What is a Butcher Block Cutting Board?

Cutting boards haven't always been the highly polished and beautiful kitchen adornments that they are today.

The early cave man used any piece of wood he could find that he didn't need to burn. Large tree limbs that blew down, drift wood, stumps, anything.

His cutting tools, while sharp, were brittle and often cut deeply into the wood. This meant that the cave man got a lot of extra fiber in his meal just from the splinters. Since they didn't know any better, some died from using the limbs from trees that were poison to human life.

As civilization progressed and man moved out of the caves and into structures it became difficult to drag a big old limb into the cooking area. Since saws weren't invented yet, they would split a hunk of wood, trim it up to keep it from rocking on the table and now they had a "Cutting Board."

When the board got too dirty to use, which wasn't often by their hygienic standards, it just got tossed into the fire pit and burned up as fuel.

As technology advanced and saws became common the housewife would ask her husband to slice a chunk off of a stump. This gave the cook a flatter piece that was then able to pull double duty.

They still had the problem of coming up with a wood that wouldn't impart a pitchy flavor. Soft woods were the most common trees available and, as yet, not much was done with hard woods.

The next logical step in the Cutting Board evolution was to have many smaller cutting boards which could, and did, double as dishes. These were called a trencher.

Every country developed their own kind and style of cutting board. From the thick Bamboo chopping blocks of the far east to the sturdy Maple butcher blocks of Europe. The nomadic tribes in and around Persia used small flat pieces of highly polished wood. These were easy to carry and were often decorated with tribal or band designs.

As knowledge progressed, the simple cutting board began to take on many different forms and functions. Ranging from the butchering block of the farmer down to the tapered paddle used by the baker. As well as the progress in types and style there was an awakening as to the type of wood that should be used for each application.

Large open grained wood such as Oak gave way to tighter grained and less porous woods such as Maple, Cherry, and Walnut. Bamboo remained a staple product and other exotic woods joined in just because of being a local product.

The Cutting Board has evolved tremendously, and as you can see in this lens, has gone forward from something that is just practical to something that is both practical and beautiful.

There are as many different types of wooden cutting boards as there are people that use them. They range from the thin household Pizza paddle all the way up to the large, heavy block found in your butchers shop. There are counter top models, special elongated boards for cutting and serving bread, small boards for cutting cheeses, and slightly larger ones for cutting and serving vegetables and dip. And of course let us not forget those who have an entire counter that is just a huge chopping block.

That's not what we want to talk about here. In the realm of wooden boards there are only really three kinds of, or quality levels of, cutting boards:

1) Face Grain,

2) Edge Grain, and

3) End Grain.

Face grain boards are the cheapest and fastest to make. They are made by just cutting out the desired shape from a single piece of wood. The pizza paddle is an example of that kind of board. Because it is the face of the wood that is exposed, this surface is the softest and is subject to easy damage. Nicks, splinters, gouges, chips, etc. are all too evident on a face grain board. If you do not plan on doing any cutting on the board and to only use it for serving, such as a Hors' devour tray, then this style will work well for you.

The other two types are a little more complicated. The edge grain boards are made when the pieces are cut and the "face" sides are rotated 90 degrees so that the edges of the boards now form the cutting surface. While this is the most common type of board out there it exists because it is easy and cheap to manufacture. It does provide a decent board for the price and is superior to all of the non-wood boards available. However, (you knew there was one of those coming didn't you), it is still subject scaring and marring and other such blights.

The best quality and the most expensive to make is the end grain board. This is the best to be found and will meet the needs of the most discerning customer. More durable than regular cutting boards, these end-grain boards look beautiful on your counter top. An end-grain is a much harder surface and has a greater tolerance for the chopping motion. These boards give a truly resistant cutting surface while being kind to the blade's sharp edge.

The old fashioned cutting boards were always end-grain design (the chopping block) for a reason, it keeps the knives much sharper. Instead of crushing against the wood fibers the blade goes between them much like cutting into a firm brush. You will find that your blade edges last much longer, and you'll see no knife marks on the board.

When the individual blocks of wood are arranged so that the grain of the wood runs vertically (up and down), this puts one end of each board up so that the cutting surface is actually the end of many individual pieces of hardwood. With the grain aligned in this manner (up and down), when the knife strikes the surface during cutting, the grain of the wood actually separates and then closes when the knife is removed. This accounts for the self-healing aspect of the end-grain surface. The wood itself is not cut, but instead you are cutting between the fibers.

First and foremost you must use or select a hardwood. Not just any hardwood either. For instance, while Oak is classified as a hardwood the grains and pores are so open that they invite bacteria to come on in and grow. White, red, and yellow Oak is hard to clean. Fish Tail Oak (this wood is not an Oak at all, see the Fish Tail Oak lens listed on this lens), on the other hand, is a very good wood to use for cutting boards.

I have listed below the woods that I use to make my boards. There are many more that you can use, but I limit myself to this narrow band.

There are only 10 different kinds of wood that I use to make my cutting boards. They are all hardwoods which means that they have tight closed pores that absorb Mineral Oil but seal out bacteria. Because the grain structure is so dense when using the wood for end grain cutting boards minor knife cuts are prevented as the grain closes in around the intrusion.

The woods that I use are:

Bamboo - A traditional hardwood, (really a grass), used in cutting boards. Adds an Oriental texture to the boards. ($35.49/ 3' X 6' sheet)

Cherry - A north-eastern US and Canada wood with a fine texture. Becomes darker and richer with age, ($7.49/bd ft)

Hard Maple - This wood come from North Eastern US and Canada. Know for its durability and strength. Mainstay of most cutting board manufacturers. White to honey in color. ($3.50/bd ft)

Hickory - A very strong wood with a tight grain. Found all over the US. Trees live to be 350 years old. Grain patterns are very bold and add character to any item made with it. ($2.61/bd ft)

Jatoba - A crop wood from central and tropical South America. It is also known as Brazilian Cherry. Very distinct tight grain which adds a unique texture to end grain work. ($4.94/bd ft)

Katalox - An extremely hard dense wood ranging from Purple to Brown to White in the same board. This very attractive coloring patterns creates character to my cutting boards. Found in Central and Southern America. ($10.96/bd ft)

Monterillo - Also known as Brazilian Rose Wood. Comes from Central America, Panama, Ecuador, and Venezuela. This is a crop wood with very distinct black stripes in a dark rich brown wood. ($9.99/bd ft)

Purple Heart - A very hard wood from Mexico and Tropical South America. It is, as it's name suggests, purple in color and brings a special colorization to any board. ($4.95/bd ft)

Fish Tail Oak - The only one of the "oak" named woods whose grain is tight enough to be used in cutting boards. This wood is truly not an Oak. Brings a distinct "fish tail" pattern when used as a side trim board. ($7.46/bd ft)

Walnut - A dark Chocolate wood mellowing to a light brown within the same board. Medium hard but very well suited for end grain cutting boards. Comes from Eastern US and Canada. ($3.69/bd ft)

A properly cared for cutting board made with the silky richness of fine hardwoods is a thing of beauty. Even this humble kitchen tool can be a minor work of art, bringing joy to the household or professional chef as they go about their tasks. It can also make a statement at a wine & cheese party or even a formal dinner event. However, like anything worthwhile, it will require proper treatment and periodic maintenance.

1) Choose your knife carefully.

Any well crafted smooth edged knife or small cleaver will allow you to prepare food without damaging your board. Serrated edge knives, especially those "Ginsu" style knives, will make deep gouges and tears in your pretty cutting board. This will require you to frequently sand and refinish the surface to maintain the original beauty of you heritage board.

2) Keep the board cleaned. Give it a shower or a wipe instead of a bath.

A cutting board needs to be cleaned after every use. Simply sponge off the board with warm soapy water to remove debris, rinse in warm water, and set aside to dry. Soaking the board in a sink, or worse - running it through a dishwasher, will cause the wood to swell and draws out and washes away all of the oil preservative. Then when it dries out, it will crack and split.

3) Prevent "cross" contamination.

If used for cutting meats, especially poultry, you should clean it after each use with a kitchen disinfectant such as a solution of 1 TBS of common household bleach in a gallon of water. Always clean the board after using it for raw meat before using it to prepare other items or to use it for cooked meats. If you are using the board to prepare vegetables or bread then cleaning after use with a mild soap solution and warm water is sufficient. Tests run by several labs have shown that the natural elements in wooden cutting boards actually combat bacteria, and are less likely to cause food contamination than plastic or polycarbonate boards.

4) Consider investing in two, three, or more boards.

Use one just for meat products, one for vegetable items, and one for bread products. Use the boards not only to prepare these products, but use them to serve the products. While having one good cutting board will normally be sufficient, having several boards allows you have many cutting activities and surfaces occurring at once. This is especially helpful when teaching children to cook or having a "help-me-make-it" dinner party. Purchase separate smaller cutting boards, known as Cheese Boards, for serving cheese and crackers at parties.

5) Use a trivet for hot pans. Use your cutting board for chopping and serving.

Your cutting board is designed for cutting and serving food. Placing a hot pan on the surface draws out the oil, raises the grain, and creates a weak spot that will allow the board to warp. If the board is wet, it can produce steam that will weaken the glue joints and possibly lead to a break-down in the integrity of the entire board. For hot pans use a wood, metal, or ceramic Trivet.

6) Keep your board oiled to preserve the wood and show off the pattern with a shiny finish.

Cutting boards use a simple oil finish to protect and beautify the wood. Occasionally, the board will begin to dry out and require re-oiling. For this you will need Mineral Oil. Apply a liberal coat of the mineral oil to one side and the edges. Allow the wood to drink up as much of the oil as it will, add more if spots dry out, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Then wipe off the excess and treat the other side. There is no "curing" needed, so the board is ready to use right away. The oil will bring back the deep luster of the wood as well as protect it from water damage. If you use any type of vegetable oil instead, while these products do penetrate the board and do help to waterproof it they will go rancid over time and could cause food poisoning. Use only mineral oil, which is available from most hardware, grocery, and drug stores.

7) Repair surface damage at least yearly to maintain a smooth cutting surface.

First clean the board following the directions above, then allow to dry thoroughly. To remove the rough spots and knife "divots", sand with at least a 150 grit sandpaper until all of the surface blemishes are removed. Then sand with 220 grit sand paper to remove the sanding marks and return the surface to it's former smooth surface. After the surface has been sanded, wipe well with a clean rag to remove all sawdust and apply a new coat of oil as outlined in instruction #6.

8) Store your "heirloom-to-be" horizontally.

This way it will always be handy and adds beauty to your counter top. Storing it in this manner helps to prevent warping and curling and keeps the board flat.

9) Use your board for more than just chopping.

Like any fine item your cutting board is intended for use. It makes an attractive serving tray for hors D'oeuvre and other holiday treats, a serving platter for dinner parties, or even a lap tray for the late night TV snack. The important thing is that it gets used. Using your board means that it will get cleaned more often which will remove the daily accumulation of dust and kitchen grease and preserve the fine finish.