Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness

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The Boundary Waters

Think solitude and friends...The gentle ripples of water as the canoe glides through...


The boink and ploink of water falling from raised blades...

A loon wails its plaintive cry...

That steady hum in your ears is made by a gazillion mosquitoes exiting their forest lair to drain your body to a husk...

Gods I love this place.

This site is geared for folks looking forward to their first trip in the Boundary Waters. I hope to pass along some of the basics I've learned plus resources to help get you on the water. Please practice the "Leave no trace" principles when visiting. I do.


A Short Boundary Waters History

Because I know you wanted to know

The BWCAW and a very large surrounding area were carved out by ice sheets over several glaciations during the ice ages. Upon retreat of the last glacier the Canadian Shield was left exposed.Canadian Shield That rock is from the Precambrian and previous era's so you have the possibility of discovering stony material from 540 million years to over 4 billion years of age. It is patiently awaiting your arrival.

This is a Boreal Forest with plants and animals representative of that biome. The BWCA is also a home to many birds and a destination itself for birders. Native Americans likely settled the area shortly after the forest reclaimed the land following the last glaciation. Petroglyphs and pictographs are still visible and visitable in some areas. When the Europeans arrived it was the Ojibwe who were living here.

In 1909 President Roosevelt set aside the Superior National Forest. Additional purchases and annexations over the next half century allowed the SNF to flourish. The BWCA name was adopted in 1958. The Park was designated in 1964 as Wilderness under the Wilderness Act. The Act was put in force over local opposition in 1978, severely curtailing motorized travel in the Park. Today there is no mining, logging, or motorized traffic in the vast majority of the BWCA.

The Superior National Forest covers an area over 3.5 million acres and encompasses a majority of the area between Lake Superior and the Canadian Border. The BWCAW is a near million acre jewel caught in the crown of the SNF. By royal decree Canada created Quetico Park in 1913. It is another designated Wilderness that girds the BWCA to its North.

You may have noticed the BWCA loses the last W. That's just the way it is. Click here for links to more history. If you are interested in purchasing books about the history, fauna or flora check my picks for each.

Map of the Forest

Reflected campfire and spinning starsThe map link below does not show the lakes, just what the BWCA and the Superior National Forest encompass in Northeastern Minnesota.
Big Map
A large map of Minnesota showing the Forest.

About Outfitters

Knowledgeable folks who want to help you!

The Outfitters who offer services are almost entirely grouped around two localities. In the East you will find most of the Outfitters in Grand Marais. On the West side of the BWCA most of them are gathered around Ely (say E-lee).

Shore lunch on the way to Gun LakeUnless you are seasoned in Wilderness camping of some sort, I suggest using an Outfitter the first time. They are in the business of making your trip memorable. Order 3-4 brochures and do some comparing. Call or e-mail your questions to your Outfitter choices. Inquire if you can take a shower after your trip - a really nice perk! Talking with the Outfitters will help you choose one.

With your Outfitter picks discuss your groups experience level, interests and desires for the trip. Is it all about fishing? Maybe scenery, solitude, photography or ? Some routes are better suited to certain activities then others. It will cost you a few bucks but have an Outfitter or two send you some maps of possible routes ahead of time. You'll spend hours going over the routes yourself and with your crew. Have fun!

Would you like some examples of possible trips? Check out BWCA.com's very nice feature for canoe route planning. Read the trip reports for exact lakes traveled. You'll find the camping spots and portages marked (I suggest using the flash version). Here is another map set, zoomable and very nicely put together by Voyaguer Maps.

Most Outfitter's offer three levels of service or some combination of them. You can choose to be completely outfitted, partially outfitted, or just rent a canoe. If available, I'd tell you to stay at their bunkhouse the night before your trip. Drop off and pickup service to and from the Entry Points (EP's) should be included or available for a fee. If you are only renting a canoe, ask for a rooftop canoe harness - it might be free.

past sunsetIf you go the fully outfitted route, your Outfitter will give you a list of what you'll need to bring. You'll also get a list of exactly what you'll be taking into the Wilderness. Should you not see something expected on that list ask your Outfitter about it. If you want to use some of your own equipment feel absolutely free. As you accumulate gear, your outfitting costs will decline as you move away from being fully outfitted. I'd suggest hitting up your Outfitter for quality used gear.

Ely Area Outfitters I Know

Duane's Outfitters
Duane's Outfitters
Run by the Hanson Family, Jim and son Bret will help make your trip smooth and memorable. This is my Outfitter choice. No frills, bells, or whistles just rock solid equipment and one-on-one trip planning. Ask to use the Finnish sauna before showering on your return. Cook your morning departure meal in the Outdoor Kitchen (you clean up!) or have some danishes and coffee after spending the night in the bunkhouse. Pick up a piece of forgotten tackle or purchase some BWCA memorabilia in the small store. Located in Babbitt, Minn.
Voyageur North Outfitters
Run by the O'Kane Family, Lynn and John are experts in everything concerning the BWCA. In my opinion this is one of the premier outfitters of Ely proper, with nothing but praise coming to my ears about their business. Stay in the bunkhouse the night before to get an early start! You can pick up your live bait at the VNO bait shop and purchase forgotten items in the store.

Leave No Trace Principles

The way to travel in the Wilderness

On Oyster Lake in the early evening
  • Plan and prepare.
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces.
  • Dispose of waste properly.
  • Leave what you find.
  • Minimize campfire impact.
  • Respect wildlife.
  • Be considerate of other visitors.

Boundary Waters Permits

I Need a Miracle! Can I get a permit during my vacation?

Entry into the BWCA is limited in two ways. First, you must have a permit to enter the park during the regular season. No kidding! You can either ask your Outfitter to apply for you or do it yourself online. Secondly, permits are limited to a small number of parties per Entry Point, per day. You must enter the Park on the date of your permit, at your EP - no if's, and's or but's.

Summer permits are issued by lottery in mid January for Fall Lake and Moose Lake ONLY. You can apply from December 19th to January 19th, with the lottery being held on January 20th. All other Entry Points are available on a first come/first serve basis starting at 9:00am on January 25th. You'll have to cruise the Forest Service's site looking for open permits or you can ask your Outfitter to do this for you.

Hudson Lake '04Parties are limited in size to nine members and four canoes or kayaks. That's it! Any more, anywhere may earn you a ticket from an unexpected Forest Service employee. Keep your permit and fishing license handy. Your presence in the Park will be verified if you encounter them.

On October 1st the regular season is over. The need for reserving a permit also evaporates. At this point you may self-issue a permit. They might be available at the EP or you may need to stop by the Rangers office to fill one out. It would be best to contact the FS first and find out. Keep a copy and put one in the Ranger's box (or wherever you're instructed to place their copy). That's it!

When is the best time to go? Well, that will depend on a number of things. If the bugs drive you nutty, that's covered below. If you like to swim in "warm" water I'd suggest the end of July into August. Looking to avoid the crowds? Long portages and cooler weather will be your friend. Late May, very early June or after September are good times to hit the water. The fall colors are an absolute pleasure to enjoy in the Boundary Waters. Fishing is great most of the time and the smallmouth action never seems to end.

Shell Lake '07Camping in the Boundary Waters during the Winter can be a blast! Search the bulletin boards for trip reports. This will give you a perspective of the Forest that the vast majority will never see. At least one Outfitter offers mushing during the winter.

Many of us who visit the Boundary Waters have a long drive. From personal experience, after driving for 11+ hours, I'm in zombie mode. I split the drive up into 2 legs so that everyone can get a decent nights rest before heading out to the EP at the crack of dawn. Not that anyone sleeps much the night before.

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Waiting for the Stars on Fourtown Lake 

BWCA Fire Ban Information, Closings & Webcams

Live images from and around the Boundary Waters

Spinning stars over Oyster LakeThe latest information on fires, closures and restrictions is available from the SNF and the MnDNR.

You can view live pictures from the west side of the BWCA. You can look at a few lakes and downtown Ely. There is another camera where you can get high resolution images. You can zoom in, out and save shots too!

Canoes and Portage Etiquette in the BWCA

Byways of the Wilderness

Canoes are best chosen from experience. If you have it, 'nuff said. If you're lacking in this department, rent one from an Outfitter and with their help choose the canoe that best fits your inexperience. Then pick out a paddle.

One of the most quoted ways I've heard to size yourself for a paddle is this: sit down on a bench and measure the distance from your nose straight down to the bench. Make that a round number and then add 24-26 inches for total paddle length. The paddle I like to use is a few inches shorter than figured above. Take it with a grain of salt.

If you're unsure on how to don and release your new canoehat, ask to be shown and then practice until you get it right. You might also ask about the "walk up" method for heavier canoes. If you have a paddling partner that is by far the easiest way to do it. While you're at it, find out how to properly load and balance the canoe at the Outfitters. Get your answers now and don't be shy about asking questions no matter how nonsensical it may sound in your ears. Once you hit the water you'll be on your own.

For the new BWCA paddledipper I would wager you get a tried and true Grumman or Alumacraft Quetico aluminum canoe. These are great canoes that are very forgiving. Just so you know they weigh in around 80 pounds give or take. Don't try running any rapids even using these beasts in the BWCA. The portages are there for a reason, just check some of the video below to see what happens when you ignore common sense.

MN4 canoe after rapids
Photo Courtesy Lynn O'Kane of Voyageur North Outfitters.

The earlier you start in the morning the less wind you get - usually. If it's so windy you're afraid to leave you are wind bound. It happens. Unless you are confident in a canoe defer your departure. Don't worry about the Outfitter. They'll be back, likely same time next day. The only exception to this is your entry date. You must enter the Boundary Waters on your date, at your EP.

I've been taught that it is good manners to hang out on the lake while others are exiting or entering a portage - less confusion and no chance to mix gear. This will likely be impossible at well used portages like the Number Lakes(EP#30) so don't sweat it. Consider putting colored tape or bandannas on your packs so you and other canoeists can easily identify them.

Don't throw your gear out all willy-nilly when unloading. If you do, someone will pop out of the woods and into your minefield. Try not to be too surprised when you walk into that minefield. At each end of the portage pile all your gear including the canoe(s) to one side of the landing. If the landing is tight, stow it up the portage off to the side. Times are you'll meet people coming the other way. Please give people carrying canoes the right of way when met on the portage. Some folks are either too excited or were never taught manners. I avoid the temptation of pointing that out to other travelers.

Canoe on the waterHoisting up and releasing your canoe is most easily accomplished on the lake in my opinion. It may be the landing is full when you arrive so put it down near the landing, set it off the portage until a space opens up. I load and unload the canoe in the water, never on land. On some landings, when the mud is up to my thigh, I'll fill the canoe in the shallower mud and slide it out. Extricating yourself from that situation can't help but be amusing to anyone watching. Laugh with them. You could be at work. A good maxim to keep in mind: The fewer loose things you have in the canoe the happier you will be.

To help you gauge portage difficulty Quiet Journey members have compiled a portage database. The Rook site has a list of many BWCA lakes plus links to the Minnesota DNR. Portages can be like a paved path, smooth and with only a moderate pitch. Those are the exceptions. Most are strewn with rocks and require you to watch your step carefully. A good rule of thumb is the more difficult the portage, the less traffic it will see.

One windy, late evening a tree almost fell on usAt the days end if it looks like bad weather, be sure to tie your canoe to a tree so it can't blow away. I've had squalls come through that have put inches of water in a canoe overnight. It's not difficult to tilt and empty unless your canoe is under a tree. Literally. Ever since then, I've turned the canoe over.

I don't like to push hard when canoeing. I will paddle for 3-6 hours, find a camp and stay there for a couple of days. Repeat this three times and you could easily cover anywhere from 20-50 miles on your trip. If you strike camp every day you could likely double those numbers on a seven day trip. For every vacation you'll get to decide between traveling from one EP to another or circling around just one. Base camping and taking day trips to other lakes is another great option.

By virtue of when I camp I am what you call a wet-footer. I happily get my feet wet. Try getting out of those soggy shoes and socks as reasonably fast as you can. My feet have gone mushy and taken hours to firm back up. If you've ever spent all day in the pool (preferably at the bar) you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. Can you keep your feet dry? Absolutely, just use neoprene socks, hip waders or other tall waterproof boots. And a little fancy footwork. If you camp before or after the regular season you will need to keep dry; the water gets really cold!

Portaging a Canoe

How to don your new canoehat

Just a few short videos of folks picking up their canoes.
Boundary Waters Portage
by canoejack | video info

29 ratings | 20,764 views
curated content from YouTube

Boundary Waters Fishing!

You can fish in the BWCA?

Bass at duskThe fishing! The Fishing! Wow! Do I love fishing in the BWCA. Up here the fishing can be amazing. I believe you can take that one step farther and have on great occasion, an unbelievable day. It is not unheard of to have 100+ fish in a day (scroll down to Arkansas Man, then scroll down more to look at pics!). In fact, you can believe any story you've heard about fishing up here. Trust me, I love to fish and tell stories.

My bro with a small Norton'Get a fishing license before you go - one less thing to do before hitting the water.

To help you succeed on this quest, I can not recommend strongly enough Mike Furtman's book. This is like the bible of fishing for the BWCA. Read this, bring it with you and have a great time. It has strategies and tackle suggestions for fishing the main species: Northern Pike, Walleye, Smallmouth Bass and Lake Trout. A brief mention of places to cast for stream trout is also included.



Boundary Waters Fishing BookFurtman's book includes a lake index with species present and "how to fillet a fish without butchering it."

When I clean fish, I find a place that's a ways from any campsite and butcher just like anywhere else. Paddle's are good for more than just dippin': you can carefully clean fish on one. Or since you might find it more comfortable, try using the bottom of your aluminum canoe (after flipping it, lol). Both are handy surfaces for slicing your fish on. Return the fillets to camp in the pan or ziploc you sagely brought. I have used the technique in Furtman's book for Pike successfully. There was butchering involved though, heh.

The fish remains should be left on the forest floor away from: camp, shore, trails and portages.

Be careful with your fishing gear when portaging! I do not break down my rods but I do remove hooks and lures before departure. If you don't fish when traveling, bungee your rods under the seats and leave them there. I think they are safer if they never leave the canoe. Be aware and careful when you load or unload the canoe.

If you are hardcore, never stop fishing. Trolling while in a canoe. Leech on a slip bobber in camp. Add bells if sleeping? I suggest you bungee your rods under the seats, unbroken down, on portages. One less loose thing and more safe for the rod in my opinion. Rod cases are used by many anglers. I suggest you bungee them under the seats and leave them there.

My Boundary Waters Fishing Tackle

Enough to get the job done

My list is made of lures that have worked for me. I purchased and tried them based on the recommendations of what anglers on the boards found successful. It's no coincidence these accurately reflect Furtman's suggestions.

tacklebox top tacklebox bottom

  • A selection of 1/16 to 1/4 ounce jig heads in a few finishes. Clean the eyelets of paint before you go.
  • A Mepps #5 Aglia bucktail, a Mepps #3/#5 Aglia in orange and a Mepps #3/#5 Black fury with yellow dots.
  • A choice of South bend spinners.
  • Rapala jointed J-9 in black/silver and firetiger finishes.
  • Rapala jointed J-11 in black/silver and firetiger finishes.
  • Rapala unjointed J-13 in silver/black or firetiger.
  • Rebel Pop R
  • A Jitterbug
  • Rebel Big Craw (green and black) in a medium runner.
  • A Heddon baby torpedo
  • A couple of Daredevil spoons, one original finish the other yellow/red finish (five of diamonds).
  • I like Southbend's invisi-leaders in 4 and 6 inch lengths, around 12-14 lbs strength.
  • Lindy rigs for walleye if you know how to fish them.
  • 2 or 3 of your favorite crankbaits in medium/deep runners.
  • A couple of buzz baits.
  • Soft baits - Yum, Gulp, Powerbait etc. I'm partial to the 4" curly tails in chartreuse and the 3" and 4" Power leech.
  • Live bait: leeches, crawlers and minnows are great. You just have to keep them alive. Tons of folk bring it in. There are several baitshops in both Ely and Grand Marais. Tell them what you want and where you are going. Ask for instructions on keeping it alive and they will do their best to set you up right.
  • Rods, reels and line - bring what you are comfortable using.
  • I use a Plano Guide tacklebox.

A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide

This small book will help you catch fish if you are unfamiliar with angling in the Northwoods. Tips on the fish and where to catch them, what to put in your tacklebox and how to fish what you put there. This is a short, well written book by Furtman that will, if you need it, give a good outline on how to fish in the Boundary Waters. I certainly found it useful and interesting, I think you will too!

A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide by Michael Furtman

A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide by Michael Furtman

Finally an updated version of the fisherman's bible for the Boundary Waters! A BWCA book that should find its way onto your bookshelf.1 point

How to Fillet a Northern Pike

Easy as 1 2 3

Don't be intimidated by Northerns! They are delicious eating and are easy to fillet.
Proper way to fillet a Northern Pike, No Bones.
by Keegan4123 | video info

33 ratings | 20,235 views
curated content from YouTube

How to Fillet a Walleye

Walleye shore lunch or any meal is the best!
How to Fillet a Walleye
by compsol75 | video info

33 ratings | 72,046 views
curated content from YouTube

Give Me Shelter

No shortage of stones

Any put-in is good during a storm, but camping is limited to designated sites in the Park. You can easily identify them by: the fire grate, nearby pit latrine and the red spot on your map.

The earlier you can claim your camp the better. The pickin's will get mighty slim by early afternoon on popular lakes. Good sites will have a nice view and most importantly (to me) a breeze - camping on a point usually gets you both.

The days of cutting boughs and making a sweet bed of fragrant cedar have passed us by. I sleep on a Thermarest pad. If you use an outfitter you will get a pad and a nice tent to sleep in. I'm provided a Eureka Timberline Outfitter tent. I know others who have used: a bivy sack, tarp and sleeping bag, a hammock.

Once landed at a campsite make sure it is large enough to suit your needs. Tent pads are simply nice places to set up your tent. On most campsites during the summer it wont be too difficult to discern where tents go and how many will fit.

Click here to hear loons, frogs and birds in a Northwoods serenade. The only thing missing are the wolves, which if you are lucky you may get to hear.

Tarp time Hudson LakeA good tarp is an important item in your pack. This will give you a place besides your tent to sit and stay out of the elements. Your Outfitter should supply you with at least two. Ask to make sure and verify they are in the pack before leaving. Know some knots to tie this down before you get rained on or have sunstroke.

If you have a backpacking hammock be sure to bring it! You'll enjoy hanging around lakeside watching the world slip on by. Some campers forgo the tent and sleep in a hammock. The Hennessy brand is the most used and talked about in the forums.

The only way to ensure solitude out here is to camp on a lake with one campsite. Many dead end and smaller lakes offer just that. Difficult portages also help winnow the people out. If your travels lead you to such a place, don't be too disappointed if someone fishes your lake or simply passes by looking for the same solitude.

Man I'm Thirsty, Where's the Water?

You've been spitting over the side into our water supply buddy

Now, I have drunk directly from many lakes. I'm acquainted with folks who have done the same their entire lives and never been sick. Some caveats to employ: never on the EP lake, no beaver present, from the center of the lake, no turbulence and taken at elbow or greater depth. Will you get sick? Maybe - there's always that chance...that's why I filter the water 99% of the time.

Shell Lake swimmers

I use a Katadyn Guide Pro water filter. It's easy to use and semi-field maintainable. If you are stranded, filterless, you can always boil your water. If you don't own a water filter don't fret, your Outfitter will lend you one - but you will need to purchase a filter. If it's like mine it could set you back $35. Sadly it could still filter another 200+ gallons of water by trips end. That's why after a couple of years I bought my own.

Once camp is made someone is sent to the middle of the lake to pump. We go towards the center expecting there to be fewer large particulates. If the water is really muddy or gritty, say from a river, a disposable white coffee filter secured across the water intake will extend the filter life. If you hate pumping water check out a Katadyn gravity filter.

Water runFor our personal water we each carry a nalgene bottle. Fill these up before you leave. We also bring a collapsible water bladder for camp. I will tell you not to fill this up beforehand. It might sound like a great idea not to have to pump water, but I think that's easier than humping all that water around. In the summer of '08 when temperatures were in the mid nineties, I ignored my own advice. Don't take the chance of getting dehydrated! I did and it took me 3/4 of a day to recover. Our group of six finished all our personal waters' and a two gallon bladder after one short and one long portage. The rest of the trip I had to take extra care to stay well hydrated. Let circumstances and personal comfort levels dictate your choices.

If you are still squeamish, purification tablets or UV lights are available to kill everything in the water. Most likely your water will have a tint, not to worry. These are merely the tannins from leaves and trees. Just like tea. Filter enough water to get you through breakfast the next day. Don't forget the coffee! Every cup I brew up here tastes better than anything I'll ever buy from a coffee shop.

Please take note that in the BWCA glass and metal containers are prohibited. The only exception is the metal cannister holding the fuel for your stove.

Boundary Waters Blues - Broken Leg Ed.

A broken leg barely slows down this hardcore canoe camper

Boundary Waters Blues
by TheHikingStick | video info

4 ratings | 1,261 views
curated content from YouTube

My Boundary Waters Water Filter

What I own and use in the BWCA

About to pump waterWhen you return from your trip, don't forget to clean the filter using a little bleach and water. I usually use a bit more water and bleach then the instructions call for: 1 quart of water and 3 tablespoons of bleach. To speed drying I leave the casing open in a place where contamination is unlikely. When it's dry, close it up and pack it away.

When you go to use it again sure to pump some water through it first before using - at least a pint (again I go for a quart).

I use an older, out of production model so I've listed the replacement filter that Katadyn now makes.

A gravity filter works like this: Fill up a receptacle at the top, the filter is likely at the base, down a tube and into your container. It is hung from a tree or post.
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The Boundary Waters Food Pack

Bring what you've got the brawn to eat

Protect the bacon!You are the mighty beast of burden for your crew, the food pack securely strapped to your back so nary a bear or pine marten, however fierce or tenacious could under any circumstances separate you from ...

... the bacon!

Tucked beneath your aluminum hat the portage beckons. You stare down a narrow dirt and boulder strewn path, the walls are made of bark dimming away to an emerald twilight. A happy smile graces your mug as you step off. Somewhere through your 300 rod trek the snapping of branches off in the woods gets your heart racing. It seems that just off the portage whole trees are being cracked in half and thrown to the forest floor. Your knees begin pistoning. Up. Down. Up. They quickly morph into drunken boxers who throw bony jabs at your chin as you pound down the portage. Slightly horrified you realize they're getting harder to dodge.

snapping branchesSquinting through sweat stung orbs you peel off glances for hungry eyes floating off the portage. Someone lied to you about the total lack of logging and industry. Clearly just out of sight a steam locomotive has fired up and is loudly under the stress of a heavy load. Hey, they probably take canoes! Directly to the rear your paddling partner is pummeling the blue bear barrel with abandon. She has excellent timing.

As you stumble down the portage into a boggy area, the mosquitoes take to drilling at the only spot dry enough for them to hang on - the tongue drooping from your mouth. Meanwhile a never-ending supply of flies arrive for an impromptu jamboree with your molars. Spitting and hacking, you decorate your voyageur beard with the detritus of party-goers who overstayed. The ticks? Their party is a bit further south. Under your waistband.

In the yoke you swing your canoe in amazing gymnastic arcs worthy of a Cirque du Soleil performer. Despite their best efforts to scatter you indiscriminately bequeath hapless trees and rocks with aluminum slivers. Still more vegetation not fast enough is left smashed and bewildered in your wake. Above, the whiskeyjacks look on in amusement as you navigate near vertical drops. Who knew canoes had parachute qualities? You burst from the woods a grotesque silver-plated crab scuttling for the safety of water.

Big Northern splashIn the cool depths lie Northern Pike. An untrained eye would mistake them for suspended logs. I believe they consider taking down small campers foolish enough to try treading their waters. Why the mere flick of a tail from such beasts sends two foot waves crashing to shore.

Just exaggerating of course, you don't have to worry about pine martens. But those Pike..

Camp Kitchen

If you don't cook you get to wash!

An Outfitter will send you a menu many weeks, if not months ahead of departure to choose your meals. Feel free to double up or scratch out whatever you want a few times. The great unwashed outfitted masses get the usually tasty commercial stuff. 'Ware the plain eggs though. If you dehydrate your own food this is a great way to go. Total control of the menu. Most likely you will get a white gas stove to heat your water up on. If you've never used one before try lighting it several times at the Outfitters. My only hint is make certain you cover the hole on the pump rod - no matter how hard it is to push in.

Well, you hauled all that stuff in and now it's time to chow. Get the water boiling! Many Outfitters will send a frozen steak or chicken dinner with their paddlers for the first dinner. In late May one year our steaks didn't thaw out till the 3rd day! The Outfitter will have thoughtfully filled your food pack in a most logical manner - the order you will eat it. On my trips this lasts about two days when someone didn't get enough of something and raids tomorrow's supplies. Usually for cookies.

C'mon Chef, finishI like to prepare and cook everything at once. Read the packages to see how much water you will have to boil in total. Cover the pan with a plate to hasten boiling and save fuel. Have your garbage bag ready to accept the castoffs. Learn enough o-chem and you'll never burn plastic again. Pack it out. Cook the food per instructions and enjoy your meal! Don't forget to pick up your aluminum foil, including the hot chocolate packets you threw in the fire.

Go on up into the woods about a hundred yards or so with all your dishes, a towel, mesh bag and water. Stay as far from the waters edge as you can. Wash them. I use unfiltered water to rinse, but I've heard some folks like to dip the clean dishes in boiling water. I don't do that last step myself, you'll have to decide. Place the clean dishes in the mesh bag to hang and air dry in camp. Leave leftovers (including fish guts..see above), plus the wash water in a shallow trench on the forest floor. Don't leave any kind of SOS pad/scrubber there. Cover the area with floor litter to minimize your impact on the area. Anything you leave will be gone in short order. Don't throw food in the pit latrine ever!

Ask to be shown how to hang your food pack to keep it safe from the very infrequent bear. Leave your pack hung when not in use. You'll probably see the blue bear barrel. Odorproof = no hanging. Your Outfitter will supply a means to hang your pack along with all the necessary items to cook and serve your meals.

Ensign Lake bear barrel - thanks Ohio Guy!Hang your garbage in or with your food pack. I also re-hang the foodpack or seal the bear barrel when cooking. I don't ever want to be caught with the larder wide open, ready to be devoured by a woodland omnivore. By the way, those blue barrels are not bearproof, so don't clean fish on them. Or leave bacon on the lid.

I believe if anything attacks the food pack it will be some sort of rodent. But all it takes is one bear. On that note, don't bring or eat food in your tent.

The Boundary Waters on YouTube!

Reminding you of the best place to be in the world.



Any day in the BWCA is better than any day at work (except maybe retirement.)

Moose in BWCA

Moose in BWCA 2 points

Boundary Waters Portage

Boundary Waters Port... 1 point

Boundary Waters Canoe Area at a glimse

Boundary Waters Cano... 1 point

The Rut: BWCA Moose 2006

The Rut: BWCA Moose... 0 points

Tim and Mikey crash

Tim and Mikey crash 0 points

BWCA Bugs - Triangle Flies and Other Critters

Keep yer mouth shut so nothing flies in!

I use Deep Woods Off (40% DEET) in the BWCA. I've also tried 3M's Ultrathon lotion. It worked as well as the DW and I didn't apply it as often. The DW Off and Ultrathon keeps the critters at bay except the flies. The black ones generally don't bite, they merely buzz in a mad race to see who can fly around you the fastest. The littler triangle flies are well adapted to the removal of flesh from humans. The horse flies merely bite out a chunk of you and fly off with it.

I've also pre-treated my clothes with spray on permethrin. I've found this particularly effective against ticks acquired during portages. I didn't have a single tick latch onto me this past trip. A downside for me is that permethrin is highly toxic to fish (and cats). I was careful not to rinse treated clothing in the lakes and special care was taken at home so as not to expose the family pets. We look for ticks daily as I hate these hitchhikers. Be sure to check any cuffs that your clothing may have, like on convertible pants.

The Boundary Waters BugA few paddlers on the B-boards claim they found the cure to flies. I won't take the joy of paddling through the Boards away from you. One year, my crew made a game of smacking down and throwing the carcasses at each other. One hint - the big black ones often fly to the highest point of a person. The triangle flies (deer flies) just bite you. When the Army Worms are infesting the flies are worse, the severity depending on the infestation. Another good thing to ask your Outfitter about.

From early June into July seems to be the worst, but it can vary depending on that year's weather. The skeeters and flies may appear sooner or hang around later if conditions are right. The only time I've been nearly bug free is in late May, just after the fishing opener. I bet it's near the same come September, but have never been.

You will usually find refuge from the bugs on the water. The farther you are from the shore the less bugged you will be. If the flies are really bad don't ever expect to be left alone until you climb into your tent. Then kill everything that flew in with you.

I've never experienced the bugs so bad it drove me onto the water - I think it's safe to assume I just haven't been there at the right time.

Clothes for the Boundary Waters

Summer camping in the BWCA

In my opinion weather comes in three varieties in the Boundary Waters: 1) just beautiful; 2) cold and raining; or 3) hot and sweaty. All of the above or any variation can occur in the same day. During the summer be prepared for up to a 30+ degree differential. Before mid-June and after late August it can get pretty chilly in these Northern locales, so bring warmer gear.

Horse Lake campsiteRaingear is a requirement. It can be as simple as a poncho provided by your Outfitter to a pricier Gore-tex suit you bring. You will need something so make sure it's handy in a pack - on top! Raingear will likely be good wind protection too. Nights, even in summer, can slip into the low 40's and dip lower. At the very least you want to be able to layer up. In late May I have worn every stitch of clothing I brought. The very next day I was in shorts. It's like that.

Generally I'll wear the same clothes for a couple of days before rinsing them out. In my pack you'll find two: t-shirts (wicking if you got 'em), biking (compression) shorts and hats; one each: a thermal/waffle shirt, nylon shorts, conversion pants and a fleece jacket (which doubles as my pillow with the waffle shirt - put them in the sleeping bag stuff sack). Three pairs of Merino wool socks and don't forget a small towel (HGTTG). Water and camp shoes complete my summer ensemble. No matter how long my trip is these are all the clothes I bring.

For water shoes I wear Rocky hydro-ports which double as my portage shoes. They are basically gym shoes with built in drainage. Other brands I've seen canoeists wearing are Chota and Teva. I suspect the most used water shoe of all is the old gym shoe. Everyone seems to have a pair and they generally aren't missed when tossed at trips end. Flip-flops and sandals can be great for camp but you'll be sorely tempting the fates if you wear them on portages. Don't risk a sprained ankle in the Wilderness no matter how much you'd like to defy the Fates.

Near sunset on OysterFabrics that are quick drying and maintain their warmth while wet are well suited for the Boundary Waters. Clothes are heavy and can take up quite a bit of space so pack with the intent of bringing just what you'll need. If something is dirty enough, a good rinse in the lake should cure any problems. Fashion is not an issue but some people can still manage to make a statement.

Learn about hypothermia and avoid this adventure ruiner.

What To Bring To The Boundary Waters

Even more stuff besides what the Outfitter gives!

Our Outfitter rents to us everything we need. This is extra stuff we bring. You can take as much stuff as you can fit into the canoe. The only hitch is that you have to haul it every time you portage! There are a ton of things you could bring, but it's up to you to decide how much to schlepp around. You'll find similar lists on most of the message boards.

Mudro Lake by (the former) Chainsaw Sisters

  • Sunscreen - Badger SPF 30+ is my pick.
  • Trail Mix.
  • First aid kit - a good one.
  • Antacid/pepto/laxative
  • Aluminum foil to bake fish in.
  • Several feet of duct tape wrapped around a lighter.
  • Multi-tool. You'll find the Leatherman Wave at my hip.
  • Bungee cords.
  • Soft or flat style tackle box.
  • Compass/GPS
  • Chapstick/lip balm
  • Emergency blankets.
  • Camp chairs for everyone who wants one.
  • Polarized sunglasses.
  • A spare paddle.
  • Binoculars
  • Headlamp/flashlight for each person. We each have a Petzl MYO 3 and bring a pen size MagLite.
  • Unscented baby wipes. Marvelous for cleaning up when you can't go for a swim.
  • A mesh bag to hang dishes in to dry.

Boundary Waters Chores

What? You think the dishes wash themselves?

Even in the Wilderness there are still chores that must be done to keep order and sanity in camp. Before you go, divide up the chores in an equal manner or as the group agrees. Make everyone aware that the whole group counts on each individual doing their chores. The point being is to help ensure harmony amongst the group. Remember where you are if someone can't suck it up and you pull their duty. Even doing another person's chore is better in the Boundary Waters.

Dishes. Square this away with everybody before you even agree to take a trip together. Everyone washes dishes.

Expect to do dishes daily!

Since you have dishes someone needs to be cookie. I've gone on trips where this duty was split amongst the group and where one person cooked every meal the whole trip. We usually volunteer to be cookie all day instead of looking for a new one each meal. A great general rule we adhere to is that cookie doesn't have to wash dishes.

Firewood will need to be gathered at every campsite. If you find nicely stacked campfire wood when you arrive please consider leaving a similar token of goodwill for the next canoeists. If the lake we're staying on is dotted with small islands, I'll usually check them out for firewood. I don't know why, but we've always had great luck scavenging firewood on them.

Sweepers for camp and portages. We use two people who are responsible for making sure nothing is left behind. They also pull duty for going back to retrieve something that was left.

Sacred Keeper of the toilet paper. If you use an Outfitter all of your tp will likely be gathered in one spot. Make sure that it is wrapped in a garbage bag and carefully tied off. Strongly consider dividing the rolled gold evenly amongst all canoes in your party.

Water Duty. One person per day volunteers to pump all the water necessary to fill the group water bladder.

The Duluth Pack

And other bags.

The Duluth pack at its simplest is merely a canvas bag with straps. With origins reaching back to the fur traders, this is a pack truly meant to hold a whole lotta stuff. Here is a pack that definitely lends itself to canoe camping. Your Outfitter will provide you with as many as needed to pack gear.

Duluth Pack front and backAs you can see in the photo you can wear a bag front and back when portaging. An incredible timesaver - try that with a North Face backpack. Fill these bad boys in vertical rows with loose stuff on top. This way the pack adjusts to your back much easier.

Some folks insist on the extra weight of a dry sack. This is fine if you absolutely require something remains dry, like a camera. I usually use plain white garbage bags. While this is not "waterproofing," I've yet to have something wrapped this way come out of the pack soaked. Maybe a little damp, but never wet. It might also be worthy to note I've never swamped a loaded canoe. Knock on wood!

We also place each individual sleeping bag in a kitchen garbage bag. The sleeping bags are compressible and mummy style rated to at least thirty-two degrees for the summer. If you are camping in the spring or fall I would suggest you bring a bag rated at least to zero. Draft tubes are a nice product feature to help avoid the cold. If you don't like mummy style bags, ask your Outfitter if they have a square style bag available.

I would only recommend synthetic bags, which is what your Outfitter will likely provide. While down is certainly warm and light, once it becomes wet it's a problem. Synthetics usually dry faster and may still keep you warm even if wet. You'll have to choose what you think is best.

If you are partial outfitting or doing it all yourself and can single portage, then by all means use your favorite backpack. Some packs might be a hassle with the yoke. Check that out before you're wandering down the first portage. It's a headache you can easily avoid.

Hiking in the Boundary Waters

There is a way if you're not on the water

There are a few trails that you can hike in the BWCA. The first one that comes to mind is also the best maintained, the Kekekabic Trail. It stretches from the Gunflint Trail near Grand Marais on the East side to the Snowbank Lake trailhead, or Fernburg near Ely on the West end. The Border Route Trail is another longer trail but is not entirely contained in the BWCA.Moon over Hustler Lake

Besides numerous smaller trails in the Park, other attractions include: Pow Wow Trail, Angleworm Lake, Magnetic Rock, Sioux/Hustler, Herriman Trail and Eagle Mountain. The Kekekabic Trail Club has a listing of all the trails in the BWCA and SNF here.

When traveling by canoe we always take several hikes from our campsite. There are many relics from the different industries that once occupied the area. Mostly you will find old, abandoned equipment used in logging. Occasionally you will come across decrepit cabins or their foundations. If near an old lodge, expect a garbage heap. Pop-tops and church-ring cans along with old tins of, what else, Dinty Moore stew. Each is its own little archaeological dig showing a window to the past.

Boundary Waters Journal

A superb quarterly magazine

An excellent magazine about the Boundary Waters mostly written by folks who go there. If you haunt the b-boards you will find authors who have contributed.

Boundary Waters Journal

Boundary Waters Journal

If you love the BWCA and aren't a subscriber, consider becoming one. Full of facts, stories and info about the BWCA.2 points

Ely Weather Feed

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Grand Marais Weather Feed

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Gunflint Trail Outfitters

Grand Marais Area

Adventure Travel Vacations
Boundary Country Trekking adventure travel vacations (Gunflint Trail Minnesota) offers guided canoeing trips (great for family vacations), mountain biking, hiking, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, guided dog sledding trips, lodging.
Clearwater Canoe Outfitters and Lodge
Canoe adventure paddling trips to the Quetico Park, the BWCAW, and Canada. Our Lodge is off the Gunflint Trail at the edge of the BWCAW, just 32 miles from of Grand Marais in northeastern Minnesota.
Golden Eagle Lodge
Grand Marais Outfitter.
Gunflint Northwoods Outfitters
Gunflint Northwoods Outfitters - A canoe trip outfitter for the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness & Quetico for families, Boy Scouts, church groups, fishermen & school groups. Using all canoe routes along the Gunlfint Trail. 75 years of operation.
Old Northwoods Lodge
Old Northwoods Lodge is a resort on the Gunflint Trail in Northeastern Minnesota which provides comfortable cabins and guest rooms on Poplar Lake.
Rockwood Lodge and Canoe Outfitters
A resort on the Gunflint Trail in northeastern Minnesota offering lakeside cabins and Boundary Waters canoe outfitting, fresh water fishing, fishing guides, fishing tours.
Sawbill Canoe Outfitters
In Tofte, Mn.
Seagull Canoe Outfitters
Seagull Canoe Outfitters - Wilderness canoe camping, adventure travel fishing vacations and lakeside cabin lodging on the Gunflint Trail in Minnesota.
Superior-North Canoe Outfitters
Superior-North Canoe Outfitters.
Voyageur Canoe Outfitters
Voyageur Canoe Outfitters offers outfitting, maps, fishing, & resort in the Boundary Waters, Minnesota and Quetico Park, Canada.

Boundary Waters History Links

A little knowledge doesn't always hurt

Sunset on Oyster Lake

Wilbers: Boundary Waters History
You get to choose between a Wilderness Management or Natural History viewpoint. Either way you'll find it very interesting. This is a must read if you are curious about the history of the Boundary Waters area. I like the way Stephen has put together his website and encourage you to visit!
The US Forest Service Website
More History from your US government.
Customs and Beliefs
Native American information of many kinds. Included here are some from tribes that once or still do live in the area.
Canoe Country
Canoe Country did a great job putting together this information.
BWCAWiki - History
This is a link to a BWCA Wiki. The highlite here at least is the history section. Check out the rest of the Wiki.
Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center
I have heard nothing but good things about WR. Definitely worth the visit, just to see the wolves (live right now above!). From their website: "Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center is an accredited residential environmental education school for persons of all ages. It offers immersion programs which involve direct observation and participation in outdoor experiences and focus on ecology and science, human culture and history, personal growth, group building and outdoor recreation."
BWCA Blowdown Pages
On July 4, 1999, storms caused serious damage to nearly 400,000 acres of forests in and around Minnesota's Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Links are provided to information related to the blowdown event, and to the increased possibility of wildfire that it brings to the region.
BWCA Blowdown Growth Patterns
Another short page covering the basics about the 1999 blowdown.
'Canoe King of Ely' Bill Rom
A local story of an early conservationist.

Boundary Waters Books

If your interest has been piqued and you'd like a great deal more information I recommend these books for your shelf. Daniel Pauly's gives a good history of the area and has practical information for canoeists. Mark Stensaas's books are great if you are interested in recognizing the specific plants, animals and flowers you might encounter.
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Personal BWCA Pages

Stories of Adventure

The Swanson Party
The best personal web site on the BWCA, this one has it all. Although some of the links are out, still an incredible source of info!
Craig Dietz's BWCA Website
DC3. All I can say is read the diaries. Explore everything else at your leisure after reading them. Thanks Craig!
Sigurd F. Olson Web Site
This site is dedicated to a celebrated and venerated writer who inked his insights of life and the Northwoods.

My Favorite BWCA Tent

Helping keep the rain and bugs at bay while sleeping

I really like the classic lines of this A-frame tent. This is the tent my Outfitter uses and the one inside which I've weathered many thunderstorms in the Boundary Waters. In a really bad thunderstorm (you hear trees snapping and falling!) get out of your tent and down to shore. If you can find a rock to crouch behind, be there. Scope the area out where you choose your campsite for possible defensive weather related positions.

View from out the front door

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by

Jimi

I am an avid camper and (almost) yearly tripper to the Wilderness. My favorite destination is of course the Boundary Waters. Because I love the Wilderness... more »

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