The Complete Cabinet Making Guide

If you want to learn how to build cabinetry, you should already know about Woodworking Tools. Purchase the finest tools you can afford, low cost tools generally break down faster leaving you with a replacement cost. Use this list to make sure you have the basic tools necessary to build cabinetry.

Tape Measure
Square
Hammer
Clamps
Miter Saw
Jigsaw
Router
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Drill
Nail Gun
Sander

Draw your cabinet on a sheet of paper and write the dimensions on the sides they relate to. Then start a box parts cut list using these formulas. My cabinets feature ¾" plywood box construction with ¼" plywood backs.

Finished End Side Panel ¾" plywood
Height -subtract the toe kick height and the thickness of the top from finished height.
Depth -subtract the face-frame and back from finished depth.

Wall End Side Panels ¾" plywood
Height -subtract the thickness of the top from finished height.
Depth -subtract the face-frame and back from finished depth.

Bottom Shelf ¾" plywood
Length -subtract the thickness of your two sides from finished width.
Depth -subtract face frame and back from finished depth.

Shelves ¾" plywood
Same as bottom shelf unless you have partitions separating the inside cavity.

Nailing Cleat ¾" plywood
Length -same as bottom shelf
Depth- 3" (you want 3 cleats total, two across back top, and one across front)

Toe Kick ¾" plywood
Length is the same as finished cabinet width if the cabinet meets a wall at both ends. For finished ends subtract 3 ¼" from finished width for each occurrence, which allows a toe kick on the finished end.
Height 4.5" standard (this can be as small as 3")

Back ¼" plywood
Width -same as finished width
Height -subtract the toe kick height and the thickness of the top from finished height.

Tops ¾" plywood
Depth -same as finished cabinet depth
Width -same as finished cabinet width unless it meets a wall
With a plywood top you will nail it on and cut a ¾" x 1 ½" hardwood band to go around the working sides of the top.

Tops ¾" 1 1/8" granite or synthetic material
Depth -1" bigger than finished depth of cabinet
Width -Same as finished cabinet width add 1" each time top ends at finished end
This allows a 1" overhang around the working edges of your cabinet

The face frame consists of stiles (vertical) and rails (horizontal), which are joined together using pocket joinery. Start your face frame parts cut out list using these formulas. My cabinet's feature solid wood face frames.

Face Frame ¾"x 2" solid wood
Side Stiles -subtract the toe kick height and the thickness of the top from finished height.
Top and Bottom Rail -subtract 4" from finished width. Base cabinets get a 3/4" bottom rail and a 2" top rail, while upper cabinets get a 2" bottom rail and a 4" top rail.

Inside Stiles and Rails -vary depending on doors, drawers, knee spaces etc. Draw the openings you want in your cabinet separating them with 2" stiles and rails.

Kreg Jig® K4 Pocket Hole System
Priced roughly $40 less than the previous K3 model, this full-service pocket-hole drilling system is packed with value. It includes all the core equipment and everything you need to drill fast and eas..

Kreg Jig® K4 Pocket Hole System

Doors & Drawer Fronts ¾" hardwood
1/2" overlay doors and drawers measure 1" bigger than the opening height and width
You can order raised panel doors from your local cabinet shop, just make sure your measurements are correct.

Doors & Drawer Fronts ¾" plywood
3/8" overlay lip mold doors and drawer fronts are ¼" smaller than the opening with a hardwood lip mold nailed onto the outside edges, giving it a picture frame look.

My Door & Drawer List
Qty Height Width
4 -24" x 12"
2 -6" x 25"
1- 4" x 25"

Two Sides ½" plywood
Height -subtract 1" from the height of the opening
Length -subtract 2" from the depth of finished cabinet

Front & Back ½" plywood
Height -subtract 1 ½" from the height of the opening
Length -subtract 2" from the width of opening

Bottom ½" plywood
Width -subtract 2" from the width of the opening
Length - subtract 2" from the depth of finished cabinet

You will end up with 5 pieces for each drawer.

Knotty Alder A red hardwood with a fine straight grain that is sometimes referred to as rustic alder. Mostly stained very dark.

Select Alder A red hardwood with a fine straight grain. Mostly stained very dark.

Ash A white hardwood with a prominent coarse grain. Best results are clear finish or a touch of brown.

Beech A pale brown to deep reddish-brown hardwood with tight grain. Often a substitute for cherry or oak.

Birch A light yellow to reddish-brown hardwood with a grain similar to oak. Stains can vary from clear to dark brown.

Cherry A light to dark reddish-brown hardwood with a fine grain. Mostly stained very dark.

Gum A deep reddish-brown to nearly white hardwood with a fine grain. Frequently finished in imitation of other woods.

Hickory A dark brown to white hardwood with a tight prominent grain. Staining can be difficult is the color variations are to be blended.

Maple A white to light tan hardwood with a straight-grain, sometimes curly, wavy, or bird's eye grain occurs. Staining can range from clear to very dark.

Oak A rich golden color to light reddish-brown hardwood with a pronounced open grain. Stain can range from clear to dark.

Poplar A yellowish-brown hardwood often tinged with green, grain is fine and straight. This is a paint grade material.

Walnut A light to dark chocolate brown hardwood with a moderately prominent straight grain. Stain can range from clear to dark.

Pine A white to pale yellow softwood with a fine straight grain. Stain can range from clear to dark.

Knotty Pine A white to pale yellow softwood with a fine straight grain. Stain can range from clear to dark.

Redwood A red softwood with straight fine grain. Mostly clear finish. Used for outdoor cabinet applications.