel are all important checks. Next check it's not damaged. Now a big problem with renting in Thailand is the fact that some places will want you to surrender your passport. This may cause problems as some unscrupulous bike rental places may try and claim damage has been done to the the bike when you return it and keep onto your passport as collateral.
For this reason it's often wise to surrender a driving license or photo-copy of you passport visa pages and picture section.

Choose a bike from the following range: Suzuki Spark, Honda Wave, Yamaha Click, Yamaha Mio, Yamaha Nouvo. These are all 100cc to 150cc and are either fully automatic or step-thru gears.
Very easy for beginners to learn the ropes with.

I know these bikes don't look cool compared to the big cruisers and so on but trust me if you're new to the roads in Thailand you're better learning on one of these than a big bike you need to work the clutch with.
You've got the added advantage of them being lighter and more agile in slow moving traffic, something that the big bikers often come off worse in ;)

So once you've sourced your bike are about to ride out onto the roads.
You can just buzz on out there and pick it up as you go along but knowing the basic rules of the road in Thailand.

First off they drive on the 'wrong' side of the wrong. If you're lucky enough to be travelling from Jamaica, Ireland, Japan or the UK then you're in luck.

The bigger vehicle you travel in gives you right of way over all smaller vehicles; This applies mainly for when there is two or more lanes, the bikes and slower vehicles usually stick to the bike lane and left-hand lane respectively. Faster cars and trucks stay in the right-hand lane when overtaking.

Second off as a biker you are low on the pecking order of priority. Yes while you're out riding expect to be overtaken whilly nilly and buzzed by everyone who wishes to. Typically the larger the vehicle, the more it has 'presence' on the road.
You can buck this trend and some do so but you're risking injury and your life if that car pulling up to the junction happens to ignore you coming past and just pulls out anyway.

I'm painting a fairly grim picture and to be honest there are far worst countries to ride a bike in than Thailand. But you do need to be aware that as a small biker-rider you aren't immortal on these roads.

Third and most important rule of all. LOOK EVERYWHERE you want to ride to. Pulling out, overtaking, turning etc without looking will kill or injure you if your luck isn't in.
As long as you can keep a good eye on things and go with the flow of traffic you'll be alright 9 times out of 10.
Once you adjust to traffic and acclimatise to it you'll start to feel more at home on the roads.

Fourth rule is to keep sober as much as possible. Yes I know you're on holiday and want to let your hair down and party, cool for you and I'm sure you deserve it, but either keep to your limits or don't ride at all.

Some thai friends of mine have bewildering mindsets of riding like mad on the drink and regard buddha as their co-pilot. At night-time it's often wise to be extra careful while riding.

The Fifth I'd advise is to have decent holiday insurance. You probably won't need this but in case of a bad bike accident you really don't want to be spending fortunes on hospital expenses.

Finally make sure you wear a helmet, wrap up and keep at least a layer of clothing on, it'll help reduce gashes and scratches as well as eliminate sun burn.

I hope this hasn't put you off biking here in Thailand. Once you're experienced to the roads it's a great adventure to behold. Until you have at least a months experience I'd recommend a large dose of caution though.

All this is assuming you're in tourist areas and NOT Bangkok!

For Bangkok I'm covering it in a different section and you really do need to be on the top of your game for riding in the capital.

Not only is it good to check out a bike for safety it also is wise prior to renting one to have a once-over of the machine in the presence of the owner. That way he can't 'create' ficticious damage when you return the bike...

Checklist for bikes.

Tyres / Pressure - Too much air in the tyre and the bike won't grip the road and corners can be dangerous if you lean too far. Your bikes agility will be less to.
Too low and it'll grip too much, you'll use more fuel and the ride will be uncomfortable.
Check there's no cuts, bulges or holes. A flat tyre on a bike isn't the end of the world here though as almost everywhere has a small bike mechanic to fix tyres.

Fluids - Check fuel, oil level on brakes and engine. Don't forget that the a lot of bikes have a water-cooled radiator just like a car. Check there's enough water in there. Don't worry about the grade of coolant too much. In Thailand you're bike isn't going end up frozen. The main thing is you don't want your bike to overheat. In traffic it'll get a bit hotter but shouldn't exceed the halfway mark.

Damage - A cracked fairing can often get worse, especially if the roads are bad and / or you are highspeed riding (as the wind will buffet it more so).

Finally make sure you're happy and have got the right clothing on. Flip-flops and t-shirts won't cut it in a tumble or crash. You'll be labelled a SQUID (Stupid, Quick and Dead) by other bikers and will have a nightmare in the aftermath.
For an idea of what to wear check the links pages at the bottom of the page.

Bikes in Thailand are widely used, more so than cars are in some areas.

For the self-sufficient expat they are a must-have for getting out and about. They allow a great deal of independence from public transport and allow you to strike out on your own to discover things for yourself, additionally they are (second only to walking) the cheapest way of travelling in Thailand.

The small 50 - 125 cc motorbike in Thailand is the most popular throughout Thailand. It's cheap, ultra-economical and is a handy way to get through heavy traffic conditions. They often come with a metal basket attached to the front of the frame for carrying the shopping.

Typical examples include: Honda Wave, Suzuki Smash, Yamaha Spark and the Honda Sonic (see roll-over picture).

Typical Price Range: 30,000 to 50,000 baht brand new.

Next up the food chain of bikes are the 150 - 400 cc bikes.
Not as popular with the masses as the smaller cc bikes, mainly due to the increase in price and speed. A touch more exclusive and faster yet still quite economical.
Bikes which are more performance orientated start at this level, they are distinct in usually having no basket on the front frame.
Cruisers and Sports Bikes made in Japan tend to be in this bracket, imports also become apparent.

Typical examples include: Honda CBR 150, Honda NSR, Honda CB1, Honda Phantom, Honda Tiger, Honda Steed, Suzuki Raider, Kawasaki Ninja 250cc, CB400 and CBR 400.

Typical Price Range: 60,000 to 300,000++ baht brand new.

The four-figure cc superbikes / Sportstourers that are common in the west are rarer than dancing unicorns in Thailand. More common is the 'Mid-Range' 250 - 600 cc sports bikes, scramblers, tourers and cruisers.
One of the downsides of Thailands biking scene is that currently the government has extortionate rates of import tax on foreign motorbikes above 200cc (now 250cc). Hence the reason why a bike that is above 200 cc (now 250 cc) is potentially an imported one. At least half to three quarters of these will be 'gray' imports.

In the North of Thailand this is quite common as many of these bikes tend to be ridden there. They are easy to tell as they tend not to have number-plates fitted. The ever laissez-faire Thai police usually turn a blind-eye to these bikes, even in the provincial cities. However if the bike is loud enough and big enough you will likely be pulled over at a police check-point.
If the police do impound one of these 'gray' imports they will often demand proof of registration otherwise a hefty 'fine' is imposed.
As as a result of all these variables bikes of this caliber are few and far between apart from in Bangkok and they are usually expensive. Ownership of one can be considered a status symbol. Almost always second-hand, you never quite know what the service history is. Legitimate paperwork is also scarce (unless you register the bike and pay mega-baht in import duty). There can be maintenance complications due to scarce spare parts availability.

Typical examples include: Honda CBR 1100, Suzuki GSX 1100, Ducati 916, Suzuki Hayabusa and any kind of Harley Davidson.

Typical Price Range: 150,000 (Usually second hand only and without full legislation) to in excess of 1,000,000 baht (legit).

Overall there are are 6 zones to be in for biking in Thailand.

I've surmised each of them in a whimsical and lyrical fashion...

Mountain Trailblazer -Mountainous: Chiang Mai Province, Mae Sot

"A mountain to climb, a valley to explore and a machine to hit the trail in. You do it for yourself, the club or maybe just because it's there..."

Sweeping vistas, near traffic-free roads mean an uncluttered, elitist biking scene. But the winding terrain, tight turns and lack of nearby biker resources can mean this is a remote and risky way of biking. The margins of error are slim indeed once you are 'In The Zone'.

Low Plains Rider - Central Plains Thailand: Kamphaeng Pet, Nakhon Sawan

"Rice paddys and fields to left and right of you, you pause on the undending highway to nowhere. You'll get there in the end because you've made it this far and journey can only get better."

Lush green flora and fauna are often the eye's reward here. The flat terrain may seem boring, but at least you can see what's coming and make good progress. The cities are more like large towns and traffic is manageable, even for a big 1000cc bike and once on the highways you can really let rip! Beware of U Turners and Pull-Outs.

City Hawk - Urban Jungle: Bangkok, Pattaya, Chiang Mai City

"Sky scrapers loom above and gaudy bars and go-gos call out below as you you ride past through the city streets. Brown clad enforcers out and the narrow sois fly past as you press on, eager to see what's new and waiting to be found."

For the biker the heat, congestion and traffic will test you to the limit. You'll have the benefit of large parts resources and any 2nd hand bikes and new ones usually come through the Capital first. Be wary of bike theft if you ride a big bike and learn the ways of navigating the urban jungle...

Isaan Intruder - Isaan Plateau: Khorat, Khon Kaen, Nakhon Panom, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchathani

"You're one of the gang, in the brotherhood groove, getting ready to roll out and ride the Isaan Trail once more. It's an easy going thing but still got a few surprises to spring on you."

Riding in Isaan isn't a difficult place. The roads tend to be flat and open. The cities are usually small enough not to cause problems for all but the rookiest of bikers.

Rider of the Isles -Islands: Koh Tao, Phuket, Koh Pha-ngan, Koh Samui

"You're the biker out here, you've seen it all, the nightlife, the diving and more besides. But now it's the biking scene that will test your skills as ride the isles to find your way."

As an island biker you'll be in a microsm of tourism, nightlife and rewarding scenery. Expense, extroversion and lifestyle are often the name of the game here. Everything is pricier but the farang people are ever changing and it can be an interesting groove while it lasts.

For out and out diving Koh Tao's your island, it's got partying too, don't expect big bikes here just small honda sonics. Party island is Koh Pha ngan where the full moon beat will blow your mind and your eardrums. Last but not least the mother island herself; Koh Samui, as expensive as a capital city but large enough to ride and explore for days on end.

Coastal Cruiser: Southern Thailand - Chumpon, Hua Hin, Bang Saphan, Ranong, Deep South

"The trade winds buffet you this way and that, as you weave around potholes can be mean. Yet you're a farang alone among the thai's and far from any tourists as you open the throttle and move a little closer to heaven."

A Biker apart from the masses you have a whole different region to play in. The Ranong mountains near to Chumpon give a great challenge during visa runs and and the Gulf trade winds will blast you as you ride the coastal highway. The cities are nice and small, if less a little less developed compared to those close to the capital city.

One thing I haven't mentioned yet is the weather.

Even in the tropics when you can usually see the big clouds approaching and get into shelter it's not always possible if you're long-range touring.
I've made the error of not checking the weather during a supposed 'dry' season when all of a sudden a 'rogue' area of low pressure sneaks in and all of a sudden you're deluged.

Riding when it's heavy rain is no fun at all. The roads get slippery, you'll likely have a bike laden with kit and few people carry decent waterproofs (as umbrellas usually suffice).
Those on scooters enjoy a perverse advantage if they choose to slow down and ride one-handed while sheltering under their umbrella's. For the true biker out there with both hands needed it's no dice. You're going to get wet, unless you find shelter and quickly.
Bridges are one option, as are building overhangs, awning canopies and that kind of thing.
Don't be too put out by 'intruding' into someones 'turf' as they'll more often than not understand you're wanting to remain dry.
After the rain clears take it easy for the first hour or so of riding again. Aquaplanning is a scary after-effect on roads that have just been saturated.