How to choose billiard cue

To start talking about differences in cues, let's start with differences in games.

Pool is played typically on a 4' x 8' or 4 1/2' x 9' table, the balls that are used for this table are normally 2 1/4" in diameter. The balls are usually marked with numbers 1 through 15 (object balls) and you have a cue ball without a number.

Snooker is played on a variety of table sizes, but if you want to experience the game in full, you need a 6' x 12' monster table. The balls are usually 2 1/16" in diameters and you have 15 red balls, 6 colored balls and one cue ball, which is normally white.

Another major difference is the felt material used for snooker and pool tables. Snooker felt is "faster" with more tightly integrated structure while pool felt tends to be "slower".

So we have smaller and lighter balls flying around on a faster cloth for snooker and bigger, heavier balls flying around on a "slower" cloth for pool.

Because of all of this, snooker cues are lighter (between 16 and 19 Oz), have smaller tip size(between 8 and 10 mm) and a bit longer (57' at times there are extensions that can add to the length of the cue). While pool cues are heavier (between 18 to 21 Oz), have a bigger tip size (10 mm + depending on the manufacturer) and are shorter then snooker cues (around 56').

So in short, pool cues are for pool and snooker cues are for snooker :)

Now that we talked about different games, lets move on to the materials from which cues are made - basically there are two types - wood and non-wood.

Wood is a traditional choice, it feels good, it bends ever so slightly on a contact with a cue ball, it looks good and most of billiard players prefer it. Non wood - it feels good, it almost does not bend when you hit the ball and not too many people like it. One main advantage that composite or non-wood cues have over traditional wood, is that composite cues do not warp. If you managed to get composite cue to warp, you were REALLY trying to damage it. Wood on the other hand is a natural material and it can warp very easily. Leave your wooden cue in a car overnight in a winter - it will warp. Leave it in a basement with humidity problem - guess what, after a while it will warp as well. It happens because wood tend to absorb moisture of the air around it and it will expand and contract depending on the temperature. Some shops would offer you to straighten a warped cue well it MIGHT actually work, but it usually reverts to it's warped form in about 3-6 month. It costs as much as some new cues and if it does not work, that's it, your cue is done.

Composites come in a form of graphite where no wood is used and wood coated with fiberglass where the wooden shaft is completely sealed from the environment in a thin layer of fiberglass.

I am not advocating for a composite cue, I play with my McDermott made out of maple and I am quite happy with it. All I have to do is to remember to care for it when needed. I used to play with a Quetec Signature series cue, a composite, and it would play great, however I found that after about 30 minutes, I needed to wear one of those silly pool gloves, you know the one with 3 fingers.

Most of the wooden cues are made out of maple or ash, some pool sticks are made out of mysterious ramin wood and those are not an option. I have never seen a ramin cue which was not warped. Ash cues tend to warp more then maple ones, but ash has a very nice structure, and ash cues look very dramatic and stunning.

Some people are wondering if they should get one piece or two piece cue - look, here is the deal - one piece cues are generally lower quality and imagine if you have to carry it around - well, that's just silly. Get a two piece cue, when I get my 2 piece McDermott out of my case and slowly put it together. I think I look cool while doing it (my guess I am the only one who thinks that, besides my mom, but that's beyond the point).

Since most people prefer two piece cues, one question that comes to mind is a joint. There are many configurations, different threads and locking system, but mainly there are several types:

· Wood on wood.
· Wood on metal.
· Metal on metal.

Wood on wood delivers a softer hit with more control of a cue ball. People who prefer positioning game, love wood on wood joint.

Wood on metal gives you a medium hit with fair amount of control of the cue ball, people who are fairly new to billiard and don't care much for English will like these ones.

Metal on metal will deliver most powerful hit and very little control of a cue ball. Good for jump break cues.

When choosing a tip size, you should think about the way this cue is going to be used. There are two characteristics of the tip that you should be aware of:
· Size.
· Softness.
As far as size is concern, there is really only one thing to keep in mind - do you intend to play a positioning game or just like to send all the balls on the table flying. With smaller tip you can achieve a greater English and control where cue ball will travel after hitting that object ball. Larger tips are more convenient for just hitting the cue ball hoping that something will eventually get in.

Softness of the tip also affects the speed of the cue ball, control of the cue ball and amount of spin that cue ball will receive after a contact with the cue. Softer tips give you better control and less power, harder tips will give you less control but more power. Keep in mind, soft tips have to be replaced more frequently as they wear off.

Another thing to remember - chalk your cue before every shot, that will help preserve your tip and give you better shot overall.

To determine what weight you need, all you have to do is observe how you play. If you see that player makes a lot of hard shots, get something heavy. If you notice a carefully planned shots where positioning is the name of the game, get something lighter. I would not recommend anything lighter then 19Oz for a male.

Countless number of manufacturers compete with each other in terms of design. It's really impossible to recommend a design as those things are quite personal.

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