Boat Batteries - The center of your Boat's Universe

-how many batteries you have

- how are they configured (start bank, house bank, just 2 batteries with a simple off, 1, all, 2 switch, etc.)

- do you have a charger (yes)? is it working? How much power is it putting out?

- does your boat have a shore power connection (yes)? Is it connected? Is it working? does it have an A/C system, or just A/C to D/C?

- what voltage level does your battery(ies) have?

Equipment Below Decks
Electrical System
Inboard Engine(s)
Head System
Water System
Galley Outboard Motor(s)
Trailer Sails
Mast & Rigging

GENERAL:

* Do a general cleaning of hull, deck and topsides using a mild detergent
* Make sure drains and scuppers are clear
* Put on a good coat of wax
* Clean and polish metal with a good metal polish
* Clean teak and oil
* Clean windows and hatches
* Clean canvas, bimini and dodger
* Clean interior including bilges
* Check spare parts and tools and replace as necessary
* Make sure registration is current and onboard
* Check and replace wiper blades if necessary

HULL

* Check for hull abrasions, scratches, gouges, etc. and repair
* Check and replace zincs
* Check for blisters and refinish is necessary
* Check rub rails
* Check swim platform and/or ladder
* Inspect and test trim tabs
* Check shaft, cutlass bearing, strut and prop
* Check rudder and fittings
* Touch up or replace antifouling paint

DECK, FITTINGS, SAFETY EQUIPMENT:

* Check stanchion, pulpits and lifelines for integrity
* Check ground tackle, lines, fenders, etc.
* Check chainplates and cleats
* Check hull/deck joint
* Check deck, windows, and port lights for leaks
* Inspect anchor windlass and lubricate
* Clean and grease winches
* Check and lubricate blocks, pad eyes, etc.
* Check dinghy, and life raft

BELOW DECKS:

* Check, test and lubricate seacocks
* Check condition of hoses and clamps
* Make sure below waterline hoses are double clamped
* Check bilges pumps for automatic and manual operation
* Check for oil in bilges
* Check limber holes and make sure they are clear of debris

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND COMPONENTS:

* Check battery water level
* Check/recharge batteries
* Check terminals for corrosion, clean and lubricate
* Check bonding system
* Inspect all wiring for wear and chafe
* Test all gauges for operability
* Check shore power and charger
* Check for spare fuses
* Check all lighting fixtures (including navigation lights) and make sure you have spare bulbs
* Check all electronics for proper operation
* Inspect antennas

REQUIRED AND RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT:

* Sound signaling device
* Check distress signals and expiration date
* Check Pfds
* Inspect life rings and cushions
* Check fire extinguishers and recharge if necessary
* Check and adjust compass
* Check navigation lights
* Check charts and replace as necessary
* Check radar reflector
* Check and replace first aid supplies
* Check bailer and hand pump

INBOARD ENGINE(S):

* Change oil & filters - have spare onboard
* Check and change fuel filters - have spares onboard
* Check and change engine zincs
* Check cooling system change coolant as necessary - have extra onboard
* Record engine maintenance log, especially date & hours of last oil changes
* Check belts for tension
* Check transmission fluid
* Check and clean backfire flame arrestor
* Check impeller
* Check and clean water strainer
* Check bilge blower

HEAD SYSTEM:

* Checked for smooth operation - lubricate and clean as necessary
* If equipped with treatment system, have chemicals on hand
* Y-valve operation checked, valve labeled & secured

WATER SYSTEM:

* Flush water tank
* Check water system and pump for leaks and proper operation
* Check hot water tank working on both AC and engines
* Check for tank cap keys on board
* Check and clean shower sump pump screens

GALLEY:

* Fill propane tank, check electric & manual valves, check storage box vent to make sure it is clear
* Check refrigerator, clean and freshen, operate on AC and DC
* Clean stove, check that all burners and oven are working
* Check microwave, if fitted

OUTBOARD MOTOR:

* Replace spark plugs
* Check plug wires for wear
* Check prop for nicks and bends
* Change/fill gear lube
* Inspect fuel lines, primer bulb and tank for leaks
* Lubricate and spray moveable parts

TRAILER:

* Check for current registration
* Check rollers and pads
* Check and lubricate wheel bearings
* Clean and lubricate winch
* Lubricate tongue jack and wheel
* Test lights and electrical connections
* Check tire pressure and condition
* Check brakes (if equipped)
* Check safety chains
* Check tongue lock

SAILS:

* Check general condition
* Look for wear and chafing
* Check battens and batten pockets
* Check all sail attachments
* Inspect bolt rope

MAST AND RIGGING:

* Check mast and spreaders for corrosion or damage
* Inspect spreader boots and shrouds
* Inspect rivets and screw connections for corrosion
* Check reefing points and reefing gear
* Clean sail track
* Check rigging, turnbuckles and clevis pins for wear and corrosion
* Inspect stays for fraying and "fish hooks"
* Check forestay and backstay connections
* Check masthead fitting and pulleys
* Check and lubricate roller furling
* Check halyards and consider replacing or swapping end for end
* Tape turnbuckles, cotter pins, and spreaders

Barry suggested that we add three more items to the spring checklist. They are as follows:

1. Lubricate stuffing boxes, shaft and rudder logs
2. Empty water separator filters
3. Shock the drinking water tank. Barry suggests pool shock not bleach. Pool shock breaks down in a few days and then can be flushed out.

How big of a battery should you buy for your boat?

The heart of any fishing boat only beats with top quality batteries period. A lot of fishermen often overlook this simplest and most basic of fishing accessories, buy the wrong type of battery for their application.

Marine batteries are built quite differently than automotive batteries to hold up to the pounding and demands all day fishing puts on them. By choosing the proper type and size of battery, performance can be greatly increased.

Let's say this...in my opinion the answer is simple-carry as many of the largest batteries you can! It's hard to have enough power, and today even recreational fishermen have lots of demand for electrical power. Sonar units, GPS, livewell and bilge pumps, high thrust electric trolling motors, electric downriggers and anchors are found on most boats today.

My walleye tournament boat has 4 batteries on board. The 24 volt bow trolling motor is powered with two 31 series deep cycle batteries, a large 1000 cca cranking battery starts the 200 Evinrude E-Tec and the 8 hp kicker, and a separate 31 series deep cycle battery powers all of my electronics.

This may seem like overkill, but the results from my electronics must meet my requirements over a full fishing day. I can't afford low battery power to be a factor in where or how I fish. Most fishermen can get by with a little less. If you are running a 12-volt trolling motor a minimum of 1 deep cycle and 1 cranking battery is needed. If using a 24-volt trolling motor, obviously you will need to add another deep cycle battery. In both of these cases you may want to consider adding an extra deep cycle to power your electronics instead of taking time from the trolling motors batteries.

The proper type and size batteries are an extremely important part of any fishing boat. Without them we go nowhere! By choosing the proper battery depending on our application, they will last longer, perform better and we will have more fun. There are many quality batteries on the market so compare when you shop. My favorites are the Deka Marine Master batteries made by East Penn manufacturing or Interstate's Marine Series. Both are available at Freeway Sports Center.

If you have any questions or would like a flyer on choosing the proper marine battery, request to lance@walleye101.com

As you know, All lead/acid batteries are not basically the same. The basic types are starting or automotive, marine and deep-cycle batteries.
The deep-cycled has been seriously abused in recent years by marketers of hybrid batteries that are not true deep-cycle but a cross between a starting battery and a deep-cycle.

These will have plates that are slightly thicker than starting batteries, but much thinner than deep cycle batteries.

The most important criteria that determines battery type and performance is the thickness and composition of the battery plates, the factor that most affects cost.

Battery service life is primarily determined by how many times it is cycled, and whether it has been designed to withstand frequent and significant discharging. Cycling means each period of discharging and subsequent recharging. Equally important is how far a battery is discharged before recharging.

Automotive batteries are designed to tolerate discharges at around 5% before recharging and will soon fail if deeply discharged, whereas deep cycle batteries are designed to discharge to 50% or more without being harmed. Be sure to get the book noted above to the right by clicking on the following link:Understanding Boat Batteries & Battery Charging

Batteries should be installed in a dry location and at a sufficient height above the bilge that a hull flooding incident will not immediately submerge the batteries and short them out. Batteries mounted close to the bottom of the hull run this risk.
Batteries generate hydrogen gas while charging; hydrogen gas is highly corrosive to most metals and particularly rubber products. Thus, hoses, wiring, fuel and oil lines should never be located ABOVE batteries as this gas is lighter than air and will rise.
Regardless of type, it is highly recommended that batteries be mounted in rugged, covered plastic boxes specially designed for this purpose. This is to contain the inevitable sulfuric acid leaks, this acid being very damaging to all organic materials (clothing, wood) as well as most metals.

Unfortunately, batteries are made in so many configurations and types that there are no quick and easy answers for those that desire quick answers. It won't be long before we put you asleep.

We intended to be of most benefit to those of you who suffer from the problems of premature battery failure and all-to-frequent replacement.

If you're ever wondered why there is so much conflicting information about batteries, it is because not many people bother to take the time to learn, including many people that sell batteries. Amongst experts, there is wide agreement about performance of various types because actual performance is easily proven.

Contrary to popular misconception, the so-called "maintenance-free" battery is anything but. The only difference between the this type and those not so designated is that you don't have to top off the electrolyte (add water) when it evaporates, but batteries still need to be maintained in other ways as they will not function properly when ignored. So don't sleep on this valuable information if your a boat owner.
Contributed by David Pascoe's Guide

Here's to those that are going to need this information the most....Outboard boats can get away with using automotive cranking batteries so long as there is no heavy power demand equipment) this does not include navigation equipment like radios, GPS, fish finder, etc., as these use little power.

Equipment such as live bait well pumps, trolling motors, spotlights, electric down riggers, video chart recorders and so on demand deep-cycle batteries. However, to avoid annual battery replacement, deep cycle batteries will perform best when charging is completely reliant on engine alternators since cranking batteries do not tolerate deep discharges well.

Further, if you're going offshore where there may be high demand on bilge pumps, BEWARE that cheap automotive batteries aren't going to run your pumps for very long, particularly after engine failure. Offshore operators should use higher capacity deep-cycle batteries.

Because of the high power demands on batteries in cruisers while engines aren't running or being charged by chargers, cranking batteries are a poor choice unless a boat has no appreciable other DC equipment. Boats with DC refrigerators, radar, anchor windlasses and other heavy power demands are best served by true deep cycle batteries. They are the primary reason why so many small boat owners have to replace batteries so often. MY advice is to avoid batteries labeled "auto-marine."
Sport fishermen typically have very high power - Good luck