Boa Constrictor Imperator (Common Boa)

There are 15 families of snakes with over 2900 currently recognised species. One of those families, Boidae, consists of Boinae (True Boas), and Erycinae (Old World Sand Boas). The subfamily Boinae includes Boa (Boas, including the Boa constrictor), Candoia (Bevel-nosed Boas), Corallus (Neotropical Tree Boas), Epicrates (Rainbow Boas) and Eunectes (Anacondas).

Boa Constrictor Imperator, or the Common Boa, is a medium to large boa and part of the family Boidae.

The boas are non-venemous snakes which subdue their prey by constriction. While this makes the Boa Constrictor's name quite apt, it is a common misconception that it is the only snake to constrict it's prey. In fact most non-venemous species subdue their prey in this manner to make eating it easier and safer.

Boa imperator are one of the smaller boa constrictor species, and average approximately 7 - 9 feet in length as adults, with the males tending to be slightly smaller and less muscular than the females.

The boa constrictors range from central Mexico, to northern, and central South America. Boa imperator mostly come from Columbia and are often called Columbian boas.

Boa constrictors can thrive in a wide range of habitats, from rainforests to scrubland. While juveniles tend to be semi-aboreal, they climb less as they mature and adults can be considered mostly terrestrial.

In the wild they will feed on rodents, other small mammals, birds and lizards. In captivitry they are normally fed exclusively on defrosted rodents - nornally rats, or rabbits for large specimens.

Before deciding on keeping a Boa Constrictor, you should be sure about the commitment you are about to make. A healthy boa can grow to over 10 foot in length, and live for over 20 years. Can you really make a commitment to care for such a large animal, for such a long period of time?

Remember that a large boa will need to be fed on large rats, or even rabbits. You may need to take it to the vets, and you will need to make arrangements for its care when you are on vacation.

So, now have that out of the way, what are Common Boa like to care for...

Housing a Common Boa

A large adult boa should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 6' x 2'. Adult boas are mostly terrestrial and so height is not as important as floor space, although they will apprectiate a sturdy branch to climb on. A platform can also be provided to make use of vertical space ane effectively increase the size of the enclosure.

Melamine or plastic vivariums with sliding glass doors are ideal for housing boas. These are easy to clean, well insulated so keeps the heat in, and provides a great view from the front. Note that the glass doors should be fitted with a lock, especially if children are present.

Temperature should be maintained around 80 - 85 F, a little cooler towards one end, and a basking area around 90 - 92 F. There are a number of options for providing heat but I would highly recommend a ceramic bulb which must be fitted with a guard to prevent burns.

Whatever style of heater is used, a thermostat is essential to maintain the correct temperature.

Feeding a Boa Constrictor

In their natural habitat, boa constrictors will take rodents, other small mammals, birds and lizards. In captivity they tend to be good feeders, and most will happily take frozen and defrosted rodents of a suitable size. Neonates will normally start on 'fuzzy' (week old) mice, and progress up to medium/large rats, and even rabbits for particularly large females.

Juveniles should be fed a suitably sized prey item once every 6 - 7 days. Adults should be fed every 14 days. Overfeeding is detrimental to a snake's health, and can severely shorten life expectancy. Feeding overly large prey is also bad since it stresses the digestive system. A suitable size for a prey item is no larger than the girth of the snake. You should avoid handling a boa for 24 - 48 hours after feeding.

A note about humidity

While common boas are less sensitive to humidity than some other boa species, such as the rainbow boas, ensuring your vivarium's humidity remains at the correct levels is still important. An enclosure which is too dry will lead to shedding problems, and dehydration, while a constantly damp enclosure is prone to mold and fungal growth. For a common boa, aim for a relative humidity around 50 - 60% and increase slightly by misting when your boa is about to shed (when the skin goes cloudy). You should provide a large, deep, water bowl which your boa may soak in at shedding time anyway, and this will help keep the humidity levels up. Adjust the humidity by increasing or decreasing the size of the water bowl, or moving it closer or further away from your heat source.

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While boas in general have a reputation for being docile and easily handle, that certainly doesn't apply to all species. The Emerald Tree Boa, while a truly stunning snake, is one example of a boa which doesn't like being handled, and are often aggressive. While they can thrive in captivity, they should be left to experienced keepers due to their temperament and special husbandry requirements.

Taxonomy of the family Boidae (commonly called the "Boids") is a hotly debated topic amongst herpetologists. Some experts class the Pythons as part of Boidae, while others class them as a separate family, Pythonidae. Although there is also confusion over what should or should not be classed as a boa. This lens however deals primarily with Boa Constrictor Imperator (BCI) , otherwise known as the Common Boa.

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B. c. amarali, Amaral's boa

B. c. constrictor, Red-tailed boa

B. c. imperator, Common northern boa

B. c. longicauda, Tumbes Peru boa

B. c. melanogaster, Ecuadorian boa

B. c. nebulosa, Dominican clouded boa

B. c. occidentalis, Argentine boa

B. c. orophias, St. Lucia boa

B. c. ortonii, Orton's boa

B. c. sabogae, Pearl Island boa