A Short Boundary Waters History 

Because I know you wanted to know

The BWCAW and a very large surrounding area were carved out by ice sheets over several glaciations during the ice ages. Upon retreat of the last glacier the Canadian Shield was left exposed. That rock is from the Precambrian era so you have the possibility of discovering stony material from 540 million years to over 4 billion years of age. It is patiently awaiting your arrival.

This is a Boreal Forest with plants and animals representative of that biome. The BWCA is also a home to many birds and a destination itself for birders. Native Americans likely settled the area shortly after the forest reclaimed the land following the last glaciation. Petroglyphs and pictographs are still visible and visitable in some areas. When the Europeans arrived it was the Ojibwe who were living here.

In 1909 President Roosevelt set aside the Superior National Forest. Additional purchases and annexations over the next half century allowed the SNF to grow. The BWCA name was adopted in 1958. The Park was designated in 1964 as Wilderness under the Wilderness Act. The Act was put in force over local opposition in 1978, severely curtailing motorized travel in the Park. Today there is no mining, logging, or motorized traffic in the vast majority of the BWCA.

The Superior National Forest covers an area over 3.5 million acres and encompasses a majority of the area between Lake Superior and the Canadian Border. The BWCAW is a near million acre jewel caught in the crown of the SNF. By royal decree Canada created Quetico Park in 1913. It is another designated Wilderness that girds the BWCA to its North.

You may have noticed the BWCA loses it's W. That's just the way it is. Click here for links to more history. If you are interested in purchasing books about the history, fauna or flora check my picks for each.

Map of the Forest 

The map link below does not show the lakes, just what the BWCA and the Superior National Forest encompass in Northeastern Minnesota.

Big Map

A large map of Minnesota showing the Forest.

About Outfitters 

Knowledgeable folks who want to help you!

The Outfitters who offer services are grouped around two localities. In the East on the Gunflint Trail you will find most of the Outfitters in Grand Marais. On the West side of the BWCA, along the Echo Trail, most of them are gathered around Ely (say E-lee).

Unless you are seasoned in Wilderness camping of some sort, I suggest using an Outfitter the first time. They are in the business of making your trip memorable. Order 3-4 brochures and do some comparing. Call or e-mail your questions to your Outfitter choices. Inquire if you can take a shower after your trip - a really nice perk! Talking with the Outfitters will help you choose one.

With your Outfitter picks discuss your groups experience level, interests and desires for the trip. Is it all about fishing? Maybe scenery, solitude, photography or ? Some routes are better suited to certain activities then others. It will cost you a few bucks but have an Outfitter or two send you some maps of possible routes ahead of time. You'll spend hours going over the routes yourself and with your crew. Have fun!

Would you like some examples of possible trips? Check out BWCA.com's very nice feature for canoe route planning. Read the trip reports for exact lakes traveled. You'll find the camping spots and portages marked (I suggest using the flash version). There is also a different map set by entry point with additional information.

Most Outfitter's offer three levels of service or some combination of them. You can choose to be completely outfitted, partially outfitted, or just rent a canoe. If available, I'd tell you to stay at their bunkhouse the night before your trip. Drop off and pickup service to and from the Entry Points (EP's) should be included or available for a fee. If you are only renting a canoe, ask for a rooftop canoe harness - it's probably free.

If you go the fully outfitted route, your Outfitter will give you a list of what you'll need to bring. They should provide everything else you require. If you want to use some of your own equipment feel absolutely free. As you accumulate gear, your outfitting costs will decline as you move away from being fully outfitted. I'd suggest hitting up your Outfitter for quality used gear.

Leave No Trace Principles 

The way to travel in the Wilderness

• Plan and prepare.
• Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
• Dispose of waste properly.
• Leave what you find.
• Minimize campfire impact.
• Respect wildlife.
• Be considerate of other visitors.

Boundary Waters Permits 

I Need a Miracle! Can I get a permit during my vacation?

Entry into the BWCA is limited in two ways. First, you must have a permit to enter the park during the regular season. No kidding! You can either ask your Outfitter to apply for you or do it yourself online. Secondly, permits are limited to a small number of parties per Entry Point, per day. You must enter the Park on the date of your permit - no if's, and's or but's.

In order to help keep the BWCA in as near a pristine condition as possible summer permits are issued by lottery in mid January. You can apply to enter for your favorite date and EP online between December 1st and January 15th. If you don't get your permit, after the lottery it's first come first serve for open dates and EP's. You'll have to cruise the Forest Service's site looking for open permits or you can ask your Outfitter to do this.

Parties are limited in size to nine members and four canoes or kayaks. That's it! Any more, anywhere may earn you a ticket from an unexpected Forest Service employee. Keep your permit and fishing license handy. Your presence in the Park will be verified by the FS if you encounter them.

On October 1st the regular season is over. The need for reserving a permit also evaporates. At this point you may self-issue a permit. They might be available at the EP or you may need to stop by the Rangers office to fill one out. It would be best to contact the FS first and find out. Keep a copy and put one in the Ranger's box (or wherever you're instructed to place their copy). That's it!

When is the best time to go? Well, that will depend on a number of things. If the bugs drive you nutty, that's covered below. If you like to swim in "warm" water I'd suggest the end of July into late August. Looking to avoid the crowds? Cooler weather will be your friend and late May, very early June or after September are good times to hit the water. The fall colors are an absolute pleasure to enjoy in the Boundary Waters. Fishing is great for weeks after the opener in May and again after the summer heat passes. The smallmouth action never seems to stop.

Camping in the Boundary Waters during the Winter can be a blast! Search the bulletin boards for trip reports. This will give you a perspective of the Forest that the vast majority will never see. At least one Outfitter offers mushing during the winter.

Many of us who visit the Boundary Waters have a long drive. From personal experience, after driving for 11+ hours, I'm in zombie mode. I split the drive up into 2 legs so that everyone can get a decent nights rest before heading out to the EP at the crack of dawn. Not that anyone sleeps much the night before.

BWCA Fire Information, Closings & Webcams 

Live images from and around the Boundary Waters

Currently there is no fire ban in effect for the BWCA. The latest information on fires, closures and restrictions is available from the SNF and the MnDNR.

Closings: None noted.

You can view live pictures from the west side of the BWCA. You can look at a few lakes and downtown Ely. Visit the Wolf Center to possibly view wolves. The Wolf Center is pretty neat if you have the patience to wait for a wolf to appear. Wait for it..wait for it... There is another camera where you can get high resolution images. You can zoom in, out and save shots too!

Canoes and Portage Etiquette in the BWCA 

Byways of the Wilderness

Canoes are best chosen from experience. If you have it, 'nuff said. If you're lacking in this department, rent one from an Outfitter and with their help choose the canoe that best fits your inexperience. Then pick out a paddle.

One of the most quoted ways I've heard to size yourself for a paddle is this: sit down on a bench and measure the distance from your nose straight down to the bench. Make that a round number and then add 24-26 inches for total paddle length. Or listen to your Outfitter's suggestion.

If you're unsure on how to don and release your new canoehat, ask to be shown and then practice until you get it right. You might also ask about the "walk up" method for heavier canoes. If you have a paddling partner that is by far the easiest way to do it. While you're at it, find out how to properly load and balance the canoe at the Outfitters. Get your answers now and don't be shy about asking questions. Once you hit the water you'll be on your own.

For the new BWCA paddledipper I would wager you get a tried and true Grumman or Alumacraft Quetico aluminum canoe. Don't try running any rapids even using these beasts in the BWCA. The portages are there for a reason, just check some of the video below to see what happens when you ignore common sense.

Photo Courtesy of Lynn O'Kane at Voyageur North Outfitters.

The earlier you start in the morning the less wind you get - usually. If it's so windy you're afraid to leave you are wind bound. It happens. Unless you are confident in a canoe defer your departure. You should also wear those pfd's the Outfitter provided.

It is good manners to hang out on the lake while others are using a portage - less confusion and no chance to mix gear. This will likely be impossible at well used portages like the Number Lakes(EP#30) so don't sweat it. Consider putting colored tape or bandannas on your packs so you and other canoeists can easily identify them.

Don't throw your gear out all willy-nilly when unloading. If you do, someone will pop out of the woods into that minefield. Don't be surprised when you walk into that minefield. When portaging pile all your gear including the canoe to one side of the landing. Newbies either don't remember or were never taught this concept. Avoid the temptation of trying to educate other travelers. From personal experience no one is interested.

Hoisting up and releasing your canoe is most easily accomplished on the lake in my opinion. It may be the landing is full when you arrive so just set it off the portage until a space opens up. I load and unload the canoe in the water, never on land since I'm in a Kevlar canoe. On some landings, when the mud is up to my thigh, I'll fill the canoe in the shallower mud and slide it out. Extricating yourself from that situation can't help but be amusing to anyone watching. Laugh with them. You could be at work. A good maxim to keep in mind: The fewer loose things you have in the canoe the happier you will be.

To help you gauge portage difficulty Quiet Journey members have compiled a portage database. The Rook site has a list of many BWCA lakes plus links to the Minnesota DNR. Portages can be like a paved path, smooth and with only a moderate pitch. Those are the exceptions. Most are strewn with rocks and require you to watch your step carefully. A good rule of thumb is the more difficult the portage, the less traffic it will see.

At the days end if it looks like bad weather, be sure to tie your canoe to a tree so it can't blow away. I've had squalls come through that have put inches of water in a canoe overnight. It's not difficult to tilt and empty unless your canoe is under a tree. Literally. Ever since then, I've turned the canoe over.

I don't like to push hard when canoeing. I will paddle for 3-6 hours, find a camp and stay there for a couple of days. Repeat this three times and you could easily cover anywhere from 20-50 miles on your trip. If you strike camp every day you could likely double those numbers on a seven day trip. For every vacation you'll have to decide between traveling from one EP to another or circling around just one. Base camping and taking day trips to other lakes is another great option.

By virtue of when I camp I am what you call a wet-footer. I happily get my feet wet. Try getting out of those soggy shoes and socks as reasonably fast as you can. My feet have gone mushy and taken hours to firm back up. If you've ever spent all day in the pool (preferably at the bar) you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. Can you keep your feet dry? Absolutely, just use neoprene socks, hip waders or other tall waterproof boots. And a little fancy footwork. If you camp before or after the regular season you will need to keep dry; the water gets really cold!

boundary waters gear 

These are shirts, coffee mugs, bumper stickers and other items that I have designed or photographed. They feature a unique Boundary Waters theme to remind us of the Wilderness we love.

Red Heart Boundary Waters Black T-Shirt

from Boundary Waters Gear

Boundary Waters Gear most popular shirt! Available in many colors to suit your mood.

Price: 20.99

Boundary Waters License Plate Frame

from Boundary Waters Gear

Another very popular item for those who canoe the Wilderness in the BWCA. Honk if you see one!

Price: 11.99

Canoe on Water

from Boundary Waters Gear

Newly added in 2008 enjoy your coffee, tea or favorite beverage while showing off.

Price: 13.99

Boundary Waters Butterfly

from Boundary Waters Gear

A mug with one of the ubiquitous butterfly's I see on every summer trip to the Boundary Waters.

Price: 13.99

Are you ready? Mug

from Boundary Waters Gear

One of several coffee mugs that BWCA canoeists purchase. Perfect for home and the Office.

Price: 12.99

Boundary Waters Fishing! 

You can fish in the BWCA?

The fishing! The Fishing! Wow! Do I love fishing in the BWCA. Up here the fishing can be amazing. I believe you can take that one step farther and have on great occasion, an unbelievable day. It is not unheard of to have 100+ fish in a day (scroll down to Arkansas Man, then scroll down more to look at pics!). In fact, you can believe any story you've heard about fishing up here. Trust me, I love to fish and tell stories.

Get a fishing license before you go - one less thing to do before hitting the water.

To help you succeed on this quest, I can not recommend strongly enough Mike Furtman's book. This is like the bible of fishing for the BWCA. Read this, bring it with you and have a great time. It has strategies and tackle suggestions for fishing the main species: Northern Pike, Walleye, Smallmouth Bass and Lake Trout. A brief mention of places to cast for stream trout is also included.

Furtman's book includes a lake index with species present and "how to fillet a fish without butchering it."

When I clean fish, I find a place that's a ways from any campsite and butcher just like anywhere else. Paddle's are good for more than just dippin': you can carefully clean fish on one. Or since you might find it more comfortable, try using the bottom of your canoe (after flipping it, lol). Both are handy surfaces for slicing your fish on. Return the fillets to camp in the pan or ziploc you sagely brought. I have used the technique in Furtman's book for Pike successfully. There was butchering involved though, heh.

The fish remains should be left on the forest floor away from: camp, shore, trails and portages.

Be careful with your fishing gear when portaging! I do not break down my rods but I do remove hooks and lures before departure. If you don't fish when traveling, bungee your rods under the seats and leave them there. I think they are safer if they never leave the canoe. Be aware and careful when you load or unload the canoes.

Rod cases are used by many anglers. I suggest you bungee them under the seats and leave them there. Unless you are going to fish while you travel.

The die hard fisher folk never stop fishing. Trolling while traveling. Leech on a slip bobber while camping. Add bells if sleeping. I suggest you bungee your rods under the seats, unbroken down, on portages. One less loose thing and more safe for the rod in my opinion.

My Boundary Waters Fishing Tackle 

Enough to get the job done

• A selection of 1/16 to 1/4 ounce jig heads in a few finishes. Clean the eyelets of paint before you go.
• A Mepps #5 Aglia bucktail, a Mepps #3/#5 Aglia in orange and a Mepps #3/#5 Black fury with yellow dots.
• A choice of South bend spinners.
• Rapala jointed J-9 in black/silver and firetiger finishes.
• Rapala jointed J-11 in black/silver and firetiger finishes.
• Rapala unjointed J-13 in silver/black or firetiger.
• Rebel Pop R
• A Jitterbug
• Rebel Big Craw (green and black) in a medium runner.
• A Heddon baby torpedo
• A couple of Daredevil spoons, one original finish the other yellow/red finish (five of diamonds).
• I like Southbend's invisi-leaders in 4 and 6 inch lengths, around 12-14 lbs strength.
• Lindy rigs for walleye if you know how to fish them.
• 2 or 3 of your favorite crankbaits in medium/deep runners.
• A couple of buzz baits.
• Soft baits - Yum, Gulp, Powerbait etc. I'm partial to the 4" curly tails in chartreuse and the 3" and 4" Power leech.
• Live bait: leeches, crawlers and minnows are great. You just have to keep them alive. Tons of folk bring live bait. There are several baitshops in both Ely and Grand Marais. Tell them what you want and where you are going. Ask for instructions on keeping it alive and they will do their best to set you up right.
• Rods, reels and line - bring what you are comfortable using.
• I use a Plano Guide tacklebox.

A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide 

This small book will help you catch fish if you are unfamiliar with angling in the Northwoods. Tips on the fish and where to catch them, what to put in your tacklebox and how to fish what you put there. This is a short, well written book by Furtman that will, if you need it, give a good outline on how to fish in the Boundary Waters. I certainly found it useful and interesting, I think you will too!

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A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide by Michael J. Furtman

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A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide by Michael Furtman

Finally an updated version of the fisherman's bible for the Boundary Waters! A BWCA book that should find its way onto your bookshelf.1 point

How to Fillet a Northern Pike 

Easy as 1 2 3

How to Fillet a Walleye 

How to Fillet a Bass 

Give Me Shelter 

No shortage of stones

Any put-in is good during a storm, but camping is limited to designated sites in the Park. You can easily identify them by: the fire grate, nearby pit latrine and the red spot on your map. If you plan on using a GPS unit, Peter Berbee has published some GPS data and maps for the BWCA which you can find here.

The earlier you can claim your camp the better. The pickin's will get mighty slim by early afternoon on popular lakes. Good sites will have a nice view and most importantly (to me) a breeze - camping on a point usually gets you both.

The days of cutting boughs and making a sweet bed of fragrant cedar have passed us by. I sleep on a Thermarest pad. If you use an outfitter you will get a pad and a nice tent to sleep in. I'm provided a Eureka Timberline Outfitter tent. I know others who have used: a bivy sack, tarp and sleeping bag, a hammock.

Once landed at a campsite make sure it is large enough to suit your needs. Tent pads are simply nice places to set up your tent. On most campsites during the summer it wont be too difficult to discern where tents go and how many will fit.

Click here to hear loons, frogs and birds in a Northwoods serenade. The only thing missing are the wolves, which if you are lucky you may get to hear.

A good tarp is an important item in your pack. This will give you a place besides your tent to sit and stay out of the elements. Your Outfitter should supply you with at least two. Ask to make sure and verify they are in the pack before leaving. Know some knots to tie this down before you get rained on or have sunstroke.

If you have a backpacking hammock be sure to bring it! You'll enjoy hanging around lakeside watching the world slip on by. Some campers forgo the tent and sleep in a hammock. The Hennessy brand is the most used and talked about in the forums.

The only way to ensure solitude out here is to camp on a lake with one campsite. Many dead end and smaller lakes offer just that. Difficult portages also help winnow the people out. If your travels lead you to such a place, don't be too disappointed if someone fishes your lake or simply passes by looking for the same solitude.

Man I'm Thirsty, Where's the Water? 

You're spitting over the side into our water supply buddy

Now, I have drunk directly from many lakes. I'm acquainted with folks who have done the same their entire lives and never been sick. Some caveats to employ: never on the EP lake, no beaver present, from the center of the lake, no turbulence and taken at elbow depth. Will you get sick? Maybe - there's always that chance...that's why I filter the water 99% of the time.

I use a Katadyn Guide water filter. It's easy to use and semi-field maintainable. If you are stranded, filterless, you can always boil your water. If you don't own a water filter don't fret, your Outfitter will lend you one - but you will need to purchase a filter. If it's like mine it could set you back $35. Sadly it could still filter another 200+ gallons of water by trips end. That's why after a couple of years I bought my own.

Once camp is made someone is sent to the middle of the lake to pump. We go towards the center expecting there to be fewer large particulates. If the water is really muddy or gritty, say from a river, a disposable white coffee filter secured across the water intake will extend the filter life. If you hate pumping water check out this Katadyn gravity filter.

For our personal water we each carry a nalgene bottle. Fill these up before you leave. We also bring a collapsible water bladder for camp. I will tell you not to fill this up beforehand. It might sound like a great idea not to have to pump water, but I think that's easier than humping all that water around. This past summer when temperatures were in the mid 90's I ignored my own advice. Don't take the chance of getting dehydrated! I did and it took me 3/4 of a day to recover. Our group of six finished all our personal waters' and a two gallon bladder after one short and one long portage. The rest of the trip I had to take extra care to stay well hydrated. Let circumstances and personal comfort levels dictate your choices.

If you are still squeamish, purification tablets are available to kill everything in the water. Most likely your water will have a tint, not to worry. These are merely the tannins from leaves and trees. Just like tea. Filter enough water to get you through breakfast the next day. Don't forget the coffee! Every cup I brew up here tastes better than anything I'll ever buy from a coffee shop.

Please take note that in the BWCA glass and metal containers are prohibited. The only exception is the metal cannister holding the fuel for your stove.

My Boundary Waters Water Filter 

What I own and use in the BWCA

When you return from your trip, don't forget to clean the filter using a little bleach and water. I usually use a bit more water and bleach then the instructions call for - 1 quart of water and 3 tablespoons of bleach. To speed drying I leave the casing cracked open in a place where contamination is unlikely. When it's dry, close it up and pack it away.

When you go to use it again sure to pump some water through it first before using - at least a pint (again I go for a quart).

Fetching new data from eBay now... please stand by

The Food Pack 

Take what you've got the brawn to haul

You are the mighty beast of burden for your crew, laddie. The food pack is securely strapped to your back so nary a bear or pine marten, however fierce or tenacious, could under any circumstances separate you from ...

... the bacon!


Tucked beneath your aluminum canoe the portage beckons. A dirt and boulder strewn floor with bark walls that dims away to an emerald twilight. A happy smile graces your mug as you step off. Part way through your 300 rod trek the of snapping branches off in the woods sets your heart a-pounding. By the sound of it whole trees are being cracked in half. Your knees start pistoning up and down, becoming drunken boxers throwing stiff jabs at your rapidly swelling chin. You begin to believe you'll do Leno proud.

Squinting through sweat stung orbs you peel off glances for hungry eyes floating off the portage. From your gaping mouth the air chuffs rapidly. Someone lied to you about the total lack of logging and industry. Just out of sight a steam locomotive has fired up and is loudly under the stress of a heavy load. They probably take canoes! Behind, your paddling partner is pummeling the blue bear barrel with abandon. Something in your chest is keeping time with the outside world.

As you pound down the portage mosquitoes start drilling in the only spot dry enough for them to grasp - your tongue. Meanwhile a never-ending supply of black flies arrive for an impromptu jamboree with your molars. Spitting and hacking, you decorate your voyageur beard with the detritus of partygoers who overstayed.

In its yoke you swing the canoe in amazing gymnastic arcs worthy of a Cirque du Soleil performer. Despite their best efforts to scatter you indiscriminately bequeath hapless trees and rocks with aluminum slivers. Still more vegetation not fast enough is left smashed and bewildered in your wake. Above, the whiskeyjacks look on in envy as you navigate near vertical drops. Who knew canoes had parachute qualities? You burst from the woods a grotesque silver-plated crab scuttling for the safety of water.

In the cool depths lie Northern Pike. An untrained eye would mistake them for suspended logs. I believe they consider taking down small campers foolish enough to try treading their waters. Why the mere flick of a tail from such beasts sends two foot waves crashing to shore.

Just exaggerating of course, you don't have to worry about bears and pine martens. But those Pike..

Camp Kitchen 

If you don't cook you get to wash!

An Outfitter will send you a menu many weeks, if not months ahead of departure to choose your meals. Feel free to double up or scratch out whatever you want a few times. The great unwashed outfitted masses get the usually tasty commercial stuff. 'Ware the plain eggs though. If you dehydrate your own food this is a great way to go. Total control of the menu. Most likely you will get a white gas stove to heat your water up on. If you've never used one before try lighting it several times at the Outfitters. My only hint is make certain you cover the hole on the pump rod - no matter how hard it is to push in.

Well, you hauled all that stuff in and now it's time to chow. Get the water boiling! Many Outfitters will send a frozen steak or chicken dinner with their paddlers for the first dinner. In late May one year our steaks didn't thaw out till the 3rd day! The Outfitter will have thoughtfully filled your food pack in a most logical manner - the order you will eat it. On my trips this lasts about two days when someone didn't get enough of something and raids tomorrow's supplies. Usually for cookies.

I like to prepare and cook everything at once. Read the packages to see how much water you will have to boil in total. Cover the pan with a plate to hasten boiling and save fuel. Have your garbage bag ready to accept the castoffs. Learn enough o-chem and you'll never burn plastic again. Pack it out. Cook the food per instructions and enjoy your meal! Don't forget to pick up your aluminum foil, including the hot chocolate packets you threw in the fire.

Go on up into the woods about a hundred yards or so with all your dishes, a towel and water. Stay as far from the waters edge as you can. Wash them. If you use unfiltered water to rinse, I've heard tell some folks like to dip the clean dishes in boiling water. I don't do that last step myself, you'll have to decide. Leave leftovers (including fish guts..see above), plus the wash water in a shallow trench on the forest floor. Don't leave any kind of SOS pad/scrubber there. Cover the area with floor litter to minimize your impact on the area. Anything you leave will be gone in short order. Don't throw food in the pit latrine ever!

Ask to be shown how to hang your food pack to keep it safe from the very infrequent bear. Leave your pack hung when not in use. You'll probably see the blue bear barrel. Odorproof = no hanging. Your Outfitter will supply a means to hang your pack along with all the necessary items to cook and serve your meals.

Hang your garbage in or with your food pack. I also re-hang the foodpack or seal the bear barrel when cooking. I don't ever want to be caught with the larder wide open, ready to be devoured by a woodland omnivore. By the way, those blue barrels are not bearproof, so don't clean fish on them. Or leave bacon on the lid.

I believe if anything attacks the food pack it will be some sort of rodent. But all it takes is one bear. On that note, don't bring or eat food in your tent.

The Boundary Waters on YouTube! 

Reminding you of the best place to be in the world.

Any day in the BWCA is better than any day at work (except maybe retirement.)

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Triangle Flies and Other Bugs 

Keep yer mouth shut so nothing flies in!

I use Deep Woods Off (40% DEET) in the BWCA. I've also tried 3M's Ultrathon lotion. It worked as well as the DW and I didn't apply it as often. The DW Off and Ultrathon keeps the critters at bay except the flies. The black ones generally don't bite, they merely buzz in a mad race to see who can fly around you the fastest. The littler triangle flies are well adapted to the removal of flesh from humans. The horse flies merely bite out a chunk of you and fly off with it.

I've also pre-treated my clothes with spray on permethrin. I've found this particularly effective against ticks acquired during portages. I didn't have a single tick latch onto me this past trip. A downside for me is that permethrin is highly toxic to fish (and cats). I was careful not to rinse treated clothing in the lakes and special care was taken at home so as not to expose the family pets.

A few paddlers on the B-boards claim they found the cure to flies. I won't take the joy of paddling through the Boards away from you. One year, my crew made a game of smacking down and throwing the carcasses at each other. One hint - the big black ones often fly to the highest point of a person. The triangle flies (deer flies) just bite you. When the Army Worms are infesting the flies are worse, the severity depending on the infestation. Another good thing to ask your Outfitter about.

From early June into July seems to be the worst, but it can vary depending on that year's weather. The skeeters and flies may appear sooner or hang around later if conditions are right. The only time I've been nearly bug free is in late May, just after the fishing opener. I bet it's near the same come September, but have never been.

You will usually find refuge from the bugs on the water. The farther you are from the shore the less bugged you will be. If the flies are really bad don't ever expect to be left alone until you climb into your tent. And kill everything that flew in with you.

I've never experienced the bugs so bad it drove me onto the water - I just haven't been there at the right time, rest assured. We check for ticks daily as I hate these hitchhikers.

Clothes for the Boundary Waters 

Summer camping in the BWCA

In my opinion weather comes in three varieties in the Boundary Waters: 1) just beautiful; 2) cold and raining; or 3) hot and sweaty. Variations of this can occur in the same day. During the summer be prepared for up to a 30+ degree differential. Before mid-June and after late August it can get pretty chilly in these Northern locales, so bring warmer gear.

Raingear is a requirement. It can be as simple as a poncho provided by your Outfitter to a pricier Gore-tex suit you bring. You will need something so make sure it's handy in a pack - on top! Raingear will likely be good wind protection too. Nights, even in summer, can slip into the low 40's and dip lower. At the very least you want to be able to layer up. In late May I have worn every stitch of clothing I brought. The very next day I was in shorts. It's like that.

Generally I'll wear the same clothes for a couple of days before rinsing them out. In my pack you'll find two: t-shirts (wicking if you got 'em), biking (compression) shorts and hats; one each: a thermal/waffle shirt, nylon shorts, conversion pants and a fleece jacket (which doubles as my pillow with the waffle shirt - put them in the sleeping bag stuff sack). Three pairs of Merino wool socks and don't forget a small towel (HGTTG). Water and camp shoes complete my summer ensemble. No matter how long my trip is these are all the clothes I bring.

For water shoes I wear Rocky hydro-ports which double as my portage shoes. They are basically gym shoes with built in drainage. Other brands I've seen canoeists wearing are Chota and Teva. I suspect the most used water shoe of all is the old gym shoe. Everyone seems to have a pair and they generally aren't missed when tossed at trips end. Flip-flops and sandals can be great for camp but you'll be sorely tempting the fates if you wear them on portages. Don't risk a sprained ankle in the Wilderness no matter how much you like to defy common sense.

Fabrics that are quick drying and maintain their warmth while wet are well suited for the Boundary Waters. Clothes are heavy and can take up quite a bit of space so pack with the intent of bringing just what you'll need. If something is dirty enough, a good rinse in the lake should cure any problems. Fashion is not an issue but some people can still manage to make a statement.

Learn about hypothermia and avoid this adventure ruiner.

Northwoods Guestbook 

By all means put fingers to keys

Lorie I fish Maine waters and consider this lens to be awesome! Thanks, I enjoyed it! Lorie Posted May 09, 2008

Jimi gmarlett, The skeeters can be downright vicious during the summer if you happen to visit at the right time. The black flies are present can also be irritating, especially if the army worms are bad that year. Both are survivable and haven't yet interfered with my vacations. :) Posted May 01, 2008

gmarlett Very nice lens. How are the mosquitos in the BW and are there blackflies as well? Posted May 01, 2008

irishlass You make me feel ready for an outdoor adventure! Great lens! Posted April 30, 2008

NooNoo This lens is great, very informative, I love this lens. John Email Marketing Elite Posted April 20, 2008

 

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Some Things We Bring 

By No Means Exhaustive

• Sunscreen - Badger SPF 30+ is my pick.
• Trail Mix
• First aid kit - a good one.
• Antacid/pepto/laxative
• Aluminum foil to bake fish in.
• Several feet of duct tape wrapped around a lighter.
• Multi-tool
• Bungee cords
• Soft or flat style tackle box
• Compass/GPS
• Chapstick/lip balm
• Emergency blankets
• Camp chairs for everyone who wants one.
• Polarized sunglasses.
• A spare paddle.
• Binoculars
• Headlamp/flashlight for each person. We each have a Petzl MYO 3 and bring a pen size MagLite.
• Unscented baby wipes. Marvelous for cleaning up when you can't go for a swim.

Boundary Waters Chores 

What? You think the dishes wash themselves?

Boundary Waters Chore Call! 

Line 'em up and square 'em away.

Temi-Odurinde Never been on canoe for a long time, pictures and info on your site wants me want to go on one :) Keep up the good work. Posted April 02, 2008

bdkz What an amazing lens. I love the photos! 5 Stars and a Squid Angel Blessing! Posted March 28, 2008

DarrenW Great lens, I enjoy staying with you. BOOKMARKED! Posted March 18, 2008

 

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The Duluth Pack 

And other bags.

The Duluth pack at its simplest is merely a canvas bag with straps. With origins reaching back to the fur traders, this is a pack truly meant to hold a whole lotta stuff. Here is a pack that definitely lends itself to canoe camping.

As you can see in the photo you can wear a bag front and back when portaging. An incredible timesaver - try that with a North Face backpack. Fill these bad boys in vertical rows with loose stuff on top. This way the pack adjusts to your back much easier.

Some folks insist on the extra weight of a dry sack. This is fine if you absolutely require something remains dry (camera!). I usually use plain white garbage bags. While this is not "waterproofing," I've yet to have something wrapped this way come out of the pack soaked. Maybe a little damp, but never wet. It might also be worthy to note I've never swamped a loaded canoe. Knock on wood!

We also place each individual sleeping bag in a kitchen garbage bag. The sleeping bags are compressible and mummy style rated to at least thirty-two degrees for the summer. If you are camping in the spring or fall I would suggest you bring a bag rated at least to zero. Draft tubes are a nice product feature to help avoid the cold. If you don't like mummy style bags, ask your Outfitter if they have a square style bag available.

I would only recommend synthetic bags, which is what your Outfitter will likely provide. While down is certainly warm and light, once it becomes wet it's a problem. Synthetics usually dry faster and may still keep you warm even if wet. You'll have to choose what you think is best.

If you are partial outfitting or doing it all yourself and can single portage, then by all means use your favorite backpack. Some packs might be a hassle with the yoke. Check that out before you're wandering down the first portage. It's a headache you can easily avoid.

Hiking in the Boundary Waters 

There is a way if you're not on the water

There are a few trails that you can hike in the BWCA. The first one that comes to mind is also the best maintained, the Kekekabic Trail. It stretches from the Gunflint Trail near Grand Marais on the East side to the Snowbank Lake trailhead, or Fernburg near Ely on the West end. The Border Route Trail is another longer trail but is not entirely contained in the BWCA.

Besides numerous smaller trails in the Park, other attractions include: Pow Wow Trail, Angleworm Lake, Magnetic Rock, Sioux/Hustler, Herriman Trail and Eagle Mountain. The Kekekabic Trail Club has a listing of all the trails in the BWCA and SNF here.

When traveling by canoe we always take several hikes from our campsite. There are many relics from the different industries that once occupied the area. Mostly you will find old, abandoned equipment used in logging. Occasionally you will come across decrepit cabins or their foundations. If near an old lodge, expect a garbage heap. Pop-tops and church-ring cans along with old tins of, what else, Dinty Moore stew. Each is its own little archaeological dig showing a window to the past.

Message and B-boards 

To help answer those questions that keep popping up.

The messageboards are an excellent place to glean knowledge from those in the know. Search each site with your questions. Better yet join and ask if you can't find 'em!